simond
Western Thunderer
the frames were just north of a fiver, but there’s a lot more - spacers, slidebars, motion brackets, etc.
the brass seems very soft, possibly it is annealed by the cutting process, (and HAZ are visible around holes, etc) but the cutting is exquisitely precise. I can see this becoming a “thing I do”.
I have a Garratt project (see @Giles ’ avatar, but mine’s not finished, nor as bloody lovely as his…), which has been waiting for valve gear for about five years…
I have a Hymek project too…
happy days!
S
the brass seems very soft, possibly it is annealed by the cutting process, (and HAZ are visible around holes, etc) but the cutting is exquisitely precise. I can see this becoming a “thing I do”.
I have a Garratt project (see @Giles ’ avatar, but mine’s not finished, nor as bloody lovely as his…), which has been waiting for valve gear for about five years…
I have a Hymek project too…
happy days!
S
simond
Western Thunderer
Excellent service from John Gymer at YouChoos saw an apparently defunct Zimo 645 decoder resuscitated, and returned with new tails fitted. Apparently, they can get themselves into a tizzy that requires several resets to escape from. I did not know this.
It was promptly re-installed in @JohnM ’s pug and a little gentle programming followed. Happily there was nothing on telly, as getting the chuff synch’ed would have wound the family up a treat…. New motor and gearbox (Roxey) are lovely and quiet, runs beautifully.
Another job ticked off the list!
Merry Christmas
Simon
It was promptly re-installed in @JohnM ’s pug and a little gentle programming followed. Happily there was nothing on telly, as getting the chuff synch’ed would have wound the family up a treat…. New motor and gearbox (Roxey) are lovely and quiet, runs beautifully.
Another job ticked off the list!
Merry Christmas
Simon
simond
Western Thunderer
Cheapo CNC milling and workbench co-incide…
nice simple program to mill a slot, 1.6mm cutter, slot 2mm deep, in 0.1mm slices. Takes a couple of minutes, but I don’t care how long it takes, I can ignore it now it works
5 done, 7 to go. That‘ll be six for my Saddle Tank, and six for Tony’s Manor. The six for Chris’ pannier were done by hand when I did my small prairie. Next job for the miller will be the axleboxes. Currently the family is watching another Xmas movie, so the miller is silenced. The downside of the workshop in the lounge. The upside is of course that it’s warm!
Talking of Tony’s Manor, we have a little progress on an equalised Bar Frame Bogie. Somewhat experimental at this stage, it’ll work, but “could be better” - the intent is to make it CSB - but it’s a start - looks the part anyway, and will look even better with the guard irons fitted, and the 3DP springs between the equalisers.
Merry thing!
Simon
nice simple program to mill a slot, 1.6mm cutter, slot 2mm deep, in 0.1mm slices. Takes a couple of minutes, but I don’t care how long it takes, I can ignore it now it works
5 done, 7 to go. That‘ll be six for my Saddle Tank, and six for Tony’s Manor. The six for Chris’ pannier were done by hand when I did my small prairie. Next job for the miller will be the axleboxes. Currently the family is watching another Xmas movie, so the miller is silenced. The downside of the workshop in the lounge. The upside is of course that it’s warm!
Talking of Tony’s Manor, we have a little progress on an equalised Bar Frame Bogie. Somewhat experimental at this stage, it’ll work, but “could be better” - the intent is to make it CSB - but it’s a start - looks the part anyway, and will look even better with the guard irons fitted, and the 3DP springs between the equalisers.
Merry thing!
Simon
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Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Cheapo CNC milling and workbench co-incide…
View attachment 204988
View attachment 204989
nice simple program to mill a slot, 1.6mm cutter, slot 2mm deep, in 0.1mm slices. Takes a couple of minutes, but I don’t care how long it takes, I can ignore it now it works
Clever stuff. Slightly more refined than the 6" bastard file I've just been using...
