7mm Millicent Street
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Broad Sword
Western Thunderer
After all the well meaning speculations, let's get back to facts.
I intend to post a couple or so pages on my view of DCC wiring, so here goes page #1.
The very first thing to be established when the order is received for wiring a baseboard, is what is exactly required.
That would be in this case:- DCC, one control position, separately powered points and a quick completion date.
The points were first to be modified before the “plate layers” got at them. Loops were soldered into place between the switch rails and the stock rails. Then the switch rails were cut with a slitting disc to provide the crossing vee isolation area and loops installed there. The PECO spring and over size cover plate was removed from that area. All point positions were checked to make sure a hole had been drilled under the vee and its connection wire had been pushed through it. No I trust “plate layers” less than “fitters”! Three of the four points had a copper clad stretcher sleeper installed at the toe end, with a hole drilled centrally to accommodate the drive from the Tortoise point motor which was to be installed beneath the baseboard. The fourth point had its sleeper extended out board to reach over its motor which was to be installed at 90 degrees because of a leg obstruction. These motors were then prewired, soldered to their connecting strip with short lengths of 7/0.75mm single insulated wire to a 5 amp connector block to aid rapid motor changing. The supplied press on socket was not used as there had been trouble in the past with this type when it was found they could move side ways and cause a short circuit.
After the “plate layers” had finished, I checked with Colin that the specification had not been changed and I came in the next day to start work ALONE!
More tomorrow if allowed.
I intend to post a couple or so pages on my view of DCC wiring, so here goes page #1.
The very first thing to be established when the order is received for wiring a baseboard, is what is exactly required.
That would be in this case:- DCC, one control position, separately powered points and a quick completion date.
The points were first to be modified before the “plate layers” got at them. Loops were soldered into place between the switch rails and the stock rails. Then the switch rails were cut with a slitting disc to provide the crossing vee isolation area and loops installed there. The PECO spring and over size cover plate was removed from that area. All point positions were checked to make sure a hole had been drilled under the vee and its connection wire had been pushed through it. No I trust “plate layers” less than “fitters”! Three of the four points had a copper clad stretcher sleeper installed at the toe end, with a hole drilled centrally to accommodate the drive from the Tortoise point motor which was to be installed beneath the baseboard. The fourth point had its sleeper extended out board to reach over its motor which was to be installed at 90 degrees because of a leg obstruction. These motors were then prewired, soldered to their connecting strip with short lengths of 7/0.75mm single insulated wire to a 5 amp connector block to aid rapid motor changing. The supplied press on socket was not used as there had been trouble in the past with this type when it was found they could move side ways and cause a short circuit.
After the “plate layers” had finished, I checked with Colin that the specification had not been changed and I came in the next day to start work ALONE!
More tomorrow if allowed.
Broad Sword
Western Thunderer
Well it is now tomorrow and here goes chapter two.
Each baseboard was turned on its side and cramped to a small table. Some may like ducking under baseboards but if I don’t have to, I don’t!
I set to and first marked the underside of each baseboard side “RED” or “BLACK”. Then I calculated where wiring would run under the baseboard with regard to where the legs would fold up to. I was able to drill holes adjacent to the central cross member, which helped to keep everything symmetrical and tidy-ish.
In my philosophy, all rails to the rear or back of baseboards are black. Black is back, back is black get it? No! Oh well. Therefore all rails to the front are red! I mark the underside of each baseboard because it’s amazing how some, including me, don’t realise things reverse when you are looking up at a baseboard from underneath instead of down from above.
All fishplates had been looped and I made sure the two adjacent to each crossing vees were either plastic or non existent. I ran my test meter over the rails to make sure there were no short circuits before I started. I refer you back to my earlier comments on fitters.
Then all the drilled hole sites had the rail side in that area scraped and fluxed prior to tinning them.
The next job was to install a connector strip towards the rear of the layout and on that central cross member. Then it was out with my trusty staple gun. This gun retired with me from my last employer. It secures telephone cables with a hooped staple but if no cable is present, the hoop stands proud ready to accept wiring threaded through it.
Each baseboard was turned on its side and cramped to a small table. Some may like ducking under baseboards but if I don’t have to, I don’t!
I set to and first marked the underside of each baseboard side “RED” or “BLACK”. Then I calculated where wiring would run under the baseboard with regard to where the legs would fold up to. I was able to drill holes adjacent to the central cross member, which helped to keep everything symmetrical and tidy-ish.
