Rebuilt Crosti 9f

[Dave Holt]

I would call it a sliding wear plate

Ken

I'd go along with that except it neither slides nor wears.
Its purpose is to transfer weight into the truck and keep the truck slide casting central to the loco chassis by means of a substantial central pin. Thus, the only movement between truck and the item in question is a very slight twisting action as the truck moves sideways. From the drawing, it looks like there's a bearing plate between the two parts. The sideways movement and damping is entirely within the truck, controlled by springs or swing links and spring loaded dampers. The central casting can be seen in this photo of a swing link truck.

My models (except the 9F) have a simplified arrangement where the truck frame does slide across the fixed structure, but I doubt any significant wear will take place. The 9F exactly replicates the prototype arrangement apart from the friction dampers.
Dave.

 

[chigley]

I see what you mean Dave, now having seen it out in the open

Ken

 

[Dave Holt]

Cheers, Ken.
I should point out a mistake in my explanation of the arrangements. The central pin I mentioned actually plays no part in centralising the truck centre casting - that is done by the engagement of the bottom end of the pintle with the large, circular recess in the top of the centre casting - it merely keeps the two parts together in the event of the load being lost (such as during lifting of the loco or a derailment, perhaps). In normal operation the pin carries no loads whatsoever.
Anyway, we'd better hand back to Mike, who simply wanted to know what the item looked like so it can be represented on his model rather than a treatise on how it all functioned.
Dave.

 

[spikey faz]

I bought these a while back and today I thought I'd fit them. However I have a feeling there was a 12 pipe lubricator on one side and 16 pipe on the other. Any ideas?


Not enjoying this project at all to be honest. Which is why I came away from it for a bit. Maybe fitting a few parts will rekindle my enthusiasm. I'm loathe to sell it as an unfinished project as I'll never recoup my costs, but I seem to be constantly coming up against problems in building this and sourcing parts.

Mike

 

[spikey faz]

But on a brighter note I did unearth the motor/gearbox.

Mike

 

[34091 Weymouth]

Very nice build of a tricky kit. I built a caprotti standard 5 some years ago which I think has the same origins of this kit. It went together but not the friendliest of kits. Those mok wheels are lovely too.

 

[spikey faz]

Very nice build of a tricky kit. I built a caprotti standard 5 some years ago which I think has the same origins of this kit. It went together but not the friendliest of kits. Those mok wheels are lovely too.

Thank you. That is quite heartening for me. Gives me a bit more incentive.

Mike

 

[chigley]

Hello Mike, yes a 16 on the rhs & 12 on lhs, the lh one also has 2 out the front , they are on e-bay resin
castings by Flloyd Kraemer

 

[spikey faz]

Hello Mike, yes a 16 on the rhs & 12 on lhs, the lh one also has 2 out the front , they are on e-bay resin
castings by Flloyd Kraemer

I think that's where I got the ones pictured above. I shall order a 16 pipe one.

Thanks for the clarification.
Mike

 

[spikey faz]

After a lot of filing I've managed to get the steampipes to fit. I have had to compromise on some of the dimensions to get everything to fit. Ho hum.





Mike

 

[spikey faz]

It's a rainy day, so a good reason to stay indoors and work on the Crosti.

The ladder seemed a bit too high and the method of attaching it to the tender seemed a bit tricky. So I drilled a couple of slots in the top of the tender to allow a more secure way of locating the ladder and at the same time a small reduction in height.




I've also modded the filler cap.

Temporarily in place.

Mike

 

[spikey faz]

I'm not overly convinced about the look of the loco/tender coupling, but it is simple and it works! May leave alone rather than over complicate matters.



Mike

 

[spikey faz]

I'm assuming these are some sort of filters/sediment traps?

As you can see I've drilled into them and inserted some small bits of thread. The idea being that it's easier to attach them to the underside of the tender by bolting them into place.


It works!
A bit of tweaking to align them, followed by some solder.

They're not going anywhere now.

Mike

 

[spikey faz]

The axleboxes supplied in the kit aren't too bad (top of photo below), but I had already ordered replacements from Ragstone (bottom of photo below)so that's what I fitted.



Mike

 

[spikey faz]

As the kit doesn't include oil-feeds for the tender, I thought I'd have a go at making some.




I ran out of time this evening to finish them off, so next pic just shows one roughly in position.



Not exactly state-of-the-art, and I suspect the 3D printing peeps could do it much better, but I'm happy with it.

Mike

 

[Dog Star]

As the kit doesn't include oil-feeds for the tender, I thought I'd have a go at making some.

Looking at what you have produced I suggest that the "oil feeds" are grease points.

 

[spikey faz]

The tender fall-plate was missing from the kit, so I eventually got round to making one from scratch. Only, I think I've not made it wide enough. Duh!



Just as well I've made it removable.


Mike

 

[Richard Gawler]

I do admire the loco/tender coupling on this model. It seems so simple, and it lets you put the loco on the track and then add the tender. And not have to carry the two around together as a semi-permanent assembly.

 

[simond]

Horses for courses. I tend to build mine as a semi permanent assembly as I usually fit tender pickups.

Arguably, with the advent of KA capacitors, that’s much less necessary.

 

[spikey faz]

Horses for courses. I tend to build mine as a semi permanent assembly as I usually fit tender pickups.

Arguably, with the advent of KA capacitors, that’s much less necessary.

I've been thinking about putting plunger pickups on the loco chassis, but have heard some negative reports.

I suppose I could just go for the usual wire pickups, but might be a bit more visible? Alternatively maybe just wire pickups on the tender, which would be simpler in theory, but not sure how reliable.

I'd welcome views on this.

Mije