With an hour or so to spare this evening, I decided to make a (brief) start on track scenics i.e. the ash surface between adjacent tracks and their edges. To this end, I’m using the residue/remains of a barbecue which I’d salvaged a couple of years ago for the purpose.
Now, I have to admit that apart from a trial with the odd section of track, I’ve never ballasted a layout before, thus had decided to take things slowly, so that in the event it all going awry, there wouldn’t be too much much clearing up to do before making a fresh start. I’m trusting that by adopting this glacial approach, I can also record the process to the benefit of one or two kind members who’ve expressed an interest in this aspect of modelling (or serve as a warning to look elsewhere for guidance!).
First a look at some of the ‘tools/materials’ I’ll be using.
To the right in the Tupperware box is the raw barbecue remnants, which are far too course for the purpose, so a small amount is transferred to an earthenware pot and crushed using an ornamental ‘cork’, the metal ball at the base I found ideal for the purpose, and which can be seen to the top left of the picture. The refined material is then transferred to a tin lid via a tea strainer to ensure its as fine as I can make it, and which can be seen to the left of the picture:
The tracks adjacent to the area to be treated were masked off and a suitable amount of neat Pva transferred to a palette:
Tests had shown that to apply the glue in a 50:50 mix with water via a pipette as per ballasting, rendered the ash too tough to sand to a finer appearance (the ash being a little too granular even its finer form, if left, for the purpose), the process being a little easier to achieve if the glue was applied first and the residue sprinkled on. The thinner coat of residue left behind with this method after the loose material at the surface was hoovered off, also helped achieve a finer and more unified appearance than using the ballasting method as described.
I then applied the glue, again as described, and began sprinkling on the ash residue with the small medicine spoon shown. However, the spread was too wide, so a more controlled applier was adopted in the form of some folded paper into which the residue was spooned, and then sprinkled on:
Only a short section was applied at a time to ensure the glue didn’t go off:
……….after which the ash was tamped down gently with a finger to ensure good adhesion, and then the masking tape removed:
I’ll let this dry, then on my next visit I’ll hoover off the loose material on the top and give it a light sanding. Then I’ll inspect the outcome to see if it’s achieved the same results as my tests.
I’ll let you know how it went, either way.
jonte
.) this was very interesting although I shall require less diesel gunk and more steam loco oil gunk.........
. It's the same story but with different charactors....
!
, I’m very much influenced by photos of the Fairford branch and couldn’t help noticing the similarities with Paul’s results, which saves me having to reinvent the wheel somewhat.
).
) - the two oils were quite different in that respect. We used to call diesel oil 'stinky' in days long gone. Like I said, it's all variations on a theme and the help and guidance provided by our fellows on WT is fantastic.
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