Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
I did have to go to Lidl ... out of milk and bread
Lidl - shouldn't it be Milch und Brot
Mickoo's American Modelling Empire
- Thread starter mickoo
- Start date
Lidl - shouldn't it be Milch und Brot
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Finally finished all the big carpentry bits in the bat bunker, on the left a nice 2 x 12' work bench to spread bits out all over the place, on the right the 'test track' in the form of an L shaped 7 x 17' affair.
The rear 5' ish section is 24" wide, the longer 17' section is still open to debate, the current temporary ply sheet is 30" wide and is the planned layout width, but it does tend to restrict the aisle. The support carcass is 24" wide and will remain open framed to allow work on the baseboard modules above.
The section behind me to the right has to reduce to 24" to allow the door to open, my fault really, but a planned design fault as I opted for the largest single door you can get, reasoning that it'd be easier to maneuver modules in and out of the bigger door than a narrower standard one.
Straight module edges are easy to build but don't flow so I may opt for the long edge to be bowed, starting at the door with 24", mid length 30" and far end back to 24" but with a curved fillet with the short section if that makes sense.
There is no room for a fiddle yard inside, however the modules will be a minimum of 4" deep and I need 5" clearance over a high cube so it may be possible to add a (tight hidden) dive under at the far end and come back down the left, the far end was always planned to be the higher end of the layout so the U turn back would easily pass Under the industry planned up there.
You could add a fiddle yard to the top left hand end for shows and a switch about where the FBOX car is would send you straight on to that fiddle yard. I will also plan an exit behind me on the right for another possible fiddle yard. The U turn back is very 'train set' but it might be possible to hide it with a scenic break of some sort.
The big sheet of ply shows how much expanse the main section has, the MD15DC and three box cars show how quick that real estate gets gobbled up, it's going to be hard to practice less is more.
The rear 5' ish section is 24" wide, the longer 17' section is still open to debate, the current temporary ply sheet is 30" wide and is the planned layout width, but it does tend to restrict the aisle. The support carcass is 24" wide and will remain open framed to allow work on the baseboard modules above.
The section behind me to the right has to reduce to 24" to allow the door to open, my fault really, but a planned design fault as I opted for the largest single door you can get, reasoning that it'd be easier to maneuver modules in and out of the bigger door than a narrower standard one.
Straight module edges are easy to build but don't flow so I may opt for the long edge to be bowed, starting at the door with 24", mid length 30" and far end back to 24" but with a curved fillet with the short section if that makes sense.
There is no room for a fiddle yard inside, however the modules will be a minimum of 4" deep and I need 5" clearance over a high cube so it may be possible to add a (tight hidden) dive under at the far end and come back down the left, the far end was always planned to be the higher end of the layout so the U turn back would easily pass Under the industry planned up there.
You could add a fiddle yard to the top left hand end for shows and a switch about where the FBOX car is would send you straight on to that fiddle yard. I will also plan an exit behind me on the right for another possible fiddle yard. The U turn back is very 'train set' but it might be possible to hide it with a scenic break of some sort.
The big sheet of ply shows how much expanse the main section has, the MD15DC and three box cars show how quick that real estate gets gobbled up, it's going to be hard to practice less is more.
Lionel does several variations of these extruded covered hoppers - the ones I‘ve concentrated on are the four bay round hatch pressure discharge cars for granular plastics lading, but even there they’ve done both straight pneumatic gates and the slightly odd convertible gates that are shown on this car. They tart up nicely with P:48 trucks and Kadee couplers (I’m an oddball P:48 modeler, I don’t use Protocraft couplers) after you add some Archer weld lines.The only readily available through sill covered hopper is the Atlas Trinity 5161 cu. ft. covered hopper. Pecos River Brass also imported the same car, but the Atlas is a very nice car and of course much cheaper than the brass import.
I was going to do the same conversion with the Atlas 5161, cutting it down from 3-bay to 2-bay. But in the end I decided that there were too many details that would need fixing to make it worth while. I'm part way along with development of etched art work instead. Being held up by the lack of certain prototype data. Plus general procrastination. But blaming the former is better for my self-esteem.I'll be looking to sell spare 5161 project fodder at the upcoming show.
