NewportRod
Western Thunderer
Mike, I'll happily bend some AJ couplers up for you if you want to try some.
Mike G's Workspace.
- Thread starter Mike Garwood
- Start date
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Rod
Not only do I need how to bend them up but also how and where to fix them on the wagons...
Mike
NewportRod
Western Thunderer
Mike
I'm sure we can work that out together.
R
I'm sure we can work that out together.
R
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
My wife decided to have the weekend off and went to Amroth in West Wales with her sister for the weekend. By 11:00 hrs I'd finished the obligatory duties and set about some proper work. The body of a 16t min had been sitting on my workbench for a couple of years, so I decided that it was about time that I built the chassis for it. Rumney Models chassis to the fore...8 hours later...
If I'd had the buffers in stock it would be totally done, an order has gone to Mr Franks for the appropriate items. Runs off the edge of my desk of it's own accord. It really is a testament to the design work that a sprung, all detailed dancing chassis can be done in a short space of time.
Having finished this late evening, I started to think ahead, what next? If the 43xx had been here that would have been started. Despite my reservations I decided to crack on with Mr Finney's 51xx. Having looked at the diagrams, for probably the hundredth time, I decided to build it as it was set out in these. Time will tell if this is a wise choice.
So the state of play as of 21:00.
As I've said before the chassis on this had been completed a good while back.
As you would expect, everything fits without any fiddling. The steps on the rear have a very unique design to attach to the half etched footplate. There are lots of rivet details that need to be pressed out, some are completely pointless because unless you have the model in your hand you are never going to see them and when viewed from a distance when the engine is moving, definitely won't see them.
Tomorrow morning will see the shell of the sides and bunker go on as well as some castings at the smokebox saddle area. I know about the horrible shape at the front of the footplate. I'll have to rectify that, not quiet sure how...
Isn't it amazing the amount of fun you can have when theres no buzzing in your ears?
Stay safe.
Mike
If I'd had the buffers in stock it would be totally done, an order has gone to Mr Franks for the appropriate items. Runs off the edge of my desk of it's own accord. It really is a testament to the design work that a sprung, all detailed dancing chassis can be done in a short space of time.
Having finished this late evening, I started to think ahead, what next? If the 43xx had been here that would have been started. Despite my reservations I decided to crack on with Mr Finney's 51xx. Having looked at the diagrams, for probably the hundredth time, I decided to build it as it was set out in these. Time will tell if this is a wise choice.
So the state of play as of 21:00.
As I've said before the chassis on this had been completed a good while back.
As you would expect, everything fits without any fiddling. The steps on the rear have a very unique design to attach to the half etched footplate. There are lots of rivet details that need to be pressed out, some are completely pointless because unless you have the model in your hand you are never going to see them and when viewed from a distance when the engine is moving, definitely won't see them.
Tomorrow morning will see the shell of the sides and bunker go on as well as some castings at the smokebox saddle area. I know about the horrible shape at the front of the footplate. I'll have to rectify that, not quiet sure how...
Isn't it amazing the amount of fun you can have when theres no buzzing in your ears?
Stay safe.
Mike
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Having fixed the footplate problem, instead of resembling the start of a hump back bridge, it now looks like it belongs to a railway engine. I took about one mil, may be more, with a slitting disk. Then I resoldered the the front of the footplate to the former (which most of the half etches attach to). This still left a significant gap, there was nothing for it but to fill the gap with the dreaded 224 degree solder and then file it back. I'd already lost a row of rivets in using the slitting disk but I figured this was a small price to pay for a good footplate shape. Filing and cleaning the mess up was a real PIA.
If you've never used 224, it's great for filling gaps on badly fitting pieces. It doesn't 'flow' like 145 or 180. To get to attach quickly I turned the heat up as high as it would go - 450 degrees. Not the best recovery I've ever made from a cock up.
This wasn't the only stuff I sorted today, Sanding gear mechs (which won't ever be seen, once the smokebox goes on!) Buffers, front and back and some castings. Not a lot to show for about 6 hours work. And looking at this picture, still some cleaning up to do.
There are a lot of pieces to go on in front of splasher but I can't make any sense of how the parts fit, very frustrating. Back to looking at photos and trying to work out what is what and where it goes.
SWMBO returns Tuesday, so updates and work will slow considerably.
Stay safe
Mike
If you've never used 224, it's great for filling gaps on badly fitting pieces. It doesn't 'flow' like 145 or 180. To get to attach quickly I turned the heat up as high as it would go - 450 degrees. Not the best recovery I've ever made from a cock up.
This wasn't the only stuff I sorted today, Sanding gear mechs (which won't ever be seen, once the smokebox goes on!) Buffers, front and back and some castings. Not a lot to show for about 6 hours work. And looking at this picture, still some cleaning up to do.
