7mm Dikitriki's Dark side: A WD 2-8-0
- Thread starter Dikitriki
- Start date
Jordan
Mid-Western Thunderer
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi Alcazar
It is an ABC mini with a Maxon motor. It is virtually noiseless, and what I particularly like about them, especially for older prototypes, is that you can drive the rear axle with the motor vertical in the firebox, and the gearbox and final drive do not extend above the sideframes. This of course means that the cab floor can be fitted without any problems across the top of the frames.
Richard
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
AdamF
Western Thunderer
7mmMick
Western Thunderer
Lovely work as usual Richard. Surely she's nearly finished now? Will the smokebox door be the dart type and which particuler example is this ? This thread and the ' other ' one on the ' other ' site are nicely saved as I have one of these in the to do pile. It's an early George Norton one though so i'm not particularly looking forward to the saddle tank rolling 
Here's a favourate picture of mine showing two possibles for me to model;
Picture is again courtesy of Mick Nicholoson
ATB Mick
Here's a favourate picture of mine showing two possibles for me to model;Picture is again courtesy of Mick Nicholoson
ATB Mick
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi Mick
It is nearly finished. The last main task is the firebox backhead, and then final detail. The smokebox has dogs rather than a dart. I haven't honed in on the number yet - apart from the smokebox door, it could be any member of the class! I shall go through my Oldham Loop books to find a suitable number.
One other issue that's been sorted is pick-ups. I didn't know how to do the leading 2 axles on one side (the other side is shorted out), not wanting to obscure the inside valve gear, and not having room anyway, but Pugsley's 37 pickups seem to fit the bill, and they can be on the outside of the chassis tucked under the valence.
The real problem I have had over the last year is that while I am working on the layout, I do not have any time to build stock, which is what I really want to do (much as I am enjoying building Heyside) so it's an either/or - which is why my postings are spasmodic.
Regards
Richard
It is nearly finished. The last main task is the firebox backhead, and then final detail. The smokebox has dogs rather than a dart. I haven't honed in on the number yet - apart from the smokebox door, it could be any member of the class! I shall go through my Oldham Loop books to find a suitable number.
One other issue that's been sorted is pick-ups. I didn't know how to do the leading 2 axles on one side (the other side is shorted out), not wanting to obscure the inside valve gear, and not having room anyway, but Pugsley's 37 pickups seem to fit the bill, and they can be on the outside of the chassis tucked under the valence.
The real problem I have had over the last year is that while I am working on the layout, I do not have any time to build stock, which is what I really want to do (much as I am enjoying building Heyside) so it's an either/or - which is why my postings are spasmodic.
Regards
Richard
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Random reply time for those who cannot work out the question.
I wish that you had posted this photo to t'other place when you were writing about DJ... for I see that you have added an extra lamination on the inner face of the connecting rod boss. We could not work out why we had so much clearance with our A4 (an S7 model with AGH wheels) until Jonpaul (LNER-JP herein) provided dimensions of the rod bosses from SNG at the NYMR.
So on the remake of Merlin's motion the coupling rods have two laminations end to end and one lamination on each boss face. The connecting rods have three laminations end to end and one lamination on each boss face (well, actually... after our dismal attempt to get the connecting rods of correct thickness Paul Penn-Sayers stepped into the breech and made new connecting rods from steel flats - a super job).
I can see how you assemble the motion on the first side... assuming that you rotate a driving wheel whilst holding a return crank. Now what happens when you assemble the second side?
BTW - if DJ's motion has been taken down then does this signal the end of the running-in period and hence DJ is going to get painted at alst?
thank you and regards, Graham
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Hi Richard, never mind not knowing how to attach this pic to a pm. I dont even know what the pic is
although its nicely soldered/built up
Rob.
although its nicely soldered/built upRob.
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Ah, it is a trick photo!
[1] without the kettle part in shot this could be some samples from a scissor's grinder convention, and
[2] this work of art is upside-down.
Actually, this is the motion bracket and valve motion from a kettle which could be painted Blue
.
Phill Dyson
Western Thunderer
Just click 'Upload a File' below your text on a PM to insert an image Richard
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Ah very nice
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi
I'm still attacking my shelf queens. What happens with me is that I come across a matter requiring further research (maybe where I don't have the resources) or am unhappy with the components I have (but there is nothing better available) so the model gets put a side until things are resolved. That may take years. It's not a lack of enthusiasm (OK, with the ACE V3 it is), more a directional uncertainty. That sounds like a phrase from the Yes Minister book of obfuscation!
