Amanda's Workshop: Scratchbuilding Toward A Layout

paulc

Western Thunderer
I am trying to get several floating projects done. I have had 3 or 4 irons in the fire now for far too long, and I hope to clear all but one or two of them. One of the final irons is the 1366T kit that I have been working on / cursing the name of / crying about for like a year now. It's close enough to feel close, but far enough to be "urgh" far away. I need to finish some final details, in particular the drain pipes from the injectors (I am unsure what they are called?) as well as make a safety valve bonnet and chimney, tank vents, and a few other turned details, and sometime to get handrail standoffs so I can install those. This little engine will likely stay with me; even if I sell off some / most of my GWR 0 gauge, I think I wish to keep this one. I just want to get it out of the queue. It, along with a Connoisseur models Macaw B (what a wonderful kit!) will be stars of a diorama, if nothing else. I must admit I am unsure how to approach turning the chimney and dome. I guess just get in there and make chips, eh?

As shown in my thread here, I have 3 (4) projects ongoing, in 3 different scales. I admit to having a wibbly wobbly attitude, where I wibble and wobble to and fro a lot. What to do!? I think 2mm, as much as I love it, is simply too small for me. My eyesight is -11.50 without my glasses, and even with them, it's a strain. Part of my move to 7mm was due to how much easier it was on my eyeballs, and how much more scratchbuild-friendly it is.

The Jinty above is simply because I have it here, and decided selling it complete may be easier than selling it as parts, though who knows; it all depends on me doing my best with the build and the paint job, though I have a good feeling about it so far. 4mm is not too small; I haven't had too many eyesight issues so far. I want badly to build an urban terminus / Minories type layout for Midland or LMS. I wish I had the room to do so in 7mm, but alas, I do not, I don't believe. If I COULD, this would probably get me to sell all my other british stuff.

7mm british stuff - well, I have 2 other Panniers, both Dapol models, along with 10 or so goods wagons I have built - two from scratch! - and a single D98 GWR brake third from an Ian Kirk kit, with loads of enhancements. This one is another 90% project. I may sell this stuff on; if I stay with 7mm, my little GWR dock tank is a better engine for my available space, though I'd keep my goods stock.

1:48 US stuff. I love British prototypes, as smaller engines and MUCH smaller freight stock is far more small layout friendly. But I am from the US, I love old US freight cars and steam engines, and I can convince myself to just build these to sit on shelves, or maybe run around on the floor once in a while. All of this thus far is scratch built, and it's so much fun. I see myself sticking with this, though off and on as I can get the bits I do need.
View attachment 187248
So uh... anyone else have WAY too many projects at once?
Hi WM183 , well here we are at reply #76 and we still have no idea what your name is ?
 

WM183

Western Thunderer
My name is, indeed, Amanda. Hi folks!
I thought I had ended most of my posts with my name, but apparently not. I shall try to be more consistent with that.

As an aside, do you folks tend to paint frames with hornblocks, etc all in place? Or do you paint them all separate and assemble the frame after? I don't mean rods, wheels, etc., I just mean hornblocks and keepers. I can't imagine it makes much difference either way...
 

WM183

Western Thunderer
solder first, spray later...
Hi Simon,

That's what I'm doing. I can't even remove the hornblocks from the Jinty, and the 7mm engine, while I can remove them, I'd rather just spray the frame and stuff all at once. I thought about making a working piston for the vacuum pump for the 1366, but I don't think I have the mental fortitude for much more of this thing.
 

paulc

Western Thunderer
My name is, indeed, Amanda. Hi folks!
I thought I had ended most of my posts with my name, but apparently not. I shall try to be more consistent with that.

As an aside, do you folks tend to paint frames with hornblocks, etc all in place? Or do you paint them all separate and assemble the frame after? I don't mean rods, wheels, etc., I just mean hornblocks and keepers. I can't imagine it makes much difference either way...
Thankyou :)
 

76043

Western Thunderer
I have an O gauge and EM gauge project in addition to my Dublingham exhibition layout. I find exhibition deadlines keep me from wandering too far, so I'd recommend the exhibition route as it keeps you mostly focused.
Tony
 

WM183

Western Thunderer
It's funny you mention exhibitions...

That is the goal for the dock tank, in fact! I would like to build a small dockside switching layout, something in the vein of Arun Quay, but more GWR/SR based, sort of Weymouth-ish but not being any "real" place. I would like to exhibit this layout, and this little dock tank - plus perhaps another sometime - would serve the motive power needs of a dockside and wharf. I hope to use two of the Ikea "Lack" shelves - 120 x 40 cm - plus a 60 x 40 as a fiddle yard. I would like to have the stock being switched also match the ship(s) currently at the dockside; a load of timber from the Baltics? Ok, here comes the 1366 and a few bogie wagons. Fishing boats? Fish vans. A collier? Let's bring along a string of 16 tonners. Thus, the traffic would depend on the vessels in dock at the time, adding some interest to the layout and allowing me to build some ship models! The exhibition circuit in Europe isn't quite what it is in the UK, but we do have several shows per year here in Holland regardless.

Someday I'd not mind an Ivatt 2-6-2t or maybe an Adams radial tank to haul a modest passenger service sometime, but for now, it may/will be freight only, methinks.

Amanda
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
... the traffic would depend on the vessels in dock at the time, adding some interest to the layout and allowing me to build some ship models.
Now this is a good idea, offers lots of scope for individual and specialised traffics.
 

WM183

Western Thunderer
Does anyone know where I might get etched numberplates for a 1366 class loco in 7mm? All the places I can find seem to not offer them for the 1366 class, or if they do, they're 3d prints. I'd very much like brass ones, and I'm not very picky about the number.

Amanda
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
CPL has had etched GWR plates in their range. Otherwise, Severn Mill or Narrow Planet ought to be a good shot.
 

WM183

Western Thunderer
Severn Mill seems to have what I need! They have the number plates for the cab, as well as for the smokebox, and a shed code. What shed were the Weymouth locomotives based from? I am guessing Weymouth did not have its own?
 

Lyndhurstman

Western Thunderer
Severn Mill seems to have what I need! They have the number plates for the cab, as well as for the smokebox, and a shed code. What shed were the Weymouth locomotives based from? I am guessing Weymouth did not have its own?
Hello
Not my field of expertise (to be fair, if I do have a field, it’s more of a tussock..) but I found this. As to veracity; others will no doubt be able to quote chapter and verse

Cheers

Jan
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
... they have the number plates for the cab, as well as for the smokebox, and a shed code.
Please do not forget that each GWR loco had a warning plate affixed to the underside of the cab roof.

Re-Weymouth... the GWR had a shed in that town and its historical fact for the day is that at one time the Shedmaster was Mr. Nutty. Now that Mr. Nutty might not be well-known - his son Ernest, better known to railway historians and to early preservationist as Ernie, rose in the GWR family to become part of Sam Ell's team doing experimental work on boiler efficiency.

regards, Graham
 

Osgood

Western Thunderer
Please do not forget that each GWR loco had a warning plate affixed to the underside of the cab roof.
....
OK as someone not familiar with much GWR I'm not afraid to ask.
I'm puzzled as to what warning a plate on the underside of a cab roof may carry - short of something in very small letters like:
"IF YOU CAN READ THIS THE FOOTPLATE REQUIRES SWEEPING".
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Tony,

Try this link.

Whilst I wrote that the plate was under the cab roof, the plate could also be found on the cab side sheet where there was no side window glass.

regards, Graham
 

Osgood

Western Thunderer
Thanks Graham - some nice repros there and interesting to see the specials they do for restorations / new builds.
 
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