LNWR Lady of the Lake

Kevin MH

Western Thunderer
A report on MY Problem Class: I had determined to power the tender. I put two motors and gearboxes in it. A massive failure: they fought each other and destroyed the decoder, drat! After a bit of work, I now have one motor driving the front axle, rigid in the frames, the middle axle floating, and the rear axle rocking. I had to abandon picking up from the middle axle, as the wheels would not turn. It seems to pull well; my rake of five six wheelers is all disassemble and in the paint shop, languishing. I'd post a video, but WT does not facilitate that.
 

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adrian

Flying Squad
I'd post a video, but WT does not facilitate that.
Sorry about that - but video are huge space hogs so just can't accomodate. Better to use a video hosting site, ie youtube or vimeo etc and we'll happily post links to the video.
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
A report on MY Problem Class: I had determined to power the tender. I put two motors and gearboxes in it. A massive failure: they fought each other and destroyed the decoder, drat! After a bit of work, I now have one motor driving the front axle, rigid in the frames, the middle axle floating, and the rear axle rocking. I had to abandon picking up from the middle axle, as the wheels would not turn. It seems to pull well; my rake of five six wheelers is all disassemble and in the paint shop, languishing.

Hi Kevin, Another solution is to create a drive similar to an A-1-A using SDMP/Finney 7 power and remote gearboxes primarily designed for diesels and electrics. Templates can be downloaded to aid planning. SDMP Gearbox and Drive Components for 7mm Scale Model Locomotive Kits

I created a 10' Bo-Bo drive using their Power which attaches to the motor (right) and Remote (left) gearboxes. The issue you may have depending upon whether you are prepared to compromise is the ensemble sits fairly low and may be visible.

Met 49.jpg

Met 51.jpg


I also built one for a battery loco which has a shorter wheelbase.

BEL2 14.jpg

This photo shows how it appears from the side when fitted - the motor is just visible.

BEL2 16.jpg

@john lewsey - apologies for the brief thread hijack. :)
 
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Kevin MH

Western Thunderer
Hi Kevin, Another solution is to create a drive similar to an A-1-A using SDMP/Finney 7 power and remote gearboxes primarily designed for diesels and electrics. Templates can be downloaded to aid planning. SDMP Gearbox and Drive Components for 7mm Scale Model Locomotive Kits

View attachment 267482


I also built one for a battery loco which has a shorter wheelbase.

View attachment 267485

This photo shows how it appears from the side when fitted - the motor is just visible.

View attachment 267486

@john lewsey - apologies for the brief thread hijack. :)
Dave, you anticipated me. I had bought two MSC 25:1 gearboxes, to hang on two axles each with a motor. A dismal failure. Today I (in two attempts) made up a "cannon" bearing. It has a spigot the size of the opening in the gearbox, with a 2mm bore down the length, and sticking out where the motor would be, is a 6mm dia bearing about 10mm long. When mounted on an axle and wheels, it looks like a cannon. I admit I own a lathe. I'll post a pic or two tomorrow. Thanks to John in his forbearance of me hijacking his thread, but most of the notes on my build would just be duplicates of John's, and I don't see much point in a new thread.
 

Kevin MH

Western Thunderer
Hi Kevin, Another solution is to create a drive similar to an A-1-A using SDMP/Finney 7 power and remote gearboxes primarily designed for diesels and electrics. Templates can be downloaded to aid planning. SDMP Gearbox and Drive Components for 7mm Scale Model Locomotive Kits

I created a 10' Bo-Bo drive using their Power which attaches to the motor (right) and Remote (left) gearboxes. The issue you may have depending upon whether you are prepared to compromise is the ensemble sits fairly low and may be visible.

View attachment 267484

View attachment 267482


I also built one for a battery loco which has a shorter wheelbase.

View attachment 267485

This photo shows how it appears from the side when fitted - the motor is just visible.

View attachment 267486

@john lewsey - apologies for the brief thread hijack. :)
Dave, I sent you a PM.
 

NickB

Western Thunderer
Kevin,

My first suspicion would be the axial thrust load of the worms, which reverses direction between forwards and backwards running. It also increases with load on the motor so the problem only appears when moving the tender body. I'm not familiar with the motor but it may not be designed for axial loads in both directions, or it could be the UJ locking up. You could try a different motor but other solutions, such as incorporating thrust bearings on the shaft, aren't so easy.

ABC Gears tender drive units include a spur gear from the motor shaft to a lay shaft that runs between the two axles, and uses helical gears on the final drive - which reduce but don't eliminate the axial thrust. That arrangement does ensure that the axial thrust isn't transmitted to the motor.

Sorry, but I don't have an easy cure.

Nick
 

adrian

Flying Squad
You could try a different motor but other solutions, such as incorporating thrust bearings on the shaft, aren't so easy.
It also might be worth loosening each worm gear and/or UJ joint in turn to see if the issue can be narrowed down to one axle. Although in isolation each maybe fine but working together it may cause the problem.
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
My first suspicion would be the axial thrust load of the worms, which reverses direction between forwards and backwards running. It also increases with load on the motor so the problem only appears when moving the tender body. I'm not familiar with the motor but it may not be designed for axial loads in both directions, or it could be the UJ locking up. You could try a different motor but other solutions, such as incorporating thrust bearings on the shaft, aren't so easy.

