Wantage Tramway Jane No. 5 in 4mm

B

Bigjohn

Western Thunderer
Simond
Not sure of the exact science or logic, I would never rotate a reamer but only use uni directional. I have never understood the use of jobbers drills in an Archimedean type holder. A spade type drill is appropriate. Perhaps it goes back to only using a file or hacksaw in the correct pull/push mode. It just seems illogical logic if that makes sense!!!!!!!!!
 
michael080

michael080

Western Thunderer
Simon,

a slippery slope, this is not my native language, so broaching and reaming may need a closer definiton.

https://shop.machinemfg.com/drilling-boring-broaching-and-reaming-key-differences-explained/

is quite informative.

My understanding is that a broach is used to push a specially shaped hole into an existing (round) hole.

https://cdn.hoffmann-group.com/derivatives/203065/jpg_600/jpg_600_b290406.jpg

A reamer is a tool that rotates like a drill bit. It is used to finish a hole to a certain diameter with a certain surface quality.

https://cdn.hoffmann-group.com/derivatives/45512/jpg_600/jpg_600_g160100_a.jpg

Referring to my earlier post, I should have written "I learned that a reamer must never be turned backwards."
 
Last edited:
K

King Crab

Western Thunderer
Hi Ade

I am trying to put together a Shannon model too.
So I went to Didcot and crawled all over the engine, taking snaps of all the bits that I couldn't understand from the drawings.
Including underneath!

I have put around 80 of the photos on the Wetransfer site, totalling about 35MB of files.

WeTransfer | Send Large Files Fast

The simple, quick and secure way to send your files around the world without an account. Share your files, photos, and videos today for free.
we.tl we.tl

Just Click on the link to download.
I only have a free service so they are only available for the next three days.
If you don't manage to catch them in time, let me know and I will upload them again.

If anybody else is interested, feel free to download.

Peter

A sample image here of the backhead:
1694105150281 copy.jpg
 
simond

simond

Western Thunderer
michael080 said:
Simon,

a slippery slope, this is not my native language, so broaching and reaming may need a closer definiton.

https://shop.machinemfg.com/drilling-boring-broaching-and-reaming-key-differences-explained/

is quite informative.

My understanding is that a broach is used to push a specially shaped hole into an existing (round) hole.

https://cdn.hoffmann-group.com/derivatives/203065/jpg_600/jpg_600_b290406.jpg

A reamer is a tool that rotates like a drill bit. It is used to finish a hole to a certain diameter with a certain surface quality.

https://cdn.hoffmann-group.com/derivatives/45512/jpg_600/jpg_600_g160100_a.jpg

Referring to my earlier post, I should have written "I learned that a reamer must never be turned backwards."
Click to expand...
Ok, Michael, we’re on the same page!

the reamer is a forward facing cutting tool, typically cylindrical, of precise diameter, (though hand reamers will have a taper of maybe one third of their length to assist entry - machine reamers will only have a chamfer), and generally used as a finishing cutter. Whilst I doubt it’ll do any harm to turn it backwards (apart from very local work hardening of the workpiece perhaps) it won’t cut if you do.

The broaches in your illustrations are what I was referring to, and are longitudinal cutting tools.

the pentagonal ”broaches” that we‘re discussing are neither, so they are probably ill-named.

Something like “tapered multi-faceted bore scraper” perhaps :)
 
Last edited:
Overseer

Overseer

Western Thunderer
King Crab said:
I am trying to put together a Shannon model too.
So I went to Didcot and crawled all over the engine, taking snaps of all the bits that I couldn't understand from the drawings.
Including underneath!
Click to expand...
Did you measure the cylinders? Both versions of the MRJ drawing have very oversized cylinders, as does the earlier magazine drawing. The 1947 GWR diagram is more accurate. Just something to look out for.
 
spikey faz

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
King Crab said:
Hi Ade

I am trying to put together a Shannon model too.
So I went to Didcot and crawled all over the engine, taking snaps of all the bits that I couldn't understand from the drawings.
Including underneath!

