4mm Monks Ferry LNWR

[john lewsey]

Hi Jonte, any news on the Precedent?

 

[jonte]

Hi John and many thanks for your interest.

After a swift response from Rails’ investigation team and forwarding of photos of the model for inspection, I received a standard Returns link. It appears that I’m to return the model and will be reimbursed.

Whilst I’m grateful, I was rather hoping they could repair the model and return it to me as I adore it; I was even prepared to pay for any cost incurred.

Whilst I’m no expert, my own diagnosis is that the housings for the bearings on the axle aren’t deep enough to retain the wheels in position.

Unfortunately, they’ve no others in stock so I can’t request an exchange.

Heigh, Ho.

Jon

 

[john lewsey]

Hi, I am pretty sure that Locomotion models have them .
John

 

[jonte]

Hi, I am pretty sure that Locomotion models have them .
John

Thanks, John.

Will have a butcher’s.

Jon

 

[jonte]

Whilst awaiting the arrival of a new set of micro drills for the Ratio signals, I finished off clearing out the spectacle plates on the arms as seen, and began cutting the operating wires to length as per the instructions. The drills have since arrived and the parts drilled out as required, so when I’ve a free day or so, I’ll cut them from the sprues and begin priming them ready for painting then construction.

Not a lot of time fir modelling recently, so I decided to grab the odd hour or so to see if I could achieve a smaller job or two.

Over the weekend, I treated the knots in the wood, and earlier this morning prior to picking up one of my grandchildren I grabbed a 45 minute window to mask off one or two areas of the casing prior to painting. Then an hour this afternoon while he had a nap saw me applying one of these all in one formulas which I used on another layout yonx ago. It’ll do:



That’s the first coat done. Hopefully a second before the week’s out.

Won’t win any prizes for presentation but wil hide a multitude of sins.

Still need to cut an end section for the casing in the foreground.

Cheers for now.

jonte

PS

According to my album, I stored this find on ‘net in 2018. Sorry I can’t give credit as I’ve no idea where it was sourced, but came across it earlier which has really inspired me:



The background very much reminds of something from Townsecenes.

In addendum, I managed to source a replace Precedent from Rails.

All good.

j.

 

[john lewsey]

Looking good Jonte

 

[Phil O]

Jonte,

I think that picture is the real thing posing as a model.

 

[jonte]

Jonte,

I think that picture is the real thing posing as a model.

Hi Phil.

From memory, I think it’s an original (b&w) photo of Manchester Exchange, but coloured by the poster using software of some sort.

Hope that helps.

Jon

 

[jonte]

Just thought I’d share another idea I’ve had recently (another example of mind modelling).

In the above photos, you might be able to make out the uncouplers towards the end of each of the three roads. These are the Gaugemaster solenoid variety, the fitting of which I recorded earlier in this thread. They worked but needed some customising to help them lift vertically without swivelling. Another issue was despite altering the positioning of the limiter on the shaft, they either failed to lift the couplers high enough to clear the D loops such that they didn’t uncouple, or when they did, lifted the stock with them. Additionally, I found them uncomfortable to use having to ensure that the loco was moved away as swiftly as possible to reduce the time the solenoid was activated to prevent burn out.

Dissatisfied, I recall I’d decided to bin them and opt for the simpler non electrical Kirby method of uncoupling.

However, after researching the use of ‘power drives’ for servos controlling the bounce on semaphores used previously (Heathcote), I wondered whether this could be successfully applied to uncouplers. Unlike the more complicated drivers required fir the bounce bit of the semaphores, all that would be required fir this purpose would be control of the ‘end’ points (and these drivers are able to move the servo arms to the nth of a degree), to achieve the optimum height for accurate uncoupling.

Having learned of the existence of MERG over the years (always considered electronics well over my head!) I did a bit of digging and discovered that members are offered simple beginners kits known as Pocket Money kits, which more than admirably appear to do the job.
So I got to thinking: if I could fabricate some sort of connection to the lifting shafts of the Gaugemaster uncouplers (the end points of the drivers would obviate the need for the problematic bolt-on shafts) then I could achieve precise lift to release the uncouplers without lifting the stock in the process. Once switched, the servo arm would remain in position until I’d eventually moved the loco forward, in my own time, removing the worry of burning out a noisy, vibrating solenoid in the process.

I’m not certain whether it’s achievable, but I’m going to apply for membership of MERG just to give it a go. The good thing is that the holes are already present in the console for the on/on switches required.

jonte

 

[Phil O]

Jonte,

The MERG PMK servo drivers do work, but it takes some fiddling to get them set up, I've used them on Dapol signals which had given up the ghost.

 

[jonte]

Thanks, Phil.

Did you use the end points of the servos to achieve a ninety degree angle to the post (and if so was there any droop?) or was there a ‘stop’ on the post for that?

Were you satisfied with the results, albeit a lot of fiddling about involved, or was it a case of never again?

Hope you don’t mind my asking.

Best.

Jon

Btw: I note Clive at Heathcote supplies an uncoupler which acts like what I’ve in mind, but don’t want to bother him too much at present due to his current unfortunate circumstances.

