7mm Still On The Intercity Workbench - Class 06 D2440
- Thread starter Intercity126
- Start date
Intercity126
Western Thunderer
Thanks all - I'm also very pleased with the way it turned out.
When I first moved to Bergen and was interviewing candidates for Mrs Intercity, my lifetime collection of railway "stuff" filled the spare bedroom, although it really was extremely poorly set up in those days... It did however establish the baseline requirements.
A few years later, and considerably more domesticated, I invested some cash in the furniture to store and support the whole shooting match, which tidied up the room quite considerably and everyone was happy.
In the fullness of time when the first of our Wee Girls arrived and Mrs Intercity started looking at bigger nests, it was an absolute requirement that I had a Railway Room at least the equal of the old one - I have been roaming the planet with my job for 20 years now and this is intended to be my final house move.
The room was in need of some work when we first moved in, however I think the time spent has been worthwhile.
This is the room shortly after we moved with my pointwork showing the signs of a traumatic move.
For some reason Mrs Intercity didn't think the Trojan re-covered suite was suitable for her new living room. Her loss is my gain and I think it is quite fine in the Railway Room. I don't expect the material will ever wear out in domestic service.
Jordan is not the first to have suggested a beer fridge - I'm definitely considering it.
When I first moved to Bergen and was interviewing candidates for Mrs Intercity, my lifetime collection of railway "stuff" filled the spare bedroom, although it really was extremely poorly set up in those days... It did however establish the baseline requirements.
A few years later, and considerably more domesticated, I invested some cash in the furniture to store and support the whole shooting match, which tidied up the room quite considerably and everyone was happy.
In the fullness of time when the first of our Wee Girls arrived and Mrs Intercity started looking at bigger nests, it was an absolute requirement that I had a Railway Room at least the equal of the old one - I have been roaming the planet with my job for 20 years now and this is intended to be my final house move.
The room was in need of some work when we first moved in, however I think the time spent has been worthwhile.
This is the room shortly after we moved with my pointwork showing the signs of a traumatic move.
For some reason Mrs Intercity didn't think the Trojan re-covered suite was suitable for her new living room. Her loss is my gain and I think it is quite fine in the Railway Room. I don't expect the material will ever wear out in domestic service.
Jordan is not the first to have suggested a beer fridge - I'm definitely considering it.
S
Simon Dunkley
Guest
I knew the Norwegians were more civilised about many things, but "interviewing candidates"?
I met my wife at work, and she gave me a lift home to my flat, and I felt it only proper to invite her in for a coffee. The lounge was, at the time, host to a baseboard standing on its legs, as well as my modelling bench, books, materials, etc. I was somewhat startled when she started recognising brands of glue, but then found out that he father is a railway modeller, and she was used to the idea of a "train den". I suppose at that point I had to marry her! I have most of the garage available to me - with a foam-filled stud wall, it stays dry and cosy in there.
Many years ago, Ian Futers (I think in one of his Lochside P4 articles) mentioned that we only have one life, so it makes sense to ensure we get some time and space to enjoy it and our hobbies. (Lochside was set up in his study.) Too right!
You have a very nice "train den" there!
Intercity126
Western Thunderer
Hi all - Unfortunately I've not had much time for model railways (or much else) of late, but my luck was in today and the Wee Girls were looked after by their Grandma for the afternoon, allowing me to disappear downstairs for a few enjoyable hours of cutting, bashing and melting metal.
I decided to tackle the rear marker lights. I had a bit of a head start on the cab rear as I had soldered on the lifting brackets to the buffer beams, but the rest was still to be started.
I cut a V notch out of the rear of the previously modified marker lights to allow them to locate firmly on the (thankfully straight) horizontal conduit run. As I had modified the bottom of the lamps to represent the later type fitted to the class, I needed to make up some lamp iron lower halves from strip, with rivet detail punched out on the tool I made for the lifting brackets. The top lamp is different, having no lamp bracket and being fixed directly to the bulkhead. The top lamp iron is mounted separately. More strip.
The vertical conduit section is joggled to fit over a horizontal strengthening iron (which I had previously missed - there is a line etched to receive this on the kit).
I joggled the brass wire by mickey-mousing up some steel wire and an old bicycle spoke into a former and formed the joggle with some persuasion from a hammer. Surprisingly this worked a treat.
A little bit more bending with pliers and some soldering later, this is the result:
I decided to tackle the rear marker lights. I had a bit of a head start on the cab rear as I had soldered on the lifting brackets to the buffer beams, but the rest was still to be started.
I cut a V notch out of the rear of the previously modified marker lights to allow them to locate firmly on the (thankfully straight) horizontal conduit run. As I had modified the bottom of the lamps to represent the later type fitted to the class, I needed to make up some lamp iron lower halves from strip, with rivet detail punched out on the tool I made for the lifting brackets. The top lamp is different, having no lamp bracket and being fixed directly to the bulkhead. The top lamp iron is mounted separately. More strip.
The vertical conduit section is joggled to fit over a horizontal strengthening iron (which I had previously missed - there is a line etched to receive this on the kit).
