7mm Heybridge Basin
- Thread starter Richard Gawler
- Start date
Joe's Garage
Western Thunderer
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
Of course!
The entire hut is a one-piece 3D print. I posted a photo when the model arrived (because it rather exceeded my expectations) and there are more posts when I painted it.
I think I painted the roof twice. There is silver in there as well as a darkish iron colour so it catches the light when I see it from different angles. From Narrow Minded Railworks via eBay.
Joe's Garage
Western Thunderer
Thanks Richard. I was hoping you may have said you made the hut and used such and such model corrugated sheet. I need to simulate similar on my hut on the "Another Attempt" thread.
I might even use a simulated roofing felt as the building is not that big.
Very nice building though.
Cheers Julian
I might even use a simulated roofing felt as the building is not that big.
Very nice building though.
Cheers Julian
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
Thank you Graham.
The print of the hut gives you the metal parts of the original - you have to provide your own plinth. I felt that if I was using 14 BA and M0,8 hardware on a locomotive then I needed to pay similar attention to detail to the plinth. This is brick embossed styrene over strip wood. Sorry but I kept only this one photo.
I still haven't glued the hut onto its plinth but the model has fallen onto the floor a couple of times. The resin is more brittle than styrene and doesn't bounce too well. The trouble is, I want to be able to lift the hut out of the way when I (eventually) put a fence along behind it, so still no glue. The loose hair has brushed off.
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
I laid all of the ballast in three sessions, which was quicker than I had feared.
The GER used ash for their branch lines. I wanted something more cheerful so I went for sifted bird grit with minor additions for the running lines. The glue has rather brought out the colours in this.
Filling back to masking tape for the outer end of Module B.
This end goes up to the fiddle yard but, like a smart gnome, I want it neat and tidy.
The mating end of the main baseboard got a strip of Araldite to neaten things up. The rail ends are soldered onto brass screws, the nearer one is just visible.
Slips of white postcard. If I was younger (better eyesight) I would have used black card but it was easier to run black paint over these before the ballast went down. The point blades work but filing could be better next time.
I am glad I went for full-thickness sleepers because they allow for variation in the coverage by the ballast.
I have ballasted the siding to the tops of the sleepers to reduce trip hazards.
The "hoggin" ground surface will take some weathering or even complete resurfacing one day, but the levels are right.
A wide-angle lens makes a Setrack point look amazing.
Still happy.
I knew the ballasting could make this layout or ruin it completely. This is another reason why it I have put it off for so long. Still, I think the result is reminiscent of what is extracted from the gravel pits around here, so I will call this a success. A big relief to be honest.
The GER used ash for their branch lines. I wanted something more cheerful so I went for sifted bird grit with minor additions for the running lines. The glue has rather brought out the colours in this.
Filling back to masking tape for the outer end of Module B.
This end goes up to the fiddle yard but, like a smart gnome, I want it neat and tidy.
The mating end of the main baseboard got a strip of Araldite to neaten things up. The rail ends are soldered onto brass screws, the nearer one is just visible.
Slips of white postcard. If I was younger (better eyesight) I would have used black card but it was easier to run black paint over these before the ballast went down. The point blades work but filing could be better next time.
I am glad I went for full-thickness sleepers because they allow for variation in the coverage by the ballast.
I have ballasted the siding to the tops of the sleepers to reduce trip hazards.
The "hoggin" ground surface will take some weathering or even complete resurfacing one day, but the levels are right.A wide-angle lens makes a Setrack point look amazing.
Still happy.
I knew the ballasting could make this layout or ruin it completely. This is another reason why it I have put it off for so long. Still, I think the result is reminiscent of what is extracted from the gravel pits around here, so I will call this a success. A big relief to be honest.
timbowales
Western Thunderer
Well done, Sir
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Looks very neat. 
Joe's Garage
Western Thunderer
Lovely looking ballast Richard
Cheers Julian
Cheers Julian
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
Thank you to everyone for your continued support!
With the ballast done, all of the remaining scenic tasks on the baseboards are detailing of one sort and another. The largest of these is a building on Module B to mask the exit to the fiddle yard. I have a space about 270 x 220 mm to put something.