Such is the case with my Brit. This was a Jim Harris kit, from the days when if you wanted a Brit, this was it. Oh boy, was it a fight. However I reckon I more or less got the basic shape right, but some of the castings left something to be desired. The loco ran under DC - it had the honour of being the first loco round Heyside, but it's only in the last year or so that I had finally gathered together all the components needed to turn my ugly duckling into a thoroughbred swan.
I didn't take any before pictures unfortunately, but I have been working on this for the last couple of weeks, rebuilding the front end. The schedule of works so far:
Build new bogie (funnily enough, a different wheelbase to Jim Harris's).
Move cylinders back 0.5mm.
Fit new slidebars and crossheads.
Fit new cylinder ends.
Reposition bogie mounting post.
Dismantle and rebuild ABC gearbox (so I can get chassis into body more easily and create room for chip)
Fit new combination lever
Only once I was happy with all of these was I going to turn my attention to the detail on the loco. Well, the valve gear was reassembled last night, and the loco was chipped and tested this morning, and I am pleased to say we are good to go.
Here are some photos of the current state of play.
Stacks to do, but I can see a dim light at the end of the tunnel. Unless I find I ballsed up in my original research, the Brit will be Robin Hood, and will take its place on the parcels train.
Richard
I'm still attacking my shelf queens. What happens with me is that I come across a matter requiring further research (maybe where I don't have the resources) or am unhappy with the components I have (but there is nothing better available) so the model gets put a side until things are resolved. That may take years. It's not a lack of enthusiasm (OK, with the ACE V3 it is), more a directional uncertainty. That sounds like a phrase from the Yes Minister book of obfuscation!
Such is the case with my Brit. This was a Jim Harris kit, from the days when if you wanted a Brit, this was it. Oh boy, was it a fight. However I reckon I more or less got the basic shape right, but some of the castings left something to be desired. The loco ran under DC - it had the honour of being the first loco round Heyside, but it's only in the last year or so that I had finally gathered together all the components needed to turn my ugly duckling into a thoroughbred swan.
I didn't take any before pictures unfortunately, but I have been working on this for the last couple of weeks, rebuilding the front end. The schedule of works so far:
Build new bogie (funnily enough, a different wheelbase to Jim Harris's).
Move cylinders back 0.5mm.
Fit new slidebars and crossheads.
Fit new cylinder ends.
Reposition bogie mounting post.
Dismantle and rebuild ABC gearbox (so I can get chassis into body more easily and create room for chip)
Fit new combination lever
Only once I was happy with all of these was I going to turn my attention to the detail on the loco. Well, the valve gear was reassembled last night, and the loco was chipped and tested this morning, and I am pleased to say we are good to go.
Here are some photos of the current state of play.
Stacks to do, but I can see a dim light at the end of the tunnel. Unless I find I ballsed up in my original research, the Brit will be Robin Hood, and will take its place on the parcels train.
Richard
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
There are 4 Brit kits around.
Acme - ex Jim Harris/Big 4/Acorn.
Andy Beaton - ex MMP
Severn Models - upgraded Jim Harris
DJH.
Acme I wouldn't touch.
The Severn models one is as much hard work as the Jim Harris was, and while it is an upgrade - the etchings are better - the castings still let it down.
The Andy Beaton one has the best castings - I'm using them to upgrade my Brit - but the kit was designed some 20+ years ago and some of the etchings are (prototypically) flimsy. Not easy to get a substantial join between the resin firebox and the cab.
The DJH one has a one piece smokebox/boiler/firebox in pewter which is a timesaver if you like that sort of thing, but the slidebars are useless, and the underframe detail is crap.
So, in short, there isn't a perfect kit for the Brit about (in my opinion). Perhaps MOK will oblige eventually. If I was doing one now, I would buy the DJH one and be prepared to spend about £100 on after sales castings.
Richard
Acme - ex Jim Harris/Big 4/Acorn.
Andy Beaton - ex MMP
Severn Models - upgraded Jim Harris
DJH.
Acme I wouldn't touch.
The Severn models one is as much hard work as the Jim Harris was, and while it is an upgrade - the etchings are better - the castings still let it down.
The Andy Beaton one has the best castings - I'm using them to upgrade my Brit - but the kit was designed some 20+ years ago and some of the etchings are (prototypically) flimsy. Not easy to get a substantial join between the resin firebox and the cab.
The DJH one has a one piece smokebox/boiler/firebox in pewter which is a timesaver if you like that sort of thing, but the slidebars are useless, and the underframe detail is crap.
So, in short, there isn't a perfect kit for the Brit about (in my opinion). Perhaps MOK will oblige eventually. If I was doing one now, I would buy the DJH one and be prepared to spend about £100 on after sales castings.
Richard
