Osgood
Western Thunderer
And I thought I was the only one who didn't know why it was called that.
7mm Pencarrow - Cornish BR(S)
- Thread starter Pencarrow
- Start date
And I thought I was the only one who didn't know why it was called that.
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Thanks Mick, the valance in the original sat in a half etch groove on the underside of the footplate.
I've cleaned up the footplate:
I've clamped some aluminum strip to the side of the tanks to give a straight edge to solder down against.
I then added some L section to the underside of the footplate and soldered the valance to this.
Still not sure it's far enough back.
Making a start of the layout
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Not had a good few weeks on the modelling front. Nothing much on the 1366 and then last weekend I discovered mice had had there way with an old project in store. Very upsetting.
So after a week in the doldrums I decided that a change of tack was required. Some work on the layout itself.
So here is the plan of the left-hand side of the layout.
And after some measurements, photos of various items on the board.
So after a week in the doldrums I decided that a change of tack was required. Some work on the layout itself.
So here is the plan of the left-hand side of the layout.
And after some measurements, photos of various items on the board.
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Peter Cross
Western Thunderer
I experimented with foam it seems ok. Maybe denser. Glad you are getting back in the swing of things.
simond
Western Thunderer
Chris,
I used foam on the Greater Windowledge. It was thinner (~3mm) than that which you've used appears to be (6mm?). As far as I can recall, it was the stuff recommended by Norman Solomon in his articles in MRJ, and was quite stiff, and surprisingly expensive.
In the circumstances in which I used it, I'm not convinced that it offered any particular advantages over cork which I'm using on PD loco, although on a "main line" it might well improve running and reduce noise. It was closed cell, and therefore did not absorb the glue & go solid.
As a side effect, it did make track lifting quite easy - kettle full of very hot water... I guess this is not a primary consideration on Bodmin!
Best
Simon
I used foam on the Greater Windowledge. It was thinner (~3mm) than that which you've used appears to be (6mm?). As far as I can recall, it was the stuff recommended by Norman Solomon in his articles in MRJ, and was quite stiff, and surprisingly expensive.
In the circumstances in which I used it, I'm not convinced that it offered any particular advantages over cork which I'm using on PD loco, although on a "main line" it might well improve running and reduce noise. It was closed cell, and therefore did not absorb the glue & go solid.
As a side effect, it did make track lifting quite easy - kettle full of very hot water... I guess this is not a primary consideration on Bodmin!
Best
Simon
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Actually did some more work on the end board this morning. It was going to be messy and so the board was taken into the garage.
Whilst outside I put my mind to rest that the boards would still fit in the car boot after accidentally making them wider.
Yes, they do fit and in either direction.
Almost fits without putting the rear seats down.
Whilst outside I put my mind to rest that the boards would still fit in the car boot after accidentally making them wider.
Yes, they do fit and in either direction.
Almost fits without putting the rear seats down.
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Now then, the end board that I'm now intending to put the grain store on was, in my original Wenford themed layout plan, the entry from the fiddle yard. The fiddle was to be a traverser and was going to be let into the final 200mm of the scenic board. As such the last 200mm was set lower as can be seen in the car boot photo below.
Plans change and the grain store now occupies the space. Uming and arring about this I decided this morning to replace the end of the board with a taller piece of ply.
Step 1, cut down the end joint with a thin blade.
Step 2, remove the outer skin of ply between the spacer blocks. Big saw, no precision required!
Step 3, carefully remove the remaining outer bit of ply. I used a nice sharp chisel taking a layer or two of ply off at a time so as not to damage the spacer blocks.
Step 4, glue the new taller ply end on. I did remember to mark up the previous screw positions before starting the destruction.
Step 5, the screws were then put back in to counter-sunk and pilot hole drilled holes.
Step 6, the polystyrene stash was raided and the void filled ready for later hacking to let in the grain store.
That's better.
Plans change and the grain store now occupies the space. Uming and arring about this I decided this morning to replace the end of the board with a taller piece of ply.
Step 1, cut down the end joint with a thin blade.
Step 2, remove the outer skin of ply between the spacer blocks. Big saw, no precision required!
Step 3, carefully remove the remaining outer bit of ply. I used a nice sharp chisel taking a layer or two of ply off at a time so as not to damage the spacer blocks.
Step 4, glue the new taller ply end on. I did remember to mark up the previous screw positions before starting the destruction.
Step 5, the screws were then put back in to counter-sunk and pilot hole drilled holes.
Step 6, the polystyrene stash was raided and the void filled ready for later hacking to let in the grain store.
That's better.
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Geoff
Western Thunderer
Oh dear, I've just spent the last few weeks trying to get the idea of 7mm modelling out of my system, and then I made the mistake of reading your marvellous thread from beginning to end.
Superb modelling, interesting ideas and techniques, along with plenty of inspiration is making it difficult not to pre order a Lionheart 74XX, and take the plunge.
Superb modelling, interesting ideas and techniques, along with plenty of inspiration is making it difficult not to pre order a Lionheart 74XX, and take the plunge.
Dan Randall
Western Thunderer
Come on in Geoff - the water's lovely!
Edit: Perhaps this will push you over the edge?....
Julian Russell's "Wyebridge" (now under the capable ownership of Martyn Welch).
Regards
Dan
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Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Leading poor Geoff into temptation Simon!
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Thanks Geoff, glad it's been of some interest - my only regret is not breaking away from 4mm RTR and going 7mm much earlier. Go on, you know you want to.
Geoff
Western Thunderer
Geoff
There's a 74xx on the G0G sales & wants - page 3
Luckily for me, I don't have a password to view it!
He's not the only one Chris
You are right Chris, I would love to give it a go, but space is the problem. At the moment I have a cosy arrangement, a dedicated room into which I can wander at any time of the day. With no need to set anything up, or take anything down for a modelling or operating session. I could just about squeeze a smaller, 7mm version of Llangunllo in, but doubt that I could create the sort of open, railway in the landscape scene that I favour.
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Tonight's tedious news... Removing the foam underlay has begun in preparation for the cork tiles arriving. This was originally stuck down with heavy duty double sided carpet tape and I can certainly vouch for how well it works! Going to take a while, perhaps white spirit will help? A smelly activity for the garage rather than inside the house...
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Yes Geoff, there are certainly more compromises working in 7mm both cost and space restrict plans but it just needs the adoption of a different mindset. Less is more. I've swapped plans of long express trains in 4mm for two-coach branch workings. On the plus side you get an extra level of detail, greater mass a IMO better perspective. Glad I changed up although 'railway in landscape' is something I miss.
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Biting the bullet and putting a lot of elbow grease into removing the foam underlay.
The next time someone tells me that double sided tape doesn't stick very well I have the evidence to say it does.
I started bottom left of the photo and have refined the removal process since to get the tape off cleaner. I have found that white spirit is good at removing the final residual bits of foam and tape. Job for outside though as it stinks the house out.
The next time someone tells me that double sided tape doesn't stick very well I have the evidence to say it does.
I started bottom left of the photo and have refined the removal process since to get the tape off cleaner. I have found that white spirit is good at removing the final residual bits of foam and tape. Job for outside though as it stinks the house out.
Boards stripped off