In my philosophy, all rails to the rear or back of baseboards are black. Black is back, back is black get it? No! Oh well. Therefore all rails to the front are red! I mark the underside of each baseboard because it’s amazing how some, including me, don’t realise things reverse when you are looking up at a baseboard from underneath instead of down from above.
All fishplates had been looped and I made sure the two adjacent to each crossing vees were either plastic or non existent. I ran my test meter over the rails to make sure there were no short circuits before I started. I refer you back to my earlier comments on fitters.
Then all the drilled hole sites had the rail side in that area scraped and fluxed prior to tinning them.
The next job was to install a connector strip towards the rear of the layout and on that central cross member. Then it was out with my trusty staple gun. This gun retired with me from my last employer. It secures telephone cables with a hooped staple but if no cable is present, the hoop stands proud ready to accept wiring threaded through it.
Broad Sword
Western Thunderer
Episode three.
First the “black” holes were drilled at about a 45 degree angle under the track with the second red hole drilled a couple of sleepers away so as they will not meet each other under the baseboard. Each wire was projected through the baseboard by at least three or four inches. The through baseboard excess is so that my cable stripper can get in to grip them. Cable used was as stated before was 7/0.75mm sq. single insulated bought in 100m reels. Then all cables were stripped, twisted and tinned. Prior to soldering onto the rail, the end is bent at some 45 degrees so that it will rest hard against the rail. See rough sketch .
Finally they were soldered on to the rails and after a few seconds delay, pulled to test for “dry joints”. A loop is formed under the baseboard and any excess worked back towards the connector strip. There each wire is stripped, twisted and tinned; this is because I have discovered some screws in the connector blocks can cut the inserted wire. No more than five to each termination and if more are needed then a copper loop wire is made to loop to the next terminal.
You may have noticed by now I have not mentioned “Bus Bars”, well I have now and this the only time I am going to mention them! I don’t use them FULLSTOP!
In simple terms (for my benefit) each track is connected back to the, as mentioned above, connector strips and then all rail joint fishplates (except the insulated ones of course) are looped together.
Now for the “clever” bit, I hope.
Baseboard one had an audio socket fixed into a piece of aluminium angle mounted at its right hand end, adjacent to baseboard two. Baseboard two has a socket fitted at both ends and baseboard four, a solo socket at its left hand end.
Inter baseboard connections are via a short length of mains flat twin flex with an audio plug on each end. They are all the same; you use the first one out of the box.
Wiring from these sockets runs towards the aforementioned connector socket. Where it was agreed the controller would be situated, that audio socket was made into a twin one to allow access by that controller.
Moving on, the point switches were next to be installed, fastened to a strip of aluminium fixed across holes in the rear of the baseboard sides, opposite their respective point. The DPDT switches had a pair of red/black wires taken from a local connector strip which in turn takes its supply from a second set of the audio plug/sockets which bring in a power supply from a floor mounted plug in transformer. The output from each switch runs to a point motor local connector block. There is also pair of red/black DCC wires feeding the internal switch, and back out again via an orange wire, this goes to the connecting wire for that point vee. Why orange? It was the only other colour I had.
The points were tested first and all worked. I wasn’t interested if they didn’t throw all the way across, as that was a different department (guess who).
Then I plugged in an old H & M Duette and went around the layout with my meter. One point polarity was reversed; I don’t mind taking the blame for that. Finally I extracted a loco from one of Mally’s display cases and after cleaning the track, managed to make it run to every where it should.
This is just my way of working and I appreciated that it may not work but after four layouts of differing scales wired this way and no problems in five years I think I maybe able to relax now.
So that’s it, job signed off to track painters and onwards for ballasting. Oh yes and scenery!
First the “black” holes were drilled at about a 45 degree angle under the track with the second red hole drilled a couple of sleepers away so as they will not meet each other under the baseboard. Each wire was projected through the baseboard by at least three or four inches. The through baseboard excess is so that my cable stripper can get in to grip them. Cable used was as stated before was 7/0.75mm sq. single insulated bought in 100m reels. Then all cables were stripped, twisted and tinned. Prior to soldering onto the rail, the end is bent at some 45 degrees so that it will rest hard against the rail. See rough sketch .
Finally they were soldered on to the rails and after a few seconds delay, pulled to test for “dry joints”. A loop is formed under the baseboard and any excess worked back towards the connector strip. There each wire is stripped, twisted and tinned; this is because I have discovered some screws in the connector blocks can cut the inserted wire. No more than five to each termination and if more are needed then a copper loop wire is made to loop to the next terminal.
You may have noticed by now I have not mentioned “Bus Bars”, well I have now and this the only time I am going to mention them! I don’t use them FULLSTOP!