There are a lot of pieces to go on in front of splasher but I can't make any sense of how the parts fit, very frustrating. Back to looking at photos and trying to work out what is what and where it goes.
SWMBO returns Tuesday, so updates and work will slow considerably.
Stay safe
Mike
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
This evenings update...
Fitted the front steps and the injectors on both sides. The 'cages / bones' have not been soldered on, they are resting - just like the Norwegian Blue - on top of the footplate The bunker floor has also gone in, this is the bit that allows the 'cage' to be sited.
Before applying solder I need to make sure that these 'cages' are the right height before putting the lovely half etched sides on. As to the mystery parts that I cannot place...I have a plan. So it's really starting to take shape.
Just off to get some flowers from the local garage...
Stay safe
Mike
Fitted the front steps and the injectors on both sides. The 'cages / bones' have not been soldered on, they are resting - just like the Norwegian Blue - on top of the footplate The bunker floor has also gone in, this is the bit that allows the 'cage' to be sited.
Before applying solder I need to make sure that these 'cages' are the right height before putting the lovely half etched sides on. As to the mystery parts that I cannot place...I have a plan. So it's really starting to take shape.
Just off to get some flowers from the local garage...
Stay safe
Mike
Chas Levin
Western Thunderer
Mike, can I please ask, why did you use 224 degree solder (rather than 188 or even 145) for that footplate work a couple of posts back?
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Hi Chas
For the simple reason, it doesn't flow. You have to work the solder to get it to spread and run. So you can dump small amounts without it disappearing, it will just stays in place. You can add more to it without it running. It's just hard work to remove what you don't need and get a decent finish.
Others probably have better solutions than mine, but this join needed strength. I suppose I could have used a filler or some sort of steel padding. But this was what I thought of once I'd removed the slither of etch.
Mike
For the simple reason, it doesn't flow. You have to work the solder to get it to spread and run. So you can dump small amounts without it disappearing, it will just stays in place. You can add more to it without it running. It's just hard work to remove what you don't need and get a decent finish.
Others probably have better solutions than mine, but this join needed strength. I suppose I could have used a filler or some sort of steel padding. But this was what I thought of once I'd removed the slither of etch.
Mike
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Chas Levin
Western Thunderer
Ohhh: of course! I read your comment that it doesn't flow in your original post but completely missed the point of what you wre saying: I thought you were complaining that it doesn't flow and therefore required extra work, not that it's not flowing makes it better! I'll have to try some, because like you I prefer to use solder to fill.
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
The cages are now soldered on and my mind has turned to thinking about the forming of the curves - at the water tank end and the bunker end. When I built the MM 45xx, this wasn't a problem as I soldered some tube to the footplate and the when the sides went on I merely bent the side around the tube. The bunker end this problem didn't exist.
So a solution has been tried and tested and works really well. Unfortunately, that cannot be done on the 51xx. I decided to put the right sized tube between the cage ends, solder them in place and then bend some thin N/S to shape and solder these around the protruding tube.
Something like this...
The soldered on ends that over lap the cage have been filed down so as not to show a bulge in the end when soldered in place. Basically I've created curved surface to act as a former for the overlay.
And in some really good news the tax man owes me money...do I tell the wife?
The stuff I ordered from LMS has arrived today so I shall fit the buffers at some stage this evening.
Stay safe
Mike
So a solution has been tried and tested and works really well. Unfortunately, that cannot be done on the 51xx. I decided to put the right sized tube between the cage ends, solder them in place and then bend some thin N/S to shape and solder these around the protruding tube.
Something like this...
The soldered on ends that over lap the cage have been filed down so as not to show a bulge in the end when soldered in place. Basically I've created curved surface to act as a former for the overlay.
And in some really good news the tax man owes me money...do I tell the wife?
The stuff I ordered from LMS has arrived today so I shall fit the buffers at some stage this evening.
Stay safe
Mike
Chas Levin
Western Thunderer
Nice! Kitchen's are rubbish: stick with the kits idea...
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Work continues at a snails pace on the 51xx. I'll post an update when there's some significant progress. In the meantime....I picked up the 43xx. It has some Keen Maygib wheels, which are very nice, but they don't have the crankpins. Having tried fleabay, does anyone know if these are still available? or even better, does anyone have a set they'd be willing to part with? If you do - please pm me.
Stay safe
Mike
Stay safe
Mike
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Hi Dave
I've only had a peak at the wheels and they appear to have a much bigger 'hole' for the crank pins. I suspect that Gibson or Ultrascale crank pins would fall straight thru.
Looking forward to seeing you on the 15/08. Bring something that I can drool over please
. I shall bring the wheels with me and you can see what I mean. The 43xx isn't going to be built for a while.regards
Mike
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
It's been a while...progress continues on the build at a much slower pace than I'd have liked. Having been roped into the 'tidy up' the garden gang and I've actually had to do something this time, having got away with it for the last 36 years of our marriage! Anyway...
