simond
Western Thunderer
Anyhow, enough of this nonsense!
The mk2 version is a pleasing improvement on the original and will be fitted, among with the bracket, tonight, or tomorrow.
As will the piston rod.
The 3DP simply slides over a bit of brass tube soldered to the motion bracket, but the pipe will have to be unsoldered first.
At this point, I am hopeful that the wheels have the right stroke so the piston rod doesn’t fall out of the pump!
As part of the same shenanigans, the decoder will be installed, and the front sand pipes will be epoxied to the frames, so they are insulated. Had I seen that coming, I’d have planned ahe…. There ain’t much room in the gap!
The mk2 version is a pleasing improvement on the original and will be fitted, among with the bracket, tonight, or tomorrow.
As will the piston rod.
The 3DP simply slides over a bit of brass tube soldered to the motion bracket, but the pipe will have to be unsoldered first.
At this point, I am hopeful that the wheels have the right stroke so the piston rod doesn’t fall out of the pump!
As part of the same shenanigans, the decoder will be installed, and the front sand pipes will be epoxied to the frames, so they are insulated. Had I seen that coming, I’d have planned ahe…. There ain’t much room in the gap!
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Dog Star
Western Thunderer
If I ever see this Pannier shall I see the dot punch marks on the slidebars to define the front and rear limits of the stroke? Used by the fitters to adjust the position of the pump head piston (so as to avoid the embarrassing crack from a piston in very close contact with an end plate). Please note the length of the fastening where the rod passes through the crosshead bracket, there is a bush either side of the bracket and the length of those bushes is adjusted so as to move the pump rod relative to bracket.
Rgds, Graham
simond
Western Thunderer
absolutely!
The centre pops are just under 1mm diameter full size, scaled down of course
simond
Western Thunderer
Decoder installed, along with speaker and front sandpipes and the hanger bracket for the vacuum air pump.
And it’s had its first run along PD loco front siding which at the flick of a switch becomes a programming track - and having checked that it responded to programming, I renumbered it 1368.
So far so good. Now last week, it had a very thorough running session on a Settrack oval on the lounge floor, and you’ve all seen it working well hauling coaches around the Folkestone club track, so why does it now run like a lame horse?
It appears that the con rod just touches the motion bracket, as you can see here. I can only surmise that the suspension has moved a little, perhaps it’s starting to loosen up.
This is not the end of the world, though it is a prize pain in the posterior as there will now have to be some dismantling, filing and remantling.
The other thing that is not pleasing is the sound - it’s not adjusted yet, due to the limp, but it’s far from pleasing. Don’t know if that’s a speaker problem or the sound box I printed for it, but it’s not good enough!
So a few steps forward and at least one back. Some net progress at least.
Once it’s done and dusted, its stablemate, which I built from an indifferent kit some twenty years back, will need a make-over.
But that’s in the future!
(As an aside, the cylinders on mine are too bloody thin too. How difficult is it to provide a kit with the right sized bits in?)
And it’s had its first run along PD loco front siding which at the flick of a switch becomes a programming track - and having checked that it responded to programming, I renumbered it 1368.
So far so good. Now last week, it had a very thorough running session on a Settrack oval on the lounge floor, and you’ve all seen it working well hauling coaches around the Folkestone club track, so why does it now run like a lame horse?
It appears that the con rod just touches the motion bracket, as you can see here. I can only surmise that the suspension has moved a little, perhaps it’s starting to loosen up.
This is not the end of the world, though it is a prize pain in the posterior as there will now have to be some dismantling, filing and remantling.
The other thing that is not pleasing is the sound - it’s not adjusted yet, due to the limp, but it’s far from pleasing. Don’t know if that’s a speaker problem or the sound box I printed for it, but it’s not good enough!
So a few steps forward and at least one back. Some net progress at least.
Once it’s done and dusted, its stablemate, which I built from an indifferent kit some twenty years back, will need a make-over.
But that’s in the future!
