P A D
Western Thunderer
This lot arrived in the post this morning, along with the loco instructions, which weren't available when I bought the kit.
I see that the bogie axle boxes and springs are included, which were not with the Martin Finney A3. I don't know if these are an upgrade by F7, but they do look nice.
I gave the double chimney a quick scrub with the wire brush and it fits pretty snuggly on the resin smoke box. However, I have just realised that it is an original LNER one, not the later BR type which is different at the rear. I'll have to research that, but I'll cross that bridge later.
I made a start on fitting the castings to the frames. Here are the left hand axle boxes epoxied in place. On the A3 I soldered the axles boxes, but if you don't get them right first time, it's a pain correcting them. With epoxy, you have some adjusting time.
The stubs protrude clear of the inside of the frames and will need filing flush to clear the wheels
Cheers,
Peter
I see that the bogie axle boxes and springs are included, which were not with the Martin Finney A3. I don't know if these are an upgrade by F7, but they do look nice.
I gave the double chimney a quick scrub with the wire brush and it fits pretty snuggly on the resin smoke box. However, I have just realised that it is an original LNER one, not the later BR type which is different at the rear. I'll have to research that, but I'll cross that bridge later.
I made a start on fitting the castings to the frames. Here are the left hand axle boxes epoxied in place. On the A3 I soldered the axles boxes, but if you don't get them right first time, it's a pain correcting them. With epoxy, you have some adjusting time.
The stubs protrude clear of the inside of the frames and will need filing flush to clear the wheels
Cheers,
Peter
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Axle boxes and sand boxes are all new to the kit 
Also new are cast brake hanger brackets, you'll need four, there's also a couple of cast cylinder brake pull rods and slack adjusters.
Not sure if they're on general stock yet so have a word with Richard if you're interested.
MD
Also new are cast brake hanger brackets, you'll need four, there's also a couple of cast cylinder brake pull rods and slack adjusters.
Not sure if they're on general stock yet so have a word with Richard if you're interested.
MD
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Just to clarify, the white metal bogie springs and axleboxes and inside sand boxes are now included as standard as part of our A3 and A4 kits. Those who have older Martin Finney kits can purchase a set to upgrade their kit if they wish.
The brass cast hanger brackets, cylinder brake pull rods and slack adjusters are a spin off from the W1 development. They are not included in the A3 and A4 kits as they are not designed in. Again, they are available as after-sales if anyone wants to super-detail their model.
Richard
The brass cast hanger brackets, cylinder brake pull rods and slack adjusters are a spin off from the W1 development. They are not included in the A3 and A4 kits as they are not designed in. Again, they are available as after-sales if anyone wants to super-detail their model.
Richard
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Thank you. A lot of time and effort has gone (and is still going) into the instructions.
Richard
mickoo
Western Thunderer
The outside sand boxes are new with added detail such as fixing brackets, pipe flange and inspection hatches. When I did the W1 ones of made sense to do the A3 and A4 at the same time, they're all slightly different somewhere along the line, so no one box fits all scenario.
Forgot to also add that we now do a nice steam sand trap casting to fit in the base of the middle internal sand box, the front being gravity fed.
MD
Forgot to also add that we now do a nice steam sand trap casting to fit in the base of the middle internal sand box, the front being gravity fed.
MD
P A D
Western Thunderer
Thanks Mick,
I'll think about that and the other goodies you mentioned.
To line up the missed laminates on the rubbing plate, I cut some strips of card and pushed them into the slot.
And after soldering and tidying up. I see I missed the inside edges of the slot.
I then epoxied the axle boxes on the right hand side and while the resin was curing, I pressed on with the tank. Here are the sides, inside facing up and the template for modifying the front edges to suit the A4. The fold up brackets at either end are for a length of 1/4 inch rod to fit in place to aid forming the top curve. The template also has the positions for the handrail pillar holes, that need to be drilled.
The sides are tack soldered back to back and the template tacked to the front edge. Here it is after partly removing the excess metal with the piercing saw.
And completed.
The template can then be removed and the sides separated for forming the curve at the top and front edges. I didn't have any 1/4 inch rod, so could not use the method suggested in the instructions, so the brackets were removed and dressed back. Using one of the bulkheads as a guide, I sanded a curve onto the edge of a piece of softwood, to the required shape. On the opposite side to the curve, I hammered in a couple of nails to act as a stop for the wood when put into the bending bars. The side was then carefully lined up and the bars tightened to clamp the wood and etching. I then formed the curve by pressing the etching along the edge of the bench and then folding it over. I then placed another block of wood on top of the etching and hammered it down tight to the clamped former.
