The Heybridge Railway, 1889 to 1913
- Thread starter Richard Gawler
- Start date
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
I thought you would enjoy this! It was very quick. One tap in fact, and with more reserve than on the test piece, and it still looks like a quite a wallop.Exquisite butchery- just fabulous
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Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
Thanks Simon. Having slept on this, I have realised I am becoming an artisan to some degree. Most of the work involves fitting and shaping using hand tools, while the power tools are usually helping for incidental parts. I suppose, this is how it ought to be for building kits.
A driving thought behind this workbench topic is to show how I am evolving as a modelmaker. I am making better progress in 7mm scale than in the various smaller sizes I have tried before. So, I am mentioning techniques when they are new to me, and again when I have found a better way.
It always seems to me, we have plenty of written material for outright beginners, and plenty of completed examples by acomplished experts; but a bit of a dearth of middle-of-the-road stuff by people who are still learning the fundamentals. So maybe I can help a few people. At the same time, I do enjoy taking the photographs, and they certainly help me to find shortcomings in my efforts; and I want to share them. So it seems sensible to let the photos come together with the mistakes and the progress; and I found WT at just the right time.
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
12. Cab Back
The kit includes parts to make a curved back and a straight back for the cab, which is a nice touch. I am using the curved back because I understand, this was the norm before the factory started to fit enclosed cabs.
I formed the back to shape with a thick dowel used like a rolling pin, the etch resting on a chunk of some rigid foam used for packaging (same technique as the saloon coach).
I began assembly with the beading still on the fret. The fret gives something to hold onto. I find it easier to clean up the edges of parts like this after they are fixed in place, and this will show up any inadequate soldering too.
Then I added the base and the two handrails (**)
I could put a wallop into this too, but the model won’t especially benefit from one. It will be prudent to build the other major parts and get them right before inflicting more any major wear and tear. I think two dings is enough for any model.
(**) Edit . . . I had several goes at a photo of the inside of the cab back and they were all slightly soft focus. It occurs to me, the concave shape is confusing the autofocus
The kit includes parts to make a curved back and a straight back for the cab, which is a nice touch. I am using the curved back because I understand, this was the norm before the factory started to fit enclosed cabs.
I formed the back to shape with a thick dowel used like a rolling pin, the etch resting on a chunk of some rigid foam used for packaging (same technique as the saloon coach).
I began assembly with the beading still on the fret. The fret gives something to hold onto. I find it easier to clean up the edges of parts like this after they are fixed in place, and this will show up any inadequate soldering too.
Then I added the base and the two handrails (**)
I could put a wallop into this too, but the model won’t especially benefit from one. It will be prudent to build the other major parts and get them right before inflicting more any major wear and tear. I think two dings is enough for any model.
(**) Edit . . . I had several goes at a photo of the inside of the cab back and they were all slightly soft focus. It occurs to me, the concave shape is confusing the autofocus
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Liver & Fry
Western Thunderer
I've had a quick catch up on this thread from Page 1 til now (apologies for the spam of 'likes'!) and I have to say, there's some lovely modelling here! That Y14 is particularly beautiful! I look forward to seeing more!
- James
- James
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
James thank you for your kind words. I have pondered whether I am making too many posts, even asked a couple of members of WT for their opinions, and the verdict was to not worry as long as am still getting "likes". I expect my posts will get fewer in number but more specific in detail as I get the hang of the basics of kit building, and indeed when I start building the diorama of Heybridge Basin.
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
13. Running Plate
The boiler is a machined brass cylinder, to be trimmed to fit and then suspended between smokebox and firebox. The boiler will be held by the smokebox and firebox, but will not be soldered to them.
The design of kit secures the smokebox to the running plate, and secures the firebox to the chassis. There is no single datum to set the distance between smokebox and firebox until the smokebox, firebox and running plate are all secured together. The length of boiler extending inside the firebox is constrained by my motor mounting bracket, so I have assembled the basics of the running plate so I can prepare and install the boiler cylinder.
I have folded up only the back of the smokebox, so I can how the boiler engages into this.
I have also elongated the holes where the firebox retaining screws pass through the running plate. This removes any constraint here on the longitudinal location of the running plate.
Then I assembled the valances and inner buffer beams onto the running plate. The buffer beams set the longitudinal location of the running plate (and thus, the smokebox) on the chassis. The longitudinal location of the firebox is set by the holes in the lower firebox already soldered between the frames. And so, I can have a fixed space to put the boiler.
