Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Yes, the corks are stoppers for oil reservoirs... there are felt pads within the whitemetal linings of the crosshead slippers and the oil runs into the felt by capillary action.
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Thanks for the confirmation, much appreciated.
simond
Western Thunderer
The printer’s printing…
meanwhile a gazillion years ago, @John Baker kindly printed some tanks for my APOC twin tank wagon, and it finally got into the “get on with it” bit of my mind. I sprayed it last week with rattle can red oxide, and went to put the transfers on, but thought, mmm, dead matt, silvery lines, so one of my (two) purchases at the Folkestone show yesterday was a bottle of gloss varnish. It was only when it wasn’t very dry last evening that it occurred to me that there were some concerns about Humbrol, but anyway… it’s dry now. But is it glossy enough?
it’s very obviously glossier than the bits I’ve not sprayed, but..
Are we going for another spraying session to try to get it really glossy, or will this do?
(The other purchase was an untouched JPL LMS 8 ton 5 plank wagon kit in whitemetal. £13.50. A bargain! Already mostly assembled.)
cheers
Simon
meanwhile a gazillion years ago, @John Baker kindly printed some tanks for my APOC twin tank wagon, and it finally got into the “get on with it” bit of my mind. I sprayed it last week with rattle can red oxide, and went to put the transfers on, but thought, mmm, dead matt, silvery lines, so one of my (two) purchases at the Folkestone show yesterday was a bottle of gloss varnish. It was only when it wasn’t very dry last evening that it occurred to me that there were some concerns about Humbrol, but anyway… it’s dry now. But is it glossy enough?
it’s very obviously glossier than the bits I’ve not sprayed, but..
Are we going for another spraying session to try to get it really glossy, or will this do?
(The other purchase was an untouched JPL LMS 8 ton 5 plank wagon kit in whitemetal. £13.50. A bargain! Already mostly assembled.)
cheers
Simon
Dan Randall
Western Thunderer
Hi Simon
I think you‘ll need them glossier than than, to avoid silvering. Lovely prints though!
Regards
Dan
I think you‘ll need them glossier than than, to avoid silvering. Lovely prints though!
Regards
Dan
Paul Tomlinson
Western Thunderer
In the July 23 EMGS Newsletter there was an interesting feature on transfer application by member Stu Davies, which mentioned a product I previously hadn't come across, which might be useful.
simond
Western Thunderer
Whilst waiting for the varnish to harden enough to put a few more coats on, I set about fixing an issue with the JPL wagon. The axleboxes are ok on the outside, but they are not thick enough on the inside. This gives far too much sideplay. You could fix it at source by not drilling them out so far for the bearings, but you won’t know if you got it right until you’ve soldered the wagon together, and then it’s too late. And you either have to build it without the wheels, as I did, and then spring them in (just…) or solder it together with the wheels & axles in place, which would require more hands than evolution supplied me with.
So plasticard “c” washers…
they will pop onto the bearing, two per side, gives a lovely free running wagon and, bonus, it doesn’t rock on the plate glass either,
I'm wondering whether to razor saw down the door shut lines as they’re not very obvious. The buffers are irredeemable and will be replaced by turned heads in 3DP stocks, so they’re just poked in the buffer planks for now. I’ll glue the brake levers on after paint, and will drill a couple of holes in the solebars to add wire horse hooks. I oil-blacked some steel Premier couplings (I prefer the steel because you can do this, quicker and simpler than gun blue) and have temporarily fitted them.
Whilst it’s surely quaint, I’m not at all sure what it is. There’s no diagram number on the kit packaging, and given there were only 13 pieces in the kit, no instructions either (though as you’ll see in the photo, the floor is helpfully labelled!). The Slaters 8t MR 5 plank has V hangers and brakes on both axles, this has only the long lever and a block on one wheel each side, and I guess there were superseded by RCH designs in 1923? Would they still be in use in 1930?
Printer’s still going. It said just under four hours when I started it, rapidly increased to four and a half, and seems to be suggesting half six tonight.
atb
Simon
postscript. Is “OWK/2” actually a diagram number? I assumed it’s the reference of the kit.
