Your DCC system

[Simon]

Coincidentally, my wireless Multimaus has arrived and I have been reading the instructions. I will shortly have the fun of seeing if I can juggle two then three locomotives as I can program with this new fangled wireless handset. It will probably help if I put some batteries in it first though.

There's also a disc for insertion in the PC and a computery cable so no doubt all sorts of clevernesses are possible

I have further taken the plunge and ordered a Dietz sound chip for the Standard Feldbahn Diesel for my 48DS, which will connect to the Lenz Gold via the SUSI interface. (Blimey, I sound as if I know what I'm doing) Some delicate soldering will be required though.

Although this Dietz sound chippy thing wont "change gear", it has a satisfying start and low revving noise and I think even the horn is passable, although the bell noise definitely isn't.

If you want to hear it then go to http://www.d-i-e-t-z.de/, click on "sounds", then "micro", then "LIEFERLISTE", it's some way down towards the bottom, code VL-F-STD.

That's costing me £70 plus the speaker and a bit for post - I'd better not fry it all!

It will be very interesting to see what the wireless range is, will I be able to run trains from the breakfast table?

Simon

 

[mickoo]

Steph,

Ok way ahead on some aspects there LOL, will discuss them IDC below. in answer to your questions.

1. Yes the full system http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROCO-MULTIMAUS-DCC-CONTROLLER-/230797551605#ht_5361wt_1397
2. Not a problem, Learning curve, well I hope not, if I cannot use Lokprogrammer then I need to look for a new job LOL
3. At least 90% of the sounds I want are already in their library, I like UK stuff and if going that route would purchase SWD et al but until a few days ago did not know that all these Euro and US sounds existed, probably because all sound chipped locos I'd seen and heard were in UK exhibitions!.
4. Having zero experience with any DCC controller I have to begin somewhere , Multimaus has several advocates here, it has a rotary speed controller (mandatory factor #1 for me) so it should do me. Power may be an issue but as I'm shunting and not ripping along with huge loads on the back then 2.5A may well be enough, certainly to begin with, if I need more then I will have to source a booster

Now, Lokprogrammer, indeed you can download the latest programmer from ESU (free), I've installed and begun to play with files downloaded from their library, you can use V3.5 sounds for 4.0, it simply asks you if you wish to update the format, you say yes and it is all there for you to play with. What has stunned me are the throttle maps, it varies by a stellar margin between locos, the DSB My has only 2-3 steps, the SNCB 62/55 and DSB Mz are better but the EMD 645-16 (SD40 and ironically DSB Mz etc) has loads of steps, the throttle map is amazing and so fine tunned its incredible.

Now, the 645-16 for the US engine is much better mapped than the DSB Mz so I'm wondering if it is possible to pull that map and sounds from the 645 and place them into the Mz map, or, it might be easier to keep the 645 file and swap out the horns etc?. Additionally, the number of functions seems to vary with what ever file you download, all are 4.0XL but the bigger files seem to hold more options, I presume the decoder simply ignores those not used in the 'lite' files. I'd also want to swap out the talking and guards whistles etc and swap in shunting clunks and clanks, it'd be nice to have a buffer clunk triggered by compress able buffer micro switches....another reason for going 4.0 as the decoder has more external options etc I believe?.

Right, time to go and play (whilst the manual prints out) and see if I can make my own bespoke sound set up, I'd dismissed Euro locos in favour of US locos due simply to the lack of sounds, now I have both I'm stuck between a hard place and a rock in deciding a future project...aaagh, sometimes ignorance really is bliss.

Thanks for all the feedback thus far.

Kindest

 

[mickoo]

It will probably help if I put some batteries in it first though.

It will be very interesting to see what the wireless range is, will I be able to run trains from the breakfast table?

Simon

Yes, batteries are rather fundamental to remote hand sets LOL, be it DCC, TV, Satellite or Play station.

When I got married I told my future wife two things, never get between me and my breakfast or my wallet, the former has worked for 25 years, the latter....lost that battle in the first few days LOL.

I am tempted by the 'blue' remote set up, except the price, so red 'corded' will be my first choice to begin with.

I've read about this SUSI, not understand much of it though, thank goodness for Google!, hoping to avoid such chinanigans by opting for almost compatible systems.

Kindest

 

[Simon Dunkley]

Although this Dietz sound chippy thing wont "change gear", it has a satisfying start and low revving noise and I think even the horn is passable, although the bell noise definitely isn't.

Just a thought, but if you can do manual notching of the sounds, you could imitate the effect of changing gear.

 

[Simon]

I'm just playing with the Multimaus pro - its pretty awesome!

Unfortunatly it's raining so I've got D6319 sat on a yard of track in the old kitchen, but the range seems pretty good.

I can lie on the bed upstairs and blow my horn and being able to wander around the place and control the beastie is just amazing.

I'm delving into the programming side and am currently trying to work out how to re-name existing loco and get numbers into the name on the library.

Unbelievably clever, unlike its operator

Simon

 

[Simon]

Well, I've sussed that out (I'm not a great texter), next thing is to fit one of the Lenz Golds that I got from Steph into another loco I guess.

