Hayfields work bench (an average modelers attempts at loco building)

Paul Tomlinson

Paul Tomlinson

Western Thunderer
John, a couple of observations - the dome appears to me to be too far aft - OK for an A1 but not an A1X (there may be traces of it being originally attached in the correct position) - and the smokebox saddle appears to me to be too far forward (there should be an overhang). Nice to see a kit built Terrier taking shape, though!
 
Hayfield1

Hayfield1

Western Thunderer
Paul Tomlinson said:
John, a couple of observations - the dome appears to me to be too far aft - OK for an A1 but not an A1X (there may be traces of it being originally attached in the correct position) - and the smokebox saddle appears to me to be too far forward (there should be an overhang). Nice to see a kit built Terrier taking shape, though!
Click to expand...

Paul

Thank you very much for taking the time to reply. First up I know nothing much about either the A1 or A1X Homework tonight is to read my Russell's book on SR locos.

According to the plan with the instructions, its in the correct place (A1?),

But I see the bunker extension has been fitted which is not on the plan.

The smokebox saddle according to the same plan is flush

Thanks I will look at my book but please feel free to tell me what's wrong

Thanks again

John
 
Paul Tomlinson

Paul Tomlinson

Western Thunderer
Hayfield1 said:
Paul

Thank you very much for taking the time to reply. First up I know nothing much about either the A1 or A1X Homework tonight is to read my Russell's book on SR locos.

According to the plan with the instructions, its in the correct place (A1?),

But I see the bunker extension has been fitted which is not on the plan.

The smokebox saddle according to the same plan is flush

Thanks I will look at my book but please feel free to tell me what's wrong

Thanks again

John
Click to expand...
John, Hi. There are some useful reference photos in this old thread, which illustrate the points I made - HTH.

4mm - Brighton Works - An EM Terrier

I've decided to spin the Terrier posts out of my general workbench thread - just to provide a bit more focus - the most recent post is here: 4mm - An EM workbench - Open Highs | Page 26 | Western Thunder Anyhow, a quick summary of the current state of play: Gradually, the loco is coming to...
www.westernthunder.co.uk
 
Hayfield1

Hayfield1

Western Thunderer
Paul Tomlinson said:
John, a couple of observations - the dome appears to me to be too far aft - OK for an A1 but not an A1X (there may be traces of it being originally attached in the correct position) - and the smokebox saddle appears to me to be too far forward (there should be an overhang). Nice to see a kit built Terrier taking shape, though!
Click to expand...

Paul

In the box are a set of name and number plates for the ex WCPR / GWR no5 Portishead, other than the placement of the dome which one drawing shows is inline with the fillers another shows the A1X position
 
Hayfield1

Hayfield1

Western Thunderer
Nearly a month since I got back to the Terrier and on Sunday I nearly glued up one of the sprung pickups fitting the internal cylinder covers, which I think are now in the wrong position. Diagram and instructions very un clear

2007.jpeg

Somehow I seemed to free it. As said before clearly the previous builder planed to build the Western, Clevedon and Portishead version, so the only remaining parts seemingly what are required. I will explain the spare step later, but both cab steps now fitted

Anyway wheels back on, crankpins cut and filed pack with a drop of thread lock to secure. Next up will be fitting the sand boxes, these have long whitemetal pipes, which I think I will change to thick brass wire

After lunch I will have a go at fitting the balance weights, and contemplate what to do with the sand boxes

2008.jpeg

I requested a jewelers sheet metal cutting set, Santa was good to me and a set with different blades 2 saws and a jewelers peg arrived. The other Terrier I brought had only 1 cab step (Dave has no spares) so using some scrap whitemetal sheet (K's IoW loco names) I fabricated one using this kits ones as a guild, not perfect but will pass muster and both will be soldered on not glued

Also just before Christmas I ordered Roxey Mouldings Adams Radial Tank which I brought from the proceeds of a 7mm Shedmaster Kit (which donated the wheels) I did not fancy building (I love the weight of whitemetal kits) and a few 4mm items. Now selling off a few more of my kit stash to fund a P class.

