Hayfields work bench (an average modelers attempts at loco building)

Hayfield1

Western Thunderer
Phil

Thanks but most of the work was done by someone else

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Parts 112 were missing, I found the piston which had been built, but was missing most of the piston rod, the brake crank had also been broken off and lost

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A piece of brass rod was fitted and a piece of scrap whitemetal found and cut to length

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Painted dull dirty black, once dry will merge. May be both the wrong size and shape in places. But wont be seen anyway

Now to rewrite my shopping list for Alley Pally

This is how I left the Springside GWR 45xx back in March last year, I think a certain Mr Wynne distracted me with both improvements to Templot 3D 7mm plug track, then inventing 7mm 3D COT (chairs on timbers) track. I am at some time soon going to get back printing 3D 7mm track as I am booked to be at the Scale 7 Albury meet

Anyway now trying to get back up to speed with this loco, read a few of the later posts and get to grips with the instructions. More later
 

Hayfield1

Western Thunderer
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I stopped the build as there was an issue with the broken slide bars, for some reason the G bracket had not been fitted and was missing. Presumably the reason the slide bas broke was that the G bracket not being there. Until the missing part(s) were ordered nothing could commence

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I glued the bracket with epoxy glue, I glued the unbroken slide bar to the cylinder, then soldered the G arm to the bracket and was then able to solder the broken slide bar together. Also I filed the nut down on the crosshead

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Crosshead both fitted and tested

Well half way there

John
 

Hayfield1

Western Thunderer
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After watching football I tackled the right hand side. on reflection I should have ordered two sets of slide bars, as In the end it was quite difficult to repair and fit them, infact the first attempt was awful. Though in the back of my mind I think I may have to scratch build the G hanger, slide bars, crosshead as in my mind whitemetal is the wrong material for longevity. Whilst doing that a metal G bracket would be safer as well as a more sturdy connecting rod.

Still it is what it is and all I have at the moment

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Well the loco run but is a tad stiff. I am hoping a turn on the roiling road will free things up. But its now working and would never rush anywhere

John
 

Phil O

Western Thunderer
John,

I would agree that whitemetal slide bars are not the best material for them. I would make them from Nickelsilver. Measure the slots in the crosshead for the best thickness for the Nickelsilver, you need a nice sliding fit.
 

Hayfield1

Western Thunderer
John,

I would agree that whitemetal slide bars are not the best material for them. I would make them from Nickelsilver. Measure the slots in the crosshead for the best thickness for the Nickelsilver, you need a nice sliding fit.

Phil

Thanks for the advice, I think the kit is of its time, but its not just the slide bars, its the connecting rods, crossheads (I have clanged the piston rods from whitemetal to brass rod), the G frames and the G frame bracket.

Anyway its working and I need to source a 7mm scale plan

John
 

simond

Western Thunderer
My Springside 45 has the original w/m slide bars, crossheads and G brackets. I replaced the piston rods with NS wire.

there‘s almost no load at all on them (provided something doesn’t get caught) so w/m is fine from a strength point of view

And it does gazillions of miles as engine bearings, provided it’s well oiled, it won’t wear out!

I recall there’s a set of plans in GWRJ, though you’d have to look at the online index to know which one.
 

Hayfield1

Western Thunderer
My Springside 45 has the original w/m slide bars, crossheads and G brackets. I replaced the piston rods with NS wire.

there‘s almost no load at all on them (provided something doesn’t get caught) so w/m is fine from a strength point of view

And it does gazillions of miles as engine bearings, provided it’s well oiled, it won’t wear out!

I recall there’s a set of plans in GWRJ, though you’d have to look at the online index to know which one.

Simond

Perhaps my judgement has been coloured by my experience suffered by the original builder (probably not using the the G hanger bracket ) and building 4mm scale K's kits. I guess I could order some replacement parts from Springside, or actually get down to some scratch building ?

Well it did not take me long to read the instructions as far as the work done (2 lines down in the second paragraph) However the amount of work done was quite considerable, as all the main parts have been built well.

In hindsight I did prematurely fit the lower rear cab wall, hopefully just made fitting the cab seats a little harder, teaches me to read and understand the instructions first

Still I am looking forward to getting stuck in

John
 
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