daifly
Western Thunderer
Is there a full-size prototype for the buffer stop installed back-to-front? Methinks that a leading bogie wheel might ride up the rail strut before the buffers reached the plank!
Farrington Road
- Thread starter mfsyoung
- Start date
Dan Randall
Western Thunderer
It's not really back to front, more like a conventional one minus the rear portion. Although these may have been used as per the picture, a more likely place to find them would be in an end loading dock, obviously, with a platform or ramp behind them.
Regards
Dan
Regards
Dan
mfsyoung
Active Member
This is a picture taken from the 'Off the Rails' site. They are selling these as T W Ward No 11b Buffer Stop.
daifly
Western Thunderer
Makes sense.
mfsyoung
Active Member
As you can see from the pictures I use brass chairs at all weak points like rail joins and soldered joints using 1mm copperclad where I cannot use the brass chairs. Check rails are soldered upright onto two copperclad strips. All copperclad strips are cut off close to the rail and half plastic chairs added.
When I am laying track using plastic chairs I always check the height using the 1mm copperclad strips. I have found in the past that sometimes the plastic softens and so the height of the rail varies, especially if a weight is added on top of the rail when setting. So I push a chair aside every so often and put a 1mm copperclad under both rails on the same sleeper with a weight on top to make sure the rail is sitting on it.
When I am laying track using plastic chairs I always check the height using the 1mm copperclad strips. I have found in the past that sometimes the plastic softens and so the height of the rail varies, especially if a weight is added on top of the rail when setting. So I push a chair aside every so often and put a 1mm copperclad under both rails on the same sleeper with a weight on top to make sure the rail is sitting on it.
mfsyoung
Active Member
In my spares box I found a ten lever frame that I had intended to incorporate into one of my previous layouts so I decided that I would mechanically operate all the turnouts on this section with interlocking.
Levers 4 to 7 are mechanically connected. Lever 5 pulled locks 6 and 7. Lever 6 can only be pulled if 5 is pulled first and lever 7 can be pulled if 5 and 6 are normal. Lever 4 is not interlocked. Lever 1 controls the direction of the main line and lever 2 operates the appropriate signal depending on the setting of lever 7 (electrical interlocking) and also locks most of the other levers. Levers 3 and 8 electrically operate the crossovers on the other sections. The letters refer to the switched sections which depends on the setting of the turnouts to provide the correct track supply.
This is the locking tray which was modified from the original (I bought it second hand and it already had locking) so there are a few indents (original) which appear to do nothing.
This is the output from 4 to 7 of the lever frame. 5, 6 and 7 are crossovers so one lever operates two turnouts. 1.5mm tube (0.8 internal) is threaded 14ba and a bolt with adjusting nuts is screwed in to provide the correct throw for each turnout, the excess being taken up by the slack. The required throw is nominally 2.5mm and the lever output is about 8mm. This gives plenty of adjustment for slack in the system.
All the cranks and rodding fork ends are made from scratch and the rodding is 0.8mm hard brass rod. The rodding forks are made from 1.5mm wide nickel silver folded over 0.8mm rod and soldered. The pins are Peco blackened (about 0.5mm dia) with the heads turned down to about 0.9mm. Peco pins are also used for the pivot points of the cranks, which sit on a short tube of 1.2 mm tube (0.6mm bore) soldered to a rectangular base.
All this has taken a considerable time to construct as it was a lot of trial and error with a few disasters on the way!
Anyway, I have a great deal of satisfaction in being able to operate the turnouts mechanically instead of just flicking a switch so all the effort was worth it!
Levers 4 to 7 are mechanically connected. Lever 5 pulled locks 6 and 7. Lever 6 can only be pulled if 5 is pulled first and lever 7 can be pulled if 5 and 6 are normal. Lever 4 is not interlocked. Lever 1 controls the direction of the main line and lever 2 operates the appropriate signal depending on the setting of lever 7 (electrical interlocking) and also locks most of the other levers. Levers 3 and 8 electrically operate the crossovers on the other sections. The letters refer to the switched sections which depends on the setting of the turnouts to provide the correct track supply.
This is the locking tray which was modified from the original (I bought it second hand and it already had locking) so there are a few indents (original) which appear to do nothing.
This is the output from 4 to 7 of the lever frame. 5, 6 and 7 are crossovers so one lever operates two turnouts. 1.5mm tube (0.8 internal) is threaded 14ba and a bolt with adjusting nuts is screwed in to provide the correct throw for each turnout, the excess being taken up by the slack. The required throw is nominally 2.5mm and the lever output is about 8mm. This gives plenty of adjustment for slack in the system.
All the cranks and rodding fork ends are made from scratch and the rodding is 0.8mm hard brass rod. The rodding forks are made from 1.5mm wide nickel silver folded over 0.8mm rod and soldered. The pins are Peco blackened (about 0.5mm dia) with the heads turned down to about 0.9mm. Peco pins are also used for the pivot points of the cranks, which sit on a short tube of 1.2 mm tube (0.6mm bore) soldered to a rectangular base.
All this has taken a considerable time to construct as it was a lot of trial and error with a few disasters on the way!
Anyway, I have a great deal of satisfaction in being able to operate the turnouts mechanically instead of just flicking a switch so all the effort was worth it!
mfsyoung
Active Member
The lights turn from green to yellow on Platform 1 showing that lever 6 has been thrown to enable shunting on the headshunt.
You can just see my loco controller on the left which is a simple but very effective voltage controller with the reverse switch located centre bottom of the panel.
You can just see my loco controller on the left which is a simple but very effective voltage controller with the reverse switch located centre bottom of the panel.
Attachments
mfsyoung
Active Member
Not really back, I'm afraid. I felt that I had to make the layout complete mechanically and electrically as I still intend to sell it. I have also completed the documentation (circuit diagrams) and the baseboards are also labelled underneath enabling quick fault finding if necessary!
It is a shame as I intended to finish and exhibit this layout but old age has crept up on me and realistically I would not be up to attending exhibitions. I just hope that someone comes along and is able to add scenery and rolling stock to complete and show how good S7 can look!