The tender beading is half round copper soldered in place. I used a flat steel square pushed against the half etched side to keep thr beading straight while tack soldering. It had moved when this picture was taken.
Here's a view of the inside face after fitting the half etch beading and hinges.
And the outside with the beading in place.
Next a riveting session with the GW Universal Rivet Tool. At the top is the corridoor roof, then below the tank top plate and bunker. The top plate and corridor roof also have some half etch rivets. The GW tool was a really good investment. It works a treat and results in very little distortion of the workpiece.
So here's where I've got to with the tank. The bunker and corridor roof folded ready for fitting.
A couple of closer views of the bunker.
And finally the corridoor roof after folding. Again, this has a bracket at either end to locate a 1/4 inch rod to aid bending. I used my own method with the block of wood and bending bars.
I made a quick trial fit of the roof onto the edge of the bunker and the tabs fit perfectly into the slots in the bunker top. I've lost track of the number of times I've had to fanny around fitting fire iron tunnels into coal bunkers in lesser kits. I just love these kits, they are so easy to build. Complex in some areas, but everything fits as it should with the minimum of fuss.
Cheers,
Peter
I'll think about that and the other goodies you mentioned.
To line up the missed laminates on the rubbing plate, I cut some strips of card and pushed them into the slot.
And after soldering and tidying up. I see I missed the inside edges of the slot.
I then epoxied the axle boxes on the right hand side and while the resin was curing, I pressed on with the tank. Here are the sides, inside facing up and the template for modifying the front edges to suit the A4. The fold up brackets at either end are for a length of 1/4 inch rod to fit in place to aid forming the top curve. The template also has the positions for the handrail pillar holes, that need to be drilled.
The sides are tack soldered back to back and the template tacked to the front edge. Here it is after partly removing the excess metal with the piercing saw.
And completed.
The template can then be removed and the sides separated for forming the curve at the top and front edges. I didn't have any 1/4 inch rod, so could not use the method suggested in the instructions, so the brackets were removed and dressed back. Using one of the bulkheads as a guide, I sanded a curve onto the edge of a piece of softwood, to the required shape. On the opposite side to the curve, I hammered in a couple of nails to act as a stop for the wood when put into the bending bars. The side was then carefully lined up and the bars tightened to clamp the wood and etching. I then formed the curve by pressing the etching along the edge of the bench and then folding it over. I then placed another block of wood on top of the etching and hammered it down tight to the clamped former.
The tender beading is half round copper soldered in place. I used a flat steel square pushed against the half etched side to keep thr beading straight while tack soldering. It had moved when this picture was taken.
Here's a view of the inside face after fitting the half etch beading and hinges.
And the outside with the beading in place.
Next a riveting session with the GW Universal Rivet Tool. At the top is the corridoor roof, then below the tank top plate and bunker. The top plate and corridor roof also have some half etch rivets. The GW tool was a really good investment. It works a treat and results in very little distortion of the workpiece.
So here's where I've got to with the tank. The bunker and corridor roof folded ready for fitting.
A couple of closer views of the bunker.
And finally the corridoor roof after folding. Again, this has a bracket at either end to locate a 1/4 inch rod to aid bending. I used my own method with the block of wood and bending bars.
I made a quick trial fit of the roof onto the edge of the bunker and the tabs fit perfectly into the slots in the bunker top. I've lost track of the number of times I've had to fanny around fitting fire iron tunnels into coal bunkers in lesser kits. I just love these kits, they are so easy to build. Complex in some areas, but everything fits as it should with the minimum of fuss.
Cheers,
Peter
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P A D
Western Thunderer
For now I'm still following the sequence in the instructions, albeit I've moved onto the tank/bunker before completing the frames. No doubt the deviant in me will send me off on a tangent sooner or later.
Here is the tender top plate after laminating the overlay with the rivet detail, to the er.....underlay I suppose. The instructions suggest adding the lifting ring brackets at this stage which as I recall is not the same sequence as the MF A3 instructions, where they were added much later and were a big of pig. I don't know if the F7 boys have changed that in the light of their own experience, but I was ready to deviate and they ruined it for me.
The underlay has some holes to solder across the work piece as well as at the edges. I cleaned it up bug didn't go to town on it as it will not be visible.
Fittkng the lifting ring brackets is the same story with the bunker. Fit them now while it's easy, so again I'm still following instructions. Bloody control freaks at F7!