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Worts dat den?
simond
Western Thunderer
the bit wot converts this
to this
18 of them made. 6 for your pannier, 6 for my saddle tank, and 6 for Tony's manor.
Next step is 24 bits of angle brass about 2 x 2 x 6 with a hole in... Think I better leave them for today, we have made enough noise already...
I shall ponder how to make a nice little jig for holding the axleboxes and their "legs" in position so I don't need to invent new rude words by burning myself whilst soldering.
to this
18 of them made. 6 for your pannier, 6 for my saddle tank, and 6 for Tony's manor.
Next step is 24 bits of angle brass about 2 x 2 x 6 with a hole in... Think I better leave them for today, we have made enough noise already...
I shall ponder how to make a nice little jig for holding the axleboxes and their "legs" in position so I don't need to invent new rude words by burning myself whilst soldering.
adrian
Flying Squad
That's why I made mine from flat sheet to slip over the axlebox and twisted the end through 90deg.
Paul Tomlinson
Western Thunderer
London Road Models have done the job in 4mm, seems to me to be a job for the etchers, if the demand is there?
adrian
Flying Squad
Sort of etched but not by me. Basically the kit as supplied had the holes etched for making a rigid chassis, these were cutout to convert to CSB - the parts cutout were then modified as per the photo.
Another in 4mm is High Level. I know a few modellers who have had their own drawings etched.
Anyone not familiar with CSB suspension might find High Level's tutorial informative.
Anyone not familiar with CSB suspension might find High Level's tutorial informative.
simond
Western Thunderer
The High Level jig is a useful bit of kit. When I did the first loco, the 45xx back on page 44 or so, I arranged the chassis anchors to be angle brass with a hole drilled at the right height to allow me solder them inside the frames with the top of the angle coincident with the top of the frames. I have now simply created a set of brass angles which I will solder inside the frames using my RSU. I will have to scribe the height to get it right.
I'm just at this stage now on Chris' pannier chassis. I have a kit of bits for the ST version, and I have a part-assembled chassis for the Manor.
More soon...
I'm just at this stage now on Chris' pannier chassis. I have a kit of bits for the ST version, and I have a part-assembled chassis for the Manor.
More soon...
simond
Western Thunderer
High-tech being of the essence, waxing spatulae have been pressed into service to make a soldering jig.
It’s stuck to the Unimat T-slot table with double sided tape, and it’s heavy enough to stay put. The piano wire spring presses the “leg” into the slot in the axlebox and the parts can be soldered whilst pressing the axlebox down into the recess - otherwise it tends to “sit up” at an angle which is not ideal.
And the first result - Chris’ pannier sitting on its springs for the first time. I’m delighted with the smooth running through my pointwork, CSB really does seem to work.
As expected, the loco is a bit nose heavy. Not much but it does look like the wheel rim on the front axle is slightly more hidden behind the hanging bar than the rear. Maybe a bit less than 0.5mm. It’s within the range of ballast anyway.
Next step will be pickups so I can actually run it.
That’s a load of repetitive, simple lathe work, and I don’t (yet) have a CNC lathe at home…
And then we’ll get to the tricky bit. Crossheads and front axle crankpin…
It’s stuck to the Unimat T-slot table with double sided tape, and it’s heavy enough to stay put. The piano wire spring presses the “leg” into the slot in the axlebox and the parts can be soldered whilst pressing the axlebox down into the recess - otherwise it tends to “sit up” at an angle which is not ideal.
And the first result - Chris’ pannier sitting on its springs for the first time. I’m delighted with the smooth running through my pointwork, CSB really does seem to work.
As expected, the loco is a bit nose heavy. Not much but it does look like the wheel rim on the front axle is slightly more hidden behind the hanging bar than the rear. Maybe a bit less than 0.5mm. It’s within the range of ballast anyway.
Next step will be pickups so I can actually run it.
That’s a load of repetitive, simple lathe work, and I don’t (yet) have a CNC lathe at home…
And then we’ll get to the tricky bit. Crossheads and front axle crankpin…