7mm On Heather's Workbench - Aintree Iron: an Austerity adventure
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
My point exactly. I can't get the model bits to fit where they are supposed to fit.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
An enjoyable five minutes or so and I have a false floor.
That'll help hide the pipework that doesn't actually disappear through the floor.
That'll help hide the pipework that doesn't actually disappear through the floor.
john lewsey
Western Thunderer
Hi Heather it looks really good to me I must pop by
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
The Ragstone draincocks arrived. From the photos, I opted for BR Standard ones, which sort of looked about right. I was wrong, as it turns out, and I couldn't see a way to make them look right. So, they are in the Bits Box, where they will eventually be used on a build of some sort.
First thing this morning - and I mean first thing, as I was at the bench well before 8am as we had some fencing contractors arriving to fix stuff today - I got a first coat of black paint on the backhead.
A second coat later, followed by some selective dry brushwork and weathering, and this will be ready to fit.
While the paint was drying, I had a think about the draincocks. Peering at the various photo resources I have, I thought I could make a pretty good representation from wire and tube.
I think that will do. I suppose there's no reason now to avoid fitting the cylinder block to the frames and get all the associated bits fitted for the motion.
First thing this morning - and I mean first thing, as I was at the bench well before 8am as we had some fencing contractors arriving to fix stuff today - I got a first coat of black paint on the backhead.
A second coat later, followed by some selective dry brushwork and weathering, and this will be ready to fit.
While the paint was drying, I had a think about the draincocks. Peering at the various photo resources I have, I thought I could make a pretty good representation from wire and tube.
I think that will do. I suppose there's no reason now to avoid fitting the cylinder block to the frames and get all the associated bits fitted for the motion.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
One side of the valve gear works! I'll finalise it, and fit the other side tomorrow. I think a short video might be nice, to celebrate my first proper Walschaerts valve gear assembly.
Things to note: some method of fixing the cylinder block in place is needed; the combination lever needs to be kinked to avoid clumping the front of the slide bars and seizing everything up; I am sure the etched radius rod is still the wrong length.
Things to note: some method of fixing the cylinder block in place is needed; the combination lever needs to be kinked to avoid clumping the front of the slide bars and seizing everything up; I am sure the etched radius rod is still the wrong length.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
My mojo needs a good kicking. I've tons to do, but I can't seem to make any progress.
Yesterday I was all about fitting the motion. I got both sides more or less fitted and fettled, but the fireman's side eccentric crank kept unwinding itself. I had tried to bush it and retap, but it wouldn't stay put. When I first acquired this kit, it was missing a crank. Having got a replacement from Laurie, I think there was a slight variation in the quality of the brass used for the casting which made the new one just a tad softer, letting the thread strip more easily.
I've asked for a new pair, so motion rigging is on hold for spell.
I sat down, then, to try and work out some of the odd details like the moisture traps on the vacuum pipes under the driver's side running plate. I also refitted the step I had knocked off the other day. While I had things upside down I refitted the injector parts that had come adrift during the build. I do seem to spend a lot of time refitting parts, even when I leave those likely to be damaged until later in the build.
That went okay, so perhaps the mojo was going to make a reappearance after all.
Lamp brackets over the front buffer plank seemed a logical next step. Apart from the vac brake stand, posed here for effect, that pretty much concludes the front detailing. Careful study of the photos of 90643 during its time late in life at Aintree showed an extra pair of outer lamp brackets, so I raided the Bits Box. I have no idea if extra brackets were fitted on the tender, so unless I find otherwise it shall remain with the orthodox amount!
Things to do on the running plate are the sandbox filler lids, which means it won't be long before I need to get the paint shop ready. It's amazing how quickly things come to a conclusion on some builds, after being in the doldrums for extended periods.
Yesterday I was all about fitting the motion. I got both sides more or less fitted and fettled, but the fireman's side eccentric crank kept unwinding itself. I had tried to bush it and retap, but it wouldn't stay put. When I first acquired this kit, it was missing a crank. Having got a replacement from Laurie, I think there was a slight variation in the quality of the brass used for the casting which made the new one just a tad softer, letting the thread strip more easily.
I've asked for a new pair, so motion rigging is on hold for spell.
I sat down, then, to try and work out some of the odd details like the moisture traps on the vacuum pipes under the driver's side running plate. I also refitted the step I had knocked off the other day. While I had things upside down I refitted the injector parts that had come adrift during the build. I do seem to spend a lot of time refitting parts, even when I leave those likely to be damaged until later in the build.
That went okay, so perhaps the mojo was going to make a reappearance after all.
Lamp brackets over the front buffer plank seemed a logical next step. Apart from the vac brake stand, posed here for effect, that pretty much concludes the front detailing. Careful study of the photos of 90643 during its time late in life at Aintree showed an extra pair of outer lamp brackets, so I raided the Bits Box. I have no idea if extra brackets were fitted on the tender, so unless I find otherwise it shall remain with the orthodox amount!