Lionel makes any number of ACF Centerflow cars, in various sizes and hopper counts. The run of the mill cars are chunky, not any better than the Weaver cars. However, there is a small slice of the Lionel portfolio that is done to a higher standard, and some examples of the ACF cars were part of that. The core of the cars is extruded aluminum, and the details are typically separately applied. I have some of these as well.
View attachment 158564
View attachment 158565
View attachment 158566
Overall, very nice cars. There are still a few niggles, the walkways aren't quite right, the outlet gates are an unusual type specific to certain commodities, that sort of thing. Obviously the couplers and wheel sets will need changing as well.
Most of the other nicer Lionel cars were of common earlier Pullman Standard types, boxcars, gondolas, open hoppers, and covered hoppers. They shared the same characteristics as the Centerflow hoppers, namely separately applied detailing.
I know that MTH also produced some cars with separate grabs and so on, but I've never bought any or actually seen any in person. But then I haven't looked that hard, I tend to avoid most MTH product.
(I recognize many of the names in this thread from years ago on RMweb - I haven’t been active there in some time. I’ll be doing an introduction post, but for now you can blame @Scale7JB and @richard carr for leaving the door open here for me to sneak in - we met IRL for the first time at the March Meet in the USA last weekend.)
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Hi Ken
Great to see that you have found your way here.
Richard
Great to see that you have found your way here.
Richard
Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen
Western Thunderer
Ken,
Great to see you here, its always good to see modelling of railways other than British. I have quite a weakness for D&RG Western narrow gauge.
atb
Tim
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen
Western Thunderer
Beautiful Ian, I've been lucky enough to travel on the Cumbres and Toltec and Durango and Silverton several times. Both are fantastic experiences.
Tim
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Okay some more progress on the Roco/Atlas power truck.
I'm moving this over here as the end game has changed somewhat, initially designed as replacement to fit the Red Caboose GP-9 it has morphed (still has a way to go) into a project to generate a low floor Blomberg power brick for other EMD Blomberg fitted engines, cross hairs targeted specifically at GP38 and GP40 engines. If the mountain (RTR) wont come to Mickoo then Mickoo is beedin well go to have to walk there himself (scratch build). Like other projects it'll wander in and out of focus but hopefully still keep moving forward. Once the brick concept is settled then there's little reason not to adjust the wheel base to suit other trucks and change side frames/fixings.
Currently it's still focused on the GP-9 and the new etched chassis in development and the current rendition is Mk V, Mk VI is in the printer and should arrive into this world around midnight.
A recap on the brief is in order, essentially the experiment is to lower the input drive shaft to below the cab floor level, not the engine chassis floor and enable full lit and detailed GP 9 cabs, perhaps with doors open in the hot Cali sun, smog and all. You've got just about 14 mm clearance above the RC GP-9 chassis top plate to clear the underside of the cab floor, but there in lies a twist.
The RC GP-9 sit a fraction too high, the walkway should be 60¼" above the rail head, 31.88 mm in 1:48 (give or take), sadly it sits 33.98 mm above the rail head, you can reduce that but trimming down the bearing button but the lower you go the closer to the truck you get and clearances are already tight down there, much lower and the chassis rails impact the Blomberg side frames.
At left is scale height chassis, at right the stock RC chassis height, it also shows the reduction by 15 mm between drive lines.
In close up the frame cills touch the truck.
For reference the real deal, copyright, me , my first ever GP40-2 in the bag
Clearly there is a mismatch somewhere, either the RC cill is too deep (it's not...not enough to matter), the Blomberg side frame is too high (possibly but it looks centered on the wheelsets) or the side frame is just too deep (not checked against drawings as yet). You could easily replicate the daylight appearance on the dummy powered version.
The above truck is a newer generation than the Roco/Atlas ones, four brakes shoes, two cylinders and rubber blocks on the spring plank, I have my eye on a new 3D side frame at some point to fit the power brick.
Even at the scale height the new low line truck has just over 1 mm clearance below the cab floor.
If we jack it up to RC chassis height then the gap increases to 3 mm.
Frankly I'll take either as a bloody good win with the caveat that the center fixing screw/nut is going to have to be quite slim in height, or devise another way of retaining the truck; I have been thinking feverishly in the background of another way to retain the truck, it'll come but in the meantime this will suffice.
Now the technical part.
