Ian Rathbone's Workshop

[Ian Rathbone]

The first stage of cleaning, as part of construction, is to physically scrape away excess solder and any green or white deposits from excess flux using whatever suits the situation - scalpel, fg brush, dental scraper etc. When I consider it ready for painting the next stage is to use a detergent to thoroughly clean it. I use a floor cleaner as it has no lanolin in it. A detergent is a ‘wetting agent’ in that it reduces the surface tension of the water, allowing it to get underneath dirt and wash it off. It is also alkaline so may help neutralise an acid flux. I use an ordinary 1” paint brush to apply a strong solution. The brush is quite stiff but its bristles are long enough to avoid damage to lamp brackets etc. A good rinse follows.

The next stage is dry the model and further check for foreign bodies. I then brush on a neat limescale remover which will remove the tarnish and clean the brass. Now the brass does not need to be shiny, I do this stage so that any further foreign bodies show up better. An alternative for this stage is to use ‘Barkeepers Friend’ which comes as an abrasive powder that cleans the brass but leaves a dull finish (but also needs careful washing off). Rinse again.

Finally a check for hard water deposits, wipe over with cellulose thinners (or white spirit) to remove any finger grease, and that’s it. Gloved hands from now on.

Ian R

PS. There is a good book that I know of.

 

[sjp23480]

Ian,

Thank you so much for explaining your process.

You have a couple of extra stages to my existing process.

I use a suede brush (with brass bristles) to do the initial cleanup followed by a good scrub with a toothbrush and Ajax powder (is this still avialable?). Which I guess this is similar to your limescale remover - but like barkeepers friend, it needs to be thoroughly rinsed off.

I haven't rinsed with cellulose thinners. That will be a new stage in my future process as I have noticed some issues with paint adhering, which may be due to my mucky paws and not handling with gloved hands.

Thanks for your reading recommendation - is this your Wild Swan book? I will look out for a copy.

Thanks again,
Steve

 

[Arun Sharma]

Ian R

PS. There is a good book that I know of.

and a very helpful DVD as well - thanks

 

[Ian Rathbone]

Following on from my last Scot post. I found a few more spots needing attention on various bits so it was a rub down and partial re sprays, then a further 24hr drying time.

The next stage was painting the cab roof and smoke box, in isolation. Why? The principal reason is that the cab roof, being basically rectangular, is easy to mask from the green. Why the smoke box, well having mixed up some black paint for a small cab roof there was enough left over, and the smoke box is easy to mask off too.

After another 24hrs curing time I masked off the cab roof and smoke box, and sprayed the rest of the loco superstructure plus the green parts of the tender, splashers, valances and sand boxes. Painting in this order makes for easier masking. Meanwhile I finished the backhead and gave it a first coat of brushed enamel black.

24 hours on and we have this, all green parts of the tender and footplate unit masked off -



Finally I mixed a large quantity of black paint and sprayed all other parts. Well, except for the cab interior, which is difficult to spray. That will be a gentle brush on job while listening to some smooth music, very therapeutic.



The buffer beams will need a grey undercoat before the red goes on, and the cylinders and motion bracket will need tidying up.

Ian R