In simple terms (for my benefit) each track is connected back to the, as mentioned above, connector strips and then all rail joint fishplates (except the insulated ones of course) are looped together.
Now for the “clever” bit, I hope.
Baseboard one had an audio socket fixed into a piece of aluminium angle mounted at its right hand end, adjacent to baseboard two. Baseboard two has a socket fitted at both ends and baseboard four, a solo socket at its left hand end.
Inter baseboard connections are via a short length of mains flat twin flex with an audio plug on each end. They are all the same; you use the first one out of the box.
Wiring from these sockets runs towards the aforementioned connector socket. Where it was agreed the controller would be situated, that audio socket was made into a twin one to allow access by that controller.
Moving on, the point switches were next to be installed, fastened to a strip of aluminium fixed across holes in the rear of the baseboard sides, opposite their respective point. The DPDT switches had a pair of red/black wires taken from a local connector strip which in turn takes its supply from a second set of the audio plug/sockets which bring in a power supply from a floor mounted plug in transformer. The output from each switch runs to a point motor local connector block. There is also pair of red/black DCC wires feeding the internal switch, and back out again via an orange wire, this goes to the connecting wire for that point vee. Why orange? It was the only other colour I had.
The points were tested first and all worked. I wasn’t interested if they didn’t throw all the way across, as that was a different department (guess who).
Then I plugged in an old H & M Duette and went around the layout with my meter. One point polarity was reversed; I don’t mind taking the blame for that. Finally I extracted a loco from one of Mally’s display cases and after cleaning the track, managed to make it run to every where it should.
This is just my way of working and I appreciated that it may not work but after four layouts of differing scales wired this way and no problems in five years I think I maybe able to relax now.
So that’s it, job signed off to track painters and onwards for ballasting. Oh yes and scenery!
Rippers
Western Thunderer
Trips to Perth and other projects aside (we have been restoring a 1970's Hornby coin operated layout at the same time as doing this!
) we are now back on with the layout.
This shows the full extent of what will eventually be the scnic section with a few of the mock up structures in their respective places. The terrace at the far end and fish shop are as intended though the arangement around the pub will be subject to some changes in arangement as new information (and more interesting local structures) comes to hand.
The area to the rear and the right of the fish shop will be landscaped to show the foundations and remains of outbuildings of the bombed out original this temporary structure replaced.
Of course it isnt only the layout we are considering many of the detail parts are already in hand. Such as this scratch built H&B buffer stop crafted by Tappa using drawing and many photos of the real deal generously sent our way. (cheers Mick).
) we are now back on with the layout. This shows the full extent of what will eventually be the scnic section with a few of the mock up structures in their respective places. The terrace at the far end and fish shop are as intended though the arangement around the pub will be subject to some changes in arangement as new information (and more interesting local structures) comes to hand.
The area to the rear and the right of the fish shop will be landscaped to show the foundations and remains of outbuildings of the bombed out original this temporary structure replaced.
Of course it isnt only the layout we are considering many of the detail parts are already in hand. Such as this scratch built H&B buffer stop crafted by Tappa using drawing and many photos of the real deal generously sent our way. (cheers Mick).
adrian
Flying Squad
Nice to see the progress it's looking promising - but what caught my eye though was the Matchless in the corner. A few more details and photo's would be appreciated. Unfortunately I don't have the room or spare cash for a classic bike but would love to experience it. I've been looking at hiring something similar for pootling around the Dales just for a bit of fun.
Rippers
Western Thunderer
Cheers!
lets not wander off into a really unreated topic!
- surfice to say occasionally between layouts projects (or at the same time as) we can also be found stripping down such beasties or indeed trying to find the faults when putting them back togther. A few of us have 4 wheel classics too.I have dropped you a pm regarding the bikes - cheers
Broad Sword
Western Thunderer
Just to show that the electricians are still working Saturdays, I was down at the shed, early, too early for Mally evidently! I was there to tidy wiring that the joiner and the fitter had "moved".
Just I was leaving it started to rain but I put on a happy face and walked home and got slightly wet. I shall return on Monday to install this DCC socket and hopefully take some photos.
Keep watching.
Just I was leaving it started to rain but I put on a happy face and walked home and got slightly wet. I shall return on Monday to install this DCC socket and hopefully take some photos.
Keep watching.
micknich2003
Western Thunderer
Here's a real H&B buffer stop, and complete with a genuine H&B engine, as you can see "Tappa" has done a good job.
Rippers
Western Thunderer
Well another week and another pack of biscuits (plus Key Lime Pie this evening ) and things are starting to progress....
