7mm The Derby Line - Rolling Stock

Reader mode
dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
I believe you are right Heather - I remember Mr Waterman advertising the JLTRT WD has the correct wheelbase!

My Oakville WD still has it's white metal slidebars! It's had a rebuild since this photo, from Walsall to Slaters wheels..

DSCF1201.JPG

Here is Dave Wellingtons 04/8, built by Allen Hammet, weathered by Dave -Allen also built one for me ( I contracted some work out to reduce the unbuilt kit pile! ):-

P1000546.JPG
 
7mmMick

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Great pictures Tony, just out of curiosity why did you change wheels. I only ask as I intended to use Wasall Wheels in the future. Thanks for the heads up Heather, I'm now going to dig out the MRJ review to see how stretched it is as to be honest it would bother me. I'm hoping its not too far and be shrunk back to size easily ?

ATB Mick
 
3 LINK

3 LINK

Western Thunderer
Rob Pulham

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Mick, I can't recommend it as I haven't built it yet but if you want to have a look at one of the Snowhill/Roxey ones in the flesh. Next time you are in the vicinity let me know and I will dig it out. As far as I recall from my enquiries when I was on the look out for a WD kit, the wheelbase was stretched by a millimetre. What appealed to me over the JLRT kit is that everything is brass apart from the backhead casting which is whitemetal. The JLRT kit has quite a few whitemetal castings plus the resin smoke box and I think that the tender tank might be resin too.
I have some info on the JLRT one that Pete Waterman sent me if you want a copy. I also have a copy of the MRJ articles on the Snowhill offering.
 
7mmMick

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Thanks for the advice fella's. I had a good read of te MRJ article last night and the positives of the kit are that Laurie Griffin did the castings and all apart from one are lost wax brass. Also the kit looks accurate and there is real attention to detail. I know this a contradiction in terms but the kit looks well designed for F/S in as much as the frames are built in sections so that F/S wheels can be fitted and all the frames around them are scale width so that it looks right ( not my words, quotes from the article ;-) ) So the negatives for me are that it is stretched by 2mm to fit the brake blocks between the F/S wheels and by the looks this cant be changed as its a general stretch over the length of the loco. And overall it looks like a difficult conversion. But all that said I'm not ruling it out. With regards te JLTRT WD I probably need to have a good look at it and the Snowhill one to decide, so thanks for the kind offer Rob I will take you up on that in the future.

Martyn, how does the JLTRT kit deal with the minimal distance between drivers because from what the Snowhill lads say it can't be done without compromise ( hence their 2mm stretch ).

Apologies for the small hijack Tony,

ATB Mick
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
IIRC, the Snowhill WD has the correct articulation around the front section of coupling rod which allows the cylinders to be positioned at the correct centres. For me the Snowhill one captures the look of a WD better (which may be down to the cylinders) and in due course is where I'm headed for my Brighton allocated one. For a start I'll be able to mount the speaker for the sound decoder in the hollow brass boiler, rather than in the tender of the NQLTRT one.

I must add that the NQLTRT tender (at least) looks to be a very quick and simple build; I've got one here for running behind a Finney Duchess as 'City of Bradford' ran on the Southern during the '48 trials. And yes the tender tank is resin.

Steph
 
dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
I'm quite happy for discussion to take place here, except that it makes me think I should make a start on the WD!

I changed the Walsall wheels out on the WD as the back to backs were to tight for the 31.5mm turnouts on Heyside.

Regards

Tony
 
7mmMick

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
dibateg said:
I'm quite happy for discussion to take place here, except that it makes me think I should make a start on the WD!

I changed the Walsall wheels out on the WD as the back to backs were to tight for the 31.5mm turnouts on Heyside.

Regards



Tony
Click to expand...

Make a start you say, what a great idea :) Did you find a home for those Walsall Wheels ?