The new truck retains the input shaft, worm, bearings and inverted metal clip (important to keep the bearings in place, it also provides location in for the top bearing button on the RC chassis. It's quite slack so the worm has a lot of play when it first torques up, might be a good thing but might be a bit jerky. I have the option to take that out and carefully close up the resin end walls to seat the bearings closer to the worm, maybe on Mk VII. Then I can lower the top plate and perhaps give me another mm or two clearance below the cab floor.
The small bubble at the front center is now history, that's part of the Roco/Atlas fixing, you just cut off that tab in the floor plate and rill new fixing holes. The 1st stage gear is the 32T retained from the Roco/Atlas truck, the idlers are test resin 25T gears, as I said the other day they work but their durability is questionable, I'll be looking to change the resin to a more robust nylon type long term.
The first gear shaft is 3 mm tube, simply because I don't have any rod, I found that the original thin wall bearing fixing here wasn't man enough and the shaft flexed under load, the idlers didn't though. To that end I extended the centering turret (it's just a flange on the original truck) all the way down to the base unit, increasing the bearing support from 2 mm to 6 mm.
So that's where we're at with the Mk V.
Mk VI has a few other tweaks. The area behind the worm is rather thin and prone to perhaps flexing or stressing, especially as the inner face is concave to accommodate the worm gear, this is where failing to look over the parapet traps you in a design trench, blindly following the thought that you have to follow Roco/Atlas. There is no need for the raised section to be that shape at all, Roco/Atlas do it for profit, barest amount of material to achieve the job but I'm not constrained by that.
The solution is to extend the outer faces to thicken the wall where it's thinnest behind the bearing cut out, I also added a bearing pedestal for the 1st gear shaft, belt and braces but that shaft is going no where. The pedestal will be covered by the cover plate and other half of the centering turret.
On the back side the slab shape has as a bulge added, this increases the wall thickness behind the worm gear cavity and should make the whole upper end much more rigid, probably much too much, but hey, it's fun.
I finally managed to wrestle (almost nil) the sagging or curling up of the ends like stale bread. The part was printing fine on the build plate and even post cleaning had only small curl, easily sorted by sanding the base flat; the big problem came with the curing, 50 mins at 55° just curled the part, now this is Forms approved method of curing, clearly junk. In a off hand experiment I placed Mk V outside in the sun, four hours later all cured and still remarkable flat
The next step is to remove the Roco/Atlas motor mount and work out how to lower the motor, even with a hole cut in the floor I don't think I can get 15 mm, I can get 5-6 mm by removing the mount and making new ones but I might be able to go lower. The closer I get to the truck drive line the better and I think I can get quite close.
One big advantage of the low line power brick is not just under the cab but under the radiator cubicle, I don't think it'll go below a tunnel motor screen, but that's a different three axle truck to the input might be able to juggled around a bit, I have some ideas. Either way on GP's the benefit at the rear end is a new lower shelf to mount speakers or DCC bits and bobs, rater than having to cram them above the motor somewhere.
I'll probably work something on the Mk II chassis etch to place a table over the low line truck to accommodate DCC fitting.
More later!
I'm moving this over here as the end game has changed somewhat, initially designed as replacement to fit the Red Caboose GP-9 it has morphed (still has a way to go) into a project to generate a low floor Blomberg power brick for other EMD Blomberg fitted engines, cross hairs targeted specifically at GP38 and GP40 engines. If the mountain (RTR) wont come to Mickoo then Mickoo is beedin well go to have to walk there himself (scratch build). Like other projects it'll wander in and out of focus but hopefully still keep moving forward. Once the brick concept is settled then there's little reason not to adjust the wheel base to suit other trucks and change side frames/fixings.
Currently it's still focused on the GP-9 and the new etched chassis in development and the current rendition is Mk V, Mk VI is in the printer and should arrive into this world around midnight.
A recap on the brief is in order, essentially the experiment is to lower the input drive shaft to below the cab floor level, not the engine chassis floor and enable full lit and detailed GP 9 cabs, perhaps with doors open in the hot Cali sun, smog and all. You've got just about 14 mm clearance above the RC GP-9 chassis top plate to clear the underside of the cab floor, but there in lies a twist.
The RC GP-9 sit a fraction too high, the walkway should be 60¼" above the rail head, 31.88 mm in 1:48 (give or take), sadly it sits 33.98 mm above the rail head, you can reduce that but trimming down the bearing button but the lower you go the closer to the truck you get and clearances are already tight down there, much lower and the chassis rails impact the Blomberg side frames.
