7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench

[mickoo]

It's a DCC weekend for a couple of Loveless models. First up is the A4, nothing untoward until you try and fit the V5L chip. There really isn't a lot of room in here despite the huge casing, above the motor is a massive weight and the smokebox is enclosed with a fake tube plate and floor which hold a smoke generator I think, it's not wired and the speaker has been removed as well.

I tried to fit the adapter board with screw terminals, no chance, then the smaller one with soldered tabs, still no chance; so ended up making a 3D support and soldering direct to the pins.

The clip has a lip at the top to hold the board in place, the base is simply a tight fit with a thin strip of double sided tape to stop it wobbling about.

For future builds I'll try and find some of those two square pin plugs I've seen kicking around, the PCD should match the chip pins and I only need six connections and all are pared up next to each other.

The brass strip at the front is just a backup to stop the speaker swinging, it's quite tight on the one fixing screw but the clip is a plan B basically.

Having sorted all that it was set up and tested and for the hell of it, some studio shots for the archives.

Next up an A3, I suspect it'll be totally different inside.

 

[Lancastrian]

Mick,

These type ? Model Railway Micro Plug & Socket

Ian

 

[simond]

They look like standard 0.1” pitch header pins. Lots of suppliers including RA, Hobbytronics, Amazon & eBay. Very useful for playing with Arduinos, etc. It’s easy to crimp the mating bit onto suitable wire, and it’s possible to buy plastic connector bodies in various formats, including 2x4 which is handy for DCC.

JST connectors JST connector - Wikipedia are convenient but hyper fiddly to crimp, the components are available from RS and other suppliers, but packs of pre-crimped male and female connectors appear on Amazon & eBay.

 

[mickoo]

MOK King Arthur finally finished, it'll get a light oil and then more running in to set up the DCC chuff rate etc.

I've not added the couplings yet, I'm still looking for some decent ones.

Paint by Warren Heywood

 

[mickoo]

Also recently back from paint (Warren Heywood) are the Finney7 Hall and David Andrews Royal Scot, in that order they'll go for reassembly, wheels, motor, DCC and back head detailing/fitting over the next few weekends.

 

[mickoo]

A very poor phone photo today at the lovely Bucks Hill layout, my first visit there too. A couple of niggles, but overall it ran respectably well, always a sigh of relief to see that. It did show the value of being able to add a reasonable load and just do circuits.

A massive thank you to the Bucks Hill crew for the lovely reception and letting it pound some miles before sign off and hand over.

 

[Eastsidepilot]

........................... It did show the value of being able to add a reasonable load and just do circuits......................

.

This what we have found with Love Lane, the loco's get run in nicely.

 

[mickoo]

This what we have found with Love Lane, the loco's get run in nicely.

Agreed, my only problem with using Love Lane is that y'all broad gauge folks

 

[Focalplane]

But there can be a problem. Moor Street offers a continuous double track run (through the Snow Hill storage sidings). Leaving certain RTR locos running for too long and bits do fall off, never to be found again. I am happy to say that that hasn't happened to any kit built loco (too much solder used?) or my cherished Lee Marsh Jubilee. You pays your money. . . .

As an afterthought, I suppose there is "running in" and "running out".

 

[mickoo]

And then there were two, photo's always let you see things you've missed. I need to go back to the first one and add the handle for the coal sluice gate and the tender rear step hoops are not tall enough, they'll need removing and new taller ones fitted.

I still need to fabricate and fit the tank retention strap at some point as well.

 

[Richard Gawler]

Too true, Warren actually prefers brass tarnished as the primer adheres better, even after my ultra sonic clean he still gives them a quick rinse with shiny sinks, bar keepers friend, whatever etc before the primer coat goes on.

The Tarnish isn't a build or paint issue at all, just a publicity nightmare tarnished models are not good adverts for your skills.

Pl;ease excuse this minor backtrack.

I have just bought a secondhand brass kit. This looks quite old . . . the frets are heavily tarnished, but appear to be all present and correct.

Do we know whether U-pol no.8 etching primer will stick onto tarnish? This is the only primer for brass I've been able to get on with.