 

[simond]

Jon,

I may misunderstand your question, but don’t ever have a hard stop on a servo - rather like an unruly toddler they get very cross, and push as hard as they can if they are not allowed to go as far as they want.

an alternative - arduinos and servos work quite well together.

best
Simon

 

[jonte]

Jon,

I may misunderstand your question, but don’t ever have a hard stop on a servo - rather like an unruly toddler they get very cross, and push as hard as they can if they are not allowed to go as far as they want.

an alternative - arduinos and servos work quite well together.

best
Simon

Hi Simon and many thanks for sharing.

It’s probably my ignorance of the subject which has confused, but these ‘drivers’ as I call them appear to be a series of resistors and other components on a relatively small motherboard, replete with several metal squares that have buttons in them (or at least for controlling bouncing semaphores). Essentially, say with a semaphore signal, the control wire goes from the balance weight to the servo arm. The servo is then connected to the motherboard as described. One button as I recall is used to set one end point by moving the servo arm one way to the desired position (arm ninety degrees to post) then another is pressed to move the servo arm to the up or down point depending on whether upper or lower quadrant. The other buttons are used to control the amount of bounce required in between although the driver operates them randomly like the real thing (see my video somewhere up there ).

Essentially, I only require the end point buttons for what I have in mind for the uncouplers and these seem to be offered by the Pocket Money kits if I’ve read the article right.

Still, Simon, I’m open to any suggestions that an ignoramus like me can understand so I’d be delighted to learn a little more of that’s okay?

Many thanks.

Jon

 

[John57sharp]

I’m too tired to read about electickery tonight, I’ll catch up in the morning, but glad to hear you got your Precedent sorted and that photo looks a real treat.

John

 

[simond]

Hi Simon and many thanks for sharing.

It’s probably my ignorance of the subject which has confused, but these ‘drivers’ as I call them appear to be a series of resistors and other components on a relatively small motherboard, replete with several metal squares that have buttons in them (or at least for controlling bouncing semaphores). Essentially, say with a semaphore signal, the control wire goes from the balance weight to the servo arm. The servo is then connected to the motherboard as described. One button as I recall is used to set one end point by moving the servo arm one way to the desired position (arm ninety degrees to post) then another is pressed to move the servo arm to the up or down point depending on whether upper or lower quadrant. The other buttons are used to control the amount of bounce required in between although the driver operates them randomly like the real thing (see my video somewhere up there ).

Essentially, I only require the end point buttons for what I have in mind for the uncouplers and these seem to be offered by the Pocket Money kits if I’ve read the article right.

Still, Simon, I’m open to any suggestions that an ignoramus like me can understand so I’d be delighted to learn a little more of that’s okay?

Many thanks.

Jon

Ok, I had misunderstood!

your approach of using a servo controller, and setting the endpoints on that is perfectly fine.

I was concerned that you were going to have a mechanical stop to set the servo travel endpoint. That would generally end in tears (and maybe smoke).

cheers
Simon

 

[PaxtonP4]

Jonte,

The MERG PMK servo drivers do work, but it takes some fiddling to get them set up, I've used them on Dapol signals which had given up the ghost.

You would be better off using the Servo 1 kit (kit 77 or 77R). There are two options: one for points and one for signals. The option for signals gives you the ability to have "Bounce".

 

[Phil O]

Thanks, Phil.

Did you use the end points of the servos to achieve a ninety degree angle to the post (and if so was there any droop?) or was there a ‘stop’ on the post for that?

Were you satisfied with the results, albeit a lot of fiddling about involved, or was it a case of never again?

Hope you don’t mind my asking.

Best.

Jon

Btw: I note Clive at Heathcote supplies an uncoupler which acts like what I’ve in mind, but don’t want to bother him too much at present due to his current unfortunate circumstances.

Hi Jon,

No, using the full sweep of the servo was not required.

The 3 "buttons" are variable potentiometers that contain a screw adjuster, two of which set the end points of the servo sweep and the 3rd sets the speed. Getting the end point for the signal arm horizontal is the worst part, the 45 degree angle is easier as there's some tolerance, in that as long as it looks ok, it's good enough and the speed is a matter of choice. Remembering which pot does what is the worst part.

I have also used the servo4's which are easier to set up with servo set. Once set up they are great.

.

 

[jonte]

I’m too tired to read about electickery tonight, I’ll catch up in the morning, but glad to hear you got your Precedent sorted and that photo looks a real treat.

John

Funnily Enough, I invariably experience a sense of weariness at any time when electronics is explained

Thanks, John, and glad you like the image too.

Jon

 

[jonte]

Ok, I had misunderstood!

your approach of using a servo controller, and setting the endpoints on that is perfectly fine.

I was concerned that you were going to have a mechanical stop to set the servo travel endpoint. That would generally end in tears (and maybe smoke).

cheers
Simon

Many thanks for your reassurance, Simon.

Appreciated as always.

Jon

 

[jonte]

You would be better off using the Servo 1 kit (kit 77 or 77R). There are two options: one for points and one for signals. The option for signals gives you the ability to have "Bounce".

Many thanks for that, Pax. Think I saw those listed on one of the pages.

Jon