So plasticard “c” washers…
they will pop onto the bearing, two per side, gives a lovely free running wagon and, bonus, it doesn’t rock on the plate glass either,
I'm wondering whether to razor saw down the door shut lines as they’re not very obvious. The buffers are irredeemable and will be replaced by turned heads in 3DP stocks, so they’re just poked in the buffer planks for now. I’ll glue the brake levers on after paint, and will drill a couple of holes in the solebars to add wire horse hooks. I oil-blacked some steel Premier couplings (I prefer the steel because you can do this, quicker and simpler than gun blue) and have temporarily fitted them.
Whilst it’s surely quaint, I’m not at all sure what it is. There’s no diagram number on the kit packaging, and given there were only 13 pieces in the kit, no instructions either (though as you’ll see in the photo, the floor is helpfully labelled!). The Slaters 8t MR 5 plank has V hangers and brakes on both axles, this has only the long lever and a block on one wheel each side, and I guess there were superseded by RCH designs in 1923? Would they still be in use in 1930?
Printer’s still going. It said just under four hours when I started it, rapidly increased to four and a half, and seems to be suggesting half six tonight.
atb
Simon
postscript. Is “OWK/2” actually a diagram number? I assumed it’s the reference of the kit.
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Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
I believe that Johnsons Klear is now called Future.
Thankfully, I chanced upon an old time hardware shop that had a shelf full of Klear a few years ago. So I bought the lot at less than £1 a bottle. Enough to see me out I hope.
Thankfully, I chanced upon an old time hardware shop that had a shelf full of Klear a few years ago. So I bought the lot at less than £1 a bottle. Enough to see me out I hope.
simond
Western Thunderer
Hot off the printer…
Yesterday’s print was a mixed bag, unfortunately, the standard GW cylinders failed, and the 1366 cylinders came out with their fixing holes blocked so I re-did the supports and ran another print overnight. At first sight, it looks hopeful.
The cylinder end covers and some valve thingies for the twin tank were ok on yesterday’s print.
The figures are part of my Modelu Patreon subscription, so I can take no credit there!
Yesterday’s print was a mixed bag, unfortunately, the standard GW cylinders failed, and the 1366 cylinders came out with their fixing holes blocked so I re-did the supports and ran another print overnight. At first sight, it looks hopeful.
The cylinder end covers and some valve thingies for the twin tank were ok on yesterday’s print.
The figures are part of my Modelu Patreon subscription, so I can take no credit there!
simond
Western Thunderer
and the three I printed yesterday...
It's sometimes worth trying different orientations and supports to see what works best - it's definitely quicker to do several attempts at a time.
Invevitably, if you don't, one or both of what you're waiting for will fail and you'll have to do it again. If you do, obviously they all work...
Anyway, you can always use one of the spare ones as a keyring!
It's sometimes worth trying different orientations and supports to see what works best - it's definitely quicker to do several attempts at a time.
Invevitably, if you don't, one or both of what you're waiting for will fail and you'll have to do it again. If you do, obviously they all work...
Anyway, you can always use one of the spare ones as a keyring!
simond
Western Thunderer
Well, multi-cylinder printing is the way to go, in total I printed 10 over the two runs and got 5 useable ones. Now if I can just remember which those were, I’d be able to up my average!
Anyway, I temporarily fitted a pair to the loco
They might be a little high - the chassis sits slightly towards the far side due to the shunter’s step hitting the hanger bar, but they’re actually 3.5mm higher than the Agenoria frames would indicate. That’s six inches…
I’ve cheated, temporarily, it’s double sided tape
Which is obviously thicker and offsets the cylinders outboard, but highlights the problem I had with my own model - the clearance between coupling rod and back of crosshead will be critical. Certainly it won’t be a 12BA nut outboard of the rods.
There’s a difference…
Meanwhile, in the bigger loco department…
Rather pleased with these
Looks like slide bars next…
Anyway, I temporarily fitted a pair to the loco
They might be a little high - the chassis sits slightly towards the far side due to the shunter’s step hitting the hanger bar, but they’re actually 3.5mm higher than the Agenoria frames would indicate. That’s six inches…
I’ve cheated, temporarily, it’s double sided tape
Which is obviously thicker and offsets the cylinders outboard, but highlights the problem I had with my own model - the clearance between coupling rod and back of crosshead will be critical. Certainly it won’t be a 12BA nut outboard of the rods.
There’s a difference…
Meanwhile, in the bigger loco department…
Rather pleased with these
Looks like slide bars next…
John Baker
Western Thunderer
Ahah - I'd forgotten about these! Good to see them in progress now
Good luck with the painting....
simond
Western Thunderer
Not feeling the vibe for risking APOC transfers tonight, that'll wait for the weekend. Meanwhile, more little panniers.