I joggled the brass wire by mickey-mousing up some steel wire and an old bicycle spoke into a former and formed the joggle with some persuasion from a hammer. Surprisingly this worked a treat.
A little bit more bending with pliers and some soldering later, this is the result:
Phill Dyson
Western Thunderer
Coming together really well Andrew 
I came across this dodgy slide of mine the other day & thought it might be of some interest...
Phill
I came across this dodgy slide of mine the other day & thought it might be of some interest...
Phill
Intercity126
Western Thunderer
Thanks Phill, you can never have too many prototype shots - I don't recognise the location - looks a bit too balmy for the Fife coalfields....
I think this may be 06 006? Not my favourite livery variation - too gaudy for me - but the white painted wheels and yellow side panels do make things stand out quite well. For that reason I used a side-on view of this loco to estimate dimensions during "The Great Crankpin-throw Fiasco" of earlier this year - more on that later.... I have a very early start tomorrow.
I think this may be 06 006? Not my favourite livery variation - too gaudy for me - but the white painted wheels and yellow side panels do make things stand out quite well. For that reason I used a side-on view of this loco to estimate dimensions during "The Great Crankpin-throw Fiasco" of earlier this year - more on that later.... I have a very early start tomorrow.
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Any progress pics on the 06 Andrew?
Im in the process of building a Judith Edge 06 kit for Steve (40126) , so very interested in your progress
Rob
Im in the process of building a Judith Edge 06 kit for Steve (40126) , so very interested in your progress
Rob
Intercity126
Western Thunderer
Hi Rob - not much been happening to the Barclay in the last weeks (due to a combination of the Tour de France and some forced labour laying floor tiles in the basement) but I'll post something soon...
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
Some would say the interviewing stage is the best partI knew the Norwegians were more civilised about many things, but "interviewing candidates"?
Intercity126
Western Thunderer
I'm not going to get drawn into discussions on Job Description and Qualifications....
Colin M
Western Thunderer
Great work!
Really enjoyed reading your solutions to the missing details. This has made me want to get on with a "Right Price" 03 that I started a while back and never finished. I struggled on the chassis, getting the axle bearings square enough for fine tolerances in the con rods. I need to invest in a chassis jig! (Anyone got any recomendations for good one?)
Really enjoyed reading your solutions to the missing details. This has made me want to get on with a "Right Price" 03 that I started a while back and never finished. I struggled on the chassis, getting the axle bearings square enough for fine tolerances in the con rods. I need to invest in a chassis jig! (Anyone got any recomendations for good one?)
Intercity126
Western Thunderer
Hi Colin - I am also struggling with the chassis on this kit...
I mentioned in a previous post "The Great Crankpin-throw Fiasco" - I had (have) a problem with the throw of the crankpins. I had beefed up the jackshaft drive with additional scrap etch layers as it looked a bit weedy and then drilled them as accurately as I could on my one machine tool (a pillar drill I bought from the previous owner of my house).
The drill passed cleanly through the etched guide holes. Everything seemed nice and square and was looking good until I came to assemble the parts into a working chassis - the crankpin throw does not even remotely match the recommeded Slaters Class 02 wheels (which in itself are not correct - number/profile of spokes). Cue much searching of 'tinternet and comparison/scaling from photos (As I mentioned in my reply to Phill above, shots of 06 006 came in particularly useful due to the white painted bosses).
I called the kit designer who has built several of the kits to see if he originally designed the kit for an alternative wheel, but he recommends "sloppy clearances" as the best option. Unfortunately I think the Slaters wheel is the best compromise I can find (although crank throw is the one thing that is correct). I think the only solution for me is to remake these parts. Unfortunately as you can tell from the dates of the attached shots, I've not exactly been moving at light speed to correct this fault. Maybe I'll manage something for it's 1st birthday...
____________________
Drawing a line under the Great Crankpin Fiasco, I'll get on to some actual glacial progress...
I've been working on the front end again - The kit supplies some brass tacks for use as grab irons at the front steps, but I decided to try to replicate the tall tapered ball-top type with some wobbly Black & Decker assisted bodgery.
I chucked up some cut off brass pins to slightly over the required length and simply formed the taper and ball tops with files.
Chucking these up to the correct length helps to keep the taper consistent, but (as usual with free-form bodgery) I made a couple of spares so that I could use the most consistent ones together.
Enthused by my apparent success, I decided to attempt the radiator cap next. I've been searching for a decent close up of this for months - unfortunately this item likes to hide between the horns and the front lamp, but I finally found a good one of 06 003 at Manchester.
I dished the top of a brass screw using the same method as the grab irons...
The slot in the screw was filled with a sliver of scrap and the bolts represented with brass rod. Filed down it will do for me. Unfortunately my overenthusiastic blowtorch wielding loosened the front lamp, but this gave me the opportunity to correctly mount the bracket on the front (not top) of the radiator.
Last up was the radiator grille. This has a rim, which I bent up to shape before soldering on.
The wire was a bit thick so I filed it down a bit when I trimmed the wire mesh.