(As an aside, the cylinders on mine are too bloody thin too. How difficult is it to provide a kit with the right sized bits in?)
timbowales
Western Thunderer
Simon, re the skinny cylinders, were they supplied as lengths of tube or flat "roll your own"?
If they were tube most likely the manufacturer used whatever he had that was "nearest" instead of spot on
If they were tube most likely the manufacturer used whatever he had that was "nearest" instead of spot on
simond
Western Thunderer
Hi Tim,
the cylinders were etched, with etched formers, which didn’t fit. (Neither did the motion brackets) So I remade the formers so they did fit the frames, and the slidebars, and wrappers that were provided. In fact I turned the chimney, dome and sv covers, and I may have turned the cylinder front covers too, because the castings were good for fishing weights and not much else. I should have just made new cylinders, but I was young, naive and idealistic…
From memory, the awkward bits at the back of the bunker were missing too. Can’t remember what I did about that.
It was the first loco I built with full springing. I bought the saddle tank from the same supplier to build compensated as a comparison, but funnily enough, I never got round to building it. The box is now stuffed with the spare 3DP parts that I made for Chris’ loco, one day, one day…
atb
Simon
the cylinders were etched, with etched formers, which didn’t fit. (Neither did the motion brackets) So I remade the formers so they did fit the frames, and the slidebars, and wrappers that were provided. In fact I turned the chimney, dome and sv covers, and I may have turned the cylinder front covers too, because the castings were good for fishing weights and not much else. I should have just made new cylinders, but I was young, naive and idealistic…
From memory, the awkward bits at the back of the bunker were missing too. Can’t remember what I did about that.
It was the first loco I built with full springing. I bought the saddle tank from the same supplier to build compensated as a comparison, but funnily enough, I never got round to building it. The box is now stuffed with the spare 3DP parts that I made for Chris’ loco, one day, one day…
atb
Simon
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Bless 1368s little cotton socks, still fighting you at every opportunity...
Mind you, I've had my own battles today. Been preparing old 4mm stock for sale, having a big clear out. I can't see me needing 4mm stock, other than a limited amount for my clay cameo, and I have enough to stock a large 4mm exhibition layout.
Nothing has been run for years and the Hornby grease has turned into a glue / concrete mix. Taking a good hour to strip down, clean and reassemble each one. Two down, 60+ to go...
simond
Western Thunderer
Wheels prepared for Tony’s Manor. 10BA steel screws epoxied in from the back, and 3D printed balance weights glued in from the front.
Tony’s 48xx re-wheeled and running. This is proving to be a bit of a 1368 too…. It runs sweetly enough forwards, but growls horribly in reverse. It’s massively over-powered, with a JM motor & box. Can’t decide whether the noise is bad mesh, or something touching, “wot didn’t orta”. It might improve with reduced sideplay (there’s not much but maybe more than required), and it just sits on the trailing axle,so it needs more lead up front. The cab is full of flywheel, so I might try to wangle a crew in there to hide that too.
shame I can’t fix the shade of green..
simond
Western Thunderer
Epoxy set, wheels from the back
Next up, fit the pickup insulators and then spray the chassis. Then I’ll start to assemble it. I’ve printed a vac brake cylinder & brake hangers but I need to print the springs for the bogie, and solder up the brake beams.
That’ll keep me out of mischief for an evening or two…
Meanwhile the pannier is looking at me…
Next up, fit the pickup insulators and then spray the chassis. Then I’ll start to assemble it. I’ve printed a vac brake cylinder & brake hangers but I need to print the springs for the bogie, and solder up the brake beams.
That’ll keep me out of mischief for an evening or two…
Meanwhile the pannier is looking at me…
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Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
I am intrigued to see hex not countersunk heads on the crank pins. I guess, hex in an oversize counterbore leaves more space for the epoxy?
simond
Western Thunderer
Precisely!
