7mm On Heather's Workbench - Aintree Iron: an Austerity adventure
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Sadly, I'm off the wine. Well, we had a bottle between us on Saturday, but otherwise this is a mainly dry house these days.
The Dubdee will take a back seat for a day or two while some other projects move forward. I shall win in the end!
The Dubdee will take a back seat for a day or two while some other projects move forward. I shall win in the end!
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Right, after a hiatus while other builds made varying degrees of progress, it was back to the bench with this loco.
The first job was to fit the oil boxes. I'd already cleaned everything up, and the brackets had been fixed to the running plate. I opted for 145 degree solder and careful application of heat from the RSU to fix the boxes in place. Of course, the question then arose of how to fit the oil pipes…
*wibble*
Yesterday, I managed to fit the pipes at the firebox end. In the real world, these drop down through the running plate on to the hornguides below. In the miniature world, I've fixed them to the floor where the firebox will sit. To accommodate the wire I shall carve a slot in the boiler casting. It won't really be visible, as it will be hidden by the oil box bracket and "pipework".
What I glossed over was how long the pipework took. It was fairly easy to wheedle a length of 0.4mm copper wire into the hole and apply a spot of cyano. What wasn't so easy was fitting the other four, because the Law of Sod tells us the first will be detached at any given moment when we think we are winning. Anyway, I finally got two sets of five pipes in place on the rear oil boxes.
I should say that my health seems to be playing up. I'm seeing the quack this week, because I am aware my blood pressure is much higher than normal. Struggling with fiddly pipework was not leaving me in a happy place yesterday, and when I tried to repeat the process on the next oil box along - one where you will see the pipes disappear into the frames - I had to walk away from the bench before I developed an aneurism.
Some quiet time later, the brain cell gave me a potential solution to my dilemma: how to fit wires into a small hole without knocking their neighbours out.
Solder the buggers together at one end, of course. True, the soldered end is wrong. The pipes splay out as they approach the hornguides, but as they won't actually be fitted into the hornguides this isn't my problem. All it means is it now becomes possible to hold five pipes at once, while fitting the other ends into their respective holes.
We really need a lightbulb emoticon!
Anyway, after a little more traditional effin' and jeffin', the pipes are fitted.
Yes, they're a little wonky. I can't do any better, I'm afraid. Lesson learned and all that.
What happens next is I await a delivery of cylinder draincock castings from Ragstone so I can complete that end of the detailing. Then I can set about fitting the motion, then fit the frames to the running plate. Then I can lose the pipework in the gloom - hopefully being able to trim them back without them pinging out of the oil boxes again…
Another step nearer to completion. The next job will be the back head and other cab details. I hope my blood pressure remains under control!
The first job was to fit the oil boxes. I'd already cleaned everything up, and the brackets had been fixed to the running plate. I opted for 145 degree solder and careful application of heat from the RSU to fix the boxes in place. Of course, the question then arose of how to fit the oil pipes…
*wibble*
Yesterday, I managed to fit the pipes at the firebox end. In the real world, these drop down through the running plate on to the hornguides below. In the miniature world, I've fixed them to the floor where the firebox will sit. To accommodate the wire I shall carve a slot in the boiler casting. It won't really be visible, as it will be hidden by the oil box bracket and "pipework".
What I glossed over was how long the pipework took. It was fairly easy to wheedle a length of 0.4mm copper wire into the hole and apply a spot of cyano. What wasn't so easy was fitting the other four, because the Law of Sod tells us the first will be detached at any given moment when we think we are winning. Anyway, I finally got two sets of five pipes in place on the rear oil boxes.
I should say that my health seems to be playing up. I'm seeing the quack this week, because I am aware my blood pressure is much higher than normal. Struggling with fiddly pipework was not leaving me in a happy place yesterday, and when I tried to repeat the process on the next oil box along - one where you will see the pipes disappear into the frames - I had to walk away from the bench before I developed an aneurism.
Some quiet time later, the brain cell gave me a potential solution to my dilemma: how to fit wires into a small hole without knocking their neighbours out.
Solder the buggers together at one end, of course. True, the soldered end is wrong. The pipes splay out as they approach the hornguides, but as they won't actually be fitted into the hornguides this isn't my problem. All it means is it now becomes possible to hold five pipes at once, while fitting the other ends into their respective holes.
We really need a lightbulb emoticon!
Anyway, after a little more traditional effin' and jeffin', the pipes are fitted.
Yes, they're a little wonky. I can't do any better, I'm afraid. Lesson learned and all that.
What happens next is I await a delivery of cylinder draincock castings from Ragstone so I can complete that end of the detailing. Then I can set about fitting the motion, then fit the frames to the running plate. Then I can lose the pipework in the gloom - hopefully being able to trim them back without them pinging out of the oil boxes again…
Another step nearer to completion. The next job will be the back head and other cab details. I hope my blood pressure remains under control!
Last edited:
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
In case anyone was worrying, I visited a GP this morning. She prodded, poked and assessed what I said. I am due a battery of tests to see if there's anything underlying which needs attention. I'm not dead yet!
