spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Unriveted.
Riveting.
And riveted!
Not perfect, but a lot better than it was.
Mike
Riveting.
And riveted!
Not perfect, but a lot better than it was.
Mike
Rebuilt Crosti 9f
- Thread starter spikey faz
- Start date
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Tender sides riveted.
I used the etched dimples as a guide, but relied on the rivet press for getting the rows of rivets as straight as possible.
Mike
I used the etched dimples as a guide, but relied on the rivet press for getting the rows of rivets as straight as possible.
Mike
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
The result looks very neat and tidy, how have you got the rivet spacing consistent?
regards, Graham
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Thanks Graham.
The rivet press has indexed slides for both directions. Once the piece is clamped in place I just wind it in or out and do the riveting. This gives me a straight line of rivets.
I've since managed to form both tender sides. Pic below shows parts just propped in place until I get the courage to start soldering it all together.
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Tender now soldered together. It's not pretty inside, but it's strong!
There's been quite a bit of cutting and filing to get everything fitting properly.
Mike
There's been quite a bit of cutting and filing to get everything fitting properly.
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
To get the tender body to sit properly on the running plate meant the two alignment slots in the pics below are redundant. I was a bit concerned that this meant the overall length of the tender was too long, but after checking it appears correct.
Alignment elsewhere seems OK, so not sure what that is all about.
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Progress so far...
Mike
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
These bits to be fitted.
However, there's a gap.
Move the tender body forward on the running plate and the gap goes at the front, but the overhang at the rear consequently disappears. Did someone get their measurements a bit out?
Mike
However, there's a gap.
Move the tender body forward on the running plate and the gap goes at the front, but the overhang at the rear consequently disappears. Did someone get their measurements a bit out?
Mike
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Mike
The bit to be fitted on the right should cover the gap at the front, I hope.
Richard
The bit to be fitted on the right should cover the gap at the front, I hope.
Richard
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Today I managed to get the internal support ribs in place on the tender. I say 'managed' as it was a bit of an ordeal with some of the parts not lining up where they should do. There's a tremendous amount of heat soak now on the tender body which doesn't aid soldering. Anyway...
The beading (which is just about visible in the above pictures) was quite straightforward. Which was a relief!
When it comes to joining the tender body to the footplate I might just rely on bolting the two parts together. They're supposed to be soldered together, but the abovementioned heat soak might make this tricky. It also avoids cleaning up my inevitably dodgy soldering!
Mike
The beading (which is just about visible in the above pictures) was quite straightforward. Which was a relief!
When it comes to joining the tender body to the footplate I might just rely on bolting the two parts together. They're supposed to be soldered together, but the abovementioned heat soak might make this tricky. It also avoids cleaning up my inevitably dodgy soldering!
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Some more parts added. The water filler and water dome will be bolted into place as I'm really a nuts 'n bolts sort of person!
Mike
Mike
Can I ask what the particular make of rivet press you are using?Thanks Graham.
The rivet press has indexed slides for both directions. Once the piece is clamped in place I just wind it in or out and do the riveting. This gives me a straight line of rivets.
View attachment 160547
I've since managed to form both tender sides. Pic below shows parts just propped in place until I get the courage to start soldering it all together.
View attachment 160548
Mike
It certainly looks like it does the job.
Peter
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Hi Peter
It's the G Watts rivet press. I dont have the box/contact details to hand, but George advertises regularly on the Model Railway Journal.
Hope this helps.
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
There's a couple of cross-members that need to be added to the tender chassis. Problem is that once they've in place it's no longer possible to unbolt the chassis from the running plate. Not ideal from a maintenance point of view. The cross-members are quite noticeable so I don't want to omit them. So I've soldered in some little brackets. These will allow the cross-members to sit on them aided with a small dab of glue or even blu-tak. This should allow easy removal should the occasion arise.
Mike
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
High tech ladder construction jig (offcut of skirting board). Note use of specialist blue engineering adhesive (BluTak).
I'll solder the ladder in place later, but here it is propped in place.
Bottom rung will need realigning. Not difficult as the holes in the ladder are significantly bigger than the rungs diameter.
Mike
I'll solder the ladder in place later, but here it is propped in place.
Bottom rung will need realigning. Not difficult as the holes in the ladder are significantly bigger than the rungs diameter.
Mike
Len Cattley
Western Thunderer
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
As I previously mentioned I wasn't keen on soldering the tender body to the footplate. I have instead installed a couple of captive nuts to enable the two parts to be bolted together. You can't see the nuts but they are soldered onto the other side of the two addition mounting plates I've added to the inside of the tender body. Two similar plates are added to the running plate.
Mike
Mike