Slaters wheels seem to vary. I have had wheels with a counterbore & crankpin hole, and wheels with only the crankpin hole. In the latter case, I drill a counterbore. I then tap the wheels using a drill press, and screw a 10BA machine screw into the wheel from the rear. A drop of epoxy on the thread and then screw it in tight. The epoxy fills the hole, and hopefully some also finds its way into the thread. I’ve done it this way for 25 years, and no failures to date. Touch wood…
I should add, I use steel screws, and I’m running out. I do have brass CSK but prefer steel for such applications.
I have also seen CSK screws with a bit of wire soldered into the slot, and that then epoxied in the wheel. I’m sure that would work too.
I don’t like the use of 12BA screws in wheels, though they are fitted to thousands of locos, I’d guess.
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timbowales
Western Thunderer
There, that's put the mockers on it
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
I've bought brass BA hardware from GWR Fasteners, good products and service and of course a memorable name
Pardon our interruption...
PS clever title for a linked page too!
Brian McKenzie
Western Thunderer
simond
Western Thunderer
Never being one to have one project on the go when I could have seventeen, here’s another bit of silliness
We have just taken delivery of a Bambu FDM printer at work. It seems very good, certainly better than our Ultimaker 3, though to be fair, that is about 7 years old.
It would have been remiss of me not to try it out…
Yep, that fits
In fact, the wheel bearings and chain are simple drop in, the keeper plates will need a little filing to enable them sit snug and retain the axles, though they’re pretty much a clip fit with no work. The keepers will also keep the crud out if I use it outdoors. I’d tried to do this in resin but soon decided that I was barking up the wrong tree. Well, barking, anyway.
Ah, but this bit is not quite right
There’s a hook at the back of the bogie tops which should engage in a slot in the bit I printed, but somehow I got that wrong. I’ll have to sort it in the Mk2 version - which will also have a recess to accept the Roundhead screws which fix the motor to the mounting plates (that I have not yet made).
The motors were recovered from a couple of life expired HP desk-jet printers. I got some ultra scale gears, Peartree wheels & axles and I don’t know whose delrin chains at the last Kempton show.
By now I expect most of you will have guessed where this is going…
A “Blue Flyer” in all its glory - though it’s going to be green…
The cabs are popped out for internal decoration and glazing, hence the jaunty angle.
Fuel & air tanks and other gubbins to follow.
I’m thinking that it’ll be battery RC, though I might fit pickups too, with a suitable switch. There’s a fair bit of space inside.
Jolly fun!
We have just taken delivery of a Bambu FDM printer at work. It seems very good, certainly better than our Ultimaker 3, though to be fair, that is about 7 years old.
It would have been remiss of me not to try it out…
Yep, that fits
In fact, the wheel bearings and chain are simple drop in, the keeper plates will need a little filing to enable them sit snug and retain the axles, though they’re pretty much a clip fit with no work. The keepers will also keep the crud out if I use it outdoors. I’d tried to do this in resin but soon decided that I was barking up the wrong tree. Well, barking, anyway.
Ah, but this bit is not quite right
There’s a hook at the back of the bogie tops which should engage in a slot in the bit I printed, but somehow I got that wrong. I’ll have to sort it in the Mk2 version - which will also have a recess to accept the Roundhead screws which fix the motor to the mounting plates (that I have not yet made).
The motors were recovered from a couple of life expired HP desk-jet printers. I got some ultra scale gears, Peartree wheels & axles and I don’t know whose delrin chains at the last Kempton show.
By now I expect most of you will have guessed where this is going…
A “Blue Flyer” in all its glory - though it’s going to be green…
The cabs are popped out for internal decoration and glazing, hence the jaunty angle.
Fuel & air tanks and other gubbins to follow.
I’m thinking that it’ll be battery RC, though I might fit pickups too, with a suitable switch. There’s a fair bit of space inside.
Jolly fun!
Phil O
Western Thunderer
I thought you couldn’t polish a Jobbie..
I've seen one painted and face drawn on it, further detail is not required.
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
This is wandering off in to the realms of water companies and Private Eye. Stoppit!
Brian