7mm The Derby Line - Rolling Stock

[richard carr]

Mick

604 works, in fact sometimes it sticks too well.

If you want to solder a chimney I'm not against it, I just find it miles easier to stick it on with glue.

Richard

 

[oldravendale]

Hello Brian, try this link http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/88206-updating-30862-and-2-more-7mm-nelsons/page-8

OzzyO.

Hi OzzyO. Thanks for that.

I'll work out how to modify the plan to work with the 9F deflectors - there's bit more strapping and stuff which fits to the boiler but I'm certain that can be accommodated.

Brian

 

[dibateg]

The time has now come to finish the loco's individually, so its 92204 first and on to my favourite bit, the pipework. The valves and injectors are Ragstone, replacing the DJH white metal items which I just could not get along with. Ragstone also supply a set of rather nice pipe castings that include the square pipe unions. That saves a lot of time so this chassis is pretty well ready for painting.

 

[Locomodels]

. This 604 is pretty good stuff, I stuck two strips of 10 thou together to strength test, tried pulling apart, one end in vice the other in grips, it pulled the bench top up (MDF 25mm 4x2' with all my stuff on), then tried to twist them and it just failed to part and ended up nearly tearing the metal.

That sounds serious stuff. What is 604 and where can I get some?

 

[mickoo]

Paul, my bad, it's Loctite 480, it's expensive and Ebay is where I got mine from, buy one where they give the expiry date as it has a shelf life. I don't store it anywhere special other than on the shelf in my study
I think it works so well as it has a slight rubber trait which allows it to flex, unlike normal superglues which dry almost rigid. I primarily bought it to stick plasticard to brass, but it's stuck white metal hangers to the frames on the A3 and I've tried to break it off and the casting just bends, unlike superglue or 5 minute epoxy which all broke off with little effort.

Despite it having a rubber trait it is still very very viscous and easily creeps into small gaps. takes about 60 seconds to start going off and workable in an hour or so but full strength is after 24hrs.

Best

Mick

 

[7mmMick]

Lovely work Tony, really nice
Mick

 

[Locomodels]

That looks the Bees Knees Tony, great stuff.

 

[Locomodels]

Thanks Mikoo, I will get me some.

 

[farnetti]

The time has now come to finish the loco's individually, so its 92204 first and on to my favourite bit, the pipework. The valves and injectors are Ragstone, replacing the DJH white metal items which I just could not get along with. Ragstone also supply a set of rather nice pipe castings that include the square pipe unions. That saves a lot of time so this chassis is pretty well ready for painting.
View attachment 41090

Lovely pipework. Shame it has to painted

 

[dibateg]

Yes - I can recommend the Loctite 480, it is one of my armoury of glues..

Thanks Farnetti, unfortunately, the mix of materials means that it will have to be painted, but weathered it will show the detail better.
Regards

 

[richard carr]

You might also like to try 435, again its relatively very expensive but it is very very good, for those times when adhesive is the only answer.

Richard

 

[dibateg]

So after a trip to the Harz and some onsite work I'm back at the workbench. It's strange - none of the location holes for some of the parts seem to be in the right place on this kit. The regulator crank position had to be moved up slightly on the boss and the midway crank was lowered to get the rods looking right relative to the handrail. In fact the midway crank looks too long to me. I junked the white metal pipes in the kit and made mine up from copper wire - it's far easier. 92204 also has the ATC conduit along the running plate.

 

[dibateg]

I sleeved the end of the reversing shaft where the blue mark is, that looks better now.

A question:-
Apart from the 2 main feed pipes on the firemans side, there are two smaller pipes one of which goes in to the cab front. I know one goes in the end of the manifold, where does the other go?

 

[john lewsey]

What lovely work

 

[demu1037]

I sleeved the end of the reversing shaft where the blue mark is, that looks better now.

A question:-
Apart from the 2 main feed pipes on the firemans side, there are two smaller pipes one of which goes in to the cab front. I know one goes in the end of the manifold, where does the other go?
View attachment 41440

From a quick look at pics, It looks like the other one goes all the way over & into the cab just above the drivers window


Tis is of 92240 in preservation, probably a bit neater than it would have been....

Andy

 

[mickoo]

Does this help, copyright unknown.



The firemans side (rear pipe) appears to go to the manifold on top of the firebox, the drivers side (front pipe) appears to go right over the firebox and down to the firemans footplate somewhere.

 

[Steph Dale]

Small bore piping connected to the steam manifold - that'll be the feed for steam gauges I think.

Steph

 

[dibateg]

Excellent! Thanks Mick.

 

[dibateg]

So, I spent a day finishing off the body detail and added the WR platform over the reverser tunnel and the a representation of the hefty bracket behind the buffers. This was made from square brass tube, otherwise it looked too empty there. Next job is to weather and re-assemble the chassis, and we could be on the home straight! Hurrah!

 

[dibateg]

Whilst I'm waiting for various bits of paint to dry, I thought I'd get the back heads done. Most of the castings are brass apart from one, which disintegrated when I tried to drill it for pipes. Why was that one not brass as well?. I ended up scratching a representation, which should only be dimly visible in the dark confines of the cab. I still need to add the continuous blowdown valve, but that's not in the kit. Mr Ragstone?