Anyway happy new year to you all
 
Joe's Garage

Joe's Garage

Western Thunderer
Well thank you John for a very interesting read of your thread. It is lovely to see these locos rescued from the "electronic Barry Scrapyard" and rebuilt into workable models. (Well there is an e,B,a&y in that title!)
The mention of Flour paper got me to wondering where does that term come from so I Googled it and in good old Wikipedia ways I saw this..

Etymology
The English word flour is originally a variant of the word flower, and both words derive from the Old French fleur or flour, which had the literal meaning "blossom", and a figurative meaning "the finest". The phrase fleur de farine meant "the finest part of the flour", since flour resulted from the elimination of coarse and unwanted matter from the grain during milling. (Copyright to Wikipedia...Flour)

A very happy new year to you too...I would be happy if I was in your position with these finds.
I am still trying to find a 3/4" tram in need of restoration!

All the best
Julian
 
Hayfield1

Hayfield1

Western Thunderer
Julian

Happy new year, thanks for enjoying the thread and thank you for the consideration and effort within the reply

As it happens eBay can be a very worthwhile place for finding items, for some reason there still is some hesitation in buying part built kits, I did not think these kits needed rescuing, not as much as some Springside kits but that's another story

Thanks again

John
 
Hayfield1

Hayfield1

Western Thunderer
A New Years Eve Tale

This was a real basket case of a Springside 48xx part assembled by someone who had not a clue, I gambled by investing just under £90
My parachute was the wheels, motor and gears were worth what I paid, plus the parts would have a value

1038.jpeg

The tank tops were glued/soldered on top of the tank sides and the cab front reduced in width to try and make things fit

1039.jpeg

Another photo showing what had been done, well I guess the builder took the description (tank top) literally

1041.jpeg

Look at the state of it !! All the main parts were there and with kits costing £350 surely I had plenty of room to by the missing or damaged parts

1040.jpeg

The first thing was to buy this de-soldering station £30, £ for £ a great buy and asset especially in 7mm scale, when very carefully used the solder melts over a large area

1047.jpeg

It all came apart and was cleaned up, then an order went in to Springside for over 100 parts, which in the end cost just over £100. Sill my time is free and I have a kit for nearly half price. What's priceless is bringing it back

1071.jpeg

The rebuild has commenced, but a Cornish holiday got in the way, then I got busy track building

The great thing is, whitemetal parts in 7mm scale can take some punishment and in some cases can be repaired

This was a kit rescue, I got stuck on the bunker (designed for gluing, not soldering) but its nearing the top of the pile again

A year later I brought a Springside 45xx, part (well) built, but missing parts. Another £100 was spent obtaining the missing bits, but this time I got it well under half price.

A final happy new year
 

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Hayfield1

Hayfield1

Western Thunderer
The simplest (and cheap) way to de-solder a white metal kit is to drop it in to a saucepan of boiling water.
DavidB said:
The simplest (and cheap) way to de-solder a white metal kit is to drop it in to a saucepan of boiling water.
Click to expand...

David

May well be in the smaller scales, but with large 7mm scale castings (Like tank sides) there is nothing like these hot air de-solder irons are ideal for getting the job done.

My 75w temperature controlled Iron would not touch it,
Being a large lump which would not fit into my old small saucepan, the wife would not let me use the bigger ones
But the hot air iron allowed me to dismantle the kit one item at a time safely

Then I made an error fitting a side to the footplate, a quick warm with the hot air iron allowed the side to simply slide into position

I have a Slaters MR Flatiron part built, the brass sides have been tacked soldered to the footplate, I am certain the hot air iron will again come into its own

Simply like the temperature controlled iron has been a revelation in soldering I wish now I hade brought one of those dual units. But each to their own
 
simond

simond

Western Thunderer
I’ve been there and done it with 16mm scale castings, and a Springside GWR tender castings that I’d put together and was not happy with.

