Genghis's 7mm Workbench

P A D

P A D

Western Thunderer
Hi David,
No reason why the 12 BA should not be robust enough. As to making the fixings more permanent, I've built quite a few locos with detachable boilers and not found a need to do that.

The build looks good so far. It reminds me of the the D11 I did for Warren Haywood.

Cheers,
Peter
 
G

Genghis

Western Thunderer
With the basic body shell sorted it is time to return to the frames.

First up, fit a torque reaction bracket for the motor-gearbox.

IMG_5091.jpg

Then the pony wheel sliding bearings, brake lever support, put away the big iron and swap for the dainty one to attach the whitemetal castings.

IMG_5092.jpg


IMG_5093.jpg

Off to the office now - bah, humbug! But at least it pays............. But just need to give this a wash first.
 
G

Genghis

Western Thunderer
Work finished earlier than expected so I had another session at the workbench. I made up the coupling and connecting rods with the intention of getting a rolling chassis. I had used the coupling rod etches to check that the axle bearings were in the right place when assembling the frames on the jig so no problems expected. And indeed there were none with the coupling rods and it rolls nicely. However getting the connecting rods in place revealed a rather more fundamental problem: no slidebars and crossheads in the kit!!!! I thought about having strong words with the Gladiator packing department, but she will tell me that she only packs the bits that I picked...................... Anyway they can be fitted later. Hope to get the rest of the frames boxed off tomorrow.

Here we are (boiler just resting in approximately the correct position):

IMG_5094.jpg


(apologies if I am posting too many pictures: I plan to re-write the instructions).
 
G

Genghis

Western Thunderer
Apart from the slidebars, crosshead and con rod assembly the frames are now done, bar the pick-ups which will be fitted after painting.

IMG_5095.jpg


IMG_5096.jpg


IMG_5097.jpg


IMG_5098.jpg

At this point I realised that the pony wheels are now completely captive, which is going to make painting more difficult - sorry Paul.

I have a couple more sessions on the workbench before I fly back. I am hoping to get the cab flooring and roof completed.
 
P A D

P A D

Western Thunderer
Captive trailing wheels. That's evil David. :)
Mr. Moore will have to do some creative masking to get around that.

As to posting too many pictures, it's actually compulsory that you post up to the maximum of 16 images. I'm expecting an image fest in your next post.

Cheers ,
Peter
 
G

Genghis

Western Thunderer
P A D said:
Captive trailing wheels. That's evil David. :)
Mr. Moore will have to do some creative masking to get around that.

As to posting too many pictures, it's actually compulsory that you post up to the maximum of 16 images. I'm expecting an image fest in your next post.

Cheers ,
Peter
Click to expand...
It's particularly evil as the wheels need to be green and lined..................
 
G

Genghis

Western Thunderer
It doesn't look like much got done today, but I am pleased with progress.

IMG_5101.jpg

I've managed to fit the piano front without soldering it to the smokebox, so the boiler is still detachable. Paul Moore may have to suffer with trapped pony wheels, so a detachable boiler is the least I can offer! I've also drilled out the location holes for handrail knobs, dome and chimney. The chimney hole needs considerable enlargement but my tool to do that is at home so that is a job for next week. I have also prepared the cab roof and fitted the steps. Tomorrow will get the glue out for some of the whitemetal detailing bits.
 
G

Genghis

Western Thunderer
So back with the comforts of home, the Gladiator kit packing is complete and I have been able to pick up the building works.

The big brake van just needed a brake shoe. Simple.

IMG_5111.jpg


The OCT took longer than expected as it suffered some damage in transit but is now ready.

IMG_5112.jpg


Fortunately the Standard 5 was unharmed and has now had the final bits fitted.

IMG_5113.jpg


IMG_5114.jpg


IMG_5115.jpg

So today it was back to the Jersey Lily. At 09:00 this morning I confidently expected to have the chassis completed and make progress - perhaps even complete - the body this afternoon. Well at 19:00 I still have the sandpipes to fit...........

On Saturday I had spent a couple of hours with the crossheads and slidebars getting a nice smooth sliding fit. The first job planned for this morning was to fit the con rods. The kit provides steel rivets and a suggestion to glue the rivet into the crosshead. I thought that a better solution would be to drill and tap the crosshead 14BA. The crossheads are cast in this peculiar composition of nickel silver that is next to impossible to drill (I am in the process of moving all nickel silver castings to another supplier) but I only broke one 0.8mm drill so I thought that was a win. Next up was to get my high quality 14BA tap and form the thread. Disaster! I dropped the assembly with the tap in it and the end of the tap broke off in the crosshead. I checked the price of a replacement - £64.30 plus P&P - ouch! So next job is to get another crosshead from the stores and match that to the slidebars. Next problem: the slitting disc broke as I used it to release the casting. It was my last one. So out with the saw. I broke the expensive Vallorbe blade. Now at this point I am beginning to think that a day in bed is a better option, but I carried on. Then with the crosshead nicely fettled I decided I just needed to tweak the angle of the head to the piston rod. You have guessed it: the rod broke off, so it is back to the stores and dress another crosshead.

Now some better news: there was enough left of the broken taper tap to thread the two crossheads and I managed to solder the screw in place without soldering up the con rod. So pick ups fitted and the only thing left on the frames now are the sand pipes.

IMG_5116.jpg
 
G

Genghis

Western Thunderer
P A D said:
Bloody hell David, 64 quid for a 14BA tap! Was it gold plated? :D
Click to expand...
Actually half price:

BA taps | The Tap & Die Co

BA taps 0BA 1BA 2BA 3BA 4BA 5BA 6BA 7BA 8BA 9BA 10BA 11BA 12BA 13BA 14BA 15BA 16BA tap in taper second bottom plug Excellent 1st quality
www.tap-die.com
Ian@StEnochs said:
£11.00 for a taper tap and tapping and clearance drills at Expo tools.

78818 14BA Tap - Taper

www.expotools.com www.expotools.com
Click to expand...
Well that's a cheaper alternative!

I think that the one I had was not HSS but an upmarket alternative. HSS will be good enough for most applications, but possibly not for the Gladiator diamond hardness nickel silver!!
 
G

Genghis

Western Thunderer
It's been a while since I posted anything, but to show that I haven't been totally lazy, here's the current build, a Gladiator K1.

IMG_5477.jpg


The instructions for the loco leave something to be desired, so I have been taking many photos ready for inclusion in an instruction rewrite. The original instructions had the front end attached to the frames, but I have taken the more traditional approach and built them onto the footplate. I have also worked out a better way of securing the body to the frames, which at the same time permits the boiler to be dismounted for painting. The only serious issue is that the cylinder wrappers are full thickness nickel silver and forming to shape was a nightmare. On the positive side I had a rolling chassis first time the rods were on. Cylinders are not yet secured and will be angled as necessary.

David
 
G

Genghis

Western Thunderer
Jersey Lily ready for painting. Very early version, so no mudhole doors, smooth smokebox. Not coupled to the tender in these views.

Hmm: file size too big. Need to check the limits. Only 750kB thought that was OK.
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Genghis said:
Jersey Lily ready for painting. Very early version, so no mudhole doors, smooth smokebox. Not coupled to the tender in these views.

Hmm: file size too big. Need to check the limits. Only 750kB thought that was OK.
Click to expand...
I think the limit might be 500kb and the site will auto size down to 1500x960..ish so no point uploading 3000x2000 images.

I set a jpg compression ration of about 25-30% and the pictures come out fine detail wise.
 
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