Hayfields work bench (an average modelers attempts at loco building)

[Hayfield1]

This is what held up the finishing of the loco, coupling rods, the method in the instructions I found was not very easily achieved, in fact I could not make it work. But after quite a bit of time this morning, I altered the connection between the coupling rods and crossheads and enlarged the gap in the slide bar support to allow the crosshead to slide through the slide bar support, then tested the running

I did speak with Dave Hammersley (owner of Roxey and a very nice chap) about this issue with the crossheads and slide bars, and he said it is of its time. I think in the end I will have to change the crosshead and piston rods as they are made of whitemetal to a hard casting, also the coupling rod is far to thin where it connects to the crosshead.

Its not apparent, but the instructions suggest you use a bent and shortened lace pin soldered to the connecting rod. and I think fit the slide bars at the same time as the crosshead

Well that did not happen and the gaps in the slide bar end supports were too small to slide the crossheads through



I used I think 16ba countersunk bolts and nuts, which just about went through the connecting rods, then soldered the nut to the rod,





I then filed the nut down (that's why I soldered it to the rod) to reduce the size of its profile



I simply followed what I had done on one side to the other and the chassis now runs fine

 

[Hayfield1]

May I ask where you find these?
Cheers Julian

Julian

On further checking the boiler bands did come with the kit, rightly or wrongly phosphor bronze strop was supplied, is it the correct size, I have no idea, but that's what came with it. The kit dates back 5 or 6 years

On the latest kit I brought just before Christmas (Adams Radial) parts 61 to 63 are now not included. I assume they are 0.9 & 0.7 brass wire** and PB strip, also the Well tank included Copper Clad strip to attach pickups. It may be that to keep costs down these extra bits are now not included

I brought a P class loco on Monday so it will be interesting to see what comes with this kit when it arrives. Still I have a box of various sizes of brass wire, looks like it needs to be tidied up

** 2 of both 0.7 & 0.9mm short lengths were in the pack of brass items

John

 

[Phil O]

John,

On persevered locos, I have seen 1/8th inch steel used for the cladding and banding, this equates to 0.07mm in 7mm. I very much doubt that anything thicker would be used. On steam pipe cladding we used 1/16th inch steel or aluminium, depending on the location.

 

[simond]

John,

On persevered locos, I have seen 1/8th inch steel used for the cladding and banding, this equates to 0.7mm in 7mm. I very much doubt that anything thicker would be used. On steam pipe cladding we used 1/16th inch steel or aluminium, depending on the location.

Phil, I think you’ve a decimal place error here. An inch full size is 0.5833mm, so an eighth must be 7/96 = 0.073mm, 73 microns give or take.

 

[Hayfield1]

John,

On persevered locos, I have seen 1/8th inch steel used for the cladding and banding, this equates to 0.07mm in 7mm. I very much doubt that anything thicker would be used. On steam pipe cladding we used 1/16th inch steel or aluminium, depending on the location.

Short of going to a heritage line and measuring I doubt if anyone knows for sure, looking at a Roche 4mm scale drawing its drawn to about .5mm so my 2mm bands are over twice the width required. For my next builds I will get some 0.8 or 1mm strip as thin as I can get it

 

[Hayfield1]

Brake gear fitted and tested, just a few more bits to complete, all hand rails for a start and I need to replace the cab step footplates as they all are damaged and on the cusp of breaking



Several bags of items which at some point will need attaching, the biggest will be finding what type of lamp iron goes where, still almost there

John

 

[Phil O]

Simon,

You're totally correct, I missed the extra 0. Now corrected.

Forgot to push the post reply button, yesterday.

 

[Phil O]

John,

Wizard models do 1.5mm x 5 thou phosphor bronze strip and I think that Alan Gibson may do 1mm wide strip. I have some, but I can't check it until Monday, as it's in the clubroom.

 

[Hayfield1]

Phil

Thanks for the kind offer, I am still waiting for the P class to arrive from Dave (It may be the motor mounts that are causing the delay) It looks like thin strip and long lengths are now not supplied, if so I will phone Hobby Holidays and put in an order, looks like I don't have any soft copper wire so need to put in an order anyway. I looked at my stocks of brass wire and its all set up for 4mm scale, plus I have a couple of etched coach kits and the utility van which will need some lengths of brass wire.

