Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
Alclad, ah yes, but who is he?
I know, it's getting late!
Pete.
I know, it's getting late!
Pete.
7mm On Heather's Workbench - another other Twin
- Thread starter Heather Kay
- Start date
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Good replies all. Thanks everyone! 
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Getting there. Quite a lot of detailing to go on yet, but I'll stop for now. I don't know how much extra surgery might be needed for the motor bogie, so I think this is a good place to pause efforts and pack the beastie into a box.
I think there's enough going on in the engine compartment to make it look about right.
Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
Heather, how many times did you nearly pass out while holding your breath painting that stripe?! Looks like it was worth it, so we needn't have worried on your behalf after all!
Anyone who can get Humbrol aluminium to work properly deserves a standing ovation!!!
Pete.
Anyone who can get Humbrol aluminium to work properly deserves a standing ovation!!!
Pete.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Ha! It's nowhere near perfect, but for now it is adequate. 10001 is safely packed in a box and will be at Telford for people to really see how rough my paintwork is!
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
Nowt wrong with Phoenix precision aluminium. Goes on a treat and looks like metal when dry
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I think there will be some significant credit card exercise in the direction of Phoenix. I need some new supplies.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
This week shall be about moving this build to a conclusion.
I collected a pair of ABC Gears motor bogies at Telford. Here's one of them.
Now, these beasties are not cheap, but you can see why.
I don't want to find fault - and its damned hard to find anything, to be honest - so the only issue I've encountered is the rearmost mounting bracket (the upper step in this view) is ever so slightly further forward than the holes in the resin bogie frame.
The leading axle runs in a rocking truck, and has ball races. The rear axle is fixed, but also runs in ball races. Best Beloved had a long chat with Brian Clapperton at the show, and it transpired the gears are sourced from Muffett Gears, just over there in Tunbridge Wells. Best Beloved has always been a Muffett fan, and many of our 7mm locos had gearboxes that used their gears. Brian used to cut his own gears, but decided it wasn't worth all the effort when you can get the best off the shelf. The centre axle runs in an oval slot, so it has some vertical movement.
It took a bit of work to get the assembled bogie frame to fit neatly. It's a good fit, and needed some filing away of the resin end stretchers just to let it settle down neatly. The mounting points were drilled, presumably as pilot holes to allow for drilling out for the kit 8BA fixings. I thought it might be nicer to run a 10BA tap down so suitable bolts screw straight into the chassis. The misalignment of the rear mounting point could be adjusted by unsoldering and shifting the plates, but I don't want to risk breaking anything. I shall fill the hole in the resin and move it accordingly. I haven't checked the other bogie, yet, but if I find it's the same I'll feed back to ABC.
The pivot plate is recessed on the underside, and can be removed from the frames by unscrewing two tiny steel screws. I need some M4 bolts, as the kit ones were very permanently fitted to the original pivots, so fitting the motor bogie to the chassis will have to wait a while.
The transverse leaf spring castings, brackets and centre axle brake shoes are salvaged from the old bogie. I'll work out how they can be attached to the new bogie frame in due course.
So, I'm a fan and a convert. I now specify ABC Gears gubbins for all commissions.
I collected a pair of ABC Gears motor bogies at Telford. Here's one of them.
Now, these beasties are not cheap, but you can see why.
I don't want to find fault - and its damned hard to find anything, to be honest - so the only issue I've encountered is the rearmost mounting bracket (the upper step in this view) is ever so slightly further forward than the holes in the resin bogie frame.
The leading axle runs in a rocking truck, and has ball races. The rear axle is fixed, but also runs in ball races. Best Beloved had a long chat with Brian Clapperton at the show, and it transpired the gears are sourced from Muffett Gears, just over there in Tunbridge Wells. Best Beloved has always been a Muffett fan, and many of our 7mm locos had gearboxes that used their gears. Brian used to cut his own gears, but decided it wasn't worth all the effort when you can get the best off the shelf. The centre axle runs in an oval slot, so it has some vertical movement.
It took a bit of work to get the assembled bogie frame to fit neatly. It's a good fit, and needed some filing away of the resin end stretchers just to let it settle down neatly. The mounting points were drilled, presumably as pilot holes to allow for drilling out for the kit 8BA fixings. I thought it might be nicer to run a 10BA tap down so suitable bolts screw straight into the chassis. The misalignment of the rear mounting point could be adjusted by unsoldering and shifting the plates, but I don't want to risk breaking anything. I shall fill the hole in the resin and move it accordingly. I haven't checked the other bogie, yet, but if I find it's the same I'll feed back to ABC.