ABC Gears tender drive units include a spur gear from the motor shaft to a lay shaft that runs between the two axles, and uses helical gears on the final drive - which reduce but don't eliminate the axial thrust. That arrangement does ensure that the axial thrust isn't transmitted to the motor.

Sorry, but I don't have an easy cure.
LGB put a ball bearing either end of the motor shaft to stop their twin ended motor shafts from moving out of mesh.
It also might be worth loosening each worm gear and/or UJ joint in turn to see if the issue can be narrowed down to one axle. Although in isolation each maybe fine but working together it may cause the problem.

I initially found this type of drive can be tricky to set up and after experimentation I use non-traditional railway modelling solutions, albeit for shorter wheelbases.

One is to use neoprene tube and a ball bearing to create a CV joint (this drive bogie is in my 7mm Met Bo-Bo).
Drive 501.jpg

And in a shorter wheelbase I halved the shafts by grinding a flat on the ends (this drive is on 1/8'' axles and fully compensated using Alan Gibson 4mm hornblocks in a 7mm scale BEL battery loco - fundamentally a wagon chassis).
Drive 500.jpg

In both cases a torque/torsion bar was fitted linking the two gearboxes to minimise fore and aft rocking and lateral twisting. In the wagon chassis I also used a copper tube sleeve to keep the drive line in a straight line.
Drive 503.jpg

Both of these drives work for the applications I use them for.

Once again @john lewsey - apologies for cluttering your thread.
 

john lewsey

Western Thunderer
I initially found this type of drive can be tricky to set up and after experimentation I use non-traditional railway modelling solutions, albeit for shorter wheelbases.

One is to use neoprene tube and a ball bearing to create a CV joint (this drive bogie is in my 7mm Met Bo-Bo).
View attachment 267878

And in a shorter wheelbase I halved the shafts by grinding a flat on the ends (this drive is on 1/8'' axles and fully compensated using Alan Gibson 4mm hornblocks in a 7mm scale BEL battery loco - fundamentally a wagon chassis).
View attachment 267877

In both cases a torque/torsion bar was fitted linking the two gearboxes to minimise fore and aft rocking and lateral twisting. In the wagon chassis I also used a copper tube sleeve to keep the drive line in a straight line.
View attachment 267879

Both of these drives work for the applications I use them for.

Once again @john lewsey - apologies for cluttering your thread.
I don't mind, it's all interesting
 

Kevin MH

Western Thunderer
Kevin,

My first suspicion would be the axial thrust load of the worms, which reverses direction between forwards and backwards running. It also increases with load on the motor so the problem only appears when moving the tender body. I'm not familiar with the motor but it may not be designed for axial loads in both directions, or it could be the UJ locking up. You could try a different motor but other solutions, such as incorporating thrust bearings on the shaft, aren't so easy.

ABC Gears tender drive units include a spur gear from the motor shaft to a lay shaft that runs between the two axles, and uses helical gears on the final drive - which reduce but don't eliminate the axial thrust. That arrangement does ensure that the axial thrust isn't transmitted to the motor.

Sorry, but I don't have an easy cure.

Nick
Nick, thanks for the thoughts. I ASSUME the motor has thrust bearings. The universal is hard against the cannon bearing on the right, so that acts as a thrust bearing, and the worm on the right is also against the cannon bearing.

I have coming today a coupling that can replace the universal, and thus make the drive shaft rigid. I have hope.

ABC as you write is no longer making the remote gear boxes with the shaft continuous from front to back. The fact that there are spur gears in the system means indeed that there is essentially no thrust load on the motor. That may be the secret sauce, but ABC says it can no longer "get the gears", not specifying which gears are NLA.
 

Kevin MH

Western Thunderer
I initially found this type of drive can be tricky to set up and after experimentation I use non-traditional railway modelling solutions, albeit for shorter wheelbases.

One is to use neoprene tube and a ball bearing to create a CV joint (this drive bogie is in my 7mm Met Bo-Bo).
View attachment 267878

And in a shorter wheelbase I halved the shafts by grinding a flat on the ends (this drive is on 1/8'' axles and fully compensated using Alan Gibson 4mm hornblocks in a 7mm scale BEL battery loco - fundamentally a wagon chassis).
View attachment 267877

In both cases a torque/torsion bar was fitted linking the two gearboxes to minimise fore and aft rocking and lateral twisting. In the wagon chassis I also used a copper tube sleeve to keep the drive line in a straight line.
View attachment 267879

Both of these drives work for the applications I use them for.

Once again @john lewsey - apologies for cluttering your thread.
I'm not sure I don't want lateral twisting; I want the four wheels all on the track at the same time, for current collection and traction. I could still have a torsion bar between them. I could fit a tube to one of the gearboxes, with a wire soldered to the other. This would fight pitching while allowing twisting. I'll have a think about that.

I'm not sure the universal I fitted is a good thing. Today I get a rigid coupling to replace it, we'll see what that does.

Do small motors sold for model trains NOT have thrust bearings?
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Might it be something as simple as putting a washer between the motor and the worm at one end and the motor and UJ at the other?
 
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