The Sheep Chronicles. A Sheep dips his hooves in various bucolic backwaters.

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Jordan

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
I know I said "anything" re couplers, but for British 1960s stock I wouldn't go for Kadee as my first choice, in fact. I used them on some British HO I did years ago, using the smaller 'scale size' knuckles, but although better than T/Ls they look equally wrong.
I was thinking more along the lines of etched couplers like Dinghams ('Flippems'??), B&B, or suchlike which are rather more discreet, if proper scale couplers are not wanted because of the "hand of god" effect, or just because in 4mm they're so fiddly to use - one reason I went from HO to O for my UK outline interests!!
 
NHY 581

NHY 581

Western Thunderer
I've no issue with three links but you've hit the nail on the head regarding ease of use. Hand of God is not an issue. However, eyes of sheep are. I would really struggle. I can easily struggle with T/L. I also have issues with my hooves which are less than dextrous at times( bloody clumsy). In addition, all my layouts have rooves. I can't 'reach over'. I have to reach in. The slot in the layout box, through choice is about 20cms, which is fine and adequate. Therefore, hands free seems best. But..............

Aside from getting them to work as they should, I struggle with the appearance of kadees. Side on, some wagons look almost n gauge...........I know they're bigger but........The kadees look as clumsy as T/L.

If weathered, the T/L lose some of their bulkand merge into the background. I'm not convinced by the alternatives such as dinghams etc. If I travel to an exhibition, I don't want to potentially have to tweak couplings damaged in transit on the day.

With T/Ls fitted, stock travels in their manufactuers boxes. Kadees are the same so it comes down to either T/L or kadees................

Both have appearance issues. One is more straightforward than the other


Pondering continues............


Rob.
 
Andy P

Andy P

Western Thunderer
Sheepbloke said:
Thanks Andy.

That would involve major excavation work on Ewe, not something I would want to do given it's current scenic state.

But, in future, that's worth knowing.

However, I'm thinking of seeing if I can retro fit smaller neowhatnot magnets which would hopefully require less tunnelling but as I say it's kind of far down the list.

Rob.
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Sorry, Yes I was thinking of the next Project, although I have fitted one of those under 6mm Ply, and it still just worked.

The others I have used are the 2mm round Neo's, having dug out some Ballast each side of the Rail to insert 4 per Rail side, re ballast and weather and they have been a success in the past.
1652858817527.png

Magnets.png

But as you say, some way down the Line in the list of priorities.
 
Bagnall built

Bagnall built

Active Member
personally i use both kadees and tension locks.
i have far too much stock to convert , but i tend to use mainline / bachmann small couplings on kits etc and to replace the old hornby triang ones ,and kadees on coaching stock .
the hornby ones get passed on to my dad , but i do find that with a little weathering they are ok and i find sprat and winkle look equally awful to tension locks .

just my behind the sofa 2p thoughts .
 
simond

simond

Western Thunderer
Alan said:
Rob, that's the advantage of O gauge. 3 link are much easier to use.
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Well, yes, except on corridor coaches and in fiddle yards.

I had the great pleasure of visiting the Liverpool Lime St model a few months back, they use Kadees to great effect, and I didn’t find them intrusive at all. It got me thinking of HO scale Kadees on a custom mount below the buffer beam on UK stock.

I do use 0 gauge Kadees within the rakes of my 7mm coaches.
 
Focalplane

Focalplane

Western Thunderer
I like MagClic within a permanent rake of coaches but two hands of god are really needed to pull two O gauge coaches apart! MagClic have polarity, though, so one coach cannot be reversed in a rake, not sure why that would be a problem though. I have regular scale link couplers on each end of the rake, under the brake section. Tenders give just enough space to couple and uncouple but for me it may take several go’s.
 
LarryG

LarryG

Western Thunderer
It's not often I say "I am thinking of doing such and such a thing", but something similar to tension-locks, but made from wire, will probably be adopted. I do know that Kadee's are definitely out because a train of wagons fitted wiht these pesky things hop about like spring lambs.
 
JimG

JimG

Western Thunderer
Bagnall built said:
.... and i find sprat and winkle look equally awful to tension locks .

just my behind the sofa 2p thoughts .
Click to expand...

A few of us in the SSMRS have used Spratt & Winkle type couplings but we made our own using brass wire which, when blackened, were damn near invisible. We also used them with hooks at one end and the bar at the other when the length of the hook and the position of the bar could be set to give a distance between the wagons similar to three link couplings. With the delayed uncoupling "finger" they were excellent to use. And with the downward moving hook, they could be easily uncoupled manually by using a soft bristle paint brush.

Jim.
 
K

Kane Clements

Member
Sheepbloke said:
Hi Jordan,

I did try kadees on the latest chapter but decided that it was too hit and miss ahead of an exhibition. I'm sort of at the stage where I want to try something else, other than T/Ls but for now it's a little down the list.

Kadees still appeal but I need a better success rate than my first dabble with them. When they worked, they were fine. I'm pretty certain the fault rests with me rather than the kit, hence why I probably will revisit them. In other words, I need to install them properly.....

Rob.
Click to expand...
Hi Rob

You might like to take a look at Bachmann DMU couplings. More discrete than TL. I've got a stock for use when I get permission from the gardening authorities to start my new layout. They do straight and cranked.

1652913399968.png
 
Bagnall built

Bagnall built

Active Member
simond said:
Do they self-couple, and how do you uncouple them?
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These are the standard European couplings they lift up same as dinghams? You have to like tension locks push up the two couplings sticky down bits . I found when I use them on my Ho stock to have the locos with just the hooks and not the loops makes it easier but yes they self couple .
 
NHY 581

NHY 581

Western Thunderer
Morning.

I have these supplied with a couple of Bachmann DMUs and also with my Czech locos/stock. They do stick out rather. More than the short Bachmann tension locks and to me there is no advantage over either these T/Ls or the Kadees, certainly in terms of appearance.

More thought needed.........
 
Bagnall built

Bagnall built

Active Member
Sheepbloke said:
Morning.

I have these supplied with a couple of Bachmann DMUs and also with my Czech locos/stock. They do stick out rather. More than the short Bachmann tension locks and to me there is no advantage over either these T/Ls or the Kadees, certainly in terms of appearance.

More thought needed.........
Click to expand...
also a possibility for you Rob , 1652946793660.png
fleischmann profi couplings , very good but a little pricey , brilliant for pushing stock with .
 
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