The boiler is a machined brass cylinder, to be trimmed to fit and then suspended between smokebox and firebox. The boiler will be held by the smokebox and firebox, but will not be soldered to them.
The design of kit secures the smokebox to the running plate, and secures the firebox to the chassis. There is no single datum to set the distance between smokebox and firebox until the smokebox, firebox and running plate are all secured together. The length of boiler extending inside the firebox is constrained by my motor mounting bracket, so I have assembled the basics of the running plate so I can prepare and install the boiler cylinder.
I have folded up only the back of the smokebox, so I can how the boiler engages into this.
I have also elongated the holes where the firebox retaining screws pass through the running plate. This removes any constraint here on the longitudinal location of the running plate.
Then I assembled the valances and inner buffer beams onto the running plate. The buffer beams set the longitudinal location of the running plate (and thus, the smokebox) on the chassis. The longitudinal location of the firebox is set by the holes in the lower firebox already soldered between the frames. And so, I can have a fixed space to put the boiler.
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
14. Boiler
The boiler cylinder needs a rebate at the front to let it slip into the rear of the smokebox. I found the offcut on the floor and this rather completes the photo. The rebate is a snug fit against the smokebox rear, and its ends prevent the boiler from turning.
At the other end, there is barely 1.5 mm of space for the cylinder to enter the front of the firebox.
I wanted to trim the cylinder to length in the lathe. The cylinder is too large to pass into the headstock spindle, so I made a fixture from an M12 bolt. The former head of the bolt is a close sliding fit inside the cylinder. The 11mm hex socket is simply a spacer to press against the front of the chuck and hold the fixture against a centre in the tailstock.
Removing the last 1.2 mm from the length of the cylinder.
I filed a small rebate into the firebox end of the cylinder . . .
. . . so the cylinder would clear my firebox front and come to rest against my motor bracket.
The cylinder is held in place between smokebox and firebox and cannot rotate because of the rebate at the smokebox end.
I bought the M12 bolt at a local agricultural merchants. The machining took ages, and looking at the till receipt I see I got a high tensile bolt. A bolt made out of butter from the local DIY shed would cut quicker but doubtless cost three times the price
The boiler cylinder needs a rebate at the front to let it slip into the rear of the smokebox. I found the offcut on the floor and this rather completes the photo. The rebate is a snug fit against the smokebox rear, and its ends prevent the boiler from turning.
At the other end, there is barely 1.5 mm of space for the cylinder to enter the front of the firebox.
I wanted to trim the cylinder to length in the lathe. The cylinder is too large to pass into the headstock spindle, so I made a fixture from an M12 bolt. The former head of the bolt is a close sliding fit inside the cylinder. The 11mm hex socket is simply a spacer to press against the front of the chuck and hold the fixture against a centre in the tailstock.
Removing the last 1.2 mm from the length of the cylinder.
I filed a small rebate into the firebox end of the cylinder . . .
. . . so the cylinder would clear my firebox front and come to rest against my motor bracket.
The cylinder is held in place between smokebox and firebox and cannot rotate because of the rebate at the smokebox end.
I bought the M12 bolt at a local agricultural merchants. The machining took ages, and looking at the till receipt I see I got a high tensile bolt. A bolt made out of butter from the local DIY shed would cut quicker but doubtless cost three times the price
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Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
Many years ago, I read reviews of RTR locomotives with glowing references to the daylight visible under the boiler. I used to think this was tremendous, but thinking about it now, no mention was made of daylight visible between the frames. No doubt, there wasn’t any, because the underpinnings were a solid casting.
The view downwards inside the class F is going to be pretty good. The gearbox is tiny, so the most unprototypical thing will be the rocking bracket holding the front axle. If I take this bracket away, the lack of valve gear will become more noticeable.
The view downwards inside the class F is going to be pretty good. The gearbox is tiny, so the most unprototypical thing will be the rocking bracket holding the front axle. If I take this bracket away, the lack of valve gear will become more noticeable.
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
I want to keep my options open for the control of the loco. There is so much time and effort going into the build it would be stupid to deny myself the ability to use conventional analogue DC or DCC, and so the model has a conventional Mashima 12V motor. Fairly obviously, this limits the choice of any radio control equipment to something able to drive the motor. I am cautioned about using one of the so-called voltage boosters, because they tend to reduce controllability ; and this rules out use of the very small Deltang receivers.