The pivot plate is recessed on the underside, and can be removed from the frames by unscrewing two tiny steel screws. I need some M4 bolts, as the kit ones were very permanently fitted to the original pivots, so fitting the motor bogie to the chassis will have to wait a while.
The transverse leaf spring castings, brackets and centre axle brake shoes are salvaged from the old bogie. I'll work out how they can be attached to the new bogie frame in due course.
So, I'm a fan and a convert. I now specify ABC Gears gubbins for all commissions.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
As I said, this week is about moving this build to its conclusion - at least as far as I can pending odds and ends.
I wasn't happy with the original windscreen glazing, and when it has to be removed for the repainting session I left it all to one side while I pondered. I had asked Laurie for a spare glazing sheet, in case of serious bodgery, but I've managed to salvage and re-use most of the original material.
I figured the worst area was the front screens, so I concentrated on making them as flush as possible.
I'm happy with that. I left these overnight, having flooded the edges with dilute Kristal Klear, with a view to cleaning blobs and finger marks today.
So, how did I do the flush bit? The kit has recesses behind each aperture, into which a laser-cut panel fits. I held each panel in place with a finger, and carefully scratched round the aperture with…
… a pin vice and a sewing needle. I'll be frank and admit the needles I have rarely get used for their original purpose, as Best Beloved's growing collection of shirts sans buttons will testify! I'm not very domesticated.
With the aperture scribed on to the clear part, a pair of fine scissors was used to trim excess off, tending to the outside as you can always take more off. Final trimming was with a fine emery, and when I was happy with the overall fit I went round the edges with a black marker pen. Careful application of the Klear held the panel in place, most of the time.
Studying photos of the real thing, you notice a bright metal finger strip on the cab droplights. If I was to apply a length of thin styrene strip, why not go the whole hog and trim the glazing so it was open on a couple of windows? So I did. The remaining glazing was done in the orthodox manner, then carefully cleaned of fingerprints and dust.
Into the final stretch with bodywork details, then. Lamp brackets, fitted in the locations according to the Wild Swan pictorial supplement. Windscreen wipers at half-cock, as they appear in so many images. The other end are laying in the lower parked position. One bugbear I have of model diesels and electrics is when the wipers never touch the glazing, so I cursed and swore until I had achieved the best fit I can. I think I'll mix some Metalcote polished steel,with matt black and let down the buffer heads and shanks.
Which leaves the numbers and grab rails. I'm still thinking about the latter. They'll be flimsy, and I know the client warned me about them on his original 10000 he built. I shall consider whether to risk soldering fine wire to the rear, and whether to drill the body to take the wire as pegs. The numbers, well, I know where they go. It's just getting on with it!
I wasn't happy with the original windscreen glazing, and when it has to be removed for the repainting session I left it all to one side while I pondered. I had asked Laurie for a spare glazing sheet, in case of serious bodgery, but I've managed to salvage and re-use most of the original material.
I figured the worst area was the front screens, so I concentrated on making them as flush as possible.
I'm happy with that. I left these overnight, having flooded the edges with dilute Kristal Klear, with a view to cleaning blobs and finger marks today.
So, how did I do the flush bit? The kit has recesses behind each aperture, into which a laser-cut panel fits. I held each panel in place with a finger, and carefully scratched round the aperture with…
… a pin vice and a sewing needle. I'll be frank and admit the needles I have rarely get used for their original purpose, as Best Beloved's growing collection of shirts sans buttons will testify! I'm not very domesticated.
With the aperture scribed on to the clear part, a pair of fine scissors was used to trim excess off, tending to the outside as you can always take more off. Final trimming was with a fine emery, and when I was happy with the overall fit I went round the edges with a black marker pen. Careful application of the Klear held the panel in place, most of the time.
Studying photos of the real thing, you notice a bright metal finger strip on the cab droplights. If I was to apply a length of thin styrene strip, why not go the whole hog and trim the glazing so it was open on a couple of windows? So I did. The remaining glazing was done in the orthodox manner, then carefully cleaned of fingerprints and dust.
