PMV races

[Steve Cook]

Added the spec plates and lamp irons to the ends after folding round the edges to create the angle iron.



The spec plates were done with an RSU, it was the first time I've used one and for that job, with a bit of 179 solder cream, it couldn't have been any easier The detailing work on the sides doesn't seem quite so daunting now.

Guess its time to stick main beam on and crack on with the sides

Steve

 

[Simon]

I have just been tinkering with the vertical on the diagonal strapping and can see that on mine at least it "misses" the face of the vertical "angle" on the end, which it ought not to.

I think the turned down sections of floor that reinforces the buffer plank may be stopping the end from fully "sitting down" on to the side and causing or exacerbating the above problem. I may therefore cut them off, a bit more investigation and shed time before basement book counting, is that a V8 I hear coming up behind me?

Simon

 

[Steve Cook]

I'll let you sort that one out then Simon, I'm going to have a bash at the doors.
We can swap notes later
Hope the book counts goes OK, you'll forgive me if I keep going...?
Steve

 

[jamiepage]

Steph,
Sorry, I meant specifically, the underframe. I have the diagram which shows the general layout and Adam's photos (above) have been very useful to help visualise what's going on, but I would like to clarify the various sections used especially where their ends show along the sides, and also such details as the attachment points for suspension springing. Do drawings/ official photographs of the underframe exist?
Thank you
Jamie

 

[Simon]

Schwine!

I've started messing up bodyside ventilators too, the good news is that I can at least successfully sweat the backing plates on to the body with my soldering iron. Getting the ventilator hood really neat is trickier though.



Right, I've got to go back to the real world - Charlie is going to help me count books in the basement

Simon

 

[Steve Cook]

See what you mean about the diagonal ironwork, bit of a gap at the bottom there. Its a bit deep in section too really, looking at some of the photos, I think the diagonal is about half the depth of the other verticals.
Its coming on good though, I need to hope I have a good afternoon at the bench now...

...Charlie is going to help me count books in the basement

What manner of bribery have you applied to get that result He's a good lad is Charlie
Steve

PS - Thats Mr Schwine to you matey, Mr fast starter

 

[Steve Cook]

Not quite sure I've fully taken onboard the 'race' aspect of this build I've spent most of the day working out how to modify the door assemblies and making handles.



The door on the right is folded up as per the kit. What it misses to my eye is that the angle iron should sit behind the front face of the doors rather than be level with them. I removed both sides by scoring with the Olfa cutter until I could just flex the brass and break it along the score line. Both cut edges were cleaned up, then some spare strip was solder back into the doors, but flush with the new edge. The removed piece had the top angle reduced slightly, then this was soldered to the new edge giving the detail I wanted as per the doors on the left above. Its the same detail I added onto my GBL so I couldn't leave it off this one The door catch is on the wrong way round - I think it should 'point' to the right, but there is a big hole under there to help with soldering so I've stuck it on as is. The hole in the left hand door has been sleeved down to 0.9mm to take the new T handles.



Handle wise, top left are what I think are the main locking handles, made from 30thou wire soldered into a slot cut in some 3/32" wire. I just cut a deep slot in the 3/32" wire, put the 30thou wire in, clamped the top of the cut together then soldered it all up. It was all then trimmed to size and filed up. The 3/32" section is long so it protrudes through the door where it can be epoxied into position.

The same technique was used to make the 'pull' handles on the right, except the wire was formed into a U shape, annealed, then bent at 90 degrees. The T handles are 0.9mm nickel silver wire, soldered together then filed to size. With it all mocked up into the first pair of doors



I have to say I'm enjoying the RSU for adding the detailing bits, its become a pleasure and results in next to no cleaning up which is even better
Suppose I better cut out all the parts for the next three door pairs then...
Steve

 

[Simon]

I agree about the doors' lack of a shut line between the stanchion and representation of the doors, not sure if I'll adopt your solution though.

Well I managed a bit in the shed earlier today and this evening up until a few minutes ago, bodging along the sides. Yours will be neater and more precise but will it all notice under a coat of paint and weathering? Most probably

Here's the side I've been down.



Simon

 

[Steve Cook]

I agree about the doors' lack of a shut line between the stanchion and representation of the doors, not sure if I'll adopt your solution though.

You might just be able to squeeze in an extra bit of strip between the door and window frame, meaning you could just trim the bottom off the existing upright and stick a new one on the side. When I mocked that up in the flat, I choose my method because either way you have to make more strip and I got what I wanted whilst preserving the original method of location (and leaving a bit of 'fiddle room').
Its interesting, two kits, two people, two approaches, two solutions - they'll both look good standing next to each other in the sunshine

Well I managed a bit in the shed earlier today and this evening up until a few minutes ago, bodging along the sides. Yours will be neater and more precise but will it all notice under a coat of paint and weathering? Most probably

From 20' across the garden in a mixed rake, probably not

Here's the side I've been down.

