Mike G's Workspace.
- Thread starter Mike Garwood
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Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
So going back a few posts - 105 - D1845 was the topic. This is now lined out, but I have no idea where the coach numbers were placed...in BR days. And did the guards doors have the 'Guard' underneath one or both doors.
My limited LMS library has no details for these aspects of this coach. Jenkinson and Essery 'An illustrated history of LMS coaches' and Jenkinson 'Historic Carriage Drawings Vol 2'.
Any help appreciated.
In other news D1791 has been lined out as well and I've built 2 Insulated meat vans - just the bodies - which now await the building of Mr Newitts underframes...which will be the next job after the coaches are completed. And yes still waiting for bits to arrive for the 51XX.
Stay safe,
Mike
My limited LMS library has no details for these aspects of this coach. Jenkinson and Essery 'An illustrated history of LMS coaches' and Jenkinson 'Historic Carriage Drawings Vol 2'.
Any help appreciated.
In other news D1791 has been lined out as well and I've built 2 Insulated meat vans - just the bodies - which now await the building of Mr Newitts underframes...which will be the next job after the coaches are completed. And yes still waiting for bits to arrive for the 51XX.
Stay safe,
Mike
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
BR numbering of LMS coaches...did BR just add an M to the end of the existing coach number or did they add any numbers to the coach as well? So, M 1234 became M 1234 M...
Mike
Mike
AJC
Western Thunderer
NewportRod
Western Thunderer
Mike
You've already got the answer you need - especially as your chosen period is later on in the British Railways period, but here are a few more details.
The practice on the Western region, and probably the Midland acted similarly, was that GWR coach 1234 was initially renumbered W1234. Subsequently, from around 1950, a further W was added as a suffix, giving us W1234W, BR-built coaches did not receive the W suffix so W12345 would be a BR-built, BR(WR)-allocated coach. This practice also led to interesting examples where vehicles were transferred between regions - e.g. M23456W would be seen on an LMS-built vehicle, allocated to the Western Region.
Rod
You've already got the answer you need - especially as your chosen period is later on in the British Railways period, but here are a few more details.
The practice on the Western region, and probably the Midland acted similarly, was that GWR coach 1234 was initially renumbered W1234. Subsequently, from around 1950, a further W was added as a suffix, giving us W1234W, BR-built coaches did not receive the W suffix so W12345 would be a BR-built, BR(WR)-allocated coach. This practice also led to interesting examples where vehicles were transferred between regions - e.g. M23456W would be seen on an LMS-built vehicle, allocated to the Western Region.
Rod
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
It's been a while...
So between holidays and Grandparent duties I have still been busy. The coaches are still at the fore front of my work list, but I have not had the opportunity to varnish these - that changes this Sunday as my wife is going out for the day...
I've built and finished 2 BR Insulated meat vans which I built side by side (a first for me to batch build). These follow the usual build program as they are Parkside bodies on some of Mr Newitts' finest chassis. As usual Justin's etches are top notch and everything fits without any hacking about.
I have to say I'm rather pleased with this pair, the chassis have turned out really well. The weathering is a result of 'innovation being the mother of all cock ups'.
I'll explain.
So when I had sprayed the bodies I choose BR bauxite, which normally would be fine for vans. So to get an idea of the type of weathering I needed for these I went to the Paul Bartlett site. This was when I found that there are 2 types of Insulated meat vans!
The colour of mine should have been white! I did contemplate a complete respray, but then the grey matter kicked in. If I dry painted the white over the top, the bottom layer (the bauxite) would show thru as grunge. If this failed then I could always do the complete respray. I've never tried dry painting with acrylic before, it took a fair while to get the coverage I wanted and then to get the de-crepidation these vehicles needed. Obviously they will accompany the fish van I built some posts back. I have more vans to build and I shall be searching out the details before I fire up the airbrush!!
These will go to Barrow Road next week - along with a lot more rolling stock for evaluation.
So roll on Sunday...
Stay safe.
Mike
So between holidays and Grandparent duties I have still been busy. The coaches are still at the fore front of my work list, but I have not had the opportunity to varnish these - that changes this Sunday as my wife is going out for the day...
I've built and finished 2 BR Insulated meat vans which I built side by side (a first for me to batch build). These follow the usual build program as they are Parkside bodies on some of Mr Newitts' finest chassis. As usual Justin's etches are top notch and everything fits without any hacking about.
I have to say I'm rather pleased with this pair, the chassis have turned out really well. The weathering is a result of 'innovation being the mother of all cock ups'.
I'll explain.
So when I had sprayed the bodies I choose BR bauxite, which normally would be fine for vans. So to get an idea of the type of weathering I needed for these I went to the Paul Bartlett site. This was when I found that there are 2 types of Insulated meat vans!
