Mike G's Workspace.

[Mike Garwood]

It's been a while since I updated this thread - work - the curse of the modelling classes.

So, all the detailing work has been completed on the body and I've gone as far as I can with the chassis. So today, the whole lot has gone into primer. I've not gone down my normal route of Halfords grey or Upol, I've choosen to go for Vallejo surface primer. There is a reason for this, it's too cold to spray outside and there is very little or no smell from the primer, well none that I can detect. I expect my wife to moan once she comes in from work! I've used acrylics before, but never a primer. It doesn't take much to cover the model and chassis and I used the 'flow improver' that is available. It's gone on well, the blurb says to leave it 12 hours before applying a top coat. I'd have loved to wait for the warmer weather but the list of models requiring paint is now getting to a serious length, plus I have a brand new tin of Celly gloss black to try once it does warm up.



The blemishes that you can see on the chassis are where I wrote numbers for the hornblocks. As the wheels will cover most of this I wasn't too concerned.

Time to open a window...

Stay safe

Mike

 

[Mike Garwood]

I've got the beasty into black. Again I've used Vallejo paints, the colour has dried really matt...not what I really wanted. It's not a problem, some gloss varnish will sort out the transfers, so they will adhere. Also have to put it into some noocks and crannies so that the weathering powders will take. Then onto a blast of muck from the airbrush.







Yep, I've missed some places, but the grot covering will sort those out. See if I can find a black gloss from Vallejo for future use. Absolutely no smell from the paint when it went thru the gun and cleaned up really easily as well. Not delighted with the result, but pleased enough. Now to get the chassis together and see if I have a working model!

Stay safe

Mike

 

[AJC]

Hi Mike,

While not being exactly what you're after, it's far from the end of the world - I'd just gloss the tank sides, it's not as though these were ever in the queue for cleaning! I wonder, however, whether the texture on the vac' pipes on the front in particular isn't a mite too pronounced? We know that it's there in reality of course, but to my eye, it's the slight difference in diameter that's the more obvious difference.

All best,

Adam

 

[Mike Garwood]

Adam

I think it's the camera angle - it isn't that big in reality...honest . Nights tonight, so hopefully more on the weekend.

Mike

 

[Mike Garwood]

I've had some down time today before going back to the salt mine. This included dressing the crew and painting the front bogie...this isn't fixed in place yet, but by the end of todays session it will be.



As you can see the chassis fits perfectly into the body and all the holes in the chassis line up with the corresponding holes in the body...which makes a nice change!
Here's a view of the chassis with the motor mounted, this still needs some attention and the 2 points of isolation need to be joined so I can fit the chip.



Finally the body got some of it's transfers as well. The cabside numbers will go on later today, the smokebox number is from Pacific models and is printed. Which is why the glue has dragged it at an awkward angle and just for good measure lifted it higher up the smoke box door! I do have a spare in the form of the Modelmaster S/B door, but I'm wondering if I can live with this once it's grimmed up - save myself some more work.



Back to it...

Stay safe

Mike

 

[Mike Garwood]

Bit of a crap day, where things didn't exactly go as I wanted. Pick ups...the bain of my modeling life! Now when you see the photo don't laugh too hard. It all fits and the wheels spring as they should, the pick ups are prone to stray off the wheels though.

For that reason alone I'm not the happiest bunny in Cwmbran. I'm going to have to think about this - usually the solution presents itself and more times than not it works. Anyway, you can have a laugh at my expense - life is too short to be serious and this is just a hobby - honest.



I don't need to restrain the motor as it is literally banging it's head on the ceiling of lead that I've crammed into the body. That chunk of lead on the pony means that the spring that I put into it, is working as the wheels are now set at the mid point - or as near as dammit.

Time for a coffee or something stronger!

Stay safe

Mike

 

[NewportRod]

Mike, no one's laughing, we've all been there!

Would phosphor bronze strip be less likely to move from side-to-side than wire? I'll drop some in the post to you if you want to try.

LBH

 

[Mike Garwood]

Thanks for the offer Rod, but I’ve some in a t-chest somewhere. I’m thinking I should put the pick ups underneath and make the connections between the motor and chip removable.
I bought a pile of small - very small - connectors ages ago.
Essentially I should have changed the gearbox when I saw it sitting so low in the chassis.
I must stop being so stubborn and see that when it’s wrong...it is just that - WRONG.
Anyway, moving on....

Mike

 

[3 LINK]

I personally would still fit the pick ups above, rather than have wiring all entwined in the chassis. They are well hidden under the footplate and like LBH said, I think phosphor bronze would be a better bet.

Your a good modeller, ever thought of trying 7mm ? I think you’d like it, I gave it a go back in the late 80’s and have never looked back .

Cheers,

Martyn.

 

[3 LINK]

Here’s a photo of a 42xx I built a few years back, just to wet your appetite....



Martyn.

 

[Mike Garwood]

That Sir, is a bit of Steam porn! Beautiful build.

I have thought about 7 mm before, but it's the price of the kits that puts me off. As you can tell I like BIG engines. I generally build about 2 a year plus some coaches. Except when I'm locked up in my house and there's nothing else to do. God forbid that I venture into the garden!

I think you may be right about the pick ups, I just need to set them further away from the chassis so that they can't drift off the wheel or have the oppourtunity to do so.