Things to do on the running plate are the sandbox filler lids, which means it won't be long before I need to get the paint shop ready. It's amazing how quickly things come to a conclusion on some builds, after being in the doldrums for extended periods.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Cheers Paul.
I could do that, but it might need a spot more re-engineering this late in the build than I'm prepared to do. I'm pretty much stuck with the standard Slater's 12BA crankpins for now. I shall file it away for future builds, though.
I could do that, but it might need a spot more re-engineering this late in the build than I'm prepared to do. I'm pretty much stuck with the standard Slater's 12BA crankpins for now. I shall file it away for future builds, though.
pete waterman
Western Thunderer
Sorry guys just caught up did you reverse the front top hat bearing ! as this gives you all the clearance you need. I tried on this kit to get the frames as close as I could to the real thing because you can see so much of them. It looks good but its a bit of a tight fit but reversing the top hat works. I have also seen a fantastic way of mounting the springs that Dave Baker has done and when I'm back in London will post some photos. There is a hell of lot of lamp iron positions by the way you need the book!
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Hi @pete waterman. Thanks for that. I actually ended up modifying some cast crankpins from CPL. I know JLTRT produces a similar set, so I'll remember that for next time! The first pair of axles needed recessed crankpin nuts to clear all the waggly bits.
Anyway, today's triumph - working valve gear that doesn't tie itself in knots or fall apart!
The little bits of wire hold the radius rods up. I am really hoping that once the running plate is installed and the reversing links fitted the radius rods won't perform that little jiggle they do now, at least not quite so markedly anyway!
As it turns out, I had to fit the eccentrics as @OzzyO suggested. I drilled out the eccentric and the top hat bearing to accept brass tube of sufficient OD and ID, soldered them all together and then tapped for 12BA. Additionally, I found I had to jiggle the eccentric rods a tiny bit so they wouldn't clout the eccentric crank. Oddly, I found this only happened in reverse, which caused a little episode of naughty language!
It's not perfect, there are definitely things I would do better next time, but I have learned a good deal along the way. For my first set of Walschearts gear, I think it worked out adequately.
Anyway, today's triumph - working valve gear that doesn't tie itself in knots or fall apart!
The little bits of wire hold the radius rods up. I am really hoping that once the running plate is installed and the reversing links fitted the radius rods won't perform that little jiggle they do now, at least not quite so markedly anyway!
As it turns out, I had to fit the eccentrics as @OzzyO suggested. I drilled out the eccentric and the top hat bearing to accept brass tube of sufficient OD and ID, soldered them all together and then tapped for 12BA. Additionally, I found I had to jiggle the eccentric rods a tiny bit so they wouldn't clout the eccentric crank. Oddly, I found this only happened in reverse, which caused a little episode of naughty language!
It's not perfect, there are definitely things I would do better next time, but I have learned a good deal along the way. For my first set of Walschearts gear, I think it worked out adequately.
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Hi Heather,
You seem to have set the video as private
You seem to have set the video as private
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Oops! Try it now, Rob.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I think it's the camera angle. I've checked against as many photos as I can find to get the crank angle to look right.
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Painting begins.
My favourite red oxide acrylic primer. I've switched to Holts over Halfords, partly because it lets me support a local independent hardware store which stocks it, partly because it's cheaper than Halfords, and partly because the finish is superb.
The tender has been in primer for a fair while, and it's pleasing to get the loco upper works to a similar level at last.
The intended finish is for the standard WD level of filth, and for the basic paint layer I am using my preferred Humbrol enamels. Normally, I would have painted the whole loco in matt black and gloss varnished areas for transfers. This time, I'm going to paint such area with gloss paint to save a step. To avoid the problems usually associated with airbrushing in and around fixtures and fittings, I'm applying a rough coat of matt by brush first.
My favourite red oxide acrylic primer. I've switched to Holts over Halfords, partly because it lets me support a local independent hardware store which stocks it, partly because it's cheaper than Halfords, and partly because the finish is superb.
The tender has been in primer for a fair while, and it's pleasing to get the loco upper works to a similar level at last.
The intended finish is for the standard WD level of filth, and for the basic paint layer I am using my preferred Humbrol enamels. Normally, I would have painted the whole loco in matt black and gloss varnished areas for transfers. This time, I'm going to paint such area with gloss paint to save a step. To avoid the problems usually associated with airbrushing in and around fixtures and fittings, I'm applying a rough coat of matt by brush first.
Pete Harvey
Active Member
Heather
Build looks very nice, have you used red oxide etching primer or just standard primer?
Pete
Build looks very nice, have you used red oxide etching primer or just standard primer?
Pete