The trackwork is starting to be aged to represent older dried out sleepers (rather than shiny brown plastic) by way of some patient dry brush work ....still some way to go though before we get on with the weeding.......
Elsewhere an off the cuff suggestion last week that in reference to an overgrown structure that still exists we could include the derelict remains of the outbuildings that would have been at the rear of the original fish shop prior to its bombing, subsequent demolition and replacement with the temporary structure, has elicited this basic structure already to fill said roll (wash house, coal house and lavatory)........ when finished it will have the remains of the interior fittings and doors plus about 3 slates on the roof!
Also suggested and started by Tappa (to a lesser degree) is a scratchbuilt grounded H&B van body whish will act as the sack store in the domestic coal yard. The pattern chosen is that of the evergreen Triang representation of same in deference to the many 4mm ones which have ended their modelling days as similar grounded structures.................... though in our case without the pale blue paint and 'fine fish' lettering!
) and things are starting to progress....The trackwork is starting to be aged to represent older dried out sleepers (rather than shiny brown plastic) by way of some patient dry brush work ....still some way to go though before we get on with the weeding.......
Elsewhere an off the cuff suggestion last week that in reference to an overgrown structure that still exists we could include the derelict remains of the outbuildings that would have been at the rear of the original fish shop prior to its bombing, subsequent demolition and replacement with the temporary structure, has elicited this basic structure already to fill said roll (wash house, coal house and lavatory)........ when finished it will have the remains of the interior fittings and doors plus about 3 slates on the roof!
Also suggested and started by Tappa (to a lesser degree) is a scratchbuilt grounded H&B van body whish will act as the sack store in the domestic coal yard. The pattern chosen is that of the evergreen Triang representation of same in deference to the many 4mm ones which have ended their modelling days as similar grounded structures.................... though in our case without the pale blue paint and 'fine fish' lettering!
micknich2003
Western Thunderer
Here's an insperation for the weeds, Cannon Street H&B June 1965, and also a bit of resleepering going on.
micknich2003
Western Thunderer
Neil, I have had a close look at the point to right of the picture, it looks to be a genuine H&B job, complete with interlaced timbers and "Heel" switches. I have some original drawings.
Broad Sword
Western Thunderer
Photographs at last of wiring but as the layout is becoming heavy now and I don't think it will stand me banging it on the ground as I try and make accessible, ballast falling off and all that. These photos where taken with yours truly lying on the floor and pointing the camera upwards.
#1 This photo is actually of Hospital Gates but it shows the lengths of mains flat twin cable with an audio plug on each end to loop between baseboards. (any colour you like will do!)
#2 Sockets so as the extra small section of baseboard is connected.
#3 A twin socket so as power can be introduced.
#4 Point DPDT switches
That's all for now folks.
#1 This photo is actually of Hospital Gates but it shows the lengths of mains flat twin cable with an audio plug on each end to loop between baseboards. (any colour you like will do!)
#2 Sockets so as the extra small section of baseboard is connected.
#3 A twin socket so as power can be introduced.
#4 Point DPDT switches
That's all for now folks.
micknich2003
Western Thunderer
As a reflection of the importance and former glory of Millicent Street, it might be an idea to retain a signal, now sans arm but fitted with a "Stop Board", and as for example as happened at Springhead in May 1944. At Springhead the former signalbox was retained as a Shunters Lobby. Pictures attached.
View attachment 33952View attachment 33952
View attachment 33952View attachment 33952
micknich2003
Western Thunderer
Further to my above comments, attached a drawing of the actual signal in question. Also attached, a typical H&B bracket, and if Millicent Street had ever had signals, it could well have had one or more. Possibly, and when I go to "The Hut" tonight it will be suggested I pick up my tools and get on with it.
Rippers
Western Thunderer
A busy evening with both visitors (modellers of Japanese railways in N Gauge by all acounts) and home baked offerings (fruit cake and chocolate cookies) to deal with.
However Tappa's van body is looking a lot more together.........
.............and my efforts at mking the sleepers look more like worn wood and less like Peco plastic finally appears to be getting somewhere.......
The weeds will be taking over next week!
Oh yes and now you can see just how well equiped our workshop can be..............as Broadsword demonstrates.......
However Tappa's van body is looking a lot more together.........
.............and my efforts at mking the sleepers look more like worn wood and less like Peco plastic finally appears to be getting somewhere.......
The weeds will be taking over next week!
Oh yes and now you can see just how well equiped our workshop can be..............as Broadsword demonstrates.......