Into the final stretch with bodywork details, then. Lamp brackets, fitted in the locations according to the Wild Swan pictorial supplement. Windscreen wipers at half-cock, as they appear in so many images. The other end are laying in the lower parked position. One bugbear I have of model diesels and electrics is when the wipers never touch the glazing, so I cursed and swore until I had achieved the best fit I can. I think I'll mix some Metalcote polished steel,with matt black and let down the buffer heads and shanks.
Which leaves the numbers and grab rails. I'm still thinking about the latter. They'll be flimsy, and I know the client warned me about them on his original 10000 he built. I shall consider whether to risk soldering fine wire to the rear, and whether to drill the body to take the wire as pegs. The numbers, well, I know where they go. It's just getting on with it!
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Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I keep finding excuses not to fit the numbers!
Today I turned my attention to the scavenger fan. I've been putting it off for some time because, as many do these days, the client wanted it to work. The kit parts (fan and baseplate plug) are cast whitemetal, and the fan itself needed a lot of attention.
So, I set about the casting with files and emery to see if I could improve on the appearance, such as thinning the edges of the blades somewhat. I had already drilled it, more or less in the centre, for some brass rod, so I fitted it out and twiddled it to see if it had any sense of balance.
Well, it would work, but would probably rattle itself to bits before long. I decided a scratch build in something lighter would be preferable.
The original casting is on the left, my effort of laminations of thick styrene and thin brass sheet on the right.
Changing the fan meant altering the baseplate to match. I couldn't find any brass tube to fit into the cast hole well enough to plug it, so I decided on an alternative route. Using more of the thin brass, I cut out circles to fit on the top and bottom of the casting. I drilled them to fit brass tube that was nice fit for the brass rod on the fan, soldered the tube in place, sandwiching the casting between the circular plates. The lower plate has been low-melt soldered to the casting just to hold it centrally. It ended up quite well, and I've purposely left the tube and fan rod long until I know how long they need to be for the power system - whenever I decide on that.
The fan aperture in the roof has a neat assembly of etched stainless steel, built up using a provided jig. I forgot to photograph the construction, but the finished grille is a nice tight fit in the hole. It rests on a ledge, and just needs some drops of adhesive to hold it in place, then a rub over with a fine emery board to flatten it all down.
And here's the fan in place. The only question I have to answer now is what colour was the fan? I can't find any reference in the published works, so any clues would be very much appreciated. I know more modern locos generally have a red or yellow fan, but it could equally be silver or black for all I know.
Today I turned my attention to the scavenger fan. I've been putting it off for some time because, as many do these days, the client wanted it to work. The kit parts (fan and baseplate plug) are cast whitemetal, and the fan itself needed a lot of attention.
So, I set about the casting with files and emery to see if I could improve on the appearance, such as thinning the edges of the blades somewhat. I had already drilled it, more or less in the centre, for some brass rod, so I fitted it out and twiddled it to see if it had any sense of balance.
Well, it would work, but would probably rattle itself to bits before long. I decided a scratch build in something lighter would be preferable.
The original casting is on the left, my effort of laminations of thick styrene and thin brass sheet on the right.
Changing the fan meant altering the baseplate to match. I couldn't find any brass tube to fit into the cast hole well enough to plug it, so I decided on an alternative route. Using more of the thin brass, I cut out circles to fit on the top and bottom of the casting. I drilled them to fit brass tube that was nice fit for the brass rod on the fan, soldered the tube in place, sandwiching the casting between the circular plates. The lower plate has been low-melt soldered to the casting just to hold it centrally. It ended up quite well, and I've purposely left the tube and fan rod long until I know how long they need to be for the power system - whenever I decide on that.
The fan aperture in the roof has a neat assembly of etched stainless steel, built up using a provided jig. I forgot to photograph the construction, but the finished grille is a nice tight fit in the hole. It rests on a ledge, and just needs some drops of adhesive to hold it in place, then a rub over with a fine emery board to flatten it all down.
And here's the fan in place. The only question I have to answer now is what colour was the fan? I can't find any reference in the published works, so any clues would be very much appreciated. I know more modern locos generally have a red or yellow fan, but it could equally be silver or black for all I know.
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Cliff Williams
Western Thunderer
Thank you Heather, you are getting me back on the ball to get my twins done.
I did a DCC conversion of one with these bogies and have bitten the bullet and ordered the bogies. Quite a piece of work.