I've worked out what the difference between actual decoder address and library decoder address is I think - I have to change the former from the default "3" value on each new loco added to the system by changing the value of CV1 to whatever value I assign to the new loco in the library.

But then I slightly wonder why CV1 is always set to 3 as a default, ie why not 1 or 2? Not that it matters....

Time to make a coffee

 

[mickoo]

Excellent news, my 'non' pro system is in the post , all I need now is the programmer (couple of sites on the radar for purchase) and a decoder....and there in lies the crossroads of the whole episode. If I go for O gauge modelling then I can get away with a standard V4.0 which are readily available in the UK, if I go for 1:32 then I really need the XL V4.0 which is like hens teeth, its cheaper to buy from the US than anywhere else, more abundant too, though some German sites are pretty close. I also have this in the post , been waiting for years for this to be reprinted http://www.ekshop.de/shop/article_0...ias-Maier.html?shop_param=cid=1&aid=00000208& and I've just seen a copy of the V100 which I'll pick up later this week .

Kindest

 

[daifly]

Excellent news, my 'non' pro system is in the post , all I need now is the programmer (couple of sites on the radar for purchase) and a decoder....and there in lies the crossroads of the whole episode. If I go for O gauge modelling then I can get away with a standard V4.0 which are readily available in the UK, if I go for 1:32 then I really need the XL V4.0 which is like hens teeth, its cheaper to buy from the US than anywhere else, more abundant too, though some German sites are pretty close.

To obviate any unpleasant HMRC shocks, the German sites would avoid any import duties which may well make them the cheaper option overall.

 

[mickoo]

To obviate any unpleasant HMRC shocks, the German sites would avoid any import duties which may well make them the cheaper option overall.

Yes I think that's sound advice.

Well finally joined the DCC crowd, box arrived yesterday with new shiny Multimaus in, just need some decoders and other paraphernalia to proceed .

Kindest

 

[Simon]

Yes I think that's sound advice.

Well finally joined the DCC crowd, box arrived yesterday with new shiny Multimaus in, just need some decoders and other paraphernalia to proceed .

Kindest

Excellent news - you won't regret it

My Dietz sound chip arrived today, complete with a funky 1" square(ish) speaker which I will hopefully fit into the Ruston's bonnet.

Only problem is that the enclosed instructions are all Deutsche to me and don't appear to tell you what goes where on the SUSI interface with the (Lenz Gold) chip. Also, the (SUSI) wires end in a connector which I don't have the equivalent for on the Gold chip. Oh well, I'm off to search the Internet for clues, if anyone knows the answers please do "chip" in

Edit: Found info on web for what each wire on the Dietz is and corresponding info on manual for Lenz chip, so I now know what goes where.

Just the worry about frying the chip when I solder to those tiny brass pads now....

Simon

 

[daifly]

If you missed out last time on the Multimaus Pro that Simon bought, the same supplier seems to have 3 more!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROCO-MULT...=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item35bd2bdde7

 

[Steve Cook]

Cheers for the heads up daifly
Had another chat with Simon this evening, confirmed that his kit was all still working and decided I'd quite like to be runing my garden line without being tethered to the shed - I've got one on the way

Best start chipping the Pannier then....

 

[Simon]

Great news!

If my experience with it is anything to go by you will find it much easier to just nip out and run a train, the lack of wires to trip over and the ability to position oneself anywhere while still controlling the train are really good features - and that's without exploring the extra possibilities that DCC opens up.

I very much look forward to seeing pictures of your Pannier running up to your halt

Simon

 

[Steve Cook]

If my experience with it is anything to go by you will find it much easier to just nip out and run a train, the lack of wires to trip over and the ability to position oneself anywhere while still controlling the train are really good features - and that's without exploring the extra possibilities that DCC opens up.

My thoughts exactly I hope I shall end up using the line more because I can change view points and still watch the trains run - that should increase its play value immensely

I very much look forward to seeing pictures of your Pannier running up to your halt
Simon

Me too

 

[Caggers]

Hello, I have Digitrax Zephyr system with a DT400 handset and have connected it through a PR3 to JMRI on a laptop and setup the throttle on my 'droid phone. This all still works as I use it for testing an a rolling road.
I started about 10 years ago while living in the US, but haven't got much further than running locos. I did however bring some of the Digitrax sound chips back which I have fiddled with as a basic sound chip I guess they are not TOOO bad.
This is/was on my 4mm layout I was building at the time, which has since been disposed of before the move back to the motherland.
I do plan on DCC in my J72 0 gauge loco when I build it and will be fitting sound.

 

[Dog Star]

If this is the wrong place to post this message then maybe Cynric can more somewhere more appropriate...

When wiring a layoiut for DCC, what is the most suitable wire given that there could be between 3 and 5 amps running in the power bus? In the past I have used 1.5mm dia single core copper wire from househokld wiring... can still do so if that is usable.