I possess a tube of Solvol Autosol but this is going to be near-impossible to use consistently in half-etched panel detail, and I am still merely aspiring towards an ultrasonic bath. Though with every new model the temptation gets harder to resist.

Many thanks.

 

[mickoo]

It really does depend on how bad the tarnish is, if it's just natural oxidization then you will probably be okay, but I suspect there'll be finger grease and goodness knows whatever on there as well.

More importantly, you mention frets which means you have to assemble it? In which case you'll not be able to solder it all, tarnished brass is very difficult if not impossible to solder well.

You're best bet is a domestic cleaner like shiny sinks, bar keepers friend or Limelite (which I use) that should get rid of any surface muck and allow you to solder. Squirt it on, leave it for a couple of minutes and then wash off in hot water with a dash of fairy liquid. Many people avoid fairy liquid for various reasons, I've never had any issues with it and easily solder right afterward, it's probably not a good liquid to use as your final wash but my final wash is usually 99.9% IPA or (sometimes both) cellulose thinners, both will cleanse off any thing left by other domestic cleaning agents.

Ultra sonic baths don't get rid of tarnish, unless you will them with obnoxious chemicals; ultra sonic baths are primarily for getting rid of any dirt or crud which accumulates during the build process, glass fibres, dirt from sanding or smoothing type of stuff from nooks and crannies.

 

[Richard Gawler]

Yes, this is an unbuilt kit. Bought 'open box', and I'll guess the parts might well have been handled a few times before the seller decided to sell it on.

Anyway - we can add Cif "Perfect Finish - Stainless Steel - 100% Streak-free Shine" cleaner to the list. I bought this in Poundstretchers for my kitchen sink, which it cleaned very well. A test application has turned a patch of a fret from a sort of stale honey colour into looking like gold plate.

 

[Eastsidepilot]

Agreed, my only problem with using Love Lane is that y'all broad gauge folks

Yes I forgot you are working in Oh! gauge

 

[mickoo]

Yes I forgot you are working in Oh! gauge

Steady.....there's more of us than you

I do know where to go if I ever get an S7 commission, then y'all free to laugh at my expense

 

[Eastsidepilot]

Steady.....there's more of us than you

I do know where to go if I ever get an S7 commission, then y'all free to laugh at my expense

We'd be glad to see you anytime Mick, your always welcome and don't forget your still considered part of the group mate but I know life gets busy.
Enjoying the thread mate.
Col.

 

[Allen M]

Don't use Solvo Autosol as it leaves an oily surface to protect the crome plate it is intended for.

Regards
Allen

 

[Richard Gawler]

Don't use Solvo Autosol as it leaves an oily surface to protect the crome plate it is intended for.

Regards
Allen

It seems to me, Solvol Autosol improves solderability. I think it's a nice thing to apply to a model to show it off to friends and family and indeed before taking photos, but you would want to soak the model in something like Viakal before priming. So it has uses, but conditional ones.

 

[mickoo]

There were a couple of niggles with the Duke sound files that needed tweaking, which happily coincided with a running visit to Bucks Hill, it was a shame to not make use of the back drop for a few photos.

Not my photo as numptie here left the camera memory card at home, kindly taken by another member and very nice too.

 

[mickoo]

Moderate to fair progress on the first BLP chassis so far this week. I've opted for the compensation bean set up, easy to do, nice smooth ride and like Ronseal, does what it says on the tin.

The springs and hangers are very 2D, yes I know they can't be seen behind the Bulleid wheels, but when you turn it upside down it's like finding the bottom of your steak and kidney pie is all soggy.

Anyway, it all came off to give nice smooth frames as a canvas to start adding it all back with more detail.

I also took off the etched sides for the oil pan, the real deal is much chunkier and sticks out wider than the frames, the etches are half etch inset from the frames, it's a small detail but easily seen between the drivers at normal viewing angles. The oil pan also has the hangers as part of the sub structure and frame bracing. All in all it'll need a full new set up down there.

Up front is a new 3D bogie stay and bearing assembly, from low levels you can see this vacant space between the bogie, wheels and cylinder blocks so it needs filling in. The next piece will be the middle cylinder block tucked up high behind it and ahead of the leading driving wheel.