At left is scale height chassis, at right the stock RC chassis height, it also shows the reduction by 15 mm between drive lines.
In close up the frame cills touch the truck.
For reference the real deal, copyright, me , my first ever GP40-2 in the bag
Clearly there is a mismatch somewhere, either the RC cill is too deep (it's not...not enough to matter), the Blomberg side frame is too high (possibly but it looks centered on the wheelsets) or the side frame is just too deep (not checked against drawings as yet). You could easily replicate the daylight appearance on the dummy powered version.
The above truck is a newer generation than the Roco/Atlas ones, four brakes shoes, two cylinders and rubber blocks on the spring plank, I have my eye on a new 3D side frame at some point to fit the power brick.
Even at the scale height the new low line truck has just over 1 mm clearance below the cab floor.
If we jack it up to RC chassis height then the gap increases to 3 mm.
Frankly I'll take either as a bloody good win with the caveat that the center fixing screw/nut is going to have to be quite slim in height, or devise another way of retaining the truck; I have been thinking feverishly in the background of another way to retain the truck, it'll come but in the meantime this will suffice.
Now the technical part.
The new truck retains the input shaft, worm, bearings and inverted metal clip (important to keep the bearings in place, it also provides location in for the top bearing button on the RC chassis. It's quite slack so the worm has a lot of play when it first torques up, might be a good thing but might be a bit jerky. I have the option to take that out and carefully close up the resin end walls to seat the bearings closer to the worm, maybe on Mk VII. Then I can lower the top plate and perhaps give me another mm or two clearance below the cab floor.
The small bubble at the front center is now history, that's part of the Roco/Atlas fixing, you just cut off that tab in the floor plate and rill new fixing holes. The 1st stage gear is the 32T retained from the Roco/Atlas truck, the idlers are test resin 25T gears, as I said the other day they work but their durability is questionable, I'll be looking to change the resin to a more robust nylon type long term.
The first gear shaft is 3 mm tube, simply because I don't have any rod, I found that the original thin wall bearing fixing here wasn't man enough and the shaft flexed under load, the idlers didn't though. To that end I extended the centering turret (it's just a flange on the original truck) all the way down to the base unit, increasing the bearing support from 2 mm to 6 mm.
So that's where we're at with the Mk V.
Mk VI has a few other tweaks. The area behind the worm is rather thin and prone to perhaps flexing or stressing, especially as the inner face is concave to accommodate the worm gear, this is where failing to look over the parapet traps you in a design trench, blindly following the thought that you have to follow Roco/Atlas. There is no need for the raised section to be that shape at all, Roco/Atlas do it for profit, barest amount of material to achieve the job but I'm not constrained by that.
The solution is to extend the outer faces to thicken the wall where it's thinnest behind the bearing cut out, I also added a bearing pedestal for the 1st gear shaft, belt and braces but that shaft is going no where. The pedestal will be covered by the cover plate and other half of the centering turret.
On the back side the slab shape has as a bulge added, this increases the wall thickness behind the worm gear cavity and should make the whole upper end much more rigid, probably much too much, but hey, it's fun.
I finally managed to wrestle (almost nil) the sagging or curling up of the ends like stale bread. The part was printing fine on the build plate and even post cleaning had only small curl, easily sorted by sanding the base flat; the big problem came with the curing, 50 mins at 55° just curled the part, now this is Forms approved method of curing, clearly junk. In a off hand experiment I placed Mk V outside in the sun, four hours later all cured and still remarkable flat
The next step is to remove the Roco/Atlas motor mount and work out how to lower the motor, even with a hole cut in the floor I don't think I can get 15 mm, I can get 5-6 mm by removing the mount and making new ones but I might be able to go lower. The closer I get to the truck drive line the better and I think I can get quite close.
One big advantage of the low line power brick is not just under the cab but under the radiator cubicle, I don't think it'll go below a tunnel motor screen, but that's a different three axle truck to the input might be able to juggled around a bit, I have some ideas. Either way on GP's the benefit at the rear end is a new lower shelf to mount speakers or DCC bits and bobs, rater than having to cram them above the motor somewhere.