I did a DCC conversion of one with these bogies and have bitten the bullet and ordered the bogies. Quite a piece of work.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Rather belatedly, I dug out the client's model of 10000. He had given it to me to make some minor repairs, and to replace the motor bogie so the pair of locos were matched.
It's not a bad model. Obviously, I've added my extra magic to 10001, so there will be some obvious differences. Essentially, this model is straight from the box, and I won't do much to change anything. As I said, some damaged parts need replacing, and I'm currently looking at whether I can actually fit the 3D print 16SVT inside without life-threatening surgery.
Of more interest was putting 10000 on the scales. It maxes out at around 1.5kg, and there has been some extra weight stuck in where the "real" engine ought to be. 10001 needs about 500g to bring it up to par, and happily I can get about half that inside the cosmetic engine! The rest, I hope, will nestle in the resin floor space.
I find the electronics are also just rattling about in 10000's body shell, so that will need attention.
It's not a bad model. Obviously, I've added my extra magic to 10001, so there will be some obvious differences. Essentially, this model is straight from the box, and I won't do much to change anything. As I said, some damaged parts need replacing, and I'm currently looking at whether I can actually fit the 3D print 16SVT inside without life-threatening surgery.
Of more interest was putting 10000 on the scales. It maxes out at around 1.5kg, and there has been some extra weight stuck in where the "real" engine ought to be. 10001 needs about 500g to bring it up to par, and happily I can get about half that inside the cosmetic engine! The rest, I hope, will nestle in the resin floor space.
I find the electronics are also just rattling about in 10000's body shell, so that will need attention.
Cliff Williams
Western Thunderer
Heather who was the Gent going the 3D printed engines again please? I have lost track of who it was and it looks like they might be needed this winter.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Simon Thompson (@SimonT) of this parish. I'll have a chat with him before you make any definite orders, as the design needs some adjustment to fit in the JLTRT carcass.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I really need to kick my backside into touch. I've got so much work to do, but I don't seem to have any sense of urgency.
Anyway, have weighed things up, I set to with the lead today.
I needed to bring the basic model weight up to 1.5kg by essentially finding space for about half a kilo or so of ballast. I managed to cram 350g in the space inside the cosmetic engine, and the cavity in the loco battery boxes allowed me to make up a block of around 180g. Rather than glue the plates together, I raided Best Beloved's ham radio spares for some self-amalgamating tape. I'll fix it into the cavity with double-sided foam tape, I think, which will probably do for the engine as well.
Before that, though, I think I ought to make arrangements for the electronics.
Anyway, have weighed things up, I set to with the lead today.
I needed to bring the basic model weight up to 1.5kg by essentially finding space for about half a kilo or so of ballast. I managed to cram 350g in the space inside the cosmetic engine, and the cavity in the loco battery boxes allowed me to make up a block of around 180g. Rather than glue the plates together, I raided Best Beloved's ham radio spares for some self-amalgamating tape. I'll fix it into the cavity with double-sided foam tape, I think, which will probably do for the engine as well.
Before that, though, I think I ought to make arrangements for the electronics.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
10001 has reached a point where it can be handed off to the electronics department. With that in mind, I turned my attention to the loco's slightly older sibling. Both locos will need to be matched, so I wanted to get the odds and ends sorted out on 10000 with a view to handing both locos over in due course.
As you will recall, I agreed to take the client's build of 10000 so that a new power bogie could be installed to match the new build. At the same time, one or two cosmetic repairs were requested. First, though, time to see what was going on inside the beast.
Sheesh! Well, it's a bit of a mess. The original power bogie was a traditional vertical motor driving on the rear axle, with Delrin driving the leading axle. Sitting atop the motor, not in the picture because I removed it to get at the connections, was a flywheel.
The DCC board was originally glued to the chassis using superglue, which had inevitably aged and pinged off, leaving the board rattling about in the body.
Ballast was in the battery box well in the form of liquid lead, while sat on top was a styrene box, filled with the same. Happily, I managed to lever the box off the chassis, so the planned cosmetic 16SVT can be fitted in the orthodox manner (including added weight as for 10001). Plan B, if the ballast box wouldn't budge, was to consider slicing and dicing the diesel engine to fit around the box. I'm glad that didn't have to happen.
