adrian

Flying Squad
Thought I needed a spell in purgatory after this morning, so I have been concocting brake linkages around the wheels as best I can from photographs of the real thing.
Some nice details there such that I'm reluctant to comment - I'm hoping that it's just an absence of springs on the axlebox because it seems to me that the chassis is resting on that wheel flange.
 

Simon

Flying Squad
Not as bad as it looks as I have ground slots out of the Peter Korzelius steel W iron for clearance, and also intend to take the flanges down a bit, but you are quite right, it is all very tight...

Simon
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
Hi Simon, nice to see that you're making progress. Regarding the brakegear, I wonder whether this may help?

PMV_003.gif

The drawing comes from the instructions for the Masokits sprung underframe (4mm). I'm not quite convinced that all the angles are correct, but the layout seems to be. I happen to have my own PMV on the go at the minute, a rescue job of a part-complete, part-painted Parkside kit which came apart readily enough and had all the bits. Yes, the vee hangers on the ends are the wrong shape on the drawing - as you can see, below, there's a correction etch supplied and now fitted.

PMV_001.gif

I rather like the Masokits bits: they go together well, do what is required and are admirably robust (even if the shape of the brakeshoes is a bit rough: it doesn't matter, they'll be well hidden by the steps!). You should be able to see the bits the original builder left off and the damage I've caused getting the solebar mouldings off. This will be repaired.

PMV_002.gif

The end view does show up the rather naff springs: I may have to do something about this...

Adam
 

Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
View attachment 53713

The end view does show up the rather naff springs: I may have to do something about this...

Adam


The leaf springs on Parkside kits have always been a bit naff. I seem to recall from my 4mm days that ABS/Fourmost Models did a very nice spring/axlebox/axleguard casting in whitemetal for the PMV/CCT, though with the sprung etched axleguards already in place, fitting them might prove tricky!


Regards

Dan


 
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Simon

Flying Squad
Nice to see someone else suffering at the hands of a PMV!

Thanks for the drawing Adam, it is helpful although I can see that it doesn't interpret the pivot points above the axle correctly (very minor) but on the other hand shows two different arrangements at either end whereas mine has the same at each, ie with all pull rods for brake yokes running above the axle.

I've just checked and my arrangement "works" geometrically, except that I've just realised that I have got the links the wrong way around above the axle such that pulling from the vac actuated rod takes the brake "off".

Which was perfectly clear from my photograph.

Grrr, I may yet change it, what a wally:rolleyes:

Off to da bookshop now...
 
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AJC

Western Thunderer
The leaf springs on Parkside kits have always been a bit naff. I seem to recall from my 4mm days that ABS/Fourmost Models did a very nice spring/axlebox/axleguard casting in whitemetal for the PMV/CCT, though with the sprung etched axleguards already in place, fitting them might prove tricky!

Some of the more recent Parkside kits are a lot better - the Palvan, for instance. I know the castings you mean Dan - and I'm fairly certain dad has a couple of sets - but I believe that these came from the MOPOK BR CCT so they're not quite right for this and would require a lot of filing. What I will do is to add some overlays from plastic sheet for the springs, and replace the hangers wholesale.

Nice to see someone else suffering at the hands of a PMV!

Thanks for the drawing Adam, it is helpful although I can see that it doesn't interpret the pivot points above the axle correctly (very minor) but on the other hand shows two different arrangements at either end whereas mine has the same at each, ie with all pull rods for brake yokes running above the axle.

I'm not at all sure that Mike Clark has got it right at all, especially at the ends but in the gloom, sandwiched between a loco and a passenger rake in 4mm, on this occasion, I'm happy to let it be. I've made some minor modifications to allow me to drop the axles in which will make painting very much easier. Next is trial by safety loop, assuming I have enough wire.

Adam
 

Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
I know the castings you mean Dan - and I'm fairly certain dad has a couple of sets - but I believe that these came from the MOPOK BR CCT so they're not quite right for this and would require a lot of filing.

Doh! You're quite right Adam - they were for the BR CCT. I remember trying to improve the Lima CCT underframe many moons ago with some. However, if you ever decide to defect to 7mm scale, they are definitely available from ABS, in fact, I have some on the bench as I type this....

IMG_20160330_121033581.jpg



Regards

Dan
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
Dan - the chances are slim, but if the day comes when I lose all interest in rolling stock and decide I want to build locos... :p

Adam
 
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Simon

Flying Squad
I sorted out the "reverse linkages" here's a corrected one, it looks less geometrically tortured than the first attempt.

Brake1.jpg

I also ground out more of the W iron with a burr and the existing wheels now go round without fouling anything.

Feeling slightly more motivated, I set about concocting some of the central brake gear, the two V hangers are from the kit, as is the central truss, although I reversed it and added some strip to make it a "T" section as per prototype.

brake2.jpg

Here's a view from the side:

brake3.jpg

And a more general view:

brake4.jpg

Maybe some more tomorrow evening....
 

