Ian Rathbone's Workshop

[sjp23480]

@LarryG,

Thanks for the addiitonal information - I did use Maskol for some parts, but I put it on after the tape - will have to try beforehand next time!

Its looking okay, I hope the lining will hide some of the flaws in the join between the chocolate and cream.

I tried to upload a picture, but the file was too large - I will try again later. Spolier alert - it is not up to Ian or Larry's standards, but it is my own work!

Thanks all
Stephen

 

[sjp23480]

Here's a picture:

 

[Mike Trice]

I am sure there will be a far more informed solution due from someone but one tip I have read about and tried is this.

Paint your first colour.
Apply masking tape.
Paint the first colour over the join in the tape.
When dry paint your second colour.
Remove tape.

What happens is when psinting the first colour for the second time it leaches under the masking tape effectively sealing the gaps, then when the second colour is applied it can no longer leach. Hope that makes sense.

 

[sjp23480]

Thanks @Mike Trice - grateful to have such luminaries (@Ian Rathbone and @LarryG) share ther techniques.

My approach so far
1. Prime with self etch primer (UPOL Acid #8)
2. Masked the body and painted the underframe (Halfords rattle can satin black)
3. Masked the underframe/lower sides and airbrushed GWR Coach cream (Phoenix Precision)
4. Masked the cream (not very well) and the underframe, airbrushed GWR Coach brown (Phoenix Precision)
5. Touched up the overspray by hand

To do:
1. Add the coach lining (HMRS) - sorry my lining pen skills are not there yet
2. Re visit any remaining overspray
3. Hand line the GWR Coach brown below the cantrail (bow pen)
4. Hand line the window droplights (planning to use a maroon touch up pen from Halfords)
5. Add the GWR emblems, numbers, etc (HMRS)
6. Airbrush satin varnish (Phoenix Precision) - will this affect the HMRS transfers?
7. Add glazing
8. Finish assembly: interior with passengers and staff, bogies and roof (all these are complete)

9. Give to my father for Christmas and hope he appreciates it!!!!!

20 days and counting!

Stephen

 

[simond]

On the basis that the brown covers the cream very well, I usually spray all-over cream first, then mask and apply the brown.

thanks to @Mike Trice I shall apply a second coat of cream after applying the masking tape. Great tip, thanks!

 

[Daddyman]

Do I remember that it's a lot easier to clean up overspray if you use gloss paints - at least for the first colour. Isn't that in Ian's book?

 

[sjp23480]

Do I remember that it's a lot easier to clean up overspray if you use gloss paints - at least for the first colour. Isn't that in Ian's book?

I don't have Ian's book, not do I have suitable gloss paint. Perhaps a coat of gloss varnish over the cream before applying the brown?

Stephen

 

[Ian Rathbone]

I don’t know if I agree with a second coat of paint after masking as this will increase the amount of paint resting against the edge of the tape. This will produce a ridge in the paint just where the lining goes.

I normally put the cream on first but on the compo it was far simpler to do the chocolate first.

Ian R

 

[simond]

I don’t know if I agree with a second coat of paint after masking as this will increase the amount of paint resting against the edge of the tape. This will produce a ridge in the paint just where the lining goes.

I normally put the cream on first but on the compo it was far simpler to do the chocolate first.

Ian R

Thanks Ian

That has to be a risk. I guess there’s only one way to find out!

I’ve not got any coaches approaching the bench in the near future, so “I may be some time”.

 

[LarryG]

A ridge of paint where lining goes will really mess things up for a ruling pen.

 

[Fitzroy]

I think a key to all this is spending the money to get a really good masking tape that combines a fine edge that seals with suitably low (but not too low) and well controlled level of tack. Looking at products that are used for masking conformally coating printed circuit boards after the components have been added to the board would be rewarding. Otherwise serious modeller's masking tape. Pound shop or general decorating masking tape shouldn't be used. And test run it on long lengths of scrap material. Just been working this with initial production circuit boards, ahead of getting a full production line set up.

 

[paulc]

Thanks Ian

That has to be a risk. I guess there’s only one way to find out!

I’ve not got any coaches approaching the bench in the near future, so “I may be some time”.

I would also have thought that there would be a chance of the paint tearing as the tape is removed because you now have two layers of paint , one of which is definitely dry . You could try cutting along the edge of the tape with a blade .
A ridge line of paint can be smoothed down with fine 1000g or finer wet & dry paper .
Ref Fitzroys comment about masking tape , i use Tamiya and have never had a problem since i switched from using 'conventional' masking tape . Even the low tack variety was good at leaving ragged edges .

 

[LarryG]

Spray the second colour and remove masking tape immediately. The wet colour will settle leaving no ragged edge. I use (gloss) cellulose and so after an hour I scrape the colour join by running a knife blade sideways to ensure everything is level for my draughtmans ruling pen. Lining is also cellulose. The 'finish' (gloss, eggshell or matt) is applied after lining and insignia, followed by weathering.

 

[Daddyman]

I don't have Ian's book, not do I have suitable gloss paint. Perhaps a coat of gloss varnish over the cream before applying the brown?

Stephen

Or mix the gloss varnish with the cream. Seem to remember Ian didn't like that idea, but I've continued to use it without admitting it to him.

 

[paulc]

Spray the second colour and remove masking tape immediately. The wet colour will settle leaving no ragged edge. I use (gloss) cellulose and so after an hour I scrape the colour join by running a knife blade sideways to ensure everything is level for my draughtmans ruling pen. Lining is also cellulose. The 'finish' (gloss, eggshell or matt) is applied after lining and insignia, followed by weathering.

Hi Larry , would this method work with other types of paint ? I ask as cellulose is no longer available in Australia because of it's harmful properties although i have always thought all paint when sprayed is harmful if the correct breathing gear isn't worn .

 

[LarryG]

Hi Larry , would this method work with other types of paint ? I ask as cellulose is no longer available in Australia because of it harmful properties although i have always thought all paint when sprayed is harmful if the correct breathing gear isn't worn .

The method I use with cellulose would work equally well with enamel paint, the only difference being the slowness of the process while waiting for paint to harden. Cellulose made my job viable seeing as the only way to make a decent living was speed.

 

[Ian Rathbone]

The beauty of lining with enamel paint is that mistakes can simply be wiped away without affecting the underlying paint, even after 24 hours, whether it be cellulose or enamel. Drying time is not important to me as I always have another job to continue or start. The maxim for lining is ‘one colour per side per day’.