On top of the ballast box was a dicky-looking speaker, positioned so the sound would sort of emanate from the exhaust ports. Additionally, the scavenger fan had been powered by a tiny motor and miniature gearbox. I hoped to keep that, as it was a working solution.
In the view above, you can see I've marked where major surgery is required to the chassis to accommodate the ABC motor bogie.
After surgery, but before I'd found suitable bolts for the motor bogies. Thereby hangs an amusing tale…
I thought I could use the kit 4BA bolts to fit straight into the motor bogie mounting plates. The kit bolts are hex head, the recesses in the mounting plates circular. I purchased some 4BA cheesehead bolts from a well-known model railway tools and components Emporium, but neglected to check the length of bolts I'd purchased. Needless to say, they were too short. I decided I could take the kit bolts down to the Big Shed and skim the heads to circular on the lathe. While stashing the new bolts in my Nuts, Bolts And Washers Box, I discovered some 4BA cheesehead bolts of a more suitable length which I had forgotten I even had. So, no need to return the short ones and no need to get chilled in the Big Shed.
On with the motley!
With the motor bogies now capable of being actually attached to both locos, I turned to the cosmetic repairs on 10000.
A couple of bogie steps, cast brass items, had been knocked off over the years. I sourced replacements from JLTRT. One step, however, had also taken a chunk of the bogie moulding with it. I cleaned up the break, and fashioned a thin styrene sheet fillet. This was glued to a larger piece of styrene which overlapped the edges to allow for gluing in place.
Yes, you can see it's thicker from some angles, but it fills the hole up neatly. The step was glued to this, and the various repairs painted over in silver.
Oh, I forgot to mention the bogie frames need some sanding and filing to fit over the ABC bogie. It's not a major job, just a bit fiddly. The backs of the coil spring units need to be trimmed back, for example, and while I was at it I stuffed Milliput into the fixing holes. Once set, I fitted the frame over the bogie, marked it for the fixing holes and drilled them out in the right places for the 10BA screws to hold it all together.
Here's the repaired bogie framing, before the step was fitted and everything painted.
Time to see if the body fitted nicely over the chassis, with the cosmetic engine popped in for good measure. Oh dear. Something was causing a problem, preventing the radiator end from seating properly.
So, out came the neat little fan motor assembly. Sadly, it is long enough that it hits the power bogie motor, which is orientated horizontally. The original motor was vertical and wasn't a problem.
A new fan motor system need to be sourced for 10000, so I'll get a pair so I can fit one in 10001. Both locos are now at the point where electronification can be done. I'm chatting to my guru at the moment, and the plan is for him to actually wire things up properly while installing the electronics. I won't actually fit final details to my build until the thing has the control and sound systems installed.
As you will recall, I agreed to take the client's build of 10000 so that a new power bogie could be installed to match the new build. At the same time, one or two cosmetic repairs were requested. First, though, time to see what was going on inside the beast.
Sheesh! Well, it's a bit of a mess. The original power bogie was a traditional vertical motor driving on the rear axle, with Delrin driving the leading axle. Sitting atop the motor, not in the picture because I removed it to get at the connections, was a flywheel.
The DCC board was originally glued to the chassis using superglue, which had inevitably aged and pinged off, leaving the board rattling about in the body.
Ballast was in the battery box well in the form of liquid lead, while sat on top was a styrene box, filled with the same. Happily, I managed to lever the box off the chassis, so the planned cosmetic 16SVT can be fitted in the orthodox manner (including added weight as for 10001). Plan B, if the ballast box wouldn't budge, was to consider slicing and dicing the diesel engine to fit around the box. I'm glad that didn't have to happen.
On top of the ballast box was a dicky-looking speaker, positioned so the sound would sort of emanate from the exhaust ports. Additionally, the scavenger fan had been powered by a tiny motor and miniature gearbox. I hoped to keep that, as it was a working solution.
In the view above, you can see I've marked where major surgery is required to the chassis to accommodate the ABC motor bogie.
After surgery, but before I'd found suitable bolts for the motor bogies. Thereby hangs an amusing tale…
I thought I could use the kit 4BA bolts to fit straight into the motor bogie mounting plates. The kit bolts are hex head, the recesses in the mounting plates circular. I purchased some 4BA cheesehead bolts from a well-known model railway tools and components Emporium, but neglected to check the length of bolts I'd purchased. Needless to say, they were too short. I decided I could take the kit bolts down to the Big Shed and skim the heads to circular on the lathe. While stashing the new bolts in my Nuts, Bolts And Washers Box, I discovered some 4BA cheesehead bolts of a more suitable length which I had forgotten I even had. So, no need to return the short ones and no need to get chilled in the Big Shed.