Mechanically, the plan is to put the r/c board vertically in the middle of the boiler and extending upwards into the saddle tank; with two AAA-size batteries placed one on each side of this. Wanting to make some space for the controller board, the beautifully machined cylinder from Slater’s could not survive for long . . .
This is my very first go at milling in any lathe.
The space available can get limiting in a small machine. The boiler measures 19.5 mm diameter, and the vertical slide is on its end stop. I have barely enough travel to work the upper edge with the machine vice fixed in its lowest slot. Then again, I don’t expect to mill out many boilers.
The cutter is one I bought for the Minicraft drill. It is not a proper milling cutter but it has always been a pretty vicious thing; and the work here seems to have done it no harm at all. This was so easy to do, and so much less aggravation then trying to cut out the hole using a hacksaw, slitting discs and files.
I have made a space reaching more than 47 x 16 mm, which would be large enough to take a DCC decoder with a socket instead of the radio control board if the need arises.
Mechanically, the plan is to put the r/c board vertically in the middle of the boiler and extending upwards into the saddle tank; with two AAA-size batteries placed one on each side of this. Wanting to make some space for the controller board, the beautifully machined cylinder from Slater’s could not survive for long . . .
This is my very first go at milling in any lathe.
The space available can get limiting in a small machine. The boiler measures 19.5 mm diameter, and the vertical slide is on its end stop. I have barely enough travel to work the upper edge with the machine vice fixed in its lowest slot. Then again, I don’t expect to mill out many boilers.
The cutter is one I bought for the Minicraft drill. It is not a proper milling cutter but it has always been a pretty vicious thing; and the work here seems to have done it no harm at all. This was so easy to do, and so much less aggravation then trying to cut out the hole using a hacksaw, slitting discs and files.
I have made a space reaching more than 47 x 16 mm, which would be large enough to take a DCC decoder with a socket instead of the radio control board if the need arises.
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Hi Richard,
I have used quite a few of the rotary burrs sold for use with mini drills as milling cutters for small work. As long as you take it steady they work a treat
I have used quite a few of the rotary burrs sold for use with mini drills as milling cutters for small work. As long as you take it steady they work a treat
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
15. Saddle Tank
The saddle tank will consist of a base, folded up at the ends, and a wrapper soldered around the top. Eventually.
I thought the top corners of the ends (top left) were too abrupt so I rounded them off (top right).
I am looking at a photo of 'Sankey' but of course this loco may be carrying a replacement tank (†). I suspect the etch is wrong and my alteration is wrong too.
(†) Photograph of 'Sankey' from SMITHERS, M "Locomotive Builders of Leeds, EB Wilson and Manning Wardle", published in Great Britain in 2018 by Pen & Sword Transport.
And then things went really pear-shaped. The boiler protruded most of 3 mm into the tank, just enough to annoy. I had promised myself I would not take off any more material because the boiler would become difficult to clamp in the machine vice, yet I still had to have a go. I also decided to hold the cutter in a collet instead of the three-jaw chuck, for no real reason except to try out the collet holder. Well, very slowly (and unnoticed), the boiler rotated in the machine vice, taking the working edge away from the cutter, while the cutter worked its way out of the collet. So I took off more material than I intended, and on a sloping cut.
I thought about going cap in hand to Slater’s to see if I could buy a new boiler tube, or asking if someone could roll me a boiler; and then I thought I had better try to put this mess right. I couldn't bring myself to take a photograph of it.
My solution was to mill out the crooked edge to try to straighten it up and then put in this strip of 1 mm square brass. This took ages to do, but it was quicker than starting from scratch and it won't show after painting.
So, with the rebate for the smokebox rear propped up on a strip of wood to keep the boiler upright, and the inside edges of the tank base fettled very gently, this is the progress so far.
The brass disc top left is the head of a machine screw plugging the first hole for the Roscoe lubricator. I opened out the half-etched hole here before I realised it was in the wrong place. I will go for the location shown in the photo of 'Sankey'.
I forgot to mention, I have decided to not model the boiler bands. When the boiler was still a complete cylinder, I had the option to turn down the diameter to leave the bands showing. But to be honest, they would be almost impossible to see. They aren't included in the kit so perhaps Slater's thought the same.
