Hayfields work bench (an average modelers attempts at loco building)
- Thread starter Hayfield1
- Start date
Hayfield1
Western Thunderer
This is how I left the Springside GWR 45xx back in March last year, I think a certain Mr Wynne distracted me with both improvements to Templot 3D 7mm plug track, then inventing 7mm 3D COT (chairs on timbers) track. I am at some time soon going to get back printing 3D 7mm track as I am booked to be at the Scale 7 Albury meet
Anyway now trying to get back up to speed with this loco, read a few of the later posts and get to grips with the instructions. More later
Hayfield1
Western Thunderer
I stopped the build as there was an issue with the broken slide bars, for some reason the G bracket had not been fitted and was missing. Presumably the reason the slide bas broke was that the G bracket not being there. Until the missing part(s) were ordered nothing could commence
I glued the bracket with epoxy glue, I glued the unbroken slide bar to the cylinder, then soldered the G arm to the bracket and was then able to solder the broken slide bar together. Also I filed the nut down on the crosshead
Crosshead both fitted and tested
Well half way there
John
Hayfield1
Western Thunderer
After watching football I tackled the right hand side. on reflection I should have ordered two sets of slide bars, as In the end it was quite difficult to repair and fit them, infact the first attempt was awful. Though in the back of my mind I think I may have to scratch build the G hanger, slide bars, crosshead as in my mind whitemetal is the wrong material for longevity. Whilst doing that a metal G bracket would be safer as well as a more sturdy connecting rod.
Still it is what it is and all I have at the moment
Well the loco run but is a tad stiff. I am hoping a turn on the roiling road will free things up. But its now working and would never rush anywhere
John
Hayfield1
Western Thunderer
Phil
Thanks for the advice, I think the kit is of its time, but its not just the slide bars, its the connecting rods, crossheads (I have clanged the piston rods from whitemetal to brass rod), the G frames and the G frame bracket.
Anyway its working and I need to source a 7mm scale plan
John
simond
Western Thunderer
My Springside 45 has the original w/m slide bars, crossheads and G brackets. I replaced the piston rods with NS wire.
there‘s almost no load at all on them (provided something doesn’t get caught) so w/m is fine from a strength point of view
And it does gazillions of miles as engine bearings, provided it’s well oiled, it won’t wear out!
I recall there’s a set of plans in GWRJ, though you’d have to look at the online index to know which one.
there‘s almost no load at all on them (provided something doesn’t get caught) so w/m is fine from a strength point of view
And it does gazillions of miles as engine bearings, provided it’s well oiled, it won’t wear out!
I recall there’s a set of plans in GWRJ, though you’d have to look at the online index to know which one.
Hayfield1
Western Thunderer
Simond
Perhaps my judgement has been coloured by my experience suffered by the original builder (probably not using the the G hanger bracket ) and building 4mm scale K's kits. I guess I could order some replacement parts from Springside, or actually get down to some scratch building ?
Well it did not take me long to read the instructions as far as the work done (2 lines down in the second paragraph) However the amount of work done was quite considerable, as all the main parts have been built well.
In hindsight I did prematurely fit the lower rear cab wall, hopefully just made fitting the cab seats a little harder, teaches me to read and understand the instructions first
Still I am looking forward to getting stuck in
John
Hayfield1
Western Thunderer
What a couple of days, started yesterday with eBay stopped working on my phone, tried all the workarounds on the web without any luck, until I found something on RMweb stating that as Apple had stopped supporting iPhone 7's my data and financials were at risk. Then I was alerted to the missing rivets of the Beatie well tank
As it happens I have been talking for the last year if not two about changing phones so the afternoon was spent buying a new phone which arrived this morning. Then the fun started, unlike my laptop even though I have my stuff on the cloud it was not as easy as changing my laptop as several programs needed sorting out, so it was finally set up and working this afternoon.
Next up I phoned Phil of Hobby Holidays who is now happily living in Norfolk, I ordered the wire and strips I need for both the Adams Radial tank, pipework for the well tank and strips for the SR utility van. Then as he is planning a garden railway chatted about Templot COT track
So after Escape to the Country, it was down to some work on the Springside 45xx. I thought I had ordered all the missing parts, how wrong was I. As I forgot to order the cab rear top piece and wrongly assumed the tank extensions were fitted. I think I need to double check all the parts again to see if any more are missing.
I guess I can get on with the body detailing which still needs doing and also assemble the firebox backhead
Anyway its not as if I have nothing to do and somehow I need to work out what sheets of rivets I need for the well tank.
John
As it happens I have been talking for the last year if not two about changing phones so the afternoon was spent buying a new phone which arrived this morning. Then the fun started, unlike my laptop even though I have my stuff on the cloud it was not as easy as changing my laptop as several programs needed sorting out, so it was finally set up and working this afternoon.
Next up I phoned Phil of Hobby Holidays who is now happily living in Norfolk, I ordered the wire and strips I need for both the Adams Radial tank, pipework for the well tank and strips for the SR utility van. Then as he is planning a garden railway chatted about Templot COT track
So after Escape to the Country, it was down to some work on the Springside 45xx. I thought I had ordered all the missing parts, how wrong was I. As I forgot to order the cab rear top piece and wrongly assumed the tank extensions were fitted. I think I need to double check all the parts again to see if any more are missing.
