7mm MK1 Brake Goods

[farnetti]

A piccie of the buffer beam with several things fitted but a few more to go. I am glad that I am making it for a 1960-62 period so doesn't have all the other stuff needed when modelling a later period. there is a small hook to the left of the vacuum hose, another to the right below the buffer housing and the end step added. Together not very inspiring I know.

Thought I would fold up the carriage ends as shown here, inner and outer ends shown sat together before any other assembly.

And started on the roof. Fitted the cantrails and tweaked it a bit to sit down on the body. After a bit of filing a lovely fit.

There's a lot of holes there though to filled with things.

 

[farnetti]

This evening I fitted the outer ends to the shell thinking that a strong bodyshell, with ends and roof in temporarily place, would provide a fairly strong platform which I could support between my knees for the end details to be attached. Ho Hum.

The next pictures show the outer ends soldered in place and the roof temporarily fitted. The fit of the outer ends of the sides was great and allowed me to file the prototypical curved corners which are such a feature of the MK1 coaches. As the photos show, even though cantrail slots are snug to the roof and sides there is a small gap between ends and roof, something I am sure I can deal with when can I see how the inner ends fit.

 

[farnetti]

I wonder about how prolific other modellers are while I plod along. Anyway, I wanted to make sure that the body structure would all fit together before detailing.

I looked to a stage much later in the instructions where it states in bold "We now come to the point of the assembly where it is of the utmost importance to keep your work 'tight' and 'disciplined' ".

Good advice as I know I am easily capable of getting things wrong.



I love the way the kit is designed in that the inner shell is a very tight fit, so made of a thinner etch to aid assembly. This shows the inner body etch temporarily in place and with space for the inner to slide down.



And the inner end temporarily fitted showing the screwheads soldered in place.


Here I have taped the roof in place together with the inner shell and ends to check that it will still fit properly.


The rivet strip fitted to one side, there is still a gap between the roof and outer end to solve. I know it it not caused by a proud inner end as I tried the roof before fitting them. Otherwise everything is just lovely, jubbly.


Again, sorry about the photo, not enough light for decent depth of field. But it shows, like the last photo, the screws to hold the whole shebang together need to be shortened for the body to sit properly on the underframe. You can also see the gap between the inner and outer body shell where the glazing will sit.

I think these test fits as the build goes on make sense as the various parts will stiffen up as more details get added. The major one will be when the guards compartment is added to the inner shell.

Ken

 

[farnetti]

In the final assembly the roof is held down to the body and chassis by screws and nuts only at each end. I was concerned that towards the middle of the coach things might bow a little so have removed the tape except for the ends to see what happens.




As can be seen this has happened and will possibly be worse with the soldered fit rather than tape. The location tabs and slots are very fine but I think it will be solved with be solved with gentle tweaking of the sides and roof.

Ken

 

[Pugsley]

I wonder about how prolific other modellers are while I plod along.

I can only speak for myself on this - not very!

The coach is coming together nicely, those rounded corners really look the part.

 

[farnetti]

I can only speak for myself on this - not very!

The coach is coming together nicely, those rounded corners really look the part.

Glad I'm not the only one and hope to meet you again after the Bristol show.

Ken

 

[farnetti]

Just as an aside if any of think your track building isn't up to scratch watch this.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/MUCU2GhG8zE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I've never tried this before so hope you make sense of the link.

Ken

 

[farnetti]

Making up some bits for the coach ends, some folded up.

The small bits out of focus bottom right are the treads to be fitted to the steps, left. The twisted wire at the bottom is to simulate the chain for the buckeye couplers and the buffer extensions. I am not sure it looks right and have found 40 lpi chain from Ambis Engineering which may finer than any other I possess. I am hoping it may look better and fit through the tubes on the buffer beam and then

Ken attach to the tiny brackets on the coupler.

 

[john lewsey]

Looking really good

 

[farnetti]

Feeling a bit guilty as I haven't done much recently, brain concentrating on the house rebuild. But todays' local S7 meeting focused the mind so here is the latest. Photos and comment in no particular order.

First the bit I am least happy about.





Hare you can see the dynamo drive belt. The pulley is as near as it can be to the centre of the axle without fouling the brake gear but still fouls the safety hanger. I am so glad I don't manufacture kits, MMP are pretty much the best I have ever come across. You may notice I have changed the equaliser springs to somethings more in keeping.

These are the footboard steps, some laminated some yet to do.


Next the corridor connections.



The top photo shows many of the parts that go to make these up. The lower one shows the previous top left centre one with fabric attached (I bought some horribly expensive Loctite 480 Superglue for this). The fabric will (I hope) fold over a couple of times to attach to the outer door end, more later on this. The etched footplate will sit over the over the bottom of the connection to the left.

Finally, I have found some very fine chain, after much searching, from the very helpful Austin at Ambis Engineering.


I wanted fine chain to finish a couple of the wagons I had done on this site, and for the buffer beams on this coach. The chain in the middle looked to heavy and the twisted wire I fabricated didn't look like chain. Whether I can get it to work is a different matter, each link is just over 0.5mm long.

All good fun,

Ken

 

[daifly]

Finally, I have found some very fine chain, after much searching, from the very helpful Austin at Ambis Engineering.

