Thanks Richard I'll aquire some soonest, silly qeustion but I take it it can be removed with a backing on it then cut to the suitable width and stuck on? Also will it take any heat at all or is it preferable to make it the last job before painting?
Cheers Mick
I cut off a strip - backing sheet 'n all - about 2 inches longer than I need.
This is taped to a cutting mat, then strips of the appropriate width cut through the copper with a new scalpel.
Each strip is gently teased off. You can't peel it like normal tape as, being metal, it will crinkle.
That makes it quite tricky to use, as you have to try to minimise the bending eg under handrails.
You will get marks in it. I use a pice of slightly rounded plastic card to stroke them out and to ensure adhesion.
It will take heat - I used the microflame on the firebox to attach the castings - but I try to minimise the abuse I give it. I attach it as late on in the modelling process as I can.
Incidentally, that on the Brit has been on for about 14 years, obviously not secured with paint, and as you can see, it is still in fine condition.
2 massive advantages. 1) its pretty quick to put on, and no cleaning up. 2) If you get it wrong, rip it off and start again, with no faffing about trying to remove soldered bands. I initially came up with the idea when trying to put boiler bands on a resin firebox. I'd tried gluing plastic card but that was a mess, tape didn't seem too durable if put on as part of the build, so metal tape seemed a wortwhile punt.
Cheers
Richard
to the New Dark Side... just how on earth you get all that metal spaghetti to work properly is surely some kind of witchcraft or Dark Art..??!??
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