Again, connecting the power bus to the individual baseboards... power bus direct to each board or a daisy chain through all boardxs? What connectors are going to be suitable for such current loadings?

thank you, Graham

 

[Ressaldar]

Hi Graham,

we are using 1.omm2 T&E with the copper earth stripped out between Squires 10 amp chocholate blocks - the type with the push in connectors for the inter board connections - only started the exercise last week so i cannot tell you if it works - we hope that it does! Will be soldering the droppers ( using the same wire as the bus-bar) in tonight and then will be using snaplock connectors for the joint to the bus-bar. We went for the snaplocks as the layout will not be outside at anytime for moisture to get into them.

Hope that this helps, will post a few pictures soon.

cheers

Mike

 

[Dog Star]

we are using 1.omm2 T&E with the copper earth stripped out between Squires 10 amp chocholate blocks - the type with the push in connectors for the inter board connections - only started the exercise last week so i cannot tell you if it works - we hope that it does! Will be soldering the droppers ( using the same wire as the bus-bar) in tonight and then will be using snaplock connectors for the joint to the bus-bar. We went for the snaplocks as the layout will not be outside at anytime for moisture to get into them.

Hello Mike,
I have done as you have written for our FoD Layout "Scrufts Junction" and there has been no problem with either the power buses or the connectors between the central control cupboard and the boards.
I used mulitstrand copper wire for the control to board connections because of the flexibility - cannot see 1.0mm sq single core standing up to the rigour of connecting boards of a portable layout.

Why use snaplocks for the droppers when you are soldering one end of the dropper to the rails? I guess that the issue is that of stripping the insulation from the power bus. I used the copper earth for the power bus and the red / black wires as the droppers.

regards, Graham

 

[Steve Cook]

As a running update on the MultimausPro system....

I took my handset down to Simon's over the weekend to see if we could work out how to add my handset to his base station and thus allow the pair of us to walk around the line controlling engines. You can't follow quite the same method as when synching up first time round, but there are instructions in the manual (Section 3.6 - found eventually ) and it works like a dream. I did have to re-synch my handset to my base station when I got home, but one keeps the loco roster during this process so its no real loss and it means I can keep a track of the loco addresses Simon has already used so I don't duplicate.

No video I'm afraid, but here we have the hardtop and convertible Ruston 48DS range with both handsets. An interesting point to note is that on this Roco system (not sure about the multimaus) you choose the name you want your loco to operate from on the handset, then assign that name the decoder address. When you scroll through the loco roster then, you see the name you have chosen, not the four digit address. One can be sensible like Simon and call your Ruston 48DS, slightly immature and call it Rusty like me, or perhaps inappropriately for a forum, expand ones usage of angle saxon swear words as long as they are less then five letters.



If you call up a loco that another handset is already in control of, the loco symbol on the display flashes. We discovered however, that the system responds to the last command from either handset which can add to the fun (slow down someone elses train or blow the horn) or create massive confusion (slow down someone elses train or blow the horn). Its big advantage is in being able to handover control to someone else, although as the speed of the loco i not displayed it can be a bit challanging.

Now all we need is another handset and we'll go for three on one base station and see what happens....

 

[Simon]

As a running update on the MultimausPro system....

I took my handset down to Simon's over the weekend to see if we could work out how to add my handset to his base station and thus allow the pair of us to walk around the line controlling engines. You can't follow quite the same method as when synching up first time round, but there are instructions in the manual (Section 3.6 - found eventually ) and it works like a dream. I did have to re-synch my handset to my base station when I got home, but one keeps the loco roster during this process so its no real loss and it means I can keep a track of the loco addresses Simon has already used so I don't duplicate.

No video I'm afraid, but here we have the hardtop and convertible Ruston 48DS range with both handsets. An interesting point to note is that on this Roco system (not sure about the multimaus) you choose the name you want your loco to operate from on the handset, then assign that name the decoder address. When you scroll through the loco roster then, you see the name you have chosen, not the four digit address. One can be sensible like Simon and call your Ruston 48DS, slightly immature and call it Rusty like me, or perhaps inappropriately for a forum, expand ones usage of angle saxon swear words as long as they are less then five letters.

View attachment 12660

If you call up a loco that another handset is already in control of, the loco symbol on the display flashes. We discovered however, that the system responds to the last command from either handset which can add to the fun (slow down someone elses train or blow the horn) or create massive confusion (slow down someone elses train or blow the horn). Its big advantage is in being able to handover control to someone else, although as the speed of the loco i not displayed it can be a bit challanging.

Now all we need is another handset and we'll go for three on one base station and see what happens....

Thanks for recording all that and posting it here Steve

Huge fun as you say.

The even better news (from yesterday evening's running session with Harry) is that I simply plugged the (original non r/c) Multimaus handset into one of the three available "Roconet" sockets on the central unit and had immediate control in exactly the way that you describe. So I renamed the original (German loco with set) description of default 3 to "D6319", added "48DS" and "MWDLE" as new locos and bingo!

Plug and play isn't it?

I was then able to perplex Harry with additional bee-barps from my position in the shed door before he worked out what was going on

Simon