 

[Hayfield1]

Julian

On further checking the boiler bands did come with the kit, rightly or wrongly phosphor bronze strop was supplied, is it the correct size, I have no idea, but that's what came with it. The kit dates back 5 or 6 years

On the latest kit I brought just before Christmas (Adams Radial) parts 61 to 63 are now not included. I assume they are 0.9 & 0.7 brass wire** and PB strip, also the Well tank included Copper Clad strip to attach pickups. It may be that to keep costs down these extra bits are now not included

I brought a P class loco on Monday so it will be interesting to see what comes with this kit when it arrives. Still I have a box of various sizes of brass wire, looks like it needs to be tidied up

** 2 of both 0.7 & 0.9mm short lengths were in the pack of brass items

John

Julian

The Roxey Mouldings P class arrived today, well the instructions stated the kit included 0.7 & 0.9mm brass wire along with 4 PB strips though these I think are for pickups as the boiler bands are cast on the whitemetal boiler. I guess I just assumed they were for use as boiler bands as well as pickups. My advice is buy thinner strip 0.8mm to 1mm. Secondly perhaps have stock of common use items

I will post an update later of the Well Tank as I am wrestling with the hand rails, trying to get the curves correct, trouble is I have no scale plan of the front elevation to follow.

I have also changed my mind on the colour from Holly to the earlier green, Pea?

John

 

[Joe's Garage]

You are building up a lovely collection of locos John.
Cheers Julian

 

[Hayfield1]

You are building up a lovely collection of locos John.

Cheers Julian

Julian

I think I have said I started off wanting a SR/LSWR 0 gauge layout, though I brought much earlier a n Ixon Manning Wardle to test 7mm turnouts, I had got friendly with Dave Hammersley of Roxey Mouldings as he is friendly with Phil of C&L and we looked after his stand when he needed a comfort break. Things moved on a bit when I joined Chelmsford MRC and I started to move over to 7mm scale

I am really a modeler/builder rather than a layout builder/user. And I must say I get a lot of pleasure out of building, neither skillful or rivet counter, plus I enjoy making track, though 3D printed 7mm scale track is taking over from scratch building

Thanks for your interest and as I said earlier Phil who owns Hobby Holidays is the go to place for metal rod and strip

John

 

[Hayfield1]

A bit of a bodged job and I may need a third attempt but all the handrails are all fitted and soldered in place,

I also cut off the excess length of the crankpin bolts and used some thread locking compound to stop the nuts from flying off. just need to paint the coupling and connecting rods a steel colour

I added thread locking compound to the sprung buffer nuts. and noticed from the plan I need to add some sand pipes, not forgetting all the pipework

I have some etched number plates for the loco, they are unpainted. should I fit them no or after painting

My list of what to do seems to grow longer, rather than get shorter

I must admit the loco is a nice one to build especially with its quirky appearance

John

 

[paulc]

View attachment 232153

A bit of a bodged job and I may need a third attempt but all the handrails are all fitted and soldered in place,

I also cut off the excess length of the crankpin bolts and used some thread locking compound to stop the nuts from flying off. just need to paint the coupling and connecting rods a steel colour

I added thread locking compound to the sprung buffer nuts. and noticed from the plan I need to add some sand pipes, not forgetting all the pipework

I have some etched number plates for the loco, they are unpainted. should I fit them no or after painting

My list of what to do seems to grow longer, rather than get shorter

I must admit the loco is a nice one to build especially with its quirky appearance

John

Hi John , fit the plates after painting and you could try using sticky tape for the boiler bands . If the loco is lined then you do the loco colour then the lining on the tape whilst its flat then cut to width , apply it to the boiler and finish with a coat of flat , satin or if you really have to 'gloss' sealer .
How come i can never find these kits when i go looking on Ebay ???????

 

[Hayfield1]

Hi John , fit the plates after painting and you could try using sticky tape for the boiler bands . If the loco is lined then you do the loco colour then the lining on the tape whilst its flat then cut to width , apply it to the boiler and finish with a coat of flat , satin or if you really have to 'gloss' sealer .
How come i can never find these kits when i go looking on Ebay ???????

paulc

Thanks for the advice, especially about boiler bands