The saddle tank will consist of a base, folded up at the ends, and a wrapper soldered around the top. Eventually.
I thought the top corners of the ends (top left) were too abrupt so I rounded them off (top right).
I am looking at a photo of 'Sankey' but of course this loco may be carrying a replacement tank (†). I suspect the etch is wrong and my alteration is wrong too.
(†) Photograph of 'Sankey' from SMITHERS, M "Locomotive Builders of Leeds, EB Wilson and Manning Wardle", published in Great Britain in 2018 by Pen & Sword Transport.
And then things went really pear-shaped. The boiler protruded most of 3 mm into the tank, just enough to annoy. I had promised myself I would not take off any more material because the boiler would become difficult to clamp in the machine vice, yet I still had to have a go. I also decided to hold the cutter in a collet instead of the three-jaw chuck, for no real reason except to try out the collet holder. Well, very slowly (and unnoticed), the boiler rotated in the machine vice, taking the working edge away from the cutter, while the cutter worked its way out of the collet. So I took off more material than I intended, and on a sloping cut.
I thought about going cap in hand to Slater’s to see if I could buy a new boiler tube, or asking if someone could roll me a boiler; and then I thought I had better try to put this mess right. I couldn't bring myself to take a photograph of it.
My solution was to mill out the crooked edge to try to straighten it up and then put in this strip of 1 mm square brass. This took ages to do, but it was quicker than starting from scratch and it won't show after painting.
So, with the rebate for the smokebox rear propped up on a strip of wood to keep the boiler upright, and the inside edges of the tank base fettled very gently, this is the progress so far.
The brass disc top left is the head of a machine screw plugging the first hole for the Roscoe lubricator. I opened out the half-etched hole here before I realised it was in the wrong place. I will go for the location shown in the photo of 'Sankey'.
I forgot to mention, I have decided to not model the boiler bands. When the boiler was still a complete cylinder, I had the option to turn down the diameter to leave the bands showing. But to be honest, they would be almost impossible to see. They aren't included in the kit so perhaps Slater's thought the same.
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Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
I bought some AAA battery holders through eBay.
It really would be very good if two lithium manganese batteries (3.7V each) are enough to the power the model
The build of the saddle tank has been wearying because I do not know what I am trying to build. I have got to accept, I cannot expect to finalise the provisions for the r/c until I am able to buy it and try it out on the bench. The controller I want is going through its pre-release testing, so I will put the saddle tank aside for a while.
It really would be very good if two lithium manganese batteries (3.7V each) are enough to the power the model
The build of the saddle tank has been wearying because I do not know what I am trying to build. I have got to accept, I cannot expect to finalise the provisions for the r/c until I am able to buy it and try it out on the bench. The controller I want is going through its pre-release testing, so I will put the saddle tank aside for a while.
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
Allen's Model of 'Sankey'
We visited the Kent and East Sussex Railway yesterday. The model of ‘Sankey’ by @Allen M is still on display in the marvellous Colonel Stephens Museum.
The model is behind glass so it is in a safe place but tricky to take photographs. I have retouched the backgrounds to remove some of the stray reflections.
This was supposed to be a study trip but we had a bite to eat and a ride on the train and ended up with only twenty minutes in the museum. 'Gazelle' is there, along with displays of relics, ephemera and models dedicated to the Colonel's various railways. I will have to arrange a return visit.
We visited the Kent and East Sussex Railway yesterday. The model of ‘Sankey’ by @Allen M is still on display in the marvellous Colonel Stephens Museum.
The model is behind glass so it is in a safe place but tricky to take photographs. I have retouched the backgrounds to remove some of the stray reflections.
This was supposed to be a study trip but we had a bite to eat and a ride on the train and ended up with only twenty minutes in the museum. 'Gazelle' is there, along with displays of relics, ephemera and models dedicated to the Colonel's various railways. I will have to arrange a return visit.
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
16. Cab, Brake Standard and Steps
The buffer beams will be a sandwich of two layers of brass with some packing (probably wood) between them and they seem to have backed me into a corner.
One way to proceed would be to complete the buffer beams and attach them to the model, and then add the cab back assembly on top. Unfortunately, this would leave me soldering immediately above the rear buffer beam, probably impregnating it with flux and softening the glue along the way. Furthermore, the model would then go into the ultrasonic bath with this attached and I guess swelling up as it soaked up the grimy water.