I think we have a route to a chassis... Premier frames, 28mm over the outside (or very close). The cylinders were drawn to scale, but of course over the frames, the real beast is a bit wider - 4'1.125 between, and frames 1.25" thick,(assuming I've read the drawing correctly) comes out at near on 30.1 - so they need packing out by a millimetre each side - or reprinting slightly thicker - I 'm inclined to use a 40 thou plasticard packing piece and I can hear the S7 guys giggling to themselves and saying "told you so" from here
Next question. suspension.
Options are:
A) rigid. No, no, and thrice no. well, maybe. but no.
B) sprung with coil springs. Mine is sprung this way and was a complete PITA when I first built it (some 23 years ago) as it did a credible impression of a nodding dog on starting, and particularly on stopping. Sorted it eventually but don't want to do that again.
C) compensated. Milkmaids have, as I have earlier remarked, three legged stools, because they don't wobble (the stools, the milkmaids may wobble if they wish, who am I to stop them). Agenoria* panniers are provided with 4 legged compensation which isn't compensation and doesn't, indeed, can't work. 3 legged is possible. Possibly double beams at the rear, and the front axle with a centre fulcrum. (* before Andy Beaton took it over.)
D) CSB. Never done it. Should be possible. Interesting.
Need to consider position of CoG. The body is weighted, indeed, I think our Pencarrow has a supply of depleted uranium or something.
It tips the scales (and will likely flatten your track) at 679g of which 403 at front buffer beam 276 at rear. CoG is therefore 64mm from front buffer plank, which is pretty much directly under the dome, and about 11.5mm ahead of the driving axle. And it will get heavier, of course. This is a good reason for not compensating it with a rocking beam between the middle and front axle. The CoG would be only just within the triangle and a bit of excited cornering might be destructive and possibly spectacular.
The very tight clearances behind the crossheads mean I do not want the front axle to rock much, it'll need to move a bit, but only a bit...
Not wild about Finney hornguides. Might go Slaters.
I shall consider further.
Right, that's it for tonight.
Simon
I think we have a route to a chassis... Premier frames, 28mm over the outside (or very close). The cylinders were drawn to scale, but of course over the frames, the real beast is a bit wider - 4'1.125 between, and frames 1.25" thick,(assuming I've read the drawing correctly) comes out at near on 30.1 - so they need packing out by a millimetre each side - or reprinting slightly thicker - I 'm inclined to use a 40 thou plasticard packing piece and I can hear the S7 guys giggling to themselves and saying "told you so" from here
Next question. suspension.
Options are:
A) rigid. No, no, and thrice no. well, maybe. but no.
B) sprung with coil springs. Mine is sprung this way and was a complete PITA when I first built it (some 23 years ago) as it did a credible impression of a nodding dog on starting, and particularly on stopping. Sorted it eventually but don't want to do that again.
C) compensated. Milkmaids have, as I have earlier remarked, three legged stools, because they don't wobble (the stools, the milkmaids may wobble if they wish, who am I to stop them). Agenoria* panniers are provided with 4 legged compensation which isn't compensation and doesn't, indeed, can't work. 3 legged is possible. Possibly double beams at the rear, and the front axle with a centre fulcrum. (* before Andy Beaton took it over.)
D) CSB. Never done it. Should be possible. Interesting.
Need to consider position of CoG. The body is weighted, indeed, I think our Pencarrow has a supply of depleted uranium or something.
It tips the scales (and will likely flatten your track) at 679g of which 403 at front buffer beam 276 at rear. CoG is therefore 64mm from front buffer plank, which is pretty much directly under the dome, and about 11.5mm ahead of the driving axle. And it will get heavier, of course. This is a good reason for not compensating it with a rocking beam between the middle and front axle. The CoG would be only just within the triangle and a bit of excited cornering might be destructive and possibly spectacular.
The very tight clearances behind the crossheads mean I do not want the front axle to rock much, it'll need to move a bit, but only a bit...
Not wild about Finney hornguides. Might go Slaters.
I shall consider further.
Right, that's it for tonight.
Simon
daifly
Western Thunderer
Sorry, was I THAT loud?I can hear the S7 guys giggling to themselves and saying "told you so" from here
Dave
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