On with the motley!
With the motor bogies now capable of being actually attached to both locos, I turned to the cosmetic repairs on 10000.
A couple of bogie steps, cast brass items, had been knocked off over the years. I sourced replacements from JLTRT. One step, however, had also taken a chunk of the bogie moulding with it. I cleaned up the break, and fashioned a thin styrene sheet fillet. This was glued to a larger piece of styrene which overlapped the edges to allow for gluing in place.
Yes, you can see it's thicker from some angles, but it fills the hole up neatly. The step was glued to this, and the various repairs painted over in silver.
Oh, I forgot to mention the bogie frames need some sanding and filing to fit over the ABC bogie. It's not a major job, just a bit fiddly. The backs of the coil spring units need to be trimmed back, for example, and while I was at it I stuffed Milliput into the fixing holes. Once set, I fitted the frame over the bogie, marked it for the fixing holes and drilled them out in the right places for the 10BA screws to hold it all together.
Here's the repaired bogie framing, before the step was fitted and everything painted.
Time to see if the body fitted nicely over the chassis, with the cosmetic engine popped in for good measure. Oh dear. Something was causing a problem, preventing the radiator end from seating properly.
So, out came the neat little fan motor assembly. Sadly, it is long enough that it hits the power bogie motor, which is orientated horizontally. The original motor was vertical and wasn't a problem.
A new fan motor system need to be sourced for 10000, so I'll get a pair so I can fit one in 10001. Both locos are now at the point where electronification can be done. I'm chatting to my guru at the moment, and the plan is for him to actually wire things up properly while installing the electronics. I won't actually fit final details to my build until the thing has the control and sound systems installed.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
This is turning into another "one of those weeks". Yesterday was a washout due to various domestic issues. I didn't do anything sensible at all over the weekend, so today is really the first time I've made any progress at all.
The first job today was filling the cosmetic engine with ballast to bring 10000 up to the required weight. 270g of lead was squeezed into the thing. Next, a cosmetic bulkhead between the "clean" and "dirty" sections of the engine compartment. You know, it always pays to study your prototype, and guess who didn't. Some remedial work required now, as I've gone and stuck the bulkhead in the wrong place - on both models! D'oh!
The first job today was filling the cosmetic engine with ballast to bring 10000 up to the required weight. 270g of lead was squeezed into the thing. Next, a cosmetic bulkhead between the "clean" and "dirty" sections of the engine compartment. You know, it always pays to study your prototype, and guess who didn't. Some remedial work required now, as I've gone and stuck the bulkhead in the wrong place - on both models! D'oh!
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Meanwhile…
The engine looks quite the part, what you can see of it through the windows.
And here is the repaired corner of the bogie. You can just make out the join. Quite pleased with that.
The engine looks quite the part, what you can see of it through the windows.
And here is the repaired corner of the bogie. You can just make out the join. Quite pleased with that.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I think I've got about as far as I can with this pair before they need to go off to have their DCC and sound installed. I'm leaving final cosmetic stuff (door handrails, roof fixing and numbers) off 10001 until then.
Today I finished sorting out my bulkhead error. The new bulkheads are a trifle more awkward and less detailed than my previous efforts, because they straddle the exciter end of the engine. Most probably, they won't be noticed, but they serve to block some light between the engine and clean compartments.
Something had been bugging me about 10000, which was the roof had been painted grey (and finished off with a rather blobby satin varnish which had yellowed). After some consideration, I resolved to dry brush a mix of matt black and aluminium over the roof. It now has the look of a slightly weathered aluminium paint. Chronologically, of course, 10001 ought to more weathered than its older sibling. After being presented to the world in December 1947, 10000 went back to Derby Works to be finished. While it was in the works, 10001 emerged, and some modifications were made to 10000 in the light of experience. 10001, meanwhile, clocked up some route miles and would have appeared a bit grubbier. They both got a good clean before they hauled the first Royal Scot as a pair.
I ought to finish that other 10001 that's been languishing on the shelf for ages. Realistically, other builds will come first. Back to the bench!
