Herb Garden
Western Thunderer
You've just inspired a project for next year Richard. Skeetsmere in the 50s! Now where is heljians website.....?
The "fond memory" seems to be a recurring theme from people who actually used them, both in the UK and the place that inspired them, West Germany...I follow a Facebook page that is mostly about the Uerdingen railbuses and it seems that even today they are a big hit both with railfans and the general public.
I've a vague recollection that a similar service was proposed for the K&ESR when the railbus was based there. It was certainly used for trips between Bodiam and Dixter Halt (just west of Northiam, and now closed) before that section of the line reopened...my trip took place one summer evening as a "Magical Mystery Tour " by vintage coach from Eastbourne, organised by Eastbourne MRS. The track was mostly hidden in the grass, and we chased a few sheep along part of the line.
Ian@StEnochs
Western Thunderer
I had a couple of trips between Ayr and Kilmarnock in the Park Royal rail bus when I was a lad. It was good from a spotters viewpoint, you got to see the road from the drivers viewpoint, but the ride as I recall was ‘lively’ to say the least. OK probably running a bit faster than current preserved line speeds but the sudden lurch to right or left on entering a switch was a bit disconcerting as was the nodding donkey motion on plain track. No welded rail then.
RichardG
Western Thunderer
Heljan produced the AC Cars railbus in 7mm scale and they can be had secondhand. There were a few liveries, one was Heljan model number 88911.
I would recommend watching one running before buying. The chassis has no suspension (and no coning on the wheels either) and mine resembled the mechanical hare at the dogs. The backs of the wheels need skimming to let the model get through 0-MF pointwork; I did this but I was never really happy with the model and it is now sold.
RichardG
Western Thunderer
. . . actually, this was also a mistake. If you are going to twist the axlebox keeper plates to resemble the GER design, it would be better to emboss the bolt heads after forming the parts. But this is proving a bit too intricate for me, so I will leave the keeper plates straight to match my other GER wagons.
Meanwhile, I have taken a break from the body of the sand wagon to build the roof.
I am using the RSU and the microflame torch for nearly all of the assembly, and the result is needing very little clean up. Well, so far.
Faults like this crooked hinge show up much more clearly in photos. If fact I could hardly see this on the model, but I did put it right.
Just a knife blade under the hinge and a brief application of the micro flame torch. The hinge simply lifted away, I cleaned it up and put it back. I could not have done this a few years ago.
The door stops bring the need to put small castings onto a large expanse of brass. I am told I can use the RSU to do this but I haven’t yet sussed out a method without melting the casting.
My method is therefore to solder them up quite generously underneath with the iron, look for a trace of solder on the good side, and then clean up underneath (next photo).
The brackets underneath are mine, to try to make the roof detachable. At the moment, the roof wants to sit ever so slightly skew, just enough to annoy me, so I may end up with a few blobs of glue on these brackets after painting.
Completed roof.
Earlier this year I was muttering on here about a "plateau" in my modelling ability and do I think I have finally taken a step up thanks to the RSU. There is no mechanical cleaning up here except underneath the door stops. Having such a fine kit to build helps too.
simond
Western Thunderer
"I am told I can use the RSU to do this but I haven’t yet sussed out a method without melting the casting."
Richard, my method is as follows.
tin brass with ordinary solder, ideally a layer one atom thick. A little more is probably ok
tin W/M item with 70 deg solder, ideally a few microns thick
apply flux to brass
locate W/M item and secure with scalpel tip or whatever - if you can arrange gravity to help, so much the better.
Apply RSU to brass, close to item being soldered - say 5-10mm away. Either side, doesn't matter.
Press on toe-switch and watch the edge of the W/M part - you'll see the 70C solder melt and the part will settle.
Remove toe from switch and wait for it to cool.
On bigger things I sometimes put the 70C solder on so it leaves tiny peaks, these melt and the W/M part settles into place -again very visual.
Obviously best to practice on scrap bits - I have found the method very controllable.
atb
Simon
Richard, my method is as follows.
tin brass with ordinary solder, ideally a layer one atom thick. A little more is probably ok
tin W/M item with 70 deg solder, ideally a few microns thick
apply flux to brass
locate W/M item and secure with scalpel tip or whatever - if you can arrange gravity to help, so much the better.
Apply RSU to brass, close to item being soldered - say 5-10mm away. Either side, doesn't matter.
Press on toe-switch and watch the edge of the W/M part - you'll see the 70C solder melt and the part will settle.
Remove toe from switch and wait for it to cool.
On bigger things I sometimes put the 70C solder on so it leaves tiny peaks, these melt and the W/M part settles into place -again very visual.
Obviously best to practice on scrap bits - I have found the method very controllable.
atb
Simon