Mike G's Workspace.

[Mike Garwood]

I could not continue with the bunker on a slant. So, I un-soldered the lot and started again. In cleaning up the castings I must have done something right, because the bunker is now square. Having got over this hurdle, it appeared to me that adding a lot of the small detail would be a good idea before soldering in the main parts. Things like handrails and the such. The downside of this is that I sent for etches to PPD nearly a week ago and apart from an acknowledgement of receipt...nothing. There are quite a few upgrades on this artwork including steps for the cab and mid footplate and steps that go on the front of the water tanks. Bearing in mind there is a time constraint involved (the painting countdown has begun), getting these etches is a bit of a priority.



I glued the chimney on last night and deliberately over did it as you can see. I spread some Vaseline around the lower lip of the chimney, so that shouldn't prove too difficult to strip off. The rest will come off with with a fibre brush. The boiler and smokebox are just resting and not fitted as yet. The next step will be to fit even smaller detail - the lamp irons - from the Masokits range. Front, mid and bunker.
One of the problems that that has been really annoying has been the 0.5mm drills snapping when half way thru the process. Now I was hand drilling these and I'm now wondering if I should have used a high speed drill (Dremell) instead - thoughts? Adding the lamp irons will require drilling a number of small holes, before solder is applied.



I did try a fit of the chassis to the body now that the buffer beams are in, no problems found. Also the lovely etch that Justin has done for the rear windows of the bunker have also been trial fitted. This wasn't quite so easy, especially as I had been so stupid to solder in the large lump of WM that represents the coal bulk head...and it needed thinning to get the etch anywhere near the rear of the cab. Out with the P4 modelling file and before too long I had a nice fit. So that's where I am now.

I would like to know if I'm right about the drills, so please don't hold back.

Stay safe

Mike.

 

[simond]

Mike,

I claim no expertise, but drilling WM I typically use a hand drill - Archimedes type - and lubricate the bit with a drop of spit.

and I seem to get away with it!

best
Simon

 

[Nick Rogers]

I've always thought that modeling was about growing, either experience or knowledge.

These were something from the early 00's marketed by that good egg Gordon Ashton. They are a good sprung system, the County, 8f and Std 4 tank uses this - each wheel has it's own sprung unit. I'll put some photos up as I go along with the rebuild. Which reminds me to order some more from Gordon.

Mike.

Morning Mike,

Ah! Good old Mr Ashton! I will have to message him and see if he has any for me to have a go with. I do have a part-built P4 High Level 57xx chassis, which uses HL springing. I really should dig that out and finish it. Dear old Brian Pearce was quite a big advocate for sprung tender chassis. A part-built School's loco (a mixture of scratch-built and various kit parts) is in my care, and it has a fully sprung tender chassis, all scratch-built. It runs like a dream.

Best wishes,

 

[45609]

White metal does not get cleared by the drill flutes effectively, especially on small sizes. Slow and steady by hand with a little lubrication is the best approach. As soon as you feel the drill tightening (i.e. needing more effort to twist the chuck) back it out and clear the white metal swarf from the drill flutes. Of course, always use a sharp drill.

 

[Andrewnummelin]

Mike,

I claim no expertise, but drilling WM I typically use a hand drill - Archimedes type - and lubricate the bit with a drop of spit.

and I seem to get away with it!

best
Simon

I agree completely: no overheating and no wobbling. It’s altogether different if you are drilling something hard, then high speed is needed - Dremel, or similar, in a drill press with 10000 to 20000 rpm and small drills (0.3 - 0.5mm) will go through etched kit bits like butter.

 

[Mike Garwood]

Morning Mike,

Ah! Good old Mr Ashton! I will have to message him and see if he has any for me to have a go with. I do have a part-built P4 High Level 57xx chassis, which uses HL springing. I really should dig that out and finish it. Dear old Brian Pearce was quite a big advocate for sprung tender chassis. A part-built School's loco (a mixture of scratch-built and various kit parts) is in my care, and it has a fully sprung tender chassis, all scratch-built. It runs like a dream.

Best wishes,

Nick
Gordon has no stock. And is not likely to reorder….l have a plan.

Mike

 

[Captain Kernow]

Mike,
One more voice to add to those advocating drilling by hand, with a sharp drill bit and spit lubrication.
On the subject of lamp irons, I always use 5 minute epoxy, with the more vulnerable ones additionally secured in place by soldering a tiny, discreet spigot of 0.4mm wire to the back of the lamp, which is glued into a corresponding hole, drilled into the bodywork. Epoxy is so much easier to make adjustments to the position, before it hardens, than superglue or soldering.

 

[Mike Garwood]

Life and work have a nasty habit of getting in the way of enjoying yourself. Here in S Wales it's half term - so no Grandchildren duties - but there's quite a healthy list of household repairs to be completed. Having got the list almost to zero, I can relax and have a few hours to myself.

The order from PPD has been delayed due to my own forgetfulness, having completed all the hatching, I forgot to assign an appropriate layer to the hatching. No wonder PPD couldn't proceed. Sorted now and I'm waiting for PPD to confirm the manufacture.

Today has seen a fair bit of soldering, the lamp irons have gone in on the front footplate and smokebox. The smokebox, half boiler and firebox have also been attached as has the rear of the bunker. The filling process has started, this is going to be a long and delicate process, if this models going to look like the prototype.



I've used 2 different types of filler, good old trusty Milliput and Vallejo. Milliput is a quite stiff filler and needs to be pressured into position (as if you didn't know). Vallejo is quite runny and needs to be pushed into position. Milliput doesn't shrink on drying, the other does, so requires a touch up once completely dry. And I've just noticed that one of the handrails needs re-soldering.



You can see where the Milliput has gone into the bunker seams. This needs a lot more work to be completed and a good appearance should show thru. The rear lamp irons have been made and as soon as this filling job is completed, to my satisfaction, then they will go in next. I've also been cleaning some of the smaller castings, the detail on these is really quite good.

And thanks to everyone for the drilling tips.

So here's hoping PPD can get the job done - without me having to do more remedial PC work. And get it delivered really quickly.

Stay safe

Mike.

 

[Mike Garwood]

For those of you that are interested in Gordon Ashton's springing unit, here are some details. I contacted Gordon a few weeks ago and these units are now unavailable...so,



From left to right...

I call these mouses ears but they are the retaining etch soldered onto the bearing. The bearings have 2 options, The Perserverance square bearing or the MJT square bearing. Perserverance - gone (and I couldn't find anywhere on the web either), the MJT bearing is out of stock (and has been for some time). Fortunately, I found a new packet of 6 on flea bay...PHEW!
These should be soldered on with solder paste, mine went dry years ago and have never bothered to re-stock, so tinning it was. The main etch is provided with 2 lengths of springing, either 25mm and 15mm. I've always used the 15mm version. I was using this system right up until the intro of CSB's. The surrounds for the bearing are there to stop the bearing rotating. The set of MJT bearings were so good a fit with no horizontal movement (slop). You only really need one leg to stop rotation of the bearing.
The 'wings' of the main etch allow height adjustment (according to weight and height of the chassis and body) - I've always used the second hole down, using 10 thou steel wire (Ernie Ball guitar wire).



Apart from the wire, this is the finished thing. This system has worked well for me in the past...and I'm hoping it will dig me out of a hole with the Grange chassis. I do have plans for something similar, but I need to speak with Gordon before going further, not that it will be a commercial thing.

Stay safe

Mike.