7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench

mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Finally, the roof is smooth, cruel quick bench shots I'm afraid, this won;t get painted because a small piece of debris in the tank has blocked the LED which results in a small tube/hole right in the middle of the print. You can just see it to the front right of the whistle depression.

Unfortunately that's right on a line of rivets so near impossible to fill and smooth without collateral damage, such are the woes of long prints

On the upside, the metal casing project is still on track and I can now progress the other aspects.

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IMG_11714.jpg

Note to self, stop being so lazy and wash the print before posting :))
 
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mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
OzzyO said:
Mick

could you use a Scale Hardware rivet to fix it?

ATB

OzzyO.
Click to expand...
The rivets at 0.2 mm dia and the bolt heads are 0.4 mm AF, I doubt they have anything that small, besides, by the time you've faffed about filling, smoothing and blending all those....and I doubt you'd get them to match......you could print a new one and not lift a finger. Of course, the new one may come with new issues, such is the way with 3D printing.
 
simond

simond

Western Thunderer
mickoo said:
Recycle or leave to evaporate is the best way.

Tipping it down the drain is not be the best way to dispose of it, especially if it's been used for 3D resin cleaning, some of those resins are quite toxic to the eco system. I tip mine into an old 5 litre IPA bottle and just and leave the top off. The IPA evaporates and leaves the resin sludge which over time turns solid due to exposure with UV. Once solid it can then be disposed of in normal household waste.

Mind there are washable resins and I'm sure less toxic ones, I wouldn't personally wash washable ones and dispose of the water in any drain myself but other people seem to have no qualms.

I'll look into the IPA light/heater units, might have a need for some of them in the summer eve's :thumbs:
Click to expand...

after stubbornly refusing to believe that it was not sensible to simply dispose, I spent a chilly half hour in the garden failing to filter my ipa to a useful standard.

this leads to

option a) follow the experience of others

option b) invest in better filtering capability, and do it more frequently.

option a beckons…
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
simond said:
after stubbornly refusing to believe that it was not sensible to simply dispose, I spent a chilly half hour in the garden failing to filter my ipa to a useful standard.

this leads to

option a) follow the experience of others

option b) invest in better filtering capability, and do it more frequently.

option a beckons…
Click to expand...
You can lead a horse to water...stand on it's $%* head....and it'll still refuses to drink :headbang:

Throw it in an old baking tray or margarine tub (I use and old IPA 5L tub with the lid left off) and just leave it outside for a week (best undercover so rain doesn't mix in) and then get on with life, it's too bloody short to be messing around with this :D

The IPA will evaporate, the resin will harden and then it's safe to throw in the household waste, let nature and chemistry do the hard work, not you.
 
dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
I like the sound of pushing a button! It would be nice to be able to do that with my concrete signal posts for Basford....
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
dibateg said:
I like the sound of pushing a button! It would be nice to be able to do that with my concrete signal posts for Basford....
Click to expand...
Got a drawing, easy enough to draw up and print off.

Probably not the best medium mind but perfectly possible and a reasonable substitute, leave a 1 - 1.2 mm hole down the middle for some NS wire to keep them straight would help; that'd also allow soldering of brass base plate and any platforms needed if they were bracket signals etc. You can add clamps and other fittings to the print as well.

Free your mind! That's really the only motto for 3D printing.

I did these for Ian Allen from his artwork, needed a few tweaks to make then viable as a printed model but came out really nice. This was a pre-production test print so not post processed or cleaned up too well.

IMG_1524.jpg

IMG_1525.jpg

IMG_1526.jpg

IMG_1527.jpg

The shrouds ended up around 0.4 mm thick for rigidity, slightly over scale and brass 5 thou might have been better (but probably not much stronger in all honesty) but then you'd have to work out some way to attach them.

Often it's better to take a slight hit in thickness for ease of printing and made as one whole item, less hassle and faffing around later.
 
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dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
mickoo said:
Got a drawing, easy enough to draw up and print off.

Probably not the best medium mind but perfectly possible and a reasonable substitute, leave a 1 - 1.2 mm hole down the middle for some NS wire to keep them straight would help; that'd also allow soldering of brass base plate and any platforms needed if they were bracket signals etc. You can add clamps and other fittings to the print as well.

Free your mind! That's really the only motto for 3D printing.

I did these for Ian Allen from his artwork, needed a few tweaks to make then viable as a printed model but came out really nice. This was a pre-production test print so not post processed or cleaned up too well.

View attachment 179004

View attachment 179005

View attachment 179006

View attachment 179007

The shrouds ended up around 0.4 mm thick for rigidity, slightly over scale and brass 5 thou might have been better (but probably not much stronger in all honesty) but then you'd have to work out some way to attach them.

Often it's better to take a slight hit in thickness for ease of printing and made as one whole item, less hassle and faffing around later.
Click to expand...
Good idea Mick -

I'll e-mail ya, and we can work out pressing another button....
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Lancastrian said:
Mick,

I have some 0.4mm rivets. I can pop a few in the post to you next week if you'd like.

Ian
Click to expand...
Cheers but too big, need 0.2.

The solution is really simple, bin this one and print a new one, far less hassle and significantly faster than faffing around trying to fix this one.

Whilst the printer is doing it's thing I'm happily working on the JLTRT King tender.

Work smarter, not harder ;)
 
simond

simond

Western Thunderer
Pigs’ ears.

so the driver can see the signal indication when stationary next to it.. they have a similar arrangement on French traffic lights.
 
simond

simond

Western Thunderer
mickoo said:
You can lead a horse to water...stand on it's $%* head....and it'll still refuses to drink :headbang:

Throw it in an old baking tray or margarine tub (I use and old IPA 5L tub with the lid left off) and just leave it outside for a week (best undercover so rain doesn't mix in) and then get on with life, it's too bloody short to be messing around with this :D

The IPA will evaporate, the resin will harden and then it's safe to throw in the household waste, let nature and chemistry do the hard work, not you.
Click to expand...

sometimes you have to try these things out for yourself…
 
Big Train James

Big Train James

Western Thunderer
simond said:
option a) follow the experience of others

option b) invest in better filtering capability, and do it more frequently.
Click to expand...
simond said:
sometimes you have to try these things out for yourself…
Click to expand...
Sometime today, I aim to write up my cleaning process for the waste materials. I'll probably put it in the 3d printing thread though. It will at least provide one perspective on the "clean and filter my alcohol" alternative.
 
Big Train James

Big Train James

Western Thunderer
Simon, thanks for the answer on the signals. I thought they might be something along those lines, but I couldn't figure out who the user would be. In North American practice, trains usually sit well short of signals when they are forced to hold for whatever reason.
 
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