ATB Mick
 
3 LINK

3 LINK

Western Thunderer
7mmMick said:
Martyn, how does the JLTRT kit deal with the minimal distance between drivers because from what the Snowhill lads say it can't be done without compromise ( hence their 2mm stretch ).

Apologies for the small hijack Tony,

ATB Mick
Click to expand...

Hi Mick,

I am not sure how this was accomplished, maybe some much finer brake block castings, I would think the best person to ask on this subject is either Laurie at JLTRT or Geoff Holt as I am fairly sure he made the one that Pete has on Leamington Spa.

ATB,

Martyn.
 
Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
I am puzzled as to why JLTRT can suggest that their model is accurate and by implication that a competitor's model is not so without some explanation... if this prototype is anything like some of the four cylinder GWR 4-6-0 classes then the "tight" spot might well be the flanges rather than the break (brake) blocks. For example:- 7mm models of the GWR Star and Castle classes need the flanges of the leading / driving wheels to be to scale to provide clearance between those wheels. I think that wheels with 0-FS flanges have problems whilst wheels with S7 flanges fit neatly. Cue plug for S7 Stores which has wheels for GWR Stars, Saints, Castles in three versions - which ought to be accurate as prototype drawings where supplied to Slaters. The S7 wheels use the same method of mounting on axles as does the 0-FS wheels so changing axles produces wheels with prototype flanges for use on 32mm and 31.5mm track.

regards, Graham
 
7mmMick

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Dog Star said:
Just like a Yorkshireman - waste not want not etc.. Mind you Mick, you are likely to find the B2B to be a tad on the tight side for West Mersea.

regards, Graham
Click to expand...

:)):)):thumbs: You don't miss a trick Graham and heres me thinking i'm subtle :)) I was thinking a swift re profile and some new split axles would see them put to good use :thumbs: ( the shy boy gets no jam and all that ). We digress so to kind of bring it back, what do you think of these resin type boilers and tanks etc Tony ?

ATB Mick
 
3 LINK

3 LINK

Western Thunderer
Hi Mick,

Regarding resin boilers, I have made two kits using these, both JLTRT kits a 57xx and a 42xx and not only are they a time saver but also have good crisp detail.

Super glue grips well when adding steam pipes, chimneys and domes. The only downside in my opinion is something in the resin make up causes drill bits to wear at quite a rate when drilling out for the handrails, etc.

The other added bonus is that they are quite weighty and spread the load nice and even :thumbs:.

ATB,

Martyn.
 
Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
3 LINK said:
Regarding resin boilers... The only downside in my opinion is something in the resin make up causes drill bits to wear at quite a rate...
Click to expand...
You are correct about the content of the resin... there have been suggestions "elsewhere" that the "filler" in the resin is glass... or alumina. Laurie at JLTRT has advised me that the filler is detrimental to normal jobbers drills. So either do not drill holes on the resin (or file etc). or use tipped / coated drills.

No sure why, the filler seems to be used only with the loco kits; the resin used for wagons and carriages is easy to drill/file/sand/carve.

regards, Graham
 
3 LINK

3 LINK

Western Thunderer
7mmMick said:
Martyn, how does the JLTRT kit deal with the minimal distance between drivers because from what the Snowhill lads say it can't be done without compromise ( hence their 2mm stretch ).



ATB Mick
Click to expand...

Evening Mick,

Well I had a chat with " someone in the know" today and the JLTRT WD's wheelbase is spot on, and the problem was as said there is just not enough clearance between the drivers and the brake shoes. JLTRT got round this problem by " lowering " the position of the brake hanger brackets :rolleyes:.

But and it is a but, if you are building it in S7 then there is enough clearance to fit them exactly where they should be in the first place. :thumbs:

ATB,

Martyn.
 
dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
Thanks Martyn!

Yes the resin in myJLTRT 4F boiler saw off a few drills, before I realise what the problem was, yes there is a 'glass' content. The circular saw I used to cut out for the valves ended up just as a plain disc!

Cheers

Tony
 
Reader mode
You must log in or register to reply here.
What's New?
Top