Do you remember the post where I said that everything fitted as it should? I spoke too soon.
The problems (so far) have been the cylinders, slippers and slide bars. Not to mention the cross heads! or the cab floor. But in good news - the smoke box, boiler and firebox have all been made up, or at least rounded into shape (my thanks to Morgan Gilbert for doing the hard work for the smoke box and boiler). The firebox has been completed. The springs have been added to the chassis - more problems there. The rear of the chassis has a radial truck, the promoted solution is a single steel wire for placement and swing. No, no and thrice no! But a solution hasn't presented itself...yet. Mark Humphries - I'm grateful to Mark for the photos he allowed me to take of his (very nice) completed model. The photos have allowed me to place the castings and which ones to use - has outlined the solution he came to using a sprung rubbing plate accessed from the spacer above. I need to understand how this works before I go down this route.
The cylinders don't fit the chassis, width wise. Some care has been taken to file them wider so that the centre line to the pistons has not been compromised. Next problem, slide bars.
The slide bars in the instructions clearly show a double lamination being pushed through the frame of the cylinders. There isn't a cat in hells chance that that can be done. The solution has been to take the cusp off the inside lamination - this being the one that the slippers will ride on - and then with a 0.5mm drill in an electric drill to widen the outer edge of the etch. This was a case of little and try often. So a single lamination has been put in place. The other lamination will have to be cut to length and then the half etch - used to attach the G hangers - will be added. Very frustrating.
The cross heads and slippers. Perhaps I was being a bit dim - wouldn't be the first time - but I really had to think this through. The solution was a simple one in the end. Blacken the ends of the connecting rod. This way solder would not flood the joint and stop the rod from flexing in the cross head.
So this is where I am.
I should also mention that the tubes used to represent the steam chests are not cut to size and will have to be filled to size and the ends need to be as flat as possible to attach the ends. Lets keep the cab floor for another time...this really is a very challenging kit.
The 16t min is now in primer and awaits SWMBO to disappear for the evening to get it painted. No luck yet.
Stay safe
Mike
Do you remember the post where I said that everything fitted as it should? I spoke too soon.
The problems (so far) have been the cylinders, slippers and slide bars. Not to mention the cross heads! or the cab floor. But in good news - the smoke box, boiler and firebox have all been made up, or at least rounded into shape (my thanks to Morgan Gilbert for doing the hard work for the smoke box and boiler). The firebox has been completed. The springs have been added to the chassis - more problems there. The rear of the chassis has a radial truck, the promoted solution is a single steel wire for placement and swing. No, no and thrice no! But a solution hasn't presented itself...yet. Mark Humphries - I'm grateful to Mark for the photos he allowed me to take of his (very nice) completed model. The photos have allowed me to place the castings and which ones to use - has outlined the solution he came to using a sprung rubbing plate accessed from the spacer above. I need to understand how this works before I go down this route.
The cylinders don't fit the chassis, width wise. Some care has been taken to file them wider so that the centre line to the pistons has not been compromised. Next problem, slide bars.
The slide bars in the instructions clearly show a double lamination being pushed through the frame of the cylinders. There isn't a cat in hells chance that that can be done. The solution has been to take the cusp off the inside lamination - this being the one that the slippers will ride on - and then with a 0.5mm drill in an electric drill to widen the outer edge of the etch. This was a case of little and try often. So a single lamination has been put in place. The other lamination will have to be cut to length and then the half etch - used to attach the G hangers - will be added. Very frustrating.
The cross heads and slippers. Perhaps I was being a bit dim - wouldn't be the first time - but I really had to think this through. The solution was a simple one in the end. Blacken the ends of the connecting rod. This way solder would not flood the joint and stop the rod from flexing in the cross head.
So this is where I am.
I should also mention that the tubes used to represent the steam chests are not cut to size and will have to be filled to size and the ends need to be as flat as possible to attach the ends. Lets keep the cab floor for another time...this really is a very challenging kit.
The 16t min is now in primer and awaits SWMBO to disappear for the evening to get it painted. No luck yet.
Stay safe
Mike
SimonT
Western Thunderer
Mike,
try our Finney7 instructions for some advice. Based on a build by our 7mmMick, they may offer some assistance.
www.finney7.co.uk
go to the bottom of the page for the link to the pdf which you can then download.
Simon
try our Finney7 instructions for some advice. Based on a build by our 7mmMick, they may offer some assistance.
GWR 51XX Class Locomotive Churchward 7mm Scale Model Kit
Finney7 7mm scale model locomotive kit for GWR 51XX Churchward class locomotive, historical details, build instructions and kit variations
Simon