I have, therefore, omitted the buffer beams for the time being (they have their own topic!) and proceeded to attach the cab back. I found this rather difficult because the cab back needs be a little distance above the footplate.
The cab back came off and went back on again a few times before I was happy to accept it and solder it up solid. This is my final arrangement to set its location, with the wooden buffer beam clamped with the hair grips.
Unfortunately, the cab back managed to move forwards during soldering up. I have set everything nicely central and vertical, but there is a twist around the vertical axis. About 0.7 mm along its length, equating to 0.8 degrees.
I only noticed this when I came to add the brake standard.
I had a half-hearted go with the cook’s torch but nothing here is going to budge without everything dropping to pieces. Sometimes I have to let things pass and I am afraid this is one of them.
I resisted a temptation to file down the base of the brake standard. I blocked its hole with a machine screw and drilled a new hole. I drilled this hole too big, so I sleeved it with some tube and then drilled this out.
Then the spigot broke off the bottom of the brake standard (this wasn't my day!) so I drilled this out and put in a bit of wire to make a new peg. I can glue the brake standard into place after painting.
The steps are worth a mention. I found it easier to attach the bottom step first, then the top step. The top step goes into a half-etched rebate, so it can only move sideways during assembly.
Both assemblies have a strip of fret behind them to add strength, and they are soldered onto the inner buffer beams as well.
There is hardly any metal holding the bottom step. I am using 188 degree solder for all of these details, with the 145 degree attaching the soldered-up subassemblies to the model, but I wonder how long will this bottom step will last in service.
The buffer beams will be a sandwich of two layers of brass with some packing (probably wood) between them and they seem to have backed me into a corner.
One way to proceed would be to complete the buffer beams and attach them to the model, and then add the cab back assembly on top. Unfortunately, this would leave me soldering immediately above the rear buffer beam, probably impregnating it with flux and softening the glue along the way. Furthermore, the model would then go into the ultrasonic bath with this attached and I guess swelling up as it soaked up the grimy water.
I have, therefore, omitted the buffer beams for the time being (they have their own topic!) and proceeded to attach the cab back. I found this rather difficult because the cab back needs be a little distance above the footplate.
The cab back came off and went back on again a few times before I was happy to accept it and solder it up solid. This is my final arrangement to set its location, with the wooden buffer beam clamped with the hair grips.
Unfortunately, the cab back managed to move forwards during soldering up. I have set everything nicely central and vertical, but there is a twist around the vertical axis. About 0.7 mm along its length, equating to 0.8 degrees.
I only noticed this when I came to add the brake standard.
I had a half-hearted go with the cook’s torch but nothing here is going to budge without everything dropping to pieces. Sometimes I have to let things pass and I am afraid this is one of them.
I resisted a temptation to file down the base of the brake standard. I blocked its hole with a machine screw and drilled a new hole. I drilled this hole too big, so I sleeved it with some tube and then drilled this out.
Then the spigot broke off the bottom of the brake standard (this wasn't my day!) so I drilled this out and put in a bit of wire to make a new peg. I can glue the brake standard into place after painting.
The steps are worth a mention. I found it easier to attach the bottom step first, then the top step. The top step goes into a half-etched rebate, so it can only move sideways during assembly.
Both assemblies have a strip of fret behind them to add strength, and they are soldered onto the inner buffer beams as well.
There is hardly any metal holding the bottom step. I am using 188 degree solder for all of these details, with the 145 degree attaching the soldered-up subassemblies to the model, but I wonder how long will this bottom step will last in service.
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Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
A thought for the future might be to extend the strip of waste fret down under the step to add a little more strength. As long as you don’t bring it right to the front of the step, it wouldn't be visible from normal viewing angles.
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
Thanks Rob. Strips of fret added around the back of each bottom step. These have added a surprising amount of strength.
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Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
17. Springs and Sand Boxes
There is very little metal to hold the springs but there is enough. Brass tinned to help the solder to flow before the castings melt.
Everything cleaned up well, including the aftermath of the adventure with the cab back.
Photographs show the sides of the sand boxes flush with the outside edges of the running plate. The sand pipes need to drop vertically, ending up above the rails, and this leaves the sand box castings too shallow to drill out for the pipes. So I put the pipes into grooves in the inner sides of the sand boxes.