Eventually I got back to the workbench. Today was the day I would face the backhead detailing. Once I'd worked out what the various bits were, or were supposed to be, I tried to make sense of where they were supposed to go.
Let's put it this way: most of the parts are there, just not necessarily in the right order.
Here's the main backhead casting. It's about the right shape, the regulator bit is pretty much right, as is the fire door. For the reworked BR loco, I need to add a shovel plate under the door. The various holes, which I dutifully drilled out, for the various castings are not quite in the right places - if the photos of the real thing are anything to go by. I shall deal with that by plugging them with low melt solder and marking out new ones.
Some castings. The manifold (steam fountain if you're of the Swindon persuasion) looks right. On the blutack, from left to right: ejector, steam brake, water gauge, something that's supposed to be the blower valve, water gauge, fireman's gauge plate, Detroit lubricator, and the Westinghouse brake (superfluous to requirements). At the bottom is the driver's set of gauges.
I appear to lacking a correct blower valve (the supplied one looks suspiciously like a Swindon thing), a continuous blowdown valve and a sanding valve. The instructions diagram also shows carriage warming equipment, but as most of the class were not so fitted this would probably only be useful if building a replica of the preserved WD.
The blower valve is utterly wrong, so I shall raid the Bits Box. Likewise for the sanding valve. The photos seem to show a patch on the cladding where the continuous blowdown valve was, so I shall leave that.
I need to move the water gauges closer to the regulator - again, these castings seem to be generic JLTRT Swindow style - and make suitable bracketry to support the ejector, gauges and Detroit bits. I guess that's Friday sorted then!
Eventually I got back to the workbench. Today was the day I would face the backhead detailing. Once I'd worked out what the various bits were, or were supposed to be, I tried to make sense of where they were supposed to go.
Let's put it this way: most of the parts are there, just not necessarily in the right order.
Here's the main backhead casting. It's about the right shape, the regulator bit is pretty much right, as is the fire door. For the reworked BR loco, I need to add a shovel plate under the door. The various holes, which I dutifully drilled out, for the various castings are not quite in the right places - if the photos of the real thing are anything to go by. I shall deal with that by plugging them with low melt solder and marking out new ones.
Some castings. The manifold (steam fountain if you're of the Swindon persuasion) looks right. On the blutack, from left to right: ejector, steam brake, water gauge, something that's supposed to be the blower valve, water gauge, fireman's gauge plate, Detroit lubricator, and the Westinghouse brake (superfluous to requirements). At the bottom is the driver's set of gauges.
I appear to lacking a correct blower valve (the supplied one looks suspiciously like a Swindon thing), a continuous blowdown valve and a sanding valve. The instructions diagram also shows carriage warming equipment, but as most of the class were not so fitted this would probably only be useful if building a replica of the preserved WD.
The blower valve is utterly wrong, so I shall raid the Bits Box. Likewise for the sanding valve. The photos seem to show a patch on the cladding where the continuous blowdown valve was, so I shall leave that.
I need to move the water gauges closer to the regulator - again, these castings seem to be generic JLTRT Swindow style - and make suitable bracketry to support the ejector, gauges and Detroit bits. I guess that's Friday sorted then!
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Steady progress so far this morning.
First, filling and cleaning up the errant holes. I did this with low melt solder and the iron set to about 180 degrees. I filled from the back of the casting first, then finished off on the front, followed by a fair bit of scraping to tidy things up.
And this is where I am at so far. Note one of the water gauges broke while being cleaned up and slightly modified. I think these are generic cast parts, not quite right for the WD, but they will pass. The fireman's gauge block has been modified. The supplied casting had three gauges, which would probably be correct for a loco fitted with carriage warming and air braking. For information, I am basing my reconstruction on a pair of photos that were published on page 91 of Austerity 2-8-0s & 2-10-0s by JWP Rowledge (Ian Allan 1987). These show as built and as modified by BR. In addition the photo from Dave B earlier in this thread which shows the preserved loco footplate.
Still to work out is a form of mounting bracket for the gauges, ejector and the Detroit lubricator. Yes, I know I posed it upside down on the blutack! Then I can fit the remaining pipework, make a shovel plate and tea can shelf and see if it all fits in the cab!
First, filling and cleaning up the errant holes. I did this with low melt solder and the iron set to about 180 degrees. I filled from the back of the casting first, then finished off on the front, followed by a fair bit of scraping to tidy things up.
And this is where I am at so far. Note one of the water gauges broke while being cleaned up and slightly modified. I think these are generic cast parts, not quite right for the WD, but they will pass. The fireman's gauge block has been modified. The supplied casting had three gauges, which would probably be correct for a loco fitted with carriage warming and air braking. For information, I am basing my reconstruction on a pair of photos that were published on page 91 of Austerity 2-8-0s & 2-10-0s by JWP Rowledge (Ian Allan 1987). These show as built and as modified by BR. In addition the photo from Dave B earlier in this thread which shows the preserved loco footplate.