The folded bases for the brackets, were only soldered at the top edge, where it's easy to clean up.
The flanges for the vents are also fitted at this stage.
When it came to soldering the butt joint in the bunker sides, I decided to go belt and braces and added a piece of waste fret to the top edge first and then soldered the seam.
Cheers,
Peter
Here is the tender top plate after laminating the overlay with the rivet detail, to the er.....underlay I suppose. The instructions suggest adding the lifting ring brackets at this stage which as I recall is not the same sequence as the MF A3 instructions, where they were added much later and were a big of pig. I don't know if the F7 boys have changed that in the light of their own experience, but I was ready to deviate and they ruined it for me.
The underlay has some holes to solder across the work piece as well as at the edges. I cleaned it up bug didn't go to town on it as it will not be visible.
Fittkng the lifting ring brackets is the same story with the bunker. Fit them now while it's easy, so again I'm still following instructions. Bloody control freaks at F7!
The folded bases for the brackets, were only soldered at the top edge, where it's easy to clean up.The flanges for the vents are also fitted at this stage.
When it came to soldering the butt joint in the bunker sides, I decided to go belt and braces and added a piece of waste fret to the top edge first and then soldered the seam.
Cheers,
Peter
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Sorry I/we ruined your day 
We did write the instructions after building each of the tenders and little tips like the lifting rings we thought might be helpful.
If you're going to solder the white metal tank filler in then do it now, getting a soldering iron up inside to solder the white metal spigot upside down is not fun, if you're going to use an adhesive, and I suspect you will given the comments on the axle boxes, then it's easy to fit later.
I recall there's some more tips with the front bulkhead which is made from several laminates and sub sections.
You can of course deviate and build in any order you like but we want you/everyone to enjoy the build, not fight with it
Looking nice so far
We did write the instructions after building each of the tenders and little tips like the lifting rings we thought might be helpful.
If you're going to solder the white metal tank filler in then do it now, getting a soldering iron up inside to solder the white metal spigot upside down is not fun, if you're going to use an adhesive, and I suspect you will given the comments on the axle boxes, then it's easy to fit later.
I recall there's some more tips with the front bulkhead which is made from several laminates and sub sections.
You can of course deviate and build in any order you like but we want you/everyone to enjoy the build, not fight with it
Looking nice so far
P A D
Western Thunderer
Hi Mick,
Like most modellers, I only deviate from the instructions when I think I know better (or haven't read them and screw up!), but so far you are ahead of me. As I said, it's good that you have found ways to improve on already excellent kits, and with the instructions, are not just cutting and pasting. It's getting harder playing "beat the designer" with you guys. If I don't find some thing to change shortly, I'm going to get bored.
The way this is going, I'll need to build an Ace kit next, just so I can fight my way through the build from start to finish!
Cheers,
Peter
Like most modellers, I only deviate from the instructions when I think I know better (or haven't read them and screw up!), but so far you are ahead of me. As I said, it's good that you have found ways to improve on already excellent kits, and with the instructions, are not just cutting and pasting. It's getting harder playing "beat the designer" with you guys. If I don't find some thing to change shortly, I'm going to get bored.
The way this is going, I'll need to build an Ace kit next, just so I can fight my way through the build from start to finish!
Cheers,
Peter
P A D
Western Thunderer
Or maybe not!
The lifting links were formed from 0.5mm annealed brass wire and are soldered to the bracket, as I don't see any point in leaving them loose. As Mickoo mentioned earlier, I will be fitting the white metal castings with epoxy, so they can go on much later.
Same story in the bunker.
Back on the frames, the locating lugs on the axles boxes have been rubbed down flush to clear the wheels. Below I have added the fixing nuts to the running plate. It doesn't look like it, but the footplate support tabs have been folded at 90 degrees. The reflection and camera angle makes them look sloping.
The tank rear is quite complex with the corridor connection. Here we have the inner laminate, then the main rear plate, and the corridoor connection parts. Note that the door hinges and clasp are half etched, but there is no line for the door perimeter. It is actually etched on the back side and using my calipers to set the distance from the sides and top edges, I scribed in the lines for the door.
The corridor connection is designed to compress as on the prototype. Here it is still jigged up with coffee stirrers used to set the distance before soldering the pins. The is from the bottom.
And from the side
And the top.
This is the completed unit.
Here it is just placed on the laminated rear plate. The footsteps and lamp irons have been added and the side handrails will be fitted before the corridoor connection.