I can glue the sand boxes onto the running plate after painting.
The red paint is temporary to discourage rusting. This is Vallejo acrylic over U-Pol no.8 etch primer and the Vallejo is not withstanding the handling during the build.
There is very little metal to hold the springs but there is enough. Brass tinned to help the solder to flow before the castings melt.
Everything cleaned up well, including the aftermath of the adventure with the cab back.
Photographs show the sides of the sand boxes flush with the outside edges of the running plate. The sand pipes need to drop vertically, ending up above the rails, and this leaves the sand box castings too shallow to drill out for the pipes. So I put the pipes into grooves in the inner sides of the sand boxes.
I can glue the sand boxes onto the running plate after painting.
The red paint is temporary to discourage rusting. This is Vallejo acrylic over U-Pol no.8 etch primer and the Vallejo is not withstanding the handling during the build.
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Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
18. Smokebox
The smokebox assembly is a fold-up frame (this appears in some of my earlier photos), a wrapper, a front and a door.
I formed the wrapper around offcuts of copper water pipe. I didn’t anneal the brass and I ended up with something quite close to the desired shape. So there isn’t much strain on the soldered joints.
The wrapper is wider than the completed assembly, which is good for final filing to size, but too short to reach the running plate at both ends, which is not so good.
The profile of the front looks different to the profile of the frame, though I didn’t check before assembly. I filled the gaps with solder.
The smokebox is a bolt-on subassembly so I cannot fill the gap between wrapper and running plate with more solder. A bit of wire before filing down to blend in.
I don't know if this hole is here to reduce the mass of brass inside the door; or to maybe we are supposed to solder the two fronts together here. Remembering what happened to my Y14 I can sense potential disaster, so I have passed this by.
The kit includes three smokebox doors. I am using the plainest one because this gives me a choice of two slightly more ornate designs to backdate ‘Blackwater’, my Minerva class K.
The smokebox is the last fabrication for a while so here are a couple of photos of what I have so far.
I want to omit the tank wrapper until I have devised the fixings for the tank; and I want to have the r/c equipment and know it will work and fit inside before I try to do this. The firebox wrapper can go on after I have the motor installed and wired up.
The ballast weights, if any, need to wait as well. I can put some lead into the smokebox if I want to move the final C of G forwards, or into the coal bunkers if I want to move it backwards, or both if I just want longer trains.
I can prepare the fittings for the chimney, safety valve and clack valves; and the buffer beams; and have a think about a power switch to go with the r/c and some conventional pickups so I can run the loco with my analogue controller.
The smokebox assembly is a fold-up frame (this appears in some of my earlier photos), a wrapper, a front and a door.
I formed the wrapper around offcuts of copper water pipe. I didn’t anneal the brass and I ended up with something quite close to the desired shape. So there isn’t much strain on the soldered joints.
The wrapper is wider than the completed assembly, which is good for final filing to size, but too short to reach the running plate at both ends, which is not so good.
The profile of the front looks different to the profile of the frame, though I didn’t check before assembly. I filled the gaps with solder.
The smokebox is a bolt-on subassembly so I cannot fill the gap between wrapper and running plate with more solder. A bit of wire before filing down to blend in.
I don't know if this hole is here to reduce the mass of brass inside the door; or to maybe we are supposed to solder the two fronts together here. Remembering what happened to my Y14 I can sense potential disaster, so I have passed this by.
The kit includes three smokebox doors. I am using the plainest one because this gives me a choice of two slightly more ornate designs to backdate ‘Blackwater’, my Minerva class K.
The smokebox is the last fabrication for a while so here are a couple of photos of what I have so far.
I want to omit the tank wrapper until I have devised the fixings for the tank; and I want to have the r/c equipment and know it will work and fit inside before I try to do this. The firebox wrapper can go on after I have the motor installed and wired up.
The ballast weights, if any, need to wait as well. I can put some lead into the smokebox if I want to move the final C of G forwards, or into the coal bunkers if I want to move it backwards, or both if I just want longer trains.
I can prepare the fittings for the chimney, safety valve and clack valves; and the buffer beams; and have a think about a power switch to go with the r/c and some conventional pickups so I can run the loco with my analogue controller.
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Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Fairplay Richard, superb stuff!
Mike
Mike