Still to work out is a form of mounting bracket for the gauges, ejector and the Detroit lubricator. Yes, I know I posed it upside down on the blutack! Then I can fit the remaining pipework, make a shovel plate and tea can shelf and see if it all fits in the cab!
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
If the lack of swearing is anything to go by things must be sort of going according to plan!
As with many such builds - at least round here! - the pipe runs are notional. Where I can definitely make out where they go that's where I put them. If I can't, then I make a guess and lose things in the murk.
Still to work out are the blower valve and sanding valve. I have some ideas, and some bits and pieces. Again, it'll be notional, but it will kind of look right I hope.
As with many such builds - at least round here! - the pipe runs are notional. Where I can definitely make out where they go that's where I put them. If I can't, then I make a guess and lose things in the murk.
Still to work out are the blower valve and sanding valve. I have some ideas, and some bits and pieces. Again, it'll be notional, but it will kind of look right I hope.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Well, that seems to be most of the pipework done. The blower valve is a confection of a washer, some short lengths of brass tube, and a control lever casting from some kit or other. Just the shovel plate, tea can tray and the door opening mech and regulator to go.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
The lesson today is to make sure you measure things before you start!
Of course the backhead won't fit in the cab, being too wide with all the gubbins tacked on. Silly.
Being sensible, what I should have done is measure the opening before I started, and laid out some basic template to ensure I didn't get carried away. Luckily, most of the fittings come off again with little pain, though the lubricator has had some lopping of branches to help. The pipework that had been glued in came away rather too easily, and the bottom of the firebox casting has been filed back quite drastically. Photos of the real thing show the bottom washout plug half obscured by the floorboards, so that's what I've done.
Photos will come later, once I've reassembled things. Incidentally, I am tempted to fit a thin floor boarding, which will help the impression the pipework disappears below, rather than stopping short as it does now.
Of course the backhead won't fit in the cab, being too wide with all the gubbins tacked on. Silly.
Being sensible, what I should have done is measure the opening before I started, and laid out some basic template to ensure I didn't get carried away. Luckily, most of the fittings come off again with little pain, though the lubricator has had some lopping of branches to help. The pipework that had been glued in came away rather too easily, and the bottom of the firebox casting has been filed back quite drastically. Photos of the real thing show the bottom washout plug half obscured by the floorboards, so that's what I've done.
Photos will come later, once I've reassembled things. Incidentally, I am tempted to fit a thin floor boarding, which will help the impression the pipework disappears below, rather than stopping short as it does now.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I burned the midnight oil on Friday. I had got the bit between my teeth during the backhead assembly, and wanted to get as much finalised as possible before I turned in.
Then the Law of Sod glanced in my direction. The backhead wouldn't fit in the cab, and some charlie had fitted the cab roof…
So, off came some of the outer parts to be relocated inboard slightly. Off came the glued pipework, as most of it came a way as I reworked other bits. Off came some of the lovely details on the Detroit lubricator, as they stopped things sliding into place. Off came several millimetres of whitemetal to lower the backhead so it better represented the floor height, and allowed me to slide it into place.
During the works I displaced one of the front steps. Frankly I am amazed it had remained undamaged for this long. Rather fortuitously, it allows me space to fit the vacuum pipework on the rear of the buffer plank, so clouds and silver linings and all that.
There followed a couple of days of inertia - I believe they're called "weekends" - and a day out for medical stuff. It's now Tuesday, and I sit at the bench surveying the wreckage.
It could be worse. I think I should reassemble the backhead pipework, arrange to fit it properly in the cab along with the reverser, and sort out some thin flooring material to raise the floor level slightly to help hide the cut-off short pipework.
Then the Law of Sod glanced in my direction. The backhead wouldn't fit in the cab, and some charlie had fitted the cab roof…
So, off came some of the outer parts to be relocated inboard slightly. Off came the glued pipework, as most of it came a way as I reworked other bits. Off came some of the lovely details on the Detroit lubricator, as they stopped things sliding into place. Off came several millimetres of whitemetal to lower the backhead so it better represented the floor height, and allowed me to slide it into place.
During the works I displaced one of the front steps. Frankly I am amazed it had remained undamaged for this long. Rather fortuitously, it allows me space to fit the vacuum pipework on the rear of the buffer plank, so clouds and silver linings and all that.
There followed a couple of days of inertia - I believe they're called "weekends" - and a day out for medical stuff. It's now Tuesday, and I sit at the bench surveying the wreckage.
It could be worse. I think I should reassemble the backhead pipework, arrange to fit it properly in the cab along with the reverser, and sort out some thin flooring material to raise the floor level slightly to help hide the cut-off short pipework.
Last edited:
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Finished. I hope.
Is the bottom edge wonky? Hmm.
Is the bottom edge wonky? Hmm.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Phew!
Now, is it just me? The real thing has plenty of space and looks quite airy and spacious. Why does the model look so much more claustrophobic? Is it the problem with trying to scale real materials? It is the same problem I encounter with fitting solid cast model people into coach seats?