I'll probably work something on the Mk II chassis etch to place a table over the low line truck to accommodate DCC fitting.
More later!
Overseer
Western Thunderer
I had a feeling you might head towards drawing your own side frames. The Roco side frames look like they measured a truck out of a loco - no weight on it so springs at full extension. That could account for the additional couple of mm and could help with fitting oversized model flanges in. @Rob R will be interested in a new Blomberg 3d model, based on his recent post.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
That could well explain why they sit higher when you line the axle box up with the axle center. A new sideframe would daylight some of the more blocky aspects.
However, my immediate truck priority is a Barber 100T S2 if I'm honest, I need one or two and the RTR offerings are leaving me cold at the moment.
SimonT
Western Thunderer
I'm with Fraser.
Should be in the printer by lunch
Simon
PS Preform 3.24 is worth a look. The touch points are now thin rectangles that come off cleaner. You can get them right up to the edge without the bulge of the previous spheres. Unfortunately the old spheres show in the support edit mode but you can get used to working with them.
Should be in the printer by lunch
Simon
PS Preform 3.24 is worth a look. The touch points are now thin rectangles that come off cleaner. You can get them right up to the edge without the bulge of the previous spheres. Unfortunately the old spheres show in the support edit mode but you can get used to working with them.
Overseer
Western Thunderer
Not much help for O gauge but Protocraft do a 100t roller bearing Barber S2 in P48 which I think looks good. They also do the 70t one. If you produce your own you could replicate the hollow parts of the castings which should be visible in the openings in the sideframes.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Not sure which lunchtime, today, possibly notI'm with Fraser.
View attachment 161659
Should be in the printer by lunch
Simon
PS Preform 3.24 is worth a look. The touch points are now thin rectangles that come off cleaner. You can get them right up to the edge without the bulge of the previous spheres. Unfortunately the old spheres show in the support edit mode but you can get used to working with them.
Your image shows it up well, I did toy with moving the axle box up (new one) but then the brakes won't line up and this and that won't line up so modifying the Roco/Atlas side frame is a dead end, leading to inevitable roll your own.
One thing I want to add is the inside fillet to the horn guides, rarely modeled (RTR) as most trucks have a recess here to take over thick wheels.
I did some trials with Jims SW1500 side frame he drew and it showed finding the correct orientation to reduce artifacts and retain shape was bleedin hard work.
I'll start fleshing out the new side frame over the next few days, possibly altering the method of attachment and thus a new Mk VIII power brick. I'll certainly have to change the end arrangements to add the dropped section transom beams. Rotating bearing caps would be nice but maybe a step too far and I'm not sure the Form is capable of printing the HYATT text on the older style either.
I've just got 3.24, those supports came in around 3.21 as default I think, but they were way back to 3.18 or something as beta supports, they certainly come away easier. The new supports are only available at 50 and 100 microns, I've been using 160 microns for the blocks (primarily for speed) as there's no detail to worry about and the supports are still the legacy shape.
I most certainly do not like the 'collect quality control crash data' nag box popping up every time I open Preform for goodness sake! The only option I can see to make it go away forever is to click agree, if you click no it keeps popping up every time you open Preform.
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Jordan
Mid-Western Thunderer
I don't suppose you're going to model the pop bottle wedged in one of the holes, either..??!!
Tin hat on, sprinting for cover...
Big Train James
Western Thunderer
A few comments:Not sure which lunchtime, today, possibly not
Your image shows it up well, I did toy with moving the axle box up (new one) but then the brakes won't line up and this and that won't line up so modifying the Roco/Atlas side frame is a dead end, leading to inevitable roll your own.
One thing I want to add is the inside fillet to the horn guides, rarely modeled (RTR) as most trucks have a recess here to take over thick wheels........
The brakes don't necessarily maintain their position relative to the wheel on the prototype. It's something I never thought about before. But being pinned to the side frame means of course they move up and down compared to the axle centerline, as the suspension works. I'm sure they are positioned in some generic "ideal" position to begin with, but must also be able to react. There's actually a fair amount of play in the brake rigging, I wouldn't be surprised if the brake heads rotate to a degree once the pads come in contact with the wheel. I'd be more concerned that the pads appeared essentially concentric with the wheel surface. Of course, as stated, fixing one thing leads to fixing another, the end result being simpler to start from scratch.