The outer face of the connection can be compressed against the springs. I need to make the concertina side pieces before fitting the connection to the rear plate, as there is nothing included in the kit for these.
Here are the running plate, frames and chassis screwed together.
Cheers,
Peter
The lifting links were formed from 0.5mm annealed brass wire and are soldered to the bracket, as I don't see any point in leaving them loose. As Mickoo mentioned earlier, I will be fitting the white metal castings with epoxy, so they can go on much later.
Same story in the bunker.
Back on the frames, the locating lugs on the axles boxes have been rubbed down flush to clear the wheels. Below I have added the fixing nuts to the running plate. It doesn't look like it, but the footplate support tabs have been folded at 90 degrees. The reflection and camera angle makes them look sloping.
The tank rear is quite complex with the corridor connection. Here we have the inner laminate, then the main rear plate, and the corridoor connection parts. Note that the door hinges and clasp are half etched, but there is no line for the door perimeter. It is actually etched on the back side and using my calipers to set the distance from the sides and top edges, I scribed in the lines for the door.
The corridor connection is designed to compress as on the prototype. Here it is still jigged up with coffee stirrers used to set the distance before soldering the pins. The is from the bottom.
And from the side
And the top.
This is the completed unit.
Here it is just placed on the laminated rear plate. The footsteps and lamp irons have been added and the side handrails will be fitted before the corridoor connection.
The outer face of the connection can be compressed against the springs. I need to make the concertina side pieces before fitting the connection to the rear plate, as there is nothing included in the kit for these.
Here are the running plate, frames and chassis screwed together.
Cheers,
Peter
adrian
Flying Squad
Thanks for posting I think 
You're really not helping because I'm currently trying to clear the work bench projects for a Finney7 V2 build. I really must get them cleared out of the way before starting the next project which is extremely difficult to do when you keep posting updates like this.
However if nothing else it's taught me to read the instructions first before starting the build - which will be a first for me.
You're really not helping because I'm currently trying to clear the work bench projects for a Finney7 V2 build. I really must get them cleared out of the way before starting the next project which is extremely difficult to do when you keep posting updates like this.
However if nothing else it's taught me to read the instructions first before starting the build - which will be a first for me.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
There should be a small piece of paper, marked to allow you to cut, score and crease, then colour accordingly to create the bellows.
I found it easier to fit the handrail knobs at this stage, soldered from the inside and i can't see if you've added the extra 5thou blanking strips up the sides to smooth and hide the bend lines.
Coming along nicely.
Adrian....Just Do IT!
I've got a nickel silver GST here to build to complement the B1 display model, that might tip the balance
I found it easier to fit the handrail knobs at this stage, soldered from the inside and i can't see if you've added the extra 5thou blanking strips up the sides to smooth and hide the bend lines.
Coming along nicely.
Adrian....Just Do IT!
I've got a nickel silver GST here to build to complement the B1 display model, that might tip the balance
adrian
Flying Squad
Nooooo! Just wait a month or 2 please! I did get the V2 and GST in nickel rather than brass as I do think the difference is worth it. However I've never been a great fan of compensation so I've been working up a solution for CSB suspension and ball races which I think may work. I don't want to repeat PAD's excellent photos so will post photos if I go off script.I've got a nickel silver GST here to build to complement the B1 display model, that might tip the balance
SimonT
Western Thunderer
We are thinking of releasing a set of instructions aimed at the more expert builders who use our quantum solder. Peter, to aid your build they are reproduced below. Now in a James Brown voice:
"Just do your thing man"
However you might find the attached file more use.
Simon
"Just do your thing man"
However you might find the attached file more use.
Simon
P A D
Western Thunderer
Hi Adrian,
Many thanks, I'm glad you like the build. Do post your V2 build as and when, with as many photos as possible. I might acquire one in the future so it would be good see a detailed thread on the kit.
As to compensation, I'm an old stick in the mud, but I'm coming around to it. I've mentioned over engineering in small scale modelling (no offence to IanC. Each to his own), but the F7 tender set up is very, very simple and it works. Certainly I wouldn't change it on any future builds. The compensation on the MOK 4MT seems very good as well. My brother has a 3 way point set up on a board and it runs through them no bother. I'll take it to the do at the Keighley model railway club tomorrow and give it a spin on their test track, so if any WTs are there come and say hello. I may bring the A3 and tow it around as I've put the motor back in the Dutchess. Must get in touch with ABC!
On the A4, I'm going compensate it as per the instructions. It will be a good comparison for me to test it against the A3 and decide what I think is best for future builds. CSB, ball races? As I said each to his own, but I look forward to seeing how you do it.