Excellent - yours looks like a PMV, mine looks like its been through the scrap yard
Steve

 

[Simon]

Just a note for when you get to the ventilators on the side, the slightly offset position on the LH of the centre pair is correct to prototype. I was getting all depressed about it last night but having looked at Paul Bartlett's side on picture of the van in green at Kings Cross I now feel much better

The diagonal strapping at the ends isn't right though, I think that the CCT version of the van had a similar arrangement with the ends not connected to vertical strapping and possibly plywood versions of the PMV too, and as you say the height is too great too.

I'm unsure how I'll proceed with it, I may resort to styrene bodgery but will have to wait until I have finished all of the "hot" operations. Likewise with the doors, I will be very tempted to make up my own in Plastikard sitting in between brass stanchions cut off the doors.

On another point, presumably the T and L stanchions are returned to the sole bars at their bottom ends for strength? Looking at the etches I think the kit may allow for this.

Lots of food for thought!

Simon

 

[Steve Cook]

Thanks for the ventilator notes Simon, that'll save me getting slightly depressed about it too
Having looked at the diagonal strapping some more and drawn some pencil lines where I think it should go (including overlapping the vertical stanchion at the top), I'm going to have a go at filling in the location holes and go 'freehand'.

The T and L stanchions are definitely connected to the solebars, you can see the edges highlighted by the sun on p33 of the Gould book.
Don't forget to drill holes for the handrails on the ends too...

Plenty to go at as you say Back on with the doors today - stopped early last night after stabbing myself with a needle file, just about to break the soldering iron out...

Steve

 

[Steve Cook]

Not a hugely productive afternoon, but I have cleaned up and soldered all of the parts for the other three doors.



Going to give my fingers a break for a bit now, forgotten how much extra work they have to do when building in brass.
Steve

 

[jamiepage]

the plastic job has come to a halt for today. The shell is finished, and an interpretation of what I think was going on around the roof edges has been put on over length. It needs to properly harden off then sanded down to make it less intrusive, then the vertical framing can be put on.
Door panels are ready.

 

[Steph Dale]

Steph,
Any chance you could a) finish the artwork? b) flash it up to 1/32? c) sell me one? Alternatively, could I ask you to point me in the direction of drawings and/or good photos so I can scratchbuild ? I really would be most grateful for a steer.
Thank you
Jamie

a) Yes, although I'll need to find the file, see where I got to and I'll need some time to finish it!
b) In principle not a problem
c) See 'b)'...

Steph,
Sorry, I meant specifically, the underframe. I have the diagram which shows the general layout and Adam's photos (above) have been very useful to help visualise what's going on, but I would like to clarify the various sections used especially where their ends show along the sides, and also such details as the attachment points for suspension springing. Do drawings/ official photographs of the underframe exist?
Thank you
Jamie

The intention was to do the body in either resin or brass; I tend to design stuff so that major assemblies are on different frets anyway. I used the references you have, or have been referred to, plus an old Railway Magazine of the era; I'll have to see if I can find it. Yes, official photographs and diagrams exist...

Steph

 

[jamiepage]

Representation of basic framing is now complete but has not turned out as convincingly as I would have liked. A good rubdown tomorrow, after it has properly hardened, to take the edge off the detail may bring it nearer to the rather subtle appearance of the prototype. Hopefully.

 

[queensquare]

Representation of basic framing is now complete but has not turned out as convincingly as I would have liked. A good rubdown tomorrow, after it has properly hardened, to take the edge off the detail may bring it nearer to the rather subtle appearance of the prototype. Hopefully.
View attachment 39928

It may well be a little crisp but that's beautifully neat work with the plasticard, very impressed.

Jerry

 

[jamiepage]

Thank you.
Just noticed I forgot the horizontal bits above/ below the centre windows, so they are on now to dry overnight. Rubbing down tomorrow will with luck bring the framing back down to something less intrusive.
Jamie

 

[jamiepage]

The floor has been embellished with basic detailing, and is shown here without and within its location.
The underframe will be built up in brass as a further sub structure, and may or may not be permanently joined to the floor. Not sure what to do just yet, it will be dependant on just how the underfame takes shape.
Either way, the floor/ body joint shown in the photos will remain to allow future access to the interior.

 

[Steve Cook]

Very clever Jamie, I'd not have thought of putting the split there
Its looking very good indeed, I'm trying to get to the end of my CVLR coach today so I can get back on with the PMV - I'm getting worried as to what Simon is going to post up next having seen yours...
Steve

 

[D816Foxhound]

Simon, Steve,

Two photos for you to show the undersides of the PMV. The undersides gave me the most grief and what you see is only a very
loose interpretation of what is actually there. Plenty of scope for bodging, pulling hair out and throwing toys out of prams!!
Have fun.



I like Steve's door "furniture". I cheated and used Tenmille coach handles. The buffer assemblies, steam pies, vacuum bags and couplings are from Ken Martin.

Roger