mickoo
Western Thunderer
Last edited:
7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench
- Thread starter mickoo
- Start date
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Just a small detail, the kit was a wire spigot, just not going to cut it these days.
Still WIP.
Also, if you're building the DA Princess then don't fit this plate, it doesn't exist. The Princess Royal has a totally different form of support and side control, this plate only exists on Coronations. A big give away are the rivets (and lack of) where the support plate fixes to the frames.
Princess Royal.
Princess Coronation.
Still WIP.
Also, if you're building the DA Princess then don't fit this plate, it doesn't exist. The Princess Royal has a totally different form of support and side control, this plate only exists on Coronations. A big give away are the rivets (and lack of) where the support plate fixes to the frames.
Princess Royal.
Princess Coronation.
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mickoo
Western Thunderer
Weekly update on the DA Princess Royal, it's all about putting the flesh on the bones now. I made a new bogie pivot stay, the kit one is half way up the frames so the fixing screw pokes down between the inside crossheads 
Like the real thing it has a depressed centre so the bogie will need modifying as well, in fact, very little of the kit bogie will remain I suspect. The depressed part is important from low side views as it's a big light blocker and gives the area a sense of mass. I've also added a cosmetic 3D bogie pivot casting, you can see the ribs and such like through the holes in the frames so worth adding as a little detail.
I also added the reversing lever weigh shaft internal bearings and will be adding the cranks for the transfer rods to the inside lifting links nearer the front. To the rear a 3D rear boiler support stay, there's a bit to go on top that actually supports the boiler but I'll add that once the boiler and footplate are fitted.
Underneath, four of the six axle boxes, horn guides and springs are fitted, not the rear horn guides are different and are near copies from the Royal Scot class. The intermediate axle has two chassis bracing tie rods each side and those fit in the little mickey mouse ear tabs, the tie rods are 2 mm OD and the hole 1mm OD so I'll turn some up and drop them in; a dab of solder on the end of the shafts will bond with the frames and make the whole lot rigid.
Beware the valve guide blocks and front castings, they're just too long, the top two are turned down to the correct length, the bottom two are from the kit, this impacts the visuals and motion as the valve die/slide block is in the wrong place, it also makes the casting foul the slide bars so you need a bit of jiggery pokery to get it all to fit. You'll also need to open the hole out in the cylinder rear face (upward and outward) so that the casting then fits in the correct place.
Like the real thing it has a depressed centre so the bogie will need modifying as well, in fact, very little of the kit bogie will remain I suspect. The depressed part is important from low side views as it's a big light blocker and gives the area a sense of mass. I've also added a cosmetic 3D bogie pivot casting, you can see the ribs and such like through the holes in the frames so worth adding as a little detail.
I also added the reversing lever weigh shaft internal bearings and will be adding the cranks for the transfer rods to the inside lifting links nearer the front. To the rear a 3D rear boiler support stay, there's a bit to go on top that actually supports the boiler but I'll add that once the boiler and footplate are fitted.
Underneath, four of the six axle boxes, horn guides and springs are fitted, not the rear horn guides are different and are near copies from the Royal Scot class. The intermediate axle has two chassis bracing tie rods each side and those fit in the little mickey mouse ear tabs, the tie rods are 2 mm OD and the hole 1mm OD so I'll turn some up and drop them in; a dab of solder on the end of the shafts will bond with the frames and make the whole lot rigid.
Beware the valve guide blocks and front castings, they're just too long, the top two are turned down to the correct length, the bottom two are from the kit, this impacts the visuals and motion as the valve die/slide block is in the wrong place, it also makes the casting foul the slide bars so you need a bit of jiggery pokery to get it all to fit. You'll also need to open the hole out in the cylinder rear face (upward and outward) so that the casting then fits in the correct place.
Clarence3815
Western Thunderer
Mighty fine.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Finally calling this one done, not the easiest of builds, quite a few alterations to correct some issues but nothing untoward and pretty much as you'd expect from a kit of this age.
All said and done, you can get a nice model of a Hughes Crab from the kit.
I don't generally have any trouble handing models over after completion, but this, the Jubilee and Royal Scot I could quite easily let sit here. They'd make a good staple base for a BR(M) depot diorama based around Cheshire, an odd early diesel sneaking in, perhaps an early bright and fresh 25Kv 'roarer' in a siding near by....now that's a yawning chasm of a rabbit hole to look down
All said and done, you can get a nice model of a Hughes Crab from the kit.
I don't generally have any trouble handing models over after completion, but this, the Jubilee and Royal Scot I could quite easily let sit here. They'd make a good staple base for a BR(M) depot diorama based around Cheshire, an odd early diesel sneaking in, perhaps an early bright and fresh 25Kv 'roarer' in a siding near by....now that's a yawning chasm of a rabbit hole to look down
Compton castle
Western Thunderer
Sounds like a rabbit hole well worth exploring
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Some more work on the LNWR 2-4-2T, pretty much all new plate work and fittings now. A few more bits to go top sides before going back to the chassis for the inside motion and the rest of the detail bits.
I still need to add the tank front closure plates, I just remembered that after fitting the handrails and flanged support brackets....so off they all come, you gotta laugh.
I still need to add the tank front closure plates, I just remembered that after fitting the handrails and flanged support brackets....so off they all come, you gotta laugh.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
0/10 for missing them in the first place
mickoo
Western Thunderer
One of the problems with the Gladiator (and by default DA) ROD tenders is that the flare angles do not fit and consequently get all the blame.
The issue lies elsewhere in the side flare pieces, the rear ends do not have enough overhang so when formed do not meet or match the rear piece (which is substantially correct). The up shot is that the side flares need their curvature reduced so that they meet the rear and form a neat joint.
All this results in an overhang that is too small (about 2 mm and it should be 3.2 mm) and angles that need reshaping to suit.
Having two more of these tenders to do in the pile I decided to redraw the flared sections; the end wasn't really necessary as the kit is pretty good, but hey, whilst here, why not.
A quick messy tack up and test fit and it all looks pretty good, I've not added the sides so that'll push the flares out/back by 0.4/5 mm and consequently the rear joint will change slightly, currently it's slightly over with a 3.6 mm overhang, adding the sides will drop that back closer to scale overhang.
More importantly, the angles drop in with a little tweak to compensate for the excess overhang due to the lack of side sheets.
The next step is to sign over that art work to David at Gladiator.
First photo is the original flare angle from the ROD build recently.
The issue lies elsewhere in the side flare pieces, the rear ends do not have enough overhang so when formed do not meet or match the rear piece (which is substantially correct). The up shot is that the side flares need their curvature reduced so that they meet the rear and form a neat joint.
All this results in an overhang that is too small (about 2 mm and it should be 3.2 mm) and angles that need reshaping to suit.
Having two more of these tenders to do in the pile I decided to redraw the flared sections; the end wasn't really necessary as the kit is pretty good, but hey, whilst here, why not.
A quick messy tack up and test fit and it all looks pretty good, I've not added the sides so that'll push the flares out/back by 0.4/5 mm and consequently the rear joint will change slightly, currently it's slightly over with a 3.6 mm overhang, adding the sides will drop that back closer to scale overhang.
More importantly, the angles drop in with a little tweak to compensate for the excess overhang due to the lack of side sheets.
The next step is to sign over that art work to David at Gladiator.
First photo is the original flare angle from the ROD build recently.
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Well caught, Mick.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Yeah I’m leaving mine too as it’s all painted now.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Well that's one way to put iron in your diet
though being brass, probably not advisable.
