Wantage Tramway Jane No. 5 in 4mm

AdeMoore

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
AdeMoore said:
Cheers Paul for the info. Yes great idea RE the rods on a fine flat file. I now remember I actually have the hornways! /guides for the hornblocks I bought 25 plus years ago. I wonder if I can find them!
Click to expand...
Found em! They were there on page one of the thread when I looked back!
Bet you can’t get them for £2.80 now!
A1CE3418-2B65-46A6-A07F-EE6EFF862A1F.jpeg
So how do you solder the guides without making the whole thing solid?
I’ll have to stick it in the poppies jig to start.
 
AdeMoore

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
King Crab said:
Ade

I still haven't got around to making a start on building my own copy of the etch!
So I am following your build with great interest,

Peter
Click to expand...
Peter this is more of a how not to, rather than a how to! But hopefully you and others can learn from my many dead ends and mistakes! Cheers though. Dave’s thread over on RMWeb is the one to follow, if Dave put the photos back after the crash.
 
AdeMoore

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
Was trying to find the coupling rods, looked in my box of No.5 bits in the drawer anywhere.
Then it suddenly dawned I had them out and soldered brass tubes in them, they were sat on my bench in plain sight! Forgot all about them as it was a few weeks ago.
I stripped out the motor all back to the chassis looking at it now it’s pretty poor but I stick with it a sows ear it maybe but it’s had a journey!
There was much excess solder where I want the horn block guides to go, so spent some time cleaning that back.
Got the chassis in the poppies jig. That’s when I realised next I needed the coupling rods.
Funny thing on my bench I put my vice to my right as I’m right handed but cutting inline with the jaws meant I had to do do that left handed! Not had that before strange.

D7A8824B-1B03-4C7F-B206-81DE84775100.jpeg

F8C883CA-6949-4B32-9737-0F47B85D22EC.jpeg

Bit of filing up required on those. Also work out how I should pair them up and bore/ream out the holes perfectly.

ACFFCF15-CEE2-44E9-BF52-C6AB0FB315F7.jpeg

Then once I’ve got it all jigged up it will be an attempt to solder the guides in.
I’ve forgotten why I didn’t use the guides originally. I expect I mention it if I could be bothered to scroll back!
What I did was cut the slot in the frames to take the axle block then open up the axle block slots to the frame thickness. I think maybe as they are too tall but can be cut down a mystery. Anyway that’s what I intend to do and use just the holding part of the etch.

7CC918F1-28BA-49B7-9A1B-CD24F27D73B1.jpeg
Thanks for the likes and the comment.
More soon.
 
AdeMoore

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
Ok a bit more to add!
Think I mentioned I bought some broaches to open out holes as advised many time variously on here and over on RM.
Minefield but I plumted for these handleless cheapies!
So as I needed them next made some handles for them.

AFC82132-543A-449E-B9C3-20F25FAFE76C.jpeg

Then chiselled a flat spot to label them after measuring in the vernier. Random sizes not sure I knew what they were on purchase just smallest 0.9mm largest 4mm!

44633A2D-FBD4-4B40-9FDA-959392E36157.jpeg
Next up using them to open out the coupling rod! Not Goofled it but I guess in the vice by eye is the only way?

4895297C-B309-44F8-BE28-0EF61CFD6ADC.jpeg

ah not like that but like this!

1DC34BB0-76D8-4015-8DB7-81E947A88522.jpeg

Then doing the other end as a pair?
Any pointers appreciated.
Cheers.
 
simond

simond

Western Thunderer
Ade,

if they’re the same as mine, they have a cylindrical part (you can measure this diameter) - the short end is square and can fit a tap wrench, but your handles look like a good idea, and the long end will be a five sided taper with sharp corners, they’re the cutting edges. My approach is to put them in the hole and gently turn, you’ll feel the cutting. I’d suggest a couple of turns from one side and then a couple from the other, and keep checking that the hole doesn’t get too large. I’d do one at a time. I do it by eye as well. I don’t generally put the parts in the vice to open out holes.

if you go gently, they should just open up concentrically, and leave you a nice round hole.

hth
Simon
 
AdeMoore

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
Ah ok cheers Simon, they had a sharp point on the shall we call handle end. Didn’t occur to use a wrench. Would need to buy one to go down to the minimum sizes.
Right attack from both sides, see that another great tip.
Thanks for the advice.
 
B

Bigjohn

Western Thunderer
Steady up Ade……you are starting on the dangerous slope of buying tools……….you will end up like most of us with more tools than models. Most of us have only a distant memory of the first scratch build when the scrap bin was unknown.
Stay warm and well, keep at it we are all with you on your build ATB. John.
PS you might consider a pin chuck to hold broaches……gives a better sense of feel. May be easier to hold
 
Last edited:
simond

simond

Western Thunderer
michael080 said:
Not sure if this is valid for these small, simple broaches, I learned that a broach must never be turned backwards.
Click to expand...
That’s interesting, Michael. Do you know why?

I think these are not strictly broaches, which I understand to be a tapered tool with multiple “concentric“ cutting edges which is pulled through the workpiece.

these are tapered, and ground to a pentagonal form. I do not think it is handed, so I can’t imagine how you could know if you were turning it forwards or backwards?

I suspect that it might be applicable to reamers, which are certainly handed? Then again, in our model world, we’re typically cutting softer metals such as brass, so it seems unlikely that the cutting edge would be damaged.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
What's New?
Top