Elmham Market in EM
- Thread starter James Spooner
- Start date
James Spooner
Western Thunderer
All went well thanks Whizz. The weather today, though, combined with Linda’s lack of tender cab, meant a slightly uncomfortable trip down to Port…
Nigel
James Spooner
Western Thunderer
After a few days on the roster it was time to return home and, having then caught up with tasks at home, I have again turned my attention to the Wickham DMU. I felt more in the mood for doing some metalwork rather than returning to the glazing so dug out my Dremel and a grinding disc and started removing the steps (which don’t match the position of the doors) and the trusses under the steps (which were present on the Derby lightweights but not on the Wickhams). I have managed to remove the extraneous parts from one side and will need to make good the grinding marks with some plastic padding before adding in the new footboards.
The photos show one side still with the full set of castings and the other with the bits removed.
Nigel
The photos show one side still with the full set of castings and the other with the bits removed.
Nigel
Jim smith-wright
Western Thunderer
Great stuff, dunno how I missed this. I'd consider replacing the power bogie though as it seems a shame to do such a good job on the rest of the unit to fill a quarter of the power car with a lump of metal.
This is a derby lightweight chassis fitted with a high level lo-rider
This is a derby lightweight chassis fitted with a high level lo-rider
James Spooner
Western Thunderer
Hi Jim,
Many thanks for your comments and I have slowly been coming around to your way of thinking on the motor bogie. Your comment has prompted me to look at the High Level website but the Lo-rider doesn’t seem to feature there any more. I have emailed High Level to ascertain the position.
Nigel
Dave Holt
Western Thunderer
The Lowrider bogies look to be designed very specifically to suit a couple of Mashima motors. As these are no lomger available, perhaps High Level have withdrawn them because no other motors will fit? Maybe, in time, Chris will modify the design around one of his coreless motors and reintroduce?
Might be wrong on this.
Dave.
Might be wrong on this.
Dave.
James Spooner
Western Thunderer
James Spooner
Western Thunderer
Dave
You are right; they are designed for the Mashima 1420 flat can. I dug one out from my stash before I realised that I couldn’t find the Lo-rider on the High Level website…
Nigel
Jim smith-wright
Western Thunderer
If youve got the mashima for it then it's definitely worth a discussion with Chris about the etches and gears etc.
James Spooner
Western Thunderer
The good news is that High Level have one Lo-rider left and are happy to sell it to me, so I will factor that into the build. I have made progress on the DMBS and all the glazing is cut and glued in. I think the next step is to complete the modifications to the underframe (which, I guess, will now be more extensive with the new motor bogie to be fitted).
Nigel
Nigel
robertm
Western Thunderer
Nigel
You’re making a fabulous job on the Wickham railcar. It makes my efforts on my 7mm Met Camm restoration look really rough. Two questions if I may,
what material are you using for the cab windows and your secret for the snug fit?
what colour did you use for the roof ?
Thanks for any insight
Bob
You’re making a fabulous job on the Wickham railcar. It makes my efforts on my 7mm Met Camm restoration look really rough. Two questions if I may,
what material are you using for the cab windows and your secret for the snug fit?
what colour did you use for the roof ?
Thanks for any insight
Bob
James Spooner
Western Thunderer
Bob,
Many thanks for your kind comments.
In response to your two questions, the window material is 20 thou PETG (often sold for use in dolls houses). It cuts quite easily and is protected on each side by a blue film that can be peeled off when you are ready to fit. The snug fit, I’m afraid, is good old fashioned graft. Cut roughly to shape then sand down with a sanding strip, test and repeat (and repeat…) until it fits. I use Micro Krystal Klear wiped around the inside of the window frames with a cocktail stick to hold it in place. I hadn’t got the patience to do that with the side windows (the sides are etched brass anyway, so much thinner than the 3D printed ends), so just glued the glazing in behind the sides.
To answer the second question, the paint is Precision roof dirt, airbrushed on.
Nigel