Amanda's Workshop: Scratchbuilding Toward A Layout

Brian T

Brian T

Western Thunderer
Really nice build,will be following...

Have dabbled in building an O scale styrene freight car (gondola) in the past,though i never got to finish it as i made the mistake of creating a 'sealed box' in which to put weight,not realizing that the fumes from the glue needed to escape.This in turn lead to a vacum being created in the space, which then sucked in the sides ruining the build;it ended up in the bin.....:'(

Hope you don't the pictures...
Brian.

image-11_14205046389_o.jpgimage-4_14205122870_o.jpg
 
Dan Randall

Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
WM183

WM183

Western Thunderer
Hi all!

Brian, the sides of gons almost always looks wavy and beat up, due to differential expansion of the metal during welding as well as simple wear and tear. I think once painted, that would be pretty hard to spot? In any event, I always ensure I drill holes in any potential closed space. Where did you get the air brake details? I need to find a source for pistons, reservoirs, and triple valves...

Dan, Thank you! I look forward to trying these rivet transfers!

Ian, yeah, I've cut myself a couple times. It's still better than a few burns I've had while soldering - and sure hurts less!

Amanda
 
Brian T

Brian T

Western Thunderer
WM183 said:
Brian, the sides of gons almost always looks wavy and beat up, due to differential expansion of the metal during welding as well as simple wear and tear. I think once painted, that would be pretty hard to spot? In any event, I always ensure I drill holes in any potential closed space. Where did you get the air brake details? I need to find a source for pistons, reservoirs, and triple valves...
Click to expand...
Hi, Unfortunatly the problem with the lower edges of the sides was terminal...as it had actualy cracked the styrene (used 20 thou) in a couple of places.
Oh well live and learn..!!
Anyhow i used a mix of brake parts,the metal ones were from an old Gloor Craft kit,the AB valve came from an Intermountain kit and the little grey valve ahead of the AB valve was a spare from a Chooch Ultra scale ll kit and the slack adjuster was made from scratch.
image-6_14388353331_o.jpg
But in the future i shall use the brass Protocraft parts;
Protocraft
Protocraft
or there are cheaper bits from San Juan car co. (inc. K brake system)
O Scale Model Trains - O Scale Model Train Kits - San Juan Car Company
or if you prefer white metal;
O SCALE WISEMAN MODEL SERVICES WMS-1015 WESTINGHOUSE FREIGHT CAR A-B BRAKE SET | eBay

Hope this helps.
Brian.
 
WM183

WM183

Western Thunderer
What is it about the obscure and unusual that appeals so much?
 

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WM183

WM183

Western Thunderer
The 2mm armour plate - err, brass sheet - has arrived. As I will be busy with family stuff this weekend, I hope to get a start on the frames Monday or Tuesday of next week. I am wondering how to go about installing hornblocks; the Slater's hornguides have a lip that is quite narrow, and will be inboard of the outside of the frames far enough I might need to install the hornblocks themselves backwards. I definitely want some sort of suspension in an 8 coupled engine, I shall have to have a think.
 
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WM183

WM183

Western Thunderer
The NYC truss rod boxcar continues. To add to confusion, NYC had a habit of naming whatever their most recent design was as "Standard Box" which can apply to any of 6 or 7 different types of car, depending on the time period modeled. This boxcar was a design from around 1910, and these would last in service until at least the 1930s, when the inevitable march of the elements on the wooden structures, as well as the ARA ban on arch bar trucks, caused them to disappear en masse; if you model 1935 or later, you can probably ignore these cars. In my period of 1925 or so, however, they'd still be seen in common service.

The floor and body are supported by 8 massive timbers, measuring 4 1/2" x 8", running the full length of the car, between headstocks that are of 8x8 inch timbers. I added the timbers to the floor, and added the siding to the body. Now it can be clearly seen why I often build boxcars as a "Box in a Box" to let the body rest nicely on the floor/frame, with the body sheeting itself holding everything in snug alignment. I used Evergreen car siding for this one, and frankly, while the sheet was expensive - 9 euros - i am very happy with the result, and luckily, one sheet was sufficient for the car.

The next is the roof. I like to get the "Box" built first, then stick details to it from biggest to fiddliest.NYC Boxcar body 1.jpgNYC Boxcar body 2.jpgNYC Boxcar body 3.jpgNYC Boxcar body 4.jpg
 
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Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
WM183 said:
... as well as the ARA ban on arch bar trucks
Click to expand...
Peeps often mention this ban... with no explanation - so what is an arch bar truck and why was that design banned?