Thank you for the compliment.

Mike

 

[simond]

Come on in, the water’s lovely...



the kit was from Warren Shepherd, £350 New Page 1
Wheels - Slaters £22 per axle plus pony truck £16
Motor - Crailcrest 2-stage helical £75. Lots of other options exist, eg Premier 2- stage helical
I fitted brass hornblocks/guides, Slaters do them but you’ll need two sets. I think I used Fourtrack but I don’t think they are still available. About £30
Decoder - standard Zimo MX645 £95
Crew Modelu £15

£670 plus glue, paint & transfers, and some bits & pieces. I built this one about 15 years back, so it was probably a bit cheaper, but I think this is pretty representative. And maybe doubling the headline price of the kit to cover wheels, motor etc., is a reasonable starting point.

Atb
Simon

 

[Dave Holt]

Mike.
Resist the siren calls of those 7 mm bods, you know P4 makes sense.
Regarding the pick-ups, I've successfully used 0.33 mm brass wire wipers on top of the wheel treads. To help prevent them from wandering off the treads, I make sure that their natural position is between the back of the wheels and the frames and just below the tread of the wheels at their full down position on the suspension.
Good luck with it.
Dave.

 

[3 LINK]

Mike,

Treat yourself to a 7mm wagon, any wagon. The slippery slope awaits .

You know it makes sense .....

Martyn.

 

[Mike Garwood]

Brake gear has been deployed and fitted. This was a right PIA. Getting the brakes flush with the wheels and allowing enough distance in the brake to allow for sideplay on the rear 2 drivers nearly drove me bonkers! I also had to cut some material away from the gearbox as one of the top rods hadn't been cut close enough to the G/box and was causing one of the springs to misbehave - by resting on the back of the wheel. I'm grateful that it did'nt ping off into the distance as I would have had to strip the chassis!

Just looking at this photo and I can see some work needs doing on the one brake...damn!




I have also sorted my leading axle out as well, such that, there's a gauge 13 (about 0.4mm dia) sprung wire now controlling the pony. This should lead the chassis through any curves and point work. This has worked on some of my other engines.
You can just see the wire coming from the chassis to the pony - in the middle of the springs for the bearings.



I'm well known for using bluetac to keep things in place. But I did try super glue on these wires, but it just would not take. I don't trust myself to put small amounts of epoxy on a chassis. I have a tendancy to get it every where. On me, the desk, the computer, everywhere except where it's supposed to go.
Next tasks will be the balance weights followed by the coupling rods and finish the cylinders - they aren't detailed yet. My chip arrived yesterday, so that needs to be installed as well.

Martyn - if you're reading this - how did you get that wonderful oily finish on your wheels?

Stay safe

Mike

 

[3 LINK]

Hi Mike,

I use mainly Humbrol “ metalcote “ Gunmetal, with a small drop of Tarmac (112 ) added. When dry I gently polish the wheels with a cotton bud which then leave a dull sheen. Not my idea, poached from Martyn Welch’s excellent book “ The art of weathering “.

I must just say, regarding the brake shoes. They are a breeze to set up in 7mm. Right where’s my jacket, I’m off.....

Martyn.

 

[Mike Garwood]

Martyn

Do you think that the same effect could be achieved with acrylic paints...I'm assuming you used enamel.

regards

Mike

 

[3 LINK]

Hi Mike,

Yes I did use enamels, and to be honest I do not think you could achieve the same or a similar result using acrylics. With the ( Metalcote ) there is some form of pigment in the paint itself and it’s that, that brings out the sheen effect. I have been toying around with acrylics, especially applied through an airbrush and I like using them, and also the ease of the clean up after use, but I still think enamels takes some beating when it comes to certain effects, in my opinion that is.

Martyn.

 

[Mike Garwood]

Back from the salt mine for a while and I've managed to get some more work done. Coupling rods, chip and cylinders are now all fitted. I have a free running chassis, after a few tweaks. One of the bosses off the wheels was slightly catching the coupling rod, so it was just a case of removal, file, replace refit, till the problem vanished. Absolutely no dramas in getting the wheels to rotate with the rods which was a great surprise. I had major issues with my 8f some years ago.
The chip has been sited on the downside of the motor - because the motor mount is slanted, you can see this in some of the previous photos.



Also all the problems with the brakes have been sorted, but in doing so I've caught the paint, so some touching in to do. The pipe work at the rear will be attached to the steps once running trials are finished. I've put the cylinders together and detailed them as best I can from the photos I have available for 5214. Not the best, but it does give an impression of what should be there. Having looked at other 42's there's a right old mish mash of drain cocks on these engines. I've found 3 differing types, without having to look too hard, so if you do build one of these best get some good photos.



If you think the engine looks down at the rear, you'd be right...by almost one mil. Corrected after I'd taken the photo. What's also apparent is the front end is sniffing the air, nothing can be done about that now, way too late. It's only now that I've taken photos that it's been noticable.
A few more jobs still to do, connecting rods to attach, cab roof to make permainent and weathering. The photo I have of this engine running from Nelson to HHL shows it completely filthy. So plenty of oppourtunity to make a complete hash of that then!

Stay safe

Mike

 

[Phil O]

Eight coupled tanks certainly have a presence about them, I have a PDK kit in the stash, bought before the Hornby offering.