dibateg
Western Thunderer
There not many big pipes that are visible on this loco, but there are plenty of small ones. I drilled out all the castings 0.5mm and used a mixture of 0.3 and 0.4mm copper wire. The atomisers came with cast pipes, but I felt they were a little over size, so I cut them off and drilled them out for the pipes. The drain cock linkage was representational, so I found a nice little etch with some tiny cranks on in the spares box, so they came in handy. I struggled with the full thickness etched sand guards, I ended up scratching them up from some thinner material. One pipe needs poking into it's hole in the steam pipe cover. Sorting out these small details has soaked up a lot of time!
The safety valves in the kit lacked the big base with bolts that are typical of these boilers, I found a suitable pair in the spares box. The whistle is a very nice little casting.
Next job is to tackle the slidebar bracket, and I think I'll stick the wheels on and get it going.
The safety valves in the kit lacked the big base with bolts that are typical of these boilers, I found a suitable pair in the spares box. The whistle is a very nice little casting.
Next job is to tackle the slidebar bracket, and I think I'll stick the wheels on and get it going.
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Despite the awful weather, I seem to be making slow progress. There were one or two items that I wanted to improve on. It took a days work to fit out the frames with the wheels and pick ups. The wheels are on and off getting the right side control washers on the wheels. Making sure the rods don't hit the brake mounts etc. I added some cranks below the rear sandboxes for the sanding mechanism. The slide bar support bracket was insubstantial. It was a hefty casting on the original. So I added some thin brass strip to represent that tapered flange and drilled the slidebar support webs to accept some lengths of wire to represent the retaining bolts. The drop link had a projection on it typical of some LNER locos, but the O1 doesn't have that so it was filed off. The return cranks are nice castings, thick enough to be tapped 10BA, and they tighten up against 2 brass top hats also tapped. To me, the front spectacles don't look quite right, they have quite a sad expression. In the prototype photos, they are shallower and a little more mean looking! I also added that support bracket above the rear sandbox.
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Thanks Paul -
I'm on with the tender and flared ones are always tricky. With this kit the flare comes as a half etched strip, with raised beading. I use my folding bars that have a rounded edge on one side to form them. They sit in a half etch at the top of the side. I also soldered some scrap etch along the inside of the side (not seen here ) to support the top so that it didn't drift whilst soldering it in place.
The chassis is simple and goes together quickly. I used some spares castings to beef up the adjuster. The intermediate pull rods should have clevises really.
I always thought that all GC tenders were the same, but after studying multiple photos, realise that that's not the case. My O4/8 has an ROD tender. The O1 will have a GC tender with no pickup and low rear division plate. I wasn't sure what to do with the beading, it is raised from the half etch and looks very flat. Adding half round would make it look to high, removing it is impractical, and I didn't fancy making up new panels. In the end I resorted to subterfuge by using multiple emery sticks to round it off. From layout distance it looks fine. I didn't waste my time with the coal space and plated it over, it will have a full load.
I'm on with the tender and flared ones are always tricky. With this kit the flare comes as a half etched strip, with raised beading. I use my folding bars that have a rounded edge on one side to form them. They sit in a half etch at the top of the side. I also soldered some scrap etch along the inside of the side (not seen here ) to support the top so that it didn't drift whilst soldering it in place.
The chassis is simple and goes together quickly. I used some spares castings to beef up the adjuster. The intermediate pull rods should have clevises really.
I always thought that all GC tenders were the same, but after studying multiple photos, realise that that's not the case. My O4/8 has an ROD tender. The O1 will have a GC tender with no pickup and low rear division plate. I wasn't sure what to do with the beading, it is raised from the half etch and looks very flat. Adding half round would make it look to high, removing it is impractical, and I didn't fancy making up new panels. In the end I resorted to subterfuge by using multiple emery sticks to round it off. From layout distance it looks fine. I didn't waste my time with the coal space and plated it over, it will have a full load.
P A D
Western Thunderer
Hi Tony,
Give me back my D11 tender or I'll
!
Looks very similar and as you say, there are quite a number of variants. Took me a while to get my head around all the differences and there are quite a number of etchings left over. At least you won't have to fit the + fire iron bracket. It's a "pita" when handling.
Those nail polishers are good for rounding the edges on flat beading. Being on a soft base they wrap over the edges and round them off.
Lovely build by the way.
Cheers,
Peter
Give me back my D11 tender or I'll
!Looks very similar and as you say, there are quite a number of variants. Took me a while to get my head around all the differences and there are quite a number of etchings left over. At least you won't have to fit the + fire iron bracket. It's a "pita" when handling.