I guess I can get on with the body detailing which still needs doing and also assemble the firebox backhead
Anyway its not as if I have nothing to do and somehow I need to work out what sheets of rivets I need for the well tank.
John
martin_wynne
Western Thunderer
@Hayfield1
Hi John,
If you are at a loose end, you can now try making some 4mm COT track. I have just released the next version of Templot.
See: Templot5 and plug track - progress discussions
Ask on Templot Club if you need more.
cheers,
Martin.
Hayfield1
Western Thunderer
@Hayfield1
Hi John,
If you are at a loose end, you can now try making some 4mm COT track. I have just released the next version of Templot.
See: Templot5 and plug track - progress discussions
Ask on Templot Club if you need more.
cheers,
Martin.
Martin
Just when I thought I could rest
Looking forward to it and so soon after an earlier post on TC suggesting there was still a lot to finish prior to the release
martin_wynne
Western Thunderer
@Hayfield1
Hi John,
There's still a lot to do. But I've run out of steam for a while. I have released it as-is to give me a bit of a break.
cheers,
Martin.
Stephen Freeman
Western Thunderer
Good luck with the backhead (Springside 45xx), if I remember correctly the original instructions showed 2 different diagrams, I think I have a few photos of the one I built but as they were pre-digital, once I have found them they will probably need scanning.
Hayfield1
Western Thunderer
After sorting out my daily chores, I phoned Springside to order the missing cab back I decided to sort out a couple of bags of castings into area groups
These are the cab details excluding the firebox backhead
Tank top castings
Smokebox area,
These are the different areas plus a couple of odd bits, sadly one part sprung out of the tweezers not to be found again and was added to my order
It seems that the builder jumped the gun with fitting some of the main parts early and I may still be missing a few bits from the chassis., anyway its all a lot clearer and there are things I can do whilst I am waiting for the missing parts. Some parts may be a a bit more difficult to fit and I am a bit unsure about things like the oil boxes which have fine wires representing thin pipes
Still firstly I have used the camera on my new phone for the first time, more importantly I am more familiar with the small parts
John
These are the cab details excluding the firebox backhead
Tank top castings
Smokebox area,
These are the different areas plus a couple of odd bits, sadly one part sprung out of the tweezers not to be found again and was added to my order
It seems that the builder jumped the gun with fitting some of the main parts early and I may still be missing a few bits from the chassis., anyway its all a lot clearer and there are things I can do whilst I am waiting for the missing parts. Some parts may be a a bit more difficult to fit and I am a bit unsure about things like the oil boxes which have fine wires representing thin pipes
Still firstly I have used the camera on my new phone for the first time, more importantly I am more familiar with the small parts
John
Hayfield1
Western Thunderer
Stephen
Thank you for the offer, as it happens I have two sets of instructions for the backhead
The first set comprises of 2 A3 sheets, one showing the cast parts, the second the pipework
The second is on an A4 sheet showing the parts and parts list, but no pipework
I don't know if it will help anyone else. The other thing is do I fit the copper wire before or after painting ?
Plus I brought a Springside backhead set for a GWR 14xx and this is my earlier attempt at building it
Pipework not fitted yet
Instructions for the 14xx, I do have a set (or two) of paper dial faces which came with it
Hayfield1
Western Thunderer
Spent yesterday morning trying to tweak the (slow) running a bit, especially in reverse. I think it just needs a good running in session
so in the afternoon I spent some time to populate the firebox etc with details, this shot prior to fettling the hard cast valve cover. Should I delay fitting till after painting ?
After getting bored with the evenings football I fettled the safety valve cover and funnel. Starting to look a bit more like a loco
This is going to be a pain in fitting the sand gear and wheel splashers. Should have been done prior to the boiler being fitted
Still these things happen when buying a part built kit and penance for the great saving when brought
John
so in the afternoon I spent some time to populate the firebox etc with details, this shot prior to fettling the hard cast valve cover. Should I delay fitting till after painting ?
After getting bored with the evenings football I fettled the safety valve cover and funnel. Starting to look a bit more like a loco
This is going to be a pain in fitting the sand gear and wheel splashers. Should have been done prior to the boiler being fitted
Still these things happen when buying a part built kit and penance for the great saving when brought
John
timbowales
Western Thunderer
Re fitting the safety valve cover, surely it depends on whether it is going to be painted green or not?
Stephen Freeman
Western Thunderer
Thorny question, if it is to be brass, it needs polishing and probably made removable. Painted or not depends on period and if later how far it was based from Swindon! Further away the depot was more likely to polish the cover. You have to be careful with covers as there were generally two types, short and tall, the short being later and more likely to be polished. As the kit comes with two (at least it used to be) number plates, one (P&D R) fitted with the tall type, the one on SVR short type and at least in preservation polished. For some reason I choose the P&DR one.
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Stephen Freeman
Western Thunderer
I have found a scan of the loco, not yet found the original, which would be better.