Mick,
There was no template for the bellow, or if there was, muggins didn see it and it's lost. I see Simon has sent me the file though. As yet I haven't fitted the handrail pillars or the 5 tho overlay, but will be doing it as you describe.
Simon,
Many thanks for the bellow template.
Quantum solder! Sound like chemistry as well as engineering is coming into the equation now. Hahaha.
Cheers,
Peter
Many thanks, I'm glad you like the build. Do post your V2 build as and when, with as many photos as possible. I might acquire one in the future so it would be good see a detailed thread on the kit.
As to compensation, I'm an old stick in the mud, but I'm coming around to it. I've mentioned over engineering in small scale modelling (no offence to IanC. Each to his own), but the F7 tender set up is very, very simple and it works. Certainly I wouldn't change it on any future builds. The compensation on the MOK 4MT seems very good as well. My brother has a 3 way point set up on a board and it runs through them no bother. I'll take it to the do at the Keighley model railway club tomorrow and give it a spin on their test track, so if any WTs are there come and say hello. I may bring the A3 and tow it around as I've put the motor back in the Dutchess. Must get in touch with ABC!
On the A4, I'm going compensate it as per the instructions. It will be a good comparison for me to test it against the A3 and decide what I think is best for future builds. CSB, ball races? As I said each to his own, but I look forward to seeing how you do it.
Mick,
There was no template for the bellow, or if there was, muggins didn see it and it's lost. I see Simon has sent me the file though. As yet I haven't fitted the handrail pillars or the 5 tho overlay, but will be doing it as you describe.
Simon,
Many thanks for the bellow template.
Quantum solder! Sound like chemistry as well as engineering is coming into the equation now. Hahaha.
Cheers,
Peter
Good to meet you are Keighley this morning and to be able to really appreciate the quality of your workmanship. The brass and Nickle silver shone as brightly on the test track as it does in the photos on here
I can't decide which was the most impressive the 4MT or the A3
I can't decide which was the most impressive the 4MT or the A3
P A D
Western Thunderer
Many thanks for the kind words .
It was nice to meet you also, along with "Herr Flick" and the other WTer who came and said hello.
I must admit to being torn between the two. Both hi-end kits of excellent quality, albeit with different design approaches. Both were a joy to build and it will be interesting to see how the A4 compares being a "mixed media" kit.
I hope to acquire one of the new F7 kits in the future, so that will be a new and exciting experience. Having been shown the W1 prototype build up close and personal by Mick Davies at Kettering this year, I have my heart set on one. We shall see.
I see you have a work bench thread on here, so I'll be having a look through when I get a minute. The coach you brought along was a fine piece of work, so I'll be looking out for that on your thread. If it's not there, please be so kind as to post some photos, as I neglected to take some pictures when my 41XX was pulling it around the test track.
Cheers,
Peter
It was nice to meet you also, along with "Herr Flick" and the other WTer who came and said hello.
I must admit to being torn between the two. Both hi-end kits of excellent quality, albeit with different design approaches. Both were a joy to build and it will be interesting to see how the A4 compares being a "mixed media" kit.
I hope to acquire one of the new F7 kits in the future, so that will be a new and exciting experience. Having been shown the W1 prototype build up close and personal by Mick Davies at Kettering this year, I have my heart set on one. We shall see.
I see you have a work bench thread on here, so I'll be having a look through when I get a minute. The coach you brought along was a fine piece of work, so I'll be looking out for that on your thread. If it's not there, please be so kind as to post some photos, as I neglected to take some pictures when my 41XX was pulling it around the test track.
Cheers,
Peter
P A D
Western Thunderer
Using the template sent by Simon I made the bellow from 2 thou brass sheet. Here they are installed. I wasn't that bothered about having the connection work so I soldered the pins, as sooner of later the fold in the brass would crack. 
Here I have added the cover at the top. Again this is 2 thou brass.
With the back done and dusted, I've started on the intermediate and front bulkheads. The front is in two parts both made from laminates as is the smaller bulkhead. Having prepared the various subsections, I'm just about ready to start assembling the tank and bunker.
Cheers,
Peter
Here I have added the cover at the top. Again this is 2 thou brass.
With the back done and dusted, I've started on the intermediate and front bulkheads. The front is in two parts both made from laminates as is the smaller bulkhead. Having prepared the various subsections, I'm just about ready to start assembling the tank and bunker.
Cheers,
Peter