Those nail polishers are good for rounding the edges on flat beading. Being on a soft base they wrap over the edges and round them off.
Lovely build by the way.
Cheers,
Peter
dibateg
Western Thunderer
I've been working on the cylinders - for whatever reason the cylinder covers as part of the slidebar casting are undersize. So the quick and dirty fix was to make some rings from square brass bar. Solder them in place and then turn them in the lathe to the same size as the front covers.
Putting them on with 188 solder.
Post lathe turning and checking the fit. Once cleaned up a bit more and painted the join won't notice.
Putting them on with 188 solder.
Post lathe turning and checking the fit. Once cleaned up a bit more and painted the join won't notice.
dibateg
Western Thunderer
I've got in the habit of questioning every part these days Peter! I wonder if the slidebar castings are from something else to keep the costs down. Thank you for the photos, I've been using your build thread instead of the instructions! I've also noticed the valve guides are too far out. Grrr!
And it's here dear readers:-
David Andrews 7mm Stanier 2 6 4 tank.
I've also found another strange discrepancy, the valences are too short for the front platform, which would put the buffer beam too far back. Or I've cocked something up - yet again!
And it's here dear readers:-
David Andrews 7mm Stanier 2 6 4 tank.
I've also found another strange discrepancy, the valences are too short for the front platform, which would put the buffer beam too far back. Or I've cocked something up - yet again!
P A D
Western Thunderer
Hi Tony,
No you haven't cocked up, mine was the same. If I remember correctly, I had to file the top of the upward fold to get the running plate to sit back so the ends of the valances were against the end of the grooves. It still over hangs too much and I should have filed the front edge, but I let it go.
I don't recall an issue with the valve guides. Do you mean too far out from the frames?
If you keep highlighting all my mistakes I'm going to have to take a blowtorch to mine and start again.
Cheers,
Peter
No you haven't cocked up, mine was the same. If I remember correctly, I had to file the top of the upward fold to get the running plate to sit back so the ends of the valances were against the end of the grooves. It still over hangs too much and I should have filed the front edge, but I let it go.
I don't recall an issue with the valve guides. Do you mean too far out from the frames?
If you keep highlighting all my mistakes I'm going to have to take a blowtorch to mine and start again.
Cheers,
Peter
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Yes - the rear guides are too close to the cylinder wrappers - I took them of and elongated the holes inwards. I'm going to struggle to get mine as good as yours Peter!
I made up the front platform, and sat and looked at it for a while, decided it was a botch job, then ended up torching it apart and starting again. Basically the etching for the front platform is too long, so the upstands stick up too much and have to be reduce by a mill and a half or so. I had to anneal it to reshape it - hence the discoloured appearance.
In the past I've made up smokebox saddles and then tried to fit the smokebox later with the risk of horrible gaps. Not this time, lets make up the smokebox, make sure the saddle fits it nicely first. Then fit the saddle to the running plate.
I made up the front platform, and sat and looked at it for a while, decided it was a botch job, then ended up torching it apart and starting again. Basically the etching for the front platform is too long, so the upstands stick up too much and have to be reduce by a mill and a half or so. I had to anneal it to reshape it - hence the discoloured appearance.
In the past I've made up smokebox saddles and then tried to fit the smokebox later with the risk of horrible gaps. Not this time, lets make up the smokebox, make sure the saddle fits it nicely first. Then fit the saddle to the running plate.
dibateg
Western Thunderer
One thing to watch for when kits are designed to automatically locate parts together, is that they locate in the right place. The holes in the front of the firebox align with the holes at the back of the boiler. Unfortunately that creates a step between the two parts, the top of the boiler cladding should line up with the top of the firebox.
So I had to elongate the holes so that the boiler can sit slightly higher. That's better!
Meanwhile an interesting assembly has been made up for Weymouth
So I had to elongate the holes so that the boiler can sit slightly higher. That's better!
Meanwhile an interesting assembly has been made up for Weymouth
Attachments
dibateg
Western Thunderer
There are a lot of oilers around the front end, I couldn't find anything like the one that should be at the front of the running plate. The closest I could get is 3 port oiler ( which is similar to that on the preserved 3 cylinder loco ) and I'm not fully happy with the ones on the front of the tank, I might re-visit them. Boiler is just plonked on for the moment.
Inside the cab, as designed the tank extensions are about 4mm too wide. An easy way to cover up the wheels I suspect. So these have been cut back to the same width of the tanks. Splashers will have to be made up.
Inside the cab, as designed the tank extensions are about 4mm too wide. An easy way to cover up the wheels I suspect. So these have been cut back to the same width of the tanks. Splashers will have to be made up.