That will be Alan Austin.

 

[djparkins]

Hare you can see the dynamo drive belt. The pulley is as near as it can be to the centre of the axle without fouling the brake gear but still fouls the safety hanger.

Ken -
Your dynamo appears too far inwards. See Simon's Build Photo -
http://www.7mmlocomotives.co.uk/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=2746

Evo-Stik for the gangway material - after parts have been painted - the black Solartex will NOT take paint.

Start saving up for the new John Mclaughlin Album in September!

Regards,

DJP/MMP

 

[farnetti]

Ken -
Your dynamo appears too far inwards. See Simon's Build Photo -
http://www.7mmlocomotives.co.uk/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=2746

Evo-Stik for the gangway material - after parts have been painted - the black Solartex will NOT take paint.

Start saving up for the new John Mclaughlin Album in September!

Regards,

DJP/MMP

I see why now, it is because I should have fitted the outer edge of part 39 flush with the outer edge of the solebar. I should have studied the diagram in the instructions more carefully. Will be a bit of a pig to sort out but hey-ho, my mistake.

Daifly, couldn't remember his first name, his 7mm products are sold by Hobby Holidays but found the chain on his own 4mm site.

Ken

 

[farnetti]

Revisited it again this morning realised it is not part 39 that is wrong. The limiting factor is the dynamo bracket part 41, the inner hanger of which has to be hard up against the inner solebar. Mine is, as is Simons and Heathers. (Sorry, the part numbers mean nothing to those who don't have a Mk1 kit but it is difficult to describe them otherwise).

The only adjustment I can make is to move the dynamo towards the outer end of the axle from which it hangs from part 41 (I mounted it centrally) and will gain me a millimetre or so.

I have used the Loctite as I was concerned that with the straight and curved glued areas of the Solartex I would need time for fiddling and adjustment. I wasn't sure Evostick, as a contact adhesive, would give me that time.

I had intended hand paint the corridor connections when finished and fit them later, I don't like gluing metal to paint.

David, pennies are going into the Piggy Bank ready for September, but Pat Metheny No.1 for me.

Ken

 

[farnetti]

Some photos of the primed coach interior. Various bits can't be added until painting complete as glazing is trapped in between them. I would be very grateful if anyone has information on interior colours circa 1960, floor, sides, roof and details in the guards compartment.

So below are the items to be fitted after painting, window frames, door, chair, sand buckets, fire extinguisher and gauge glasses


Next are a couple of the guards compartment which will be fitted to the interior shell after painting. I notice I have bent one of the periscope mechanisms in the first which I will rectify. Also shows the heater grill, periscope mirror, space where the buckets and extinguisher will sit and the rings for tethering dogs. The second shows food warmer and coat hook.



Here is an overall picture of the coach interior with all the window bars fitted and the guards compartment with desk, brake standard and letter rack in place.



Finally the door furniture. The hooks should be hung from chains but I gave in after a couple of attempts. Probably won't see much through the grimy windows anyway.

Nearly finished the roof and inner ends. Again if anyone has pictures or details of how the handrails extended from the coach ends onto the roof it would be very helpful.

Ken

 

[farnetti]

Forgot to attach the photo.

 

[Heather Kay]

Nearly finished the roof and inner ends. Again if anyone has pictures or details of how the handrails extended from the coach ends onto the roof it would be very helpful.

It depends a good deal on your chosen period. I can't locate information on early years, but would guess the only full height rail would be on the step side of the gangway. Any standard Mk1 end would suit here, bearing in mind there was no requirement to clamber up for toilet filler maintenance. The other side most likely was a simple commode type rail. Once the end steps were removed - sometime from the middle 1960s on for safety reasons below the 25kV overhead lines - the handrails were often truncated. Most recent images show short commode style handrails on the ends, with no steps at all.

Not sure if that helps!

 

[farnetti]

Thanks Heather, definitely on the step side only, just not sure of the shape as it bends over onto the roof.

Very, very impressed with the WD at Mark, better in the flesh than the photos.

Ken

 

[Heather Kay]

Thanks Heather, definitely on the step side only, just not sure of the shape as it bends over onto the roof.

I can't find a definitive example right now, but unless the handrail was also a filler pipe it would have been terminated in the end of the coach, above the step that crosses the gangway. As the BG doesn't have toilets, I doubt the handrail would extend on to the roof.

Very, very impressed with the WD at Mark, better in the flesh than the photos.

I am pleased with the way it turned out, and it was nice to get so many appreciative comments.

 

[farnetti]

Roof and inner ends done, another coat of primer needed.

Externally roof vents, gutters, corridor door handle and locks, roof handle and periscope housing.


Internally spare coupling, bike rack and emergency ladder.


Also, although MMP say it is included as a bit of fun, a tail lamp made up of 12 pieces. I used Loctite for this and needs cleaning up before painting. In any case the pressure from the spray can will probably send it flying into the farthest most reaches of the universe.


Now working on fitting all the pieces the external sides, door hinges and handles, door stops etc. According to Simon Varnam 228 pieces, do have a look at his website Building O Gauge Online if you are thinking of building an MMP kit, it is very helpful.

Ken