Simon

Flying Squad
A bit more progress: Although I had knowingly subverted the vac cylinder operating to LMR practice, I'd got the operating lever on the cross shaft the wrong way around and forgotten that it is a two piece fabrication, so I made and fitted a better one, pictured above/below the vac cylinder in the pics, just needs a "T" ended plunger fabricating and fitting now. I have also filled in the holes in the floor with black Plastikard epoxied in position.

I've got a feeling that the operating lever is too close to the cylinder, being in the "brakes fully on" position.

Abrak2.jpg

I also managed to codge together the operating shafts and associated V hanger assemblies at either end of the chassis, not very pretty but the worst bits will be invisible once the vehicle on its wheels.

Abrak1.jpg

I need to re-do the pull rod assembly pictured below so that the tail of the operating rod is a bit further away from the axle, this will mean that with a bit of jiggery pokery the wheels will be removeable.

Abrak3.jpg

Cutting out operating levers and guides next.
 

D816Foxhound

Western Thunderer
Your underside detail looks very nice Simon.

I totally lost interest with this part of the build on my PMV, good on you for going more than the extra mile in your build.

This kit is definitely torture to put together, but does look nice when finished, thank heavens!!

Roger
 

Simon

Flying Squad
Thanks Roger, for some reason I find concocting brake gear moderately therapeutic, using stocks of odd sections and bits and pieces from the scrap bin.

And anyway, there's still lots left to do with the body, unfortunately...

However, after cutting the grass and a major session of weeding and tidying along the line today, I got back down to the shed while Johnny Walker was still on and have pretty much finished the underframe off, bar making and fitting brake levers and guides.

Safetied 005.jpg

I'm not putting the third safety loops in (which go in between the inner brake yoke and axle) as they are pretty much hidden from view and would also prevent me getting the wheels out, which I can now by flexing the main pull rods a bit so they will pull out of the suitably drilled end operating rods.

Safetied 003.jpg Safetied 004.jpg

I'm quite pleased with all this as it pretty much replicates what is there on the prototype. I may even put in the safety chains (two per yoke) if I've got something suitable chain-wise in my scrapbox.

I also want to put in the vacuum and steam pipes, for which I have got some suitably thick copper rod, salvaged from some scrapped LV lighting tracks.

I'm feeling pretty motivated, let's hope I can keep it going this time....

Simon
 

Simon

Flying Squad
Back to the bodywork, all door hinges now done bar the fixings, lamp irons on, end spec plates on, quick shot outside this morning:

hinged1.jpg

Just back from shed, corner handrails all fitted, all window bars soldered in place using odd bits and sections of brass from stock, sitting upside down to let water drain out of body after washing flux off.

hinged2.jpg

I contacted Ken Martin earlier today and have ordered his brass buffers and vacuum and steam pipes.

I have also been test running, albeit without any springing yet, and had to move one spring moulding up to get the chassis to sit square on the rails.

Simon
 

Simon

Flying Squad
This would all move along much more quickly if I got things right first time...

The eagle eyed PMV spotters amongst you will have noticed I'd got the window bar widths wrong, the central one is the thinnest:rolleyes:

More cheerfully Ken Martin sent out my order incredibly swiftly and I now have four brass buffers made up, one is blu tacked in to position in this snap, which also features new thinner middle window bars-I knew that code 40 rail would come in useful one day....

rebar1.jpg

And I have also corrected my perverse vacuum cylinder operating rod arrangement to something better matching the arrangement on these vans.

rebar2.jpg

I wonder what I'll get wrong next:confused:

Simon
 

Simon

Flying Squad
Bit more progress, all the vac and steam pipe hoses built up but not fitted, ditto screw couplings. Two internal strengthening struts soldered across the body sides to make the whole thing more rigid, buffers fitted. Roof now has a layer of suitably striated pieces of styrene sheet epoxied across it, this last a prelude to improving the end overhang before old shirt stretching and making up the end roof joint detail in styrene sheet.

roofed1.jpg

It's a long job but it's beginning to look the part I think.
 

Simon

Flying Squad
Thanks Heather, I hope so...

There's quite a list of things left to do, but last night I gave the roof the "hair shirt" treatment and at lunchtime today I nipped home in between shop IT disasters and gave the whole thing a waft or two of Upol one pack etch primer, which gives a very clean finish, even in my hands.

etched2.jpg etched1.jpg

My reasoning is that this means I can now glaze the windows and stick the roof on before carrying on with the detailing.

It's nice to lose the messily soldered brass finish:p

Simon
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Very nicely done Simon, it has come together very well with a coat of primer.
Have no fear, I am not currently chasing you for a second place finish :)
Steve
 

Simon

Flying Squad
Thanks Steve. We ought to be careful though, Jamie might just sneak back in and build another, and then we'd be vying for third place - how frightfully British!

I hesitate to mention this, but I do think we both ought to both get these things finished before the year is out.

We can then start working on the models we really wanted to build, ie vans B and C with resin cast ends and resin cast door units......

That'd be a cool two years after our Christmas cafe conversation and at the current rates of progress I might then just finish one or other before I entered my sixth decade:confused:

I'm going to watch "Plebs" at 10.00 tonight but might try a bit of glazing too, I'm feeling moderately motivated:thumbs:

Simon
 
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