The colour of mine should have been white! I did contemplate a complete respray, but then the grey matter kicked in. If I dry painted the white over the top, the bottom layer (the bauxite) would show thru as grunge. If this failed then I could always do the complete respray. I've never tried dry painting with acrylic before, it took a fair while to get the coverage I wanted and then to get the de-crepidation these vehicles needed. Obviously they will accompany the fish van I built some posts back. I have more vans to build and I shall be searching out the details before I fire up the airbrush!!These will go to Barrow Road next week - along with a lot more rolling stock for evaluation.
So roll on Sunday...
Stay safe.
Mike
Chas Levin
Western Thunderer
Nice work Mike - always satisfying to turn a mishap into an unexpected success!
How did you find your first go at batch building? I'm doing the same thing currently, a pair of wagons, my first batch build too; I'm finding it very enjoyable. It's definitely the case that you put in less work for the pair than you would in building them both as singles, because you have all the tools and bits and pieces for each stage ready for both, instead of having to set up and break down each time, plus anything you have to figure out, you then apply the knowledge twice, instead of fogetting it after building one and having to figure things out again for another later build...
How did you find your first go at batch building? I'm doing the same thing currently, a pair of wagons, my first batch build too; I'm finding it very enjoyable. It's definitely the case that you put in less work for the pair than you would in building them both as singles, because you have all the tools and bits and pieces for each stage ready for both, instead of having to set up and break down each time, plus anything you have to figure out, you then apply the knowledge twice, instead of fogetting it after building one and having to figure things out again for another later build...
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Hi Chas
I think the unexpected dividend of batch building is the fact that as you start any process on the second one, you are aware of pitfalls - making it easier. I don’t know that I’d like to do this with a full loco kit though.
And I’ve just remembered I have done this before. I built 30 Bill Bedford sprung bodies. It’s somewhere in these ramblings. But the first time for a full wagon kit.
Mike
I think the unexpected dividend of batch building is the fact that as you start any process on the second one, you are aware of pitfalls - making it easier. I don’t know that I’d like to do this with a full loco kit though.
And I’ve just remembered I have done this before. I built 30 Bill Bedford sprung bodies. It’s somewhere in these ramblings. But the first time for a full wagon kit.
Mike
Chas Levin
Western Thunderer
Wow - building 30 of anything definitely counts as batch building!!
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
So at long last the coaches are finished...
D1781
D1845
Comments welcomed, good or bad. And yes I know I've forgotten to paint the security rails at the guards end!
The parts for the GWR 51xx are now in the box, but, I have recently become the owner of a Malcolm Mitchell 43xx kit. I know, what's a boy to do!
The difference between the 2 kits is not in the etching, but in the instructions. The MM kit has full blown exploded diagrams. Mr Finney doesn't do this. Instead you have pages of written instructions. I'm not great at transferring written instructions into doable actions, I prefer diagrams that show me where stuff goes. If I build it in the wrong order then that's on me.
Anyway, off to Barrow Road tomorrow with some built and weathered vans and wagons. Something like 15 in total, all sprung. I think the 52xx will be on duty. Really looking forward to this and to see if my eyesight and hand control is up to the coupling up...if it's not then I may have to re-think the way I couple up, at least to the engine, and the way that the train is split in the yard. Lots to contemplate in the near future.
Stay safe
Mike
D1781
D1845
Comments welcomed, good or bad. And yes I know I've forgotten to paint the security rails at the guards end!
The parts for the GWR 51xx are now in the box, but, I have recently become the owner of a Malcolm Mitchell 43xx kit. I know, what's a boy to do!
The difference between the 2 kits is not in the etching, but in the instructions. The MM kit has full blown exploded diagrams. Mr Finney doesn't do this. Instead you have pages of written instructions. I'm not great at transferring written instructions into doable actions, I prefer diagrams that show me where stuff goes. If I build it in the wrong order then that's on me.
Anyway, off to Barrow Road tomorrow with some built and weathered vans and wagons. Something like 15 in total, all sprung. I think the 52xx will be on duty. Really looking forward to this and to see if my eyesight and hand control is up to the coupling up...if it's not then I may have to re-think the way I couple up, at least to the engine, and the way that the train is split in the yard. Lots to contemplate in the near future.
Stay safe
Mike
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David Waite
Western Thunderer
Hi Mike
You have done a superb job, the coaches look magnificent well done.
David.
You have done a superb job, the coaches look magnificent well done.
David.