Model in sink, Hot water from tap to pre-heat. Boiling water from kettle to release the joints. Instant kit.

I’m sure the hot air thing is good and may have lots of other uses, but it’s certainly not necessary.
 
Hayfield1

Hayfield1

Western Thunderer
Phil O said:
Happy New Year John.

As David says above, the best way to unsolder whitemetal is boiling water.

Looking forward to some more 7mm COT, next year.
Click to expand...

Phil

Happy new year, yes there will be more COT track, certainly in 7mm track construction I can see no reason to use any other method. Turnouts are both a doddle to make, far more detailed than anything out on the market and so affordable. Martin will get the obtuse crossing chairs done at some point. But I have made a Diamond already and I reckon I could design a slip. The one cavate is with the diamond and slip, some chairs will be fudged. Not a problem for most as they still look far better than anything else, but not 100%. And not one for the average user

But I need a rest from track building

John
 
Hayfield1

Hayfield1

Western Thunderer
simond said:
I’ve been there and done it with 16mm scale castings, and a Springside GWR tender castings that I’d put together and was not happy with.

Model in sink, Hot water from tap to pre-heat. Boiling water from kettle to release the joints. Instant kit.

I’m sure the hot air thing is good and may have lots of other uses, but it’s certainly not necessary.
Click to expand...

Simond

Every thing you say is right, but what it has over the more traditional methods is that rather than running the risk of unsoldering everything, the heat can be focused where its required to un solder (or re-solder) a part without running the risk of unsoldering other parts.

I did not say its necessary, but £ for £ one of my better buys and extremely useful in the workshop

If you get a chance to use one, do or if you are buying a solder station, buy one of the dual solder/de-solder ones

John
 
Joe's Garage

Joe's Garage

Western Thunderer
Hi John
I think there is something very satisfying from rescuing a kit and making good. I am enjoying your finds and as you say your time is yours....your hobby.
All the best
Julian
 
Hayfield1

Hayfield1

Western Thunderer
With the weather being awful I van welcome in the new year with a bit more modeling

2009.jpeg

Sand boxes and vacuum cylinder all the castings were cleaned up, pipework removed and holes drilled for brass rod replacements

2010.jpeg
I must tie up the wiring, sand boxes glued in place, one side at a time. The Roxey instructions are not very precise on the positions of the sand boxes, I used my Dapol Terrier as the guide. As you can see I am not a rivet counter, just build for the enjoyment and as per instructions

Once the sandboxes were nearly set, I removed the chassis from the body, just incase any stray glue attached the chassis to the body

2011.jpeg

I had a 50/50 chance of picking the wrong side for the vac cylinder, I could not work out whether the works drawing was from above or below, no assistance with the Dapol loco as it dose not have one.

It seems the builder both wanted to build the GWR version and removed all surplus parts were removed. With the exception of some tools I have exhausted all the castings.

I need to look at what needs to be finished,
Body needs the hand rails fitting as well as the lamp irons. Will be painted once the warmer weather arrives
Chassis needs painting, before finishing off the brake gear, then fitting the remaining sand tubes etc
 
Hayfield1

Hayfield1

Western Thunderer
2012.jpeg

Whilst I had the soldering iron on I thought I would reattach the steps on my other Roxey Terrier, as I said it only had one rear step, and earlier I said I made the replacement by copying the old one. Below the steps is the rather hand whitemetal sheet from I think a Wills 02. I have a few which I thought might come in handy.

2013.jpeg

Rather than glue them (which had failed before) I cleaned everything up and soldered them

Not the neatest bit of scratch building, but as Roxey has no spares beggars cannot be choosers. A bit of extra detail will disguise them further

2014.jpeg

Back to the Terrier in question, boiler hand rails fitted, only needs excess solder removing
 
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