I mentioned in a previous post "The Great Crankpin-throw Fiasco" - I had (have) a problem with the throw of the crankpins. I had beefed up the jackshaft drive with additional scrap etch layers as it looked a bit weedy and then drilled them as accurately as I could on my one machine tool (a pillar drill I bought from the previous owner of my house).
The drill passed cleanly through the etched guide holes. Everything seemed nice and square and was looking good until I came to assemble the parts into a working chassis - the crankpin throw does not even remotely match the recommeded Slaters Class 02 wheels (which in itself are not correct - number/profile of spokes). Cue much searching of 'tinternet and comparison/scaling from photos (As I mentioned in my reply to Phill above, shots of 06 006 came in particularly useful due to the white painted bosses).
I called the kit designer who has built several of the kits to see if he originally designed the kit for an alternative wheel, but he recommends "sloppy clearances" as the best option. Unfortunately I think the Slaters wheel is the best compromise I can find (although crank throw is the one thing that is correct). I think the only solution for me is to remake these parts. Unfortunately as you can tell from the dates of the attached shots, I've not exactly been moving at light speed to correct this fault. Maybe I'll manage something for it's 1st birthday...
____________________
Drawing a line under the Great Crankpin Fiasco, I'll get on to some actual glacial progress...
I've been working on the front end again - The kit supplies some brass tacks for use as grab irons at the front steps, but I decided to try to replicate the tall tapered ball-top type with some wobbly Black & Decker assisted bodgery.
I chucked up some cut off brass pins to slightly over the required length and simply formed the taper and ball tops with files.
Chucking these up to the correct length helps to keep the taper consistent, but (as usual with free-form bodgery) I made a couple of spares so that I could use the most consistent ones together.
Enthused by my apparent success, I decided to attempt the radiator cap next. I've been searching for a decent close up of this for months - unfortunately this item likes to hide between the horns and the front lamp, but I finally found a good one of 06 003 at Manchester.
I dished the top of a brass screw using the same method as the grab irons...
The slot in the screw was filled with a sliver of scrap and the bolts represented with brass rod. Filed down it will do for me. Unfortunately my overenthusiastic blowtorch wielding loosened the front lamp, but this gave me the opportunity to correctly mount the bracket on the front (not top) of the radiator.
Last up was the radiator grille. This has a rim, which I bent up to shape before soldering on.
The wire was a bit thick so I filed it down a bit when I trimmed the wire mesh.
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Nice work
Colin M
Western Thunderer
Really good progress! Love the B&D 'lathe' turning!
The chassis is definately the most awkward bit of these kits. I've experienced exactley the same troubles! I've found it difficult to fit together and achieve a rolling chassis without it binding. I don't want to have sloppy crank clearances. The second half of the jack shaft has to be soldered in situ, which I have found it nigh on impossible to achieve a square joint and correct quartering. (I'll dig mine out and take a couple of photos).
The solution I'm going to try next is to bin the supplied jack shaft and balance weights and replace with an extra pair of Slaters wheels and axel. I'm going to cut away the rims and spokes and fabricate the balance weight around the centre piece. In this way, I can retain the Slaters crankpin centre, exactly the same as the driving wheels, and everything will fit square and quartered correctly. (It's a bit expensive way of doing it, but if it gets me over this hurdle and motivates me to finish the kit it will be worth every penny!)
Colin
The chassis is definately the most awkward bit of these kits. I've experienced exactley the same troubles! I've found it difficult to fit together and achieve a rolling chassis without it binding. I don't want to have sloppy crank clearances. The second half of the jack shaft has to be soldered in situ, which I have found it nigh on impossible to achieve a square joint and correct quartering. (I'll dig mine out and take a couple of photos).
The solution I'm going to try next is to bin the supplied jack shaft and balance weights and replace with an extra pair of Slaters wheels and axel. I'm going to cut away the rims and spokes and fabricate the balance weight around the centre piece. In this way, I can retain the Slaters crankpin centre, exactly the same as the driving wheels, and everything will fit square and quartered correctly. (It's a bit expensive way of doing it, but if it gets me over this hurdle and motivates me to finish the kit it will be worth every penny!)
Colin
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Colin,
It should work too - the layshaft is made up in much the same way on my model of 11001, for exactly the reasons you suggest.
Steph
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Thats a great idea Steph, i have just ( last night ) done the crankshaft and balance weight on Steves (40126) Judith Edge class 06 kit..
I would have probably gone the route you took if i had known or thought of it
Rob
.I would have probably gone the route you took if i had known or thought of it
Rob
Intercity126
Western Thunderer
I think I'll also be buying a spare wheelset...
Thanks for the idea!
Edit: Now ordered - I guess Slaters will be wondering about the sudden surge in popularity of 0-2-0 locos.
Colin M
Western Thunderer
I was browsing on the net yesterday, and stumbled on some 06 photos that might be useful...
http://www.railblue.com/Class Headers v2.0/class_06V.2.htm
http://www.railblue.com/Class Headers v2.0/class_06V.2.htm