Amanda @WM183, please edit your last post and convert the images from thumbnail to full size.

thanks, Graham
 
WM183

WM183

Western Thunderer
Hi Graham,

An Arch Bar truck is a type of truck that was constructed of bolted steel struts and crossmembers. They were very common in the late 1800s and early 1900s as being cheaper to produce than cast trucks, but the bolts, rivets, etc., could come loose over time, leading to rapid unplanned disassembly of the truck, the train, and anything in close proximity to either. They were only banned from cars in interchange service, which meant that cabooses (cabin cars in PRR parlance) or MOW cars could retain them, as could cars on narrow gauge systems like the DRGW, since the cars obviously were captive to the system. I believe the ARA banned them in interchange service in 1928 or 1929 or so.

Per wikipedia, a good photo:

1YGaRF7.jpg
 
WM183

WM183

Western Thunderer
I have finished the roofwalk and ends for the USRA boxcar. The car is coming to completion! I need to make stirrup steps, do the brake details for the underframe, and find a brake wheel, and add cut levers and brake hoses. The amount of effort required to get to this point has been eye opening; there's quite a nice Overland brass version of this car available in 0 scale, and the price now seems a good deal more reasonable, hehe...

...though certainly building one is more fun!

Roofwalk 1.jpgRoofwalk 2.jpgRoofwalk 3.jpg
 
Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
WM183 said:
The amount of effort required to get to this point has been eye opening; there's quite a nice Overland brass version of this car available in 0 scale, and the price now seems a good deal more reasonable, hehe...
Click to expand...
Yup, how one feels about price is inversely proportional to age.
 
WM183

WM183

Western Thunderer
And financial status, I'd say. I am on a very shoestring budget with my modelling; I simply cannot afford to buy a load of brass in 0 scale. I'm in my mid 40s, and trying to get my Dutch teaching certificate - I was a math teacher in the US. My husband thankfully is able to keep us afloat, but money for trains is very limited. It's far easier for me to justify 20 euros on plasticard, which will give me many hours of building pleasure, than 200 or more on a brass car that I get, go " Ohh. Ahh." and then set on the track. Were I more well off, my attitude could well be different, but I am a builder first and a runner 2nd, in any event!
 
G

garethashenden

Western Thunderer
WM183 said:
Hi Graham,

An Arch Bar truck is a type of truck that was constructed of bolted steel struts and crossmembers. They were very common in the late 1800s and early 1900s as being cheaper to produce than cast trucks, but the bolts, rivets, etc., could come loose over time, leading to rapid unplanned disassembly of the truck, the train, and anything in close proximity to either. They were only banned from cars in interchange service, which meant that cabooses (cabin cars in PRR parlance) or MOW cars could retain them, as could cars on narrow gauge systems like the DRGW, since the cars obviously were captive to the system. I believe the ARA banned them in interchange service in 1928 or 1929 or so.

Per wikipedia, a good photo:
Click to expand...
The archbar ban was 1938 initially, but it got delayed a couple of times with 1941 being the final date. You might be thinking of the wood underframe ban? That was 1928.
 
WM183

WM183

Western Thunderer
Was it 1938? Wow. Yeah, maybe I am thinking of the wooden frame ban. I was sure it was earlier than that!

Thank you for letting me know!

Amanda
 
Northroader

Northroader

Western Thunderer
The arch bar ban applied to movements between different roads, they could still be used on internal service, usually service vehicles.
 
Lyndhurstman

Lyndhurstman

Western Thunderer
WM183 said:
I have finished the roofwalk and ends for the USRA boxcar. The car is coming to completion! I need to make stirrup steps, do the brake details for the underframe, and find a brake wheel, and add cut levers and brake hoses. The amount of effort required to get to this point has been eye opening; there's quite a nice Overland brass version of this car available in 0 scale, and the price now seems a good deal more reasonable, hehe...

...though certainly building one is more fun!
Click to expand...
That;s very wonderful. You and Adam @AJC do wonders in Plasticard. I'm sorely tempted to dip a toe...

Cheers

Jan
 
WM183

WM183

Western Thunderer
Hi Jan,

Do it! Get a pack of styrene and try to build something simple; a grounded van body, a shed, a little house. Plasticard is so much fun to work with. It's inexpensive, forgiving, and requires no special tools. I've even made a coach and a number of British goods wagons so far from scratch. Great material to work with. Do it, and take lots of pics to share =D

Amanda
 
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