I have put around 80 of the photos on the Wetransfer site, totalling about 35MB of files.

WeTransfer | Send Large Files Fast

The simple, quick and secure way to send your files around the world without an account. Share your files, photos, and videos today for free.
we.tl we.tl

Just Click on the link to download.
I only have a free service so they are only available for the next three days.
If you don't manage to catch them in time, let me know and I will upload them again.

If anybody else is interested, feel free to download.

Peter

A sample image here of the backhead:
View attachment 233641
Click to expand...
I've just had a scoot through your pictures. Great wealth of detail there for anyone contemplating a model of this locomotive.

Mike
 
K

King Crab

Western Thunderer
Overseer said:
Did you measure the cylinders? Both versions of the MRJ drawing have very oversized cylinders, as does the earlier magazine drawing. The 1947 GWR diagram is more accurate. Just something to look out for.
Click to expand...
I didn't put a measuring tape over the cylinders, sorry.
Thanks for the heads up.

Peter
 
AdeMoore

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
King Crab said:
Hi Ade

I am trying to put together a Shannon model too.
So I went to Didcot and crawled all over the engine, taking snaps of all the bits that I couldn't understand from the drawings.
Including underneath!

I have put around 80 of the photos on the Wetransfer site, totalling about 35MB of files.

WeTransfer | Send Large Files Fast

The simple, quick and secure way to send your files around the world without an account. Share your files, photos, and videos today for free.
we.tl we.tl

Just Click on the link to download.
I only have a free service so they are only available for the next three days.
If you don't manage to catch them in time, let me know and I will upload them again.

If anybody else is interested, feel free to download.

Peter

A sample image here of the backhead:
View attachment 233641
Click to expand...
Sorry Peter just logged back in to the thread, I missed a load of posts here! My notifications don’t work half the time for some reason. If you wouldnt mind sharing the link again I’ll keep my eye out for your post.
Much obliged.
 
AdeMoore

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
Might be closer to getting the chassis in the jig after a few more hours done. Where does the time go!
So the dilemma was 2 coupling rods with oval holes soldered in with brass tube, no knowing if the 4 x bits of brass tube in anyway lined up. The ovals originally filed out to get the chassis to run were pretty generous!
The crankpin brass bearings for want of a better word are 1.5mm OD so the new reamers were set to work as you helpful chaps advised.

3D5E60F5-2E89-43B7-8C7B-00E2DD553AD7.jpeg

1E131E00-E2D6-4109-9254-081717933C81.jpeg

40A10058-A2DE-4D0E-9B79-D5D1C9396AC6.jpeg

9495CF51-BE36-4646-97B5-B0F9397EDFC3.jpeg

Working from both sides works, so you can keep a good 90 deg to the piece.
I didn’t have a 1.5mm in my set closest was 1.6mm I accidentally went all the way down. Ah! I rolled with it making sure the other end and one on the next rod were 1.5mm by using the vernier and marking the shank with marker pen.
Then the fun and games trying to judge a centre on the last end to make a matched pair!
By eye I drilled a 1mm hole central as I could.

DF457A8A-032D-4DDE-A177-7B264FFB36BF.jpeg

Then using a 2.3mm reamer which fitted the hole I scribed an arc!

83AD5823-C7A2-4887-9787-99911C5250EC.jpeg

umm off centre. But then I realised the brass insert I filed up In the drill was not perfect in the hole, so I superglued that in and repeated the proces.

22465D58-4CC4-4361-A6B3-33FBA24AB75F.jpeg

89B3CCDB-650E-426E-8427-DBE868DBD2B5.jpeg6663A433-65CA-47EC-8EFD-08159263A351.jpeg692AD94D-2302-4298-81AE-56FE95DC8BD5.jpeg

That looked like luck was on my side so in with the reamer on the last hole.
Sat them on the jig then found Id lost a crankpin bearing in the intervening years to now!
I had 6 think I destroyed 2 filing them down . See if I can find one or make another!

