SimonT
Western Thunderer
Simon,
does your 'lightbox' bake as well? I cure with UV light and a bake at 45C for 45-60 minutes, dependent on volume/shape.
The only curling I've had is on thin (0.7mm) window bars when I baked them at 60C. Slightly cooler for longer puts the same amount of energy into the resin.
does your 'lightbox' bake as well? I cure with UV light and a bake at 45C for 45-60 minutes, dependent on volume/shape.
The only curling I've had is on thin (0.7mm) window bars when I baked them at 60C. Slightly cooler for longer puts the same amount of energy into the resin.
Giles
Western Thunderer
I have a large UV torch which I occasionally use for post-curing parts that I may have doubts about. I also use it if ever I use the resin as a 'glue".
simond
Western Thunderer
No, it has no heating. I have not tried exposures as long as an hour either! Typically I give it around 15 minutes.
Following curing the bigger/thicker parts are noticeably warmer. I assume this is a result of the curing reaction itself, presumably putting UV frequency energy in means the part has to get hotter, (or radiate the energy some other way). Being a chemical process, it'll happen quicker if warmer, but I wasn't aware that warming was a recommended way of curing the printed parts.
I can see that a translucent resin might be easier to cure throughout, and I guess that a result of that might be that over-exposure in the tank might lead to an apparently "out of focus" print due to light bleed within the resin itself. I have some clear resin to try out for lamp lenses, I had a try of it but have not yet conducted any serious trials. I want to print the lens for a really big lamp to go in front of the shed - I think there's one in the Lyons book in Leamington or Tyseley.
I quite like Giles' dog-pee torch, my curing box came with a torch-on-a-flylead to use for glue lines or other areas that need a bit more cure, so I can use that but haven't needed to very often.
thx
Simon
simond
Western Thunderer
Thanks Graham. It looks rather like the ones in the photos Chris sent me, but I’ll have another look.
presume the “pepper pot” is a relief valve of some description. Do you have a picture?
there was an oiler on the front of the motion bracket in one photo. I haven’t tried to replicate it, as it was very small.
ta
Simon
presume the “pepper pot” is a relief valve of some description. Do you have a picture?
there was an oiler on the front of the motion bracket in one photo. I haven’t tried to replicate it, as it was very small.
ta
Simon
timbowales
Western Thunderer
Dave, that could be a WW2 photo when LNER & LMS locos were lent to the GWR to replace requisitioned Dean Goods?
Just a suggestion
Just a suggestion
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Simon,
The oil pot on the front face of the motion plate is for lubrication of the pump rod... the packing in the pump body is three cast-iron rings and requires direct lubrication (each ring is split into three segments with a spiral wound spring to keep the segments tight to the pump rod). The oil pot for the pump bore is the cylinder on the top of the body, to the left of the vertical vacuum pipe.
The pepper pot is not visible in Dave's photo.
Rgds, Graham
The oil pot on the front face of the motion plate is for lubrication of the pump rod... the packing in the pump body is three cast-iron rings and requires direct lubrication (each ring is split into three segments with a spiral wound spring to keep the segments tight to the pump rod). The oil pot for the pump bore is the cylinder on the top of the body, to the left of the vertical vacuum pipe.
The pepper pot is not visible in Dave's photo.
Rgds, Graham
simond
Western Thunderer
Compare & contrast. I can’t see the same arrangement here
photo from DJH advert. K31 Kit - GWR/BR 1366 Class 0-6-0T | DJH Model Loco
photo from DJH advert. K31 Kit - GWR/BR 1366 Class 0-6-0T | DJH Model Loco
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Looking like a 1366. Amazing now to think how many parts now aren't from the kit. Everything below the footplate isn't. And about the only things retained footplate and above are the flat etched items.
A classic case of, if you want an accurate 1366, I wouldn't start with this kit...
Fantastic work Simon.
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Hi Simon, here's a couple of snips to illustrate was was fitted to the right loco (1368) in the period when it was at Wadebridge.
No idea if the pump fittings changed over time.
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Do you GW chappies not use skyhooks?
simond
Western Thunderer
Thanks Simon
Said plate is on my mind. I think it will be soldered to the underside of the footplate against the hanging bar, and its end will be hidden behind the pump, hopefully where it won’t compromise the already negligible clearances. The pump is a slip fit over a bit of tube soldered to the motion bracket. I have not yet fitted the pump rod, but the trunnion is present & correct.
Don’t want to solder the pump hanger bracket, vac & steam heat pipes on til the chassis is done & dusted, as the body is on and off frequently when I’m actually doing something, and they’re vulnerable.
it is difficult to decipher Chris’ photos, but the thing that looks like a bicycle dynamo is obviously present atop the pump cylinder in the lower picture. Dave’s photo is clearer. The upper picture seems to show two pipes. I’ll reprint the pump, with the cylindrical thing on top, that’s not too onerous!
Graham, please can you clarify re the “pepper pot”?
cheers
Simon