My thoughts include The Ship Inn or the Lock Keeper's Cottage (both from nearby); or a large shed built from timber, an open storage shed for timber, a blacksmith or farrier; or something else.
The building needs to be fairly tall to hide the gap in the backdrop board, this is sized for Nellie the crane tank which is the tallest loco on the railway. The shorter the building, the more space I get to add one of the Lombardy Poplars seen along the towing path here.
A possible is the farrier building from Fair Price Models.
This is low enough to let me see the trains and tall enough to mask the fiddle yard in photos.
It could be worked up into a really nice model and give me a home for Charlie the shunting horse too. The two ends should be the other way round but the general impression is the same.
Maybe there are better ideas in amongst everyone here?
With the ballast done, all of the remaining scenic tasks on the baseboards are detailing of one sort and another. The largest of these is a building on Module B to mask the exit to the fiddle yard. I have a space about 270 x 220 mm to put something.
My thoughts include The Ship Inn or the Lock Keeper's Cottage (both from nearby); or a large shed built from timber, an open storage shed for timber, a blacksmith or farrier; or something else.
The building needs to be fairly tall to hide the gap in the backdrop board, this is sized for Nellie the crane tank which is the tallest loco on the railway. The shorter the building, the more space I get to add one of the Lombardy Poplars seen along the towing path here.
A possible is the farrier building from Fair Price Models.
This is low enough to let me see the trains and tall enough to mask the fiddle yard in photos.
It could be worked up into a really nice model and give me a home for Charlie the shunting horse too. The two ends should be the other way round but the general impression is the same.
Maybe there are better ideas in amongst everyone here?
James Spooner
Western Thunderer
To be honest Richard, that does look like a nice building but nothing can beat a good pub and I have fond childhood memories of being taken there by my parents to go for a walk along the sea wall, then have a juice whilst they had a pint at the lock, watching boats going in and out, so, selfishly, my vote would be for a pub!
Hayfield1
Western Thunderer
Richard
I have brought a few Fair Price models and they are fantastic value and once clad with brick/stone etc look great. Also you can cut and shut or just kit bash these kits. For instance it could be an old blacksmiths which has been converted into a pub, or house even another type of commercial residence
Petite Properties also sell similar items in 7mm scale possibly a little more detailed
Petite Properties Ltd
Petite Properties,Petite Properties Ltd,1/24th,1/48th,144th,Micro Scale,Quarter Scale,Half Scale,Dollshouse, Dolls House,Dollhouse, Dollshouses, Dolls Houses, Kits, Dollshouse Shows, Dolls House Shows, Dollshouse Fairs, Dolls House Fairs, Miniatures, Small Scale, Railway Modelling, Railway o...
Petite Properties Ltd
Petite Properties,Petite Properties Ltd,1/24th,1/48th,144th,Micro Scale,Quarter Scale,Half Scale,Dollshouse, Dolls House,Dollhouse, Dollshouses, Dolls Houses, Kits, Dollshouse Shows, Dolls House Shows, Dollshouse Fairs, Dolls House Fairs, Miniatures, Small Scale, Railway Modelling, Railway o...
Lcut Creative are also very useful not only for their kits but for things like roof slates
John
Joe's Garage
Western Thunderer
I totally agree Bob, but I would put a line through Cyprus and put UK....not many here either! Mine' a pint of Directors......
Very sorry for the deviation to the main theme Richard.
Cheers
Julian
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
I met Bea at one of the trade shows at Kensington, this would have been ten+ years ago. She hadn't heard of 1:43.5 scale but I suggested this was the one to go for out of the plethora of model railway scales. They are good kits but a bit "petite" and some will work better in S scale.
Power regulator underneath for flickering fire inside. The layout never happened, not enough skills or knowledge.
The local vernacular suggests a roof with gable ends not hipped . . .
There will be a backdrop board along the line of the pencil to separate fiddle yard from layout.
I don't want to seem obtuse (or acute) but if I turn the building so it looks better then the roof will look cut-to-fit. There isn't an easy way out of this except perhaps a small triangular gap near the pencil and a tree to hide it?
I couldn't ask for a better portrayal of Western Thunder. A central bar with multiple rooms off it to cozy down for a beer and a chat. I guess, this building is going to be a pub.