Inside face of the pedestal is usually not rendered because of the undercut it would create. It would never work for mass-produced diecast or injection molded plastic parts. It's the same reason the slack adjuster straps end up the way they are. Capturing that sort of missing depth and relief was one of the reasons I pursued my Flexicoil trucks, but it's not an apples to apples comparison. My goal was a very limited number of trucks for my personal use, so I could pursue some dysfunctional stuff and also plan on direct burn-out of masters to get the detail I wanted. I anguished for a long time over how to split the sideframe apart to facilitate molds and "mass" production, and finally gave up. There's just an awful lot going on.
Rotating bearing caps, they're era dependent, at least for the EMD trucks. I would submit that exposed bearings would be very rare on EMD trucks until probably the 90's or so, and probably later. I'd tie it indirectly to the move to reduced emissions, which in turn has lead to a proliferation of heavy rebuild projects. In other words, I wouldn't pursue exposed bearings unless modeling an era encompassing the past 20 years at most.
That being said, it can be done with some effort. It's much simpler with a drfive where the axles are actually suspended in the journals, a la the P&D Blombergs or many other brass trucks. For any of the mass produced RTR models, like Atlas, where the axle ends are flush with the wheel face and captured in a single truck block, there's quite a bit more work involved. Step one would be switching to shouldered axles. Step two would involve altering the sideframes in a fairly precise way, to allow the axle end to pass through and rotate freely, without binding.
For those in the Facebook 2 rail and P48 group, you may remember such a modification done several years ago to an Atlas gp60 by Jay Criswell. It ultimately worked, but it sounded to me like it was a tricky conversion.
Jim
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mickoo
Western Thunderer
Tempting isn't itI don't suppose you're going to model the pop bottle wedged in one of the holes, either..??!!
Tin hat on, sprinting for cover...
as are the bigger packs of fresh water bottles you often see plonked on the nose to keep them cool.
Big Train James
Western Thunderer
Meant to ask, what is the plan for the motor position, in light of the lowered drive line. Are you going to lower the motor 15mm so the drive line is all in the same axis, or will you employ a transmission of sorts to drop down from the stock postion.
I really do think that lowering the motor is a better solution. More work of course, but also much more opportunity for the giant Tang Band speaker.
I really do think that lowering the motor is a better solution. More work of course, but also much more opportunity for the giant Tang Band speaker.
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mickoo
Western Thunderer
James, I'll lower the motor mount, I might not get the full 15 mm even with a hole in the floor, but certainly 10 mm is possible.
The removal of the metal plate around the primary worm has allowed that area to be modified, strengthened and lowered by a further 1.5 mm, the Mk VII test block is basking in the sun curing nicely at the moment, this evening will be test assembly time and if all good, sign off.
I'm going to explore the dropped motor set up on the etched chassis first and then translate any motor support mounts back to the RC chassis, not that I'll need them, my path will head down the etched chassis path and will be my go to bed plate for all future models.
The plan is to develop and migrate the etched GP-9 chassis through the ages to GP-30, GP-35 and finally GP-40. The length will change as will the cill profile, jacking pad plates/positions and webs/gussets.
I already know the MkII chassis will need a motor hole and now that I have full control of the power brick profile I should be able to reduce the width of the longitudinal cills, though they might already be at near scale width on the RC chassis of which I have cloned the dimensions.
Rob R
Western Thunderer
Truck sideframe wise something like this (but suitable for home printing without the trans atlantic hassle etc)
Smoky Mountain Truck Sideframes
I suspect the price ($79 a pair for the Blombergs) is fair for what it is but rapidly goes out of budget for 3 sets and probably won't fit my chosen motor bogie.
Sorry for the slight off track....
Smoky Mountain Truck Sideframes
I suspect the price ($79 a pair for the Blombergs) is fair for what it is but rapidly goes out of budget for 3 sets and probably won't fit my chosen motor bogie.
Sorry for the slight off track....
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Back to the bat cave, very nearly there now, just the reveals to cover with boarding and the roof edging to complete, ran out of time today so next available slot is in a couple of weeks, then it'll be time to turn to the garden and make that all good.
There will be a small decked area at the entrance to fill that area where the pallet and wood currently is and match the main decking behind me.
There will be a small decked area at the entrance to fill that area where the pallet and wood currently is and match the main decking behind me.