32D3013E-939E-4EA1-86E6-79DBA4BE70B7.jpeg

59ECE322-1327-4D05-A980-06B0951E95C7.jpeg

Thanks for your likes and interest.
More soon.
 

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AdeMoore

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
Progress has slowed, not that it was ever anymore than glacial!
The Markits crankpin bush has been lost X 1.
As I thought I butchered 2 of the 6 I had in the early days!
Searching online Wizard appear to have them but silly price. Bob a Scalelink showed an image of a pack but after an email exchange I found out Mark the proprietor of Markits had sadly recently passed away. Bob has no stock, and Marks widow is yet to decide on if or when anything will be sold up.

I think I can make one a sleeve maybe rather than a top hat version.
Just need to find my tube stock.741FA60C-8B85-4104-9CA8-71A58B28B7C2.jpegDE92DE3C-B150-4F79-869B-F9193CC81A9C.jpeg
 
Last edited:
simond

simond

Western Thunderer
AdeMoore said:
Might be closer to getting the chassis in the jig after a few more hours done. Where does the time go!
So the dilemma was 2 coupling rods with oval holes soldered in with brass tube, no knowing if the 4 x bits of brass tube in anyway lined up. The ovals originally filed out to get the chassis to run were pretty generous!
The crankpin brass bearings for want of a better word are 1.5mm OD so the new reamers were set to work as you helpful chaps advised.

View attachment 234598

View attachment 234601

View attachment 234604

View attachment 234603

Working from both sides works, so you can keep a good 90 deg to the piece.
I didn’t have a 1.5mm in my set closest was 1.6mm I accidentally went all the way down. Ah! I rolled with it making sure the other end and one on the next rod were 1.5mm by using the vernier and marking the shank with marker pen.
Then the fun and games trying to judge a centre on the last end to make a matched pair!
By eye I drilled a 1mm hole central as I could.

View attachment 234588

Then using a 2.3mm reamer which fitted the hole I scribed an arc!

View attachment 234589

umm off centre. But then I realised the brass insert I filed up In the drill was not perfect in the hole, so I superglued that in and repeated the proces.

View attachment 234590

View attachment 234593View attachment 234594View attachment 234592

That looked like luck was on my side so in with the reamer on the last hole.
Sat them on the jig then found Id lost a crankpin bearing in the intervening years to now!
I had 6 think I destroyed 2 filing them down . See if I can find one or make another!

View attachment 234596

View attachment 234595

Thanks for your likes and interest.
More soon.
Click to expand...
Ade,

in your picture I can see both rods on the same end of the extended axles. This may be ok, but can amplify any errors in the axle spacing in your chassis,

Once you’ve established that the rods are the same, you really want the rods one on each end of the axles, to set & check the chassis to the rods.

hth
Simon
 
AdeMoore

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
simond said:
Ade,

in your picture I can see both rods on the same end of the extended axles. This may be ok, but can amplify any errors in the axle spacing in your chassis,

Once you’ve established that the rods are the same, you really want the rods one on each end of the axles, to set & check the chassis to the rods.

hth
Simon
Click to expand...
Cheers Simon, yeah was aware, I just launched the rod on with the other as I’d lost the bush! Just to give an inclination as to roughly matching centres.
So once I’ve made another crankpin bush I’ll put the 2nd one over on the other side. Stick the vernier on em and see where we are, I doubt they will be dead the same somehow!
But we’ll see..
Thanks for keeping me on the straight and narrow.
 
K

King Crab

Western Thunderer
AdeMoore said:
Sorry Peter just logged back in to the thread, I missed a load of posts here! My notifications don’t work half the time for some reason. If you wouldnt mind sharing the link again I’ll keep my eye out for your post.
Much obliged.
Click to expand...
Ok

I've uploaded all the Shannon photo files to Wetransfer again.
here's the link:

SHANNON SEND folder

151 files sent via WeTransfer, the simplest way to send your files around the world
we.tl we.tl
Available for just three days, hurry now!

Peter
 
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