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
An interesting observation, Mike, and one which has been made previously. Personally I find written instructions easier to understand. Ideally instructions with exploded diagrams and written instructions. My struggle with a JLTRT Royal Scot (currently stalled for a year or more) which utilises exclusively exploded diagrams has been documented on these pages. However I know from conversations that Mickoo of this parish finds proper diagrams much more instructive than the written word. I guess it's down to the way our brains are wired...
Magnificent coaches, by the way!
Brian
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Hi Dave
Yes, I had the same problem with this...sparse details...anywhere. If it weren't for Mr Goddard putting photos of it on this rambling of mine, I'd have been totally guessing. I know there are other volumes of Mr Jenkinson's coach work, but have yet to find them within my budget. Not that I go hunting them that frequently.
Hope you're keeping well.
Mike
Chas Levin
Western Thunderer
Very neat work Mike, they look superb!
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
As mentioned in post 370, I went to test some of the stock that has featured in this 'work bench'. And as usual I swapped loco's to the Std class 4 tank.
I am really encouraged to say that the test was a complete success. It did have its incidents with stock falling in the water on the first couple of passes around the layout. This was down to the couplings being too stiff. This isn't surprising as I spray the stock with couplings in place. So after some extremely strong words and a drop of loosening oil (some WD40 that I carry with me, that has been sprayed into a small jar). And after a few more runs round the layout - nothing fell over, or even looked like failing. It all ran for over an hour without a problem. I'd call that a success.
As usual there is a video on Utube to show this, but putting the link here seems a little self serving.
Anyway, one happy camper and I can move onto other projects now knowing that I appear to be on the right track...so to speak. It's so satisfying to see stuff actually work as you built it, or rather as it was designed.
Interestingly, an Accurascale syphon G was present and we made a comparison between this and the Ian McDonald kit that I'd built. The kit wins hands down on the level of detail. And this is very noticeable with the hinges of the doors, and the louvering / vent of the sides, this really makes a big difference to look of the model. For me this just proves that RTR is not the sinicure for all, as some seem to think it is. So I shall continue to build my models to the best of my ability, something I absolutely love doing. If you are a small designer of kits...thank you for what you do.
Stay safe
Mike
I am really encouraged to say that the test was a complete success. It did have its incidents with stock falling in the water on the first couple of passes around the layout. This was down to the couplings being too stiff. This isn't surprising as I spray the stock with couplings in place. So after some extremely strong words and a drop of loosening oil (some WD40 that I carry with me, that has been sprayed into a small jar). And after a few more runs round the layout - nothing fell over, or even looked like failing. It all ran for over an hour without a problem. I'd call that a success.
As usual there is a video on Utube to show this, but putting the link here seems a little self serving.
Anyway, one happy camper and I can move onto other projects now knowing that I appear to be on the right track...so to speak. It's so satisfying to see stuff actually work as you built it, or rather as it was designed.
Interestingly, an Accurascale syphon G was present and we made a comparison between this and the Ian McDonald kit that I'd built. The kit wins hands down on the level of detail. And this is very noticeable with the hinges of the doors, and the louvering / vent of the sides, this really makes a big difference to look of the model. For me this just proves that RTR is not the sinicure for all, as some seem to think it is. So I shall continue to build my models to the best of my ability, something I absolutely love doing. If you are a small designer of kits...thank you for what you do.
Stay safe
Mike
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Having read the rubbish above - I’ve realised that I didn’t answer my own question regarding couplings.
Yes. I can couple up.
No. I can’t uncouple without de-railing a pile of wagons. My eyesight and unsteady hands have seen to that.
So, now I need to find a coupling that I can use in the yard. I’m leaning towards AJ’s. But never having formed these, it would be another learning curve.
Dinghams are out (too big) as are Sprat & Winkle - no more double shuffling. There must be others types? What do you use?
Stay safe
Mike
Yes. I can couple up.
No. I can’t uncouple without de-railing a pile of wagons. My eyesight and unsteady hands have seen to that.
So, now I need to find a coupling that I can use in the yard. I’m leaning towards AJ’s. But never having formed these, it would be another learning curve.
Dinghams are out (too big) as are Sprat & Winkle - no more double shuffling. There must be others types? What do you use?
Stay safe
Mike
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Chas Levin
Western Thunderer
Hey Mike,
1. You didn't write rubbish!
2. I use ordinary Hornby-type tension lock which I'm sure isn't any help for you, but my heart goes out!
My eyesight is certiainly already showing signs; hands still pretty steady but hey - it's only Wednesday!
1. You didn't write rubbish!
2. I use ordinary Hornby-type tension lock which I'm sure isn't any help for you, but my heart goes out!
My eyesight is certiainly already showing signs; hands still pretty steady but hey - it's only Wednesday!
paulc
Western Thunderer
Hi Mike , can you be